>>4308524Here's what I came up with. No ballhead, I just drilled some holes in a board and attached it where the hotend used to be with the pre-tapped m3 threads and the camera with a 1/4" bolt. I shifted the Z stop up so that the lens can't crash into the plate (had to make a little extension wire) and homing works fine.
I did some test shots where I took a picture, moved 5mm in x and 5mm in y, then back to the old position and take another shot. It's just a few px off which I figure is good enough. The red dot is the same pixel coordinates to show how close it is getting the scratch at the same position. I calculated this as equivalent 3300 DPI. The light source is a $12 tracing table with two layers of ground glass on top to smooth it out. Honestly hardware-wise this was super easy.
To make this good I figure I need to
- get a better lens (currently have an old chinon 50mm with tubes)
- brighter light source (currently at 1s exposure which I'm sure will cause motion blur)
- power cable for the camera (if the battery goes dead I'll have to remove the camera which will mess up any manual alignment/focus I've done)
- buy some film holder instead of just taping it to the ground glass
- write an "autofocus" script that takes pictures at various Z offsets and picks out the sharpest one
- write a script to take all the pictures, calling pktriggercord and writing the gcode commands to the serial port
- write a script to merge all the pictures (maybe using some of the panotools components?) and puts it in a format I can feed into darktable/rawtherapee
Ideally those last three would be some general purpose utility that you just run and it does the scan. Might not get to it for a while but this is definitely showing promise.
