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Looking for new full sized axe

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 02:31:41 No.426668 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>426887 >>426888 >>426890 >>434546 >>434948 >>436870

I'm looking for a full sized axe to loop on my LK35 pack for chopping and some splitting (small logs)
I've done some research and I can either go with a less finished model (possibly Husqvarna) axe for $60 or a higher finish swedish variety for around $150
Money isnt an issue as long as its quality, but I appreciate good value and am willing to put in extra work
Does anyone have recommendations for these criteria or personal favorites?
advice is appreciated :)

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 15:19:39 No.426887 Report

Quoted By: >>426928

>>426668
What handle length are you looking for and what head weight?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO WETTERLINGS.jpg, 38KiB, 435x244

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 15:23:38 No.426888 Report

Quoted By: >>426889 >>426927 >>426930

>>426668
http://www.wetterlings.com/axes/

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 15:24:40 No.426889 Report

Quoted By:

>>426888
axes+tits = wetterlings

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 15:30:21 No.426890 Report

Quoted By: >>426927 >>426930

>>426668
>full sized axe
>LK35 pack

Gransfors Bruks SFA fits just about perfectly on the LK35. So ~50cm handle is ideal but it's hardly a full size axe.

Michael

Michael Wed 03 Dec 2014 18:18:47 No.426923 Report

Quoted By:

Canadian Tire has good axe

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 18:29:08 No.426927 Report

Quoted By:

>>426890
Thanks, looks like a good source
>>426888
Definitely a good option, do you happen to know about the forest axes they make?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 18:30:54 No.426928 Report

Quoted By: >>426937

>>426887
26 inch handle, and heavier head is preferred

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 18:34:29 No.426930 Report

Quoted By:

>>426890
I already own a small handled axe, and I've managed to mount a shotgun to the frame in the past
>>426888
Wetterlings is definitely my top candidate atm, do you happen to own one?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 19:02:09 No.426937 Report

Quoted By: >>426953

>>426928
>26 inch handle, and heavier head is preferred
If you can settle with a 28 inch handle, I'd recommend you a boys axe ( and so does Mors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjtsVEcxMq8 )

If Europe, then Hultafors HY 10, in 1kg or 1.2kg http://www.hultafors.com/products/cutting/axes/felling-axes/felling-axe-hy-10/
not as flashy as Gränsfors and Wetterlings, but still handmade and half the price.

If US, then council tools, http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=22BR
Would never drop that much cash on an axe, but you said price doesn't matter, so Velvicut: http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=JP22DV28C

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 20:06:15 No.426953 Report

Quoted By: >>426957

>>426937
Thanks, definitely some nice options, informative video as well

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 20:13:14 No.426957 Report

Quoted By: >>426976

>>426953
>informative video as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKRymGciSg8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aijEY9njOw&list=UUCfbCTnZuKVSiuZt_ZmWtuw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5jb8wg83fk

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 03 Dec 2014 21:09:17 No.426976 Report

Quoted By:

>>426957
Great, thanks man!

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 05 Dec 2014 01:50:41 No.427696 Report

Quoted By: >>427773 >>427798 >>427816 >>434546

Get a Gransfors. Put it in the oven at like 200 deg. Take it out with a towel and rub with beeswax. Be careful. Repeat a couple of times, making sure to get in the area where the head meets the wood. It'll soak in and make the axe water resistant.

Next, get some of these bastards and put a flat bevel and a mirror shine on it. Get a strop for getting it to a razor edge. Get it shaving sharp.

It'll eat wood. Totally different experience than any other axe I've owned. Cuts hard oak like butter.

http://www.dmtsharp.com/sharpeners/pocket-models/dia-sharp/

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 05 Dec 2014 05:23:44 No.427773 Report

Quoted By:

>>427696
Thanks for the help, I ordered one of these sharpeners and I have some beeswax at home
How often does the beeswax need to be reapplied?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO dontthinkso.png, 40KiB, 583x265

Anonymous Fri 05 Dec 2014 06:55:56 No.427798 Report

Quoted By: >>428503 >>428876 >>432297

>>427696
>Put it in the oven at like 200 deg.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3rs-eaN3E

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 05 Dec 2014 09:06:04 No.427816 Report

Quoted By:

>>427696
I get the idea but 200 degrees (i assume you're talking fahrenheit) is probably a little close to a temper-fucking temperature considering the wild fluctuations in the average domestic oven. I'd not risk it anyways.

