>>4221927>ANGRY!>>4221925>$1000 for a camera + lens>portraits in bad lightyou'll want a prime for the wide aperture, fast zooms are pricey and lens vr often comes with slow apertures or high prices that won't help you much.
if you don't need stabilization to break the 1/focal length shutter speed rule, the nikon d810 + af-s 50mm f1.4 is the best camera i would buy. that fast aperture will get your shutter speed up at any given ISO at the cost of it being harder to get more than one face in focus. if you do want stabilization, or just want a smaller camera, your budget requires crop sensors which are a little noisy. it depends on how still these people are holding. i've had to shoot people at 1/125-1/250. stabilization becomes largely irrelevant over 1/30-1/50 with a 50mm lens unless shooting video or if you have shaky hands. if you want to get a longer lens later, or just take photos of more stationary stuff, IBIS will help more.
>crop cope>fujifilm x-h1 + any xf __mm f2 prime lensit has 5.5 stops of in-body stabilization, a reasonably fast aperture, and some people think the noise in low light looks better (just don't crop/zoom in). i don't like fuji, but it does work just fine if you're not pushing what the camera can do and also integrates with instax printers.
>sony a6600 + samyang 35mm f2.8, or sony 28mm f2this will go slightly over budget, but you can build your way into the FF sony ecosystem and adapt way more lenses (with autofocus!)
>the nicest pentax APS-C DSLR you can afford out of their current or past catalog + da 35mm f2.4 i had a k1. poortax is shit if you want full frame, and live view and autofocus on pentax DSLRs suck compared to their peers, but their APS-C DSLRs are still serviceable, have IBIS, and have a fleshed out lens catalog. i liked the sony-like ergonomics on the k1 and the sooc jpegs had a look no one would complain about or rave about either. avoid the k-70, k-30, k-50, and k-s2. they are prone to mechanical failure.
