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Convert nikon AIS lens into AF lens?

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 23:48:40 No.2684249 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>2684253 >>2684254 >>2684387

Has anyone tried to do this?
Let's say I bought a Nikon 135mm f2.8 and I have a Nikon 50mm 1.8 AFD that has the front element scratched.

How hard would be to put the AF parts from the 50mm into the 135mm lens?

Also change the chip signal so the camera will know this is a 135mm lens?

Is there some kind of tutorial?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 23:53:16 No.2684252 Report

Quoted By:

Unsure if serious or ruse master.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 23:54:27 No.2684253 Report

Quoted By: >>2686268

>>2684249
Go to university and become an engineer

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 23:57:02 No.2684254 Report

Quoted By: >>2684255

>>2684249
holy shit dude, if you are really this stupid kill yourself now, before you accidentally blow up a service station trying to increase the octane of your fuel by setting it on fire as you fill up.

Also, there is nothing easier to manually focus than a 135/2.8, just deal with it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 12 Oct 2015 23:58:26 No.2684255 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684254
No it is not, my camera doesn't have a split mirror like older ones.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 00:12:58 No.2684259 Report

Quoted By:

plz be troll thread

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 02:55:43 No.2684334 Report

Quoted By: >>2684356

Suck this you fags.

Someone converted the old lens to CPU lens.

>http://pindelski.org/Photography/2013/02/06/nikkor-ai-conversions-diy/

Now just need to find how to add AF support.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 04:01:05 No.2684349 Report

Quoted By: >>2684701

r u dum

http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/teleconverter/tc16a/index.htm

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 04:34:26 No.2684356 Report

Quoted By: >>2684360 >>2684643

>>2684334
>Being this unironically stupid
Machining some metal on an aperture ring is not a problem at all. Adding a dandelion chip is not a problem at all. This shit has been going on for year and we all knew about it. Adding an AF motor is almost impossible though, but you don't seem to understand that so keep on wasting your time bub.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 04:45:34 No.2684360 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684356
THIS.

Machinist here. I make camera repair parts, anong other things, for a client who still does that stuff.
It simply ain't happening OP, and that coming from someone with access to laser welders, cnc mills and lathes, and 3d metal printers. You certainly are not making a new helical. If you even knew what that was, or how to run up the needed geometry for it.

Chip it, fine. You glue in a part. AI it, you file away a bit of the ring with a needle file. Easy mode.
You are not AF'ing the damn thing. Period.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 06:31:55 No.2684387 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684249
Just open it up and take a look around :^) I'm sure you'll figure it out!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 22:51:38 No.2684643 Report

Quoted By: >>2684694

>>2684356
Nobody said anything about adding an AF motor.
Just use the body motor like all the older lenses.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 201308301034313570.jpg, 253KiB, 800x800

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 23:33:02 No.2684654 Report

Quoted By: >>2684704

I would start with something like this.

Then find a way to connect the camera's AF motor either directly to the follow focus mechanism.
Or use a sensor to detect when the motor is turning and use that to drive the (powered) follow focus electronically.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 3641877578_5dcf26ee5e_o.jpg, 50KiB, 900x379

Anonymous Tue 13 Oct 2015 23:37:52 No.2684656 Report

Quoted By: >>2684700 >>2685911

On a related note I wonder how hard it would be to drive the distance rails of macro bellows with the AF motor.

That would be handy for automated and very accurate focus stacking.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 02:38:51 No.2684694 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684643
You truly know nothing about how this works do you?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 02:52:26 No.2684700 Report

Quoted By:

So you'll need to install a drivetrain in the lens to connect the screwdriver motor in the mount to the helicoids which need to be rotated to focus.

If you manage to do that then also consider the fact that the focus throw on MF lenses is very long and the helicoids have heavy viscous grease on them to make the focus ring turn smoothly with the right amount of resistance for easy manual focusing. This is unlike an AF lens where the focus throw is very short and the ring moves very easily with minimal resistance. So if you try to make the little screwdriver motor try to focus an MF lens you're going to work the motor very hard and it will take forever to focus or burn out the motor.

>>2684656
That actually sounds like a neat little project. I would think that rather than using the camera's motor or anything like that it would be easier to just have a servo motor turn the knob on the bellows. Then you can have the camera shoot on an interval of every few seconds and have an arduino or something turn the servo motor by a small amount in between each photo.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 02:54:18 No.2684701 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684349
literally this

!!Me2iIexFVez

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO A0003359-y600px.jpg, 107KiB, 900x600

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 02:58:29 No.2684704 Report

Quoted By: >>2684707 >>2684742

>>2684654
ive considered doing something like this to my 500mm/6.3 and 1000mm/10 catadioptrics, as they both have nicely gear-notched focus rings.
But figuring out the mechanical and electronics engineering theory before looking for suitable components is a lot more effort than I have been motivated to invest.
The RC vehicle parts, and follow focus marketplace seems to be the obvious source for components.