IMHO it's probably best to use a hairdryer for focussed heat on the handle and do it piece by piece, or just use good old linseed oil.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 67KiB, 275x383

Anonymous Sun 07 Dec 2014 05:44:10 No.428503 Report

Quoted By: >>429491

>>427798
Worked fine on my axe. Beeswax melts at like 140, wood burns at 451, and steel changes temper at like 390-400 at the lowest. This is something you have to watch closely. It works well if you can.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 08 Dec 2014 01:13:13 No.428876 Report

Quoted By:

>>427798
thanks for sharing this, I enjoyed it very much.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO axe GB Scandinavian.jpg, 541KiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Tue 09 Dec 2014 10:12:41 No.429490 Report

Quoted By:

GB Scandinavian Master Race checking in.

As far as conditioning here is why I do:

>Handle: Boiled Linseed Oil. Apply only a few drops per the entire handle at a time. Allow it to dry for 1 WEEK between applications. Repeat this weekly for 2-3 months and it will develop a nice dark rich finish like the one pictured compared to one that is brand new above it. This I believe is longer lasting and less likely to rub off on your hands than beeswax or birch oil. It is the same method used to condition old black walnut gunstocks without artificial stains. I absolutely wouldn't put the axe in the oven, you likely would void your 20 yr warranty doing this.

>Sheath: Leather Honey leather conditioner. As with the handle, apply a coat per week for a few months and let it air dry between applications and it will develop a nice deep color and it will stay supple longer. You have to give things time to seep in.

>Head: Hoppes Gun Oil - coat the head lightly, let it air dry.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 09 Dec 2014 10:31:54 No.429491 Report

Quoted By: >>429788

>>428503

All you are doing is evaporating out the natural oils in the wood and accelerating the aging process. This is both pointless and damaging to the integrity of the wood for the period of time it is without any oils. Maybe what you're trying to do is impregnate the wood with more oil but that's done with a vat of oil and negative pressure to pull out the air inside of the wood for it to be replaced with oil. You're just doing a 1-1 switch. It's both pointless and likely harmful.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 09 Dec 2014 23:24:49 No.429788 Report

Quoted By: >>431856 >>435188

>>429491
>oil
>I'm using beeswax, not oil.

I've used this method with other stuff before, like cutting boards and the like. The point is that the wood soaks up the liquid beeswax and it penetrates deeply around the axe head.

If you don't feel comfortable putting your axe in the oven, don't do it. I'm just letting you know what worked for me. I wasn't making charcoal out of the handle; just getting it up to "hot car in the sun" temps.

Linseed oil is great too. Beeswax furniture polish too. There are many options.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 14 Dec 2014 18:40:06 No.431856 Report

Quoted By: >>431961 >>435188

>>429788

Wax...oil...they are both lipids.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 14 Dec 2014 22:15:15 No.431961 Report

Quoted By:

>>431856
When you work with wood, you learn the difference between oil and wax pretty fast.
For axe handles, linseed oil or tung oil. The bees wax is only applied for handle protection during transport and is meant to be removed before use (and oiling). Shitty manufactures use shellac for handles.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 15 Dec 2014 10:18:01 No.432280 Report

Quoted By: >>432297

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz3rs-eaN3E

Very informative documentary on axes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 15 Dec 2014 11:45:42 No.432297 Report

Quoted By:

>>432280
You're a bit late...>>427798

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 21 Dec 2014 10:33:57 No.434505 Report

Quoted By: >>434506 >>434524 >>434546 >>434828 >>435188

Cut myself of a GB yesterday. God those things are sharp. People say a sharp axe is safer than a dull one. Um...no. You have zero room for error with a razor sharp axe. Just a very light touch is enough to open up a big wound.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 21 Dec 2014 10:35:04 No.434506 Report

Quoted By:

>>434505

on*

>typing with bandaged finger

Necromancer

Necromancer Sun 21 Dec 2014 11:50:42 No.434524 Report

Quoted By:

>>434505

A dull axe can still do lots of damage to a leg or a hand or a by-stander (not that they should ever be close enough) and is far more likely to glance from the piece of wood you're swinging at, putting you in far less control.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 21 Dec 2014 13:44:40 No.434546 Report

Quoted By:

>>427696
>Put it in the oven at like 200 deg. Take it out with a towel and rub with beeswax.

