>>3898369>Can this glorious 7d recover shadows without banding? Pic related. +1 exp and +80 shadows equates to +2.5 exposure, but if you do it that way you lose the sky. For the sky: -60 highlights recovers the same highlight detail as -0.5 exposure. NR was L35 and C50. Image is both clean enough and detailed enough for a 20x30 print.
>You know, the one thing that comes off all the time when you edit your raws. I won't even touch dynamic range.Pushing shadows IS dynamic range. And dynamic range is for the most part a meme pushed by DxO and DPReview. And embraced by gearfags as a way to claim their camera is superior even though they don't shoot those scenes and wouldn't know how to process them if they did. Most cameras made in the past 12 years can handle everything except sun-in-frame landscapes. But even the best cameras will often fail to handle sun-in-frame landscapes, requiring GND filters or HDR. The big difference between, say, a 7D and a brand new APS-C body isn't that you "can't push muh shadows!" It's that you can push shadows a little harder on the newer sensor meaning you can be a bit lazy about proper exposure. Or maybe skip the HDR processing on the occasional sun-in-landscape frame, depending on how much or little the sun is attenuated by atmosphere.
>XC 35 f2 is 200USD brand new. Used XF 35 f2 is same. I can guarantee they have twice as much IQ as youngno.Prove it with a direct comparison. And it's not just the 35mm. I actually like and respect Fuji. But buying into Fuji APS-C is limiting yourself to a smaller set of more expensive lenses. A budget photographer is better off with an older Canon or Nikon DSLR and the many used lenses available from 30+ years of production.
>...or at least packing more useful features for it's size. Like shadow recovery.Fuji APS-C sensors are just slightly better than older APS-C DSLRs on shadow recovery. But worse than modern competitors. If DR is your main criteria, save up for a used D800.
