>>2954210It was a Mamiya RB67
>>2954211There's tons of ways to get clean looking images, if the contrast is low and the light is good there's no problem, just don't go too aggressive on the curves, increasing contrast brings out noise. Dual-ISO is fairly simple to use, installing it is a bit more complex but there's tutorials for that on the magiclantern site. But what i do is, if the scene is too contrasty and i get either clipper highlights or completely crushed shadows i enable dual-iso with a 100/800 ISO spread (could do 100/1600 but on mark II 1600 is too noisy and there's too little overlapp in exposure so it results in aliasing and resolution loss). I then usually just meter -2EV since that's about the amount of extra clean shadow recovery i'll get.
Load pictures onto computer, grab the dual-iso files (easily marked with dual_ in the filename) drag and drop them onto the cr2hdr.exe that they provide on the magic lantern forums, it processes the images (takes awhile) and dumps out .dng files that i edit like any other file in cameraRAW or lightroom only i got more highlights and cleaner shadows, they do get some other artifacts though in some special cases, for instance moiré is much more prevalent towards the highlights in textures that are prone to it. Might get some weird aliasing etc, most of the stuff is unnoticable once you shrink down to like 50% resolution anyway.
But one thing i always do with my images to produce crisp outputs for web is, when i downsize, i take the output resolution i want (lets say 1000px wide) i multiply it by 4x. Then i resize the picture to that resolution first with bicubic smooth resampling. Then i gaussian blur the image with a 1.2 radius and low to medium strength (this is to reduce aliasing) Then i resize again down to final resolution (25% reduction) with bilinear resampling, and it really produces the crispest output you could want really. (the blur step isn't necessary unless you notice aliasing in the final size)
