>>4079557>interesting, I thought it'd be a pain in the ass lolwell you dont always shoot at 2.8, most of the time thats going to give soft images, but sometimes it doesnt, and 3.2 is usually sharp in higher percentages...depends what you point it at.
DOF is enough to be isolating but not stupid thin, and you CAN shoot in very low light, unlike the f/4 etc kit lenses where its less feasible.
A bit of heft is necessary on a 70-200 for balance anyway.
>You mean in Av mode?yeah. With the pentax ISO ramp setting it's the easiest way to use the camera quickly.
If its dark you tell the camera its dark and a bunch of black is ok. Otherwise you get shit exposuretimes, overexposed and grainy everything.
>meant to be used on a camera.The T2 mount they usually have doesnt really say that though. After you put it on a camera its even more apparent.
Also, chances are it will physically conflict with some element of your cameras front face, like the lens release, aperture preview, *grip*, whatever.
>servo driven thumb-joystickAfter i go that working I was going to play with autofocus.
But the sheer force required ot move it at all was quite large, i forget the number, but i used water in a bucket attached to a string wrapped around the focus ring to calculate how much force as a minimum I'd need. Nema motors are all rated in n/cm or something equally matchable.
However; moving the ring *quickly* was looking like it might be a problem without 3dprinted things breaking explosively.
I think for a lens like the 1000/11: taking apart and removing the helicoid from the equation entirely, like those photosnaipers do... where the front and rear elements are in opposite parts of sliding tubes... would be the ultimate way to focus a big cat like this.
..or attaching big sticks poking straight out from the side of the existing focus ring, so you can grab it like a sailboats wheel. Maybe even with an additional ring at the outer so its like a car steering wheel.
