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/p/, I've been shooting film for quite some time, but only in the last year or so I've started using flash, and I have 2 questions about it that often come and go, so I'll ask before I forget it
>why does my subjects look underexposed when using faster speeds with leaf shutter and electronic flash?
of course if I use a faster speed like 1/400" it would get less ambient light than at 1/30", for example
but the duration of an electronic flashlight's actual flash is around 1/1000" to 1/8000" (reaching 1/10.000" for some high end studio stuff)
but the calculations for the flash cannot be counting on ambient light, they should stand on their own
and it doesn't even make sense having underexposed photos because the flash duration is shorther than the leaf shutter, everything is clearly synchronized
I'm using a Nikon Speedlight SB-22 and a Mamiya RB67 ProS coupled with the 65mm Sekor-C lens
how the fuck does this happen?
it generally works fine, but sometimes they come a bit underexposed
>why the fuck does the RB67 not always sync with a flashcube adapter?
I'm using Konica's flashcube adapter, it works fine with my Pentax K1000 (hotshoe and PC cable), my Canon FT and my Yashica D (neither have a hotshoe, but both work with a PC cable)
Rollei 35 has a hotshoe and no PC port and doesn't work with it either
what intrigues me though is the RB
sometimes the flash triggers, sometimes it does not
and when it doesn't I check on the Pentax and the flash is still good, it still burns, it works just fine
and yes, I'm switching the flash sync to M when using it although it really shouldn't matter, I guess
all cameras work fine with the SB-22 electronic flash
I was going mad with the fucking random odds of the flash working, so I just ditched it and I'm using the electronic flash
but the flashcubes are so much brighter and warmer, I wish I could usem them with the RB
sorry for the wall of text, I just wanted to give as much detail as possible to solve these