>>434505
>People say a sharp axe is safer than a dull one. Um...no. You have zero room for error with a razor sharp axe.
So much stupidity, so few words. Be proud, anons, and go back to whence you came. Your mission is done here. Our minds are all a little weaker having read that. Heating the axe handle will accelerate drying and loss of the natural wood oils you want to keep in there. Use boiled linseed oil instead. A dull axe or a sharp axe will fuck you up if you miss and get yourself with it, but a sharp axe is far less likely to fail to bite into whatever you're chopping and bounce into some body part you don't want cut.

>>426668
OP, a boy's axe is probably a good way to go. 2.5 lb head and the handle length you want. It's not a full size axe by about a pound, but it's very capable and fits on a pack. Pardon the angle of pic related, it makes the blade look a little more crooked than it is and I've sharpened it and corrected that last bit of edge curvature since this picture was taken. Find a nice axe head at a garage sale and put a handle on it yourself if you have some time, a file or some sandpaper, and a hammer. It's not hard and you'll get the exact combination you want.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 00:48:21 No.434828 Report

Quoted By: >>434920 >>435188

>>434505
Don't be careless.
Wear leather gloves and goggles.

A sharp axe is safer, in the sense you have better control when splitting wood, and the wounds can be stitched up easier. Same with a sharp knife, a good straight cut is easier to fix than a jagged mess.

Be careful next time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 06:45:49 No.434920 Report

Quoted By: >>434931 >>435188

>>434828
>Wear leather gloves
You don't wear gloves when handling an axe.

>A sharp axe is safer, in the sense you have better control when splitting wood
Actually splitting is the only part of axework where sharpness doesn't matter that much, thats why it is preferably done with a splitting maul.
In short, you've got no idea what you're talking about. Thanks for trying.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 07:20:04 No.434931 Report

Quoted By: >>434944

>>434920
>You don't wear gloves when handling an axe.
And why is that? Is there even a justification behind it aside from "I never tried it"?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 08:16:00 No.434944 Report

Quoted By: >>435145

>>434931
Because you lack grip with gloves an cannot control the axe as you should, and that is highly dangerous my friend with the girlish hands.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 08:24:17 No.434948 Report

Quoted By:

>>426668
>using an axe to split wood
you're doing it wrong.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1401668370728.jpg, 47KiB, 329x319

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 18:28:15 No.435145 Report

Quoted By: >>435149

>>434944
>there are no gloves that improve grip
>real men hurt their hands

Okay. So you've never tried gloves?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 18:54:20 No.435149 Report

Quoted By: >>435209 >>435500

>>435145
It is not about improving grip, the grip, theandle slides trough your left hand when you strike with an axe and with the right you need to feel the knob. It is ok to have a glove on your left when you process firewood with a hatchet or a small splitting axe, but you need maximum control and feel when you work with a full sized axe and do so something like limbing.

Piggle

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Piggle Mon 22 Dec 2014 20:48:36 No.435188 Report

Quoted By:

>>429788
>>431856
>pic related
I melted 40% linseed and 60% beeswax for the last handle I made a few months ago, and as far as I know (sold the axe to a guy for a few bucks and some pirated music) it's held alright. Sorry for getting technical, but what I've found is the denser/heavier the hydrocarbon mixture (more beeswax), the harder it is to get into the wood, but the longer it lasts. the opposite is the same for the lighter ones; a softer mix (more linseed oil) is easier to apply, but won't last as long.

>>434505
>>434828
>>434920
1. It's harder to cut yourself with a dull axe than with a sharp one, but it'll mash where it hits instead of making a clean cut, and dull axes slip/bounce easier and take more effort to use. A sharp axe gets shit done faster, more precisely, and with less effort, and you're more likely to slip up and get a boo-boo if you're tired.
2. I don't usually wear gloves if I'm using an axe because I like feeling the handle and it takes less effort for me to grip the handle barehanded than gloved. However, if you want to wear gloves, go right ahead, especially if you still need to build up calluses and your hands are on the verge of blistering.

And yes, it's more dangerous to swing an axe without gloves or goggles, but I understand the risks and this is America.
>muh_freedumb.jpg

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Dec 2014 21:47:30 No.435209 Report

Quoted By:

>>435149

Wow I never knew that.

And to think I've been splitting woods all these years without gloves just fine. WEIRD!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 23 Dec 2014 10:13:01 No.435500 Report

Quoted By:

>>435149
You should try gloves sometime.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Dec 2014 00:42:02 No.436870 Report

Quoted By:

>>426668
If money is not option then get the best.
Get an Autine.

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