!!Me2iIexFVez

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO A0003346-y600px.jpg, 105KiB, 900x600

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 03:02:32 No.2684707 Report

Quoted By: >>2684742

>>2684704
In the case of the 1000mm it would be useful to simply have a button operated left/right focus mechanism, minus the autofocus part. Because anyhting that makes this bitch physically easier to focus and reduces the amount of shake imparted through the viewfinder while turning the ring would be very beneficial to being able to see if the thing was focused in the first place, and I seriously doubt the cameras autofocus logic would ever register a positive focus lock anyway.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 04:31:04 No.2684742 Report

Quoted By: >>2684778

>>2684704
>>2684707
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFQO2cIkN0M
Have fun friend.

!!Me2iIexFVez

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 06:45:02 No.2684778 Report

Quoted By: >>2684779

>>2684742
Not useful at 1000mm though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 06:50:21 No.2684779 Report

Quoted By: >>2684781 >>2684782

>>2684778
Of course it is, just leave the actual FF unit and discard the AF module and use an external monitor to look for and hit focus manually. Not that hard, Hollywood has been doing it for awhile now.

!!Me2iIexFVez

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 07:09:23 No.2684781 Report

Quoted By: >>2684805

>>2684779
>Operating Range 1' to > 40'
Do you even 1000mm?

!!Me2iIexFVez

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 07:15:07 No.2684782 Report

Quoted By: >>2684805

>>2684779
1000mm on 1.5xAPS-C = FOV 1.4Deg horiz x 0.9deg vert
Preston thingy:
18° horiz x 3° vert
Nope.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 14 Oct 2015 08:48:40 No.2684805 Report

Quoted By: >>2684851 >>2684853

>>2684781
>>2684782
It's as if you didn't read my post. Leave the follow focus drive, which is the physical servo motor that drives the lens via a .08 tooth gear that engages a set of .8 cogs on the lens, and eschew the AF module, which is what your last post is referring to. Even without the AF module a follow focus is perfectly functional, you simply manually focus the lens with the controller. You'll need a way to monitor the image, which you can do via a video feed out to a monitor directly from the camera. Do you need further explanation? Because a wireless follow focus will work with ANY lens, provided it has a focus ring and the proper gears on the lens to engage the geared wheel on the follow focus. Do you even remotely pull focus?

!!Me2iIexFVez

!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 10:51:28 No.2684851 Report

Quoted By: >>2685308

>>2684805
oh right
that's a fairly specific suggestion though, so it's strange that you would even mention it when i'd already mentioned generic FF systems.
In any case i'd go with something a lot simpler and cheaper than that, and focus through the viewfinder... electronic viewfinder latency makes manual focusing adjustment tedious at best.
Basically just an FF system controlled by a self-centering standard RC vehicle control stick.

!!Me2iIexFVez

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!!Me2iIexFVez Wed 14 Oct 2015 11:03:08 No.2684853 Report

Quoted By: >>2685308

>>2684805
Probably worth mentioning that i'd tend to design around over the shoulder held, and monopod supported. Even at 1000mm I find tripods a little too restrictive.. hence the lack of consideration for non-viewfinder designs... and for less mobile subjects I can easily use an eye-fi/flucard style wifi/tablet based solution too... which I already have.
That said, if a subject isn't moving at high speed and moving a lot, the whole concept of quick & easy refocussing isn't so imperative in the first place. My design-situation would be more for surf, sport, vehicular, airshow shooting where it's useful to be able to move around easily and involves heavy use of focus.
..not so much for tripod situations where you can take your hands off it for additional stability, but sacrifice speed and magnitude of repositioning.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 15 Oct 2015 03:39:58 No.2685308 Report

Quoted By: >>2685901

>>2684851
>>2684853
>evf latency
That's why you use a feed from the camera itself on a dedicated video monitor, you get virtually no lag. To be frank, what you need is pretty niche, since there's not a huge amount of people shooting with cata's that would be willing to buy this sort of system, especially at the price point it would command.

!!Me2iIexFVez

!!Me2iIexFVez Fri 16 Oct 2015 03:32:16 No.2685901 Report

Quoted By:

>>2685308
The feed from the camera itself is what I'm talking about. Weather it be on the rear preview screen, or via the HDMI output, the latency is only fractions of a second, but when using it to focus it still sucks compared to the viewfinder.
Yes it's niche, unique would be more accurate, that's why I intend to macguyver it myself. I suspect my intended design is also a lot simpler than you might be thinking.
A motor, a drive band, and a sliding switch with a bit of wire and two 3/8th" bolts to strap it to the lens. Maybe a video sholuder rig to hold it up. Otherwise fairly simple.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 03:50:39 No.2685911 Report

Quoted By: >>2685918

>>2684656
You do realize that the bellows with 35mm lenses will only do macro photography and that light diminishes as you focus on closer objects. It's called an inverse square law.

Using motors to focus pull lenses (not bellows) is nothing new.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 04:18:14 No.2685918 Report

Quoted By:

>>2685911

I'm pretty sure he realized all of that and has for a while. Did you have a full day on Wikipedia today?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 20:34:01 No.2686268 Report

Quoted By:

>>2684253
this

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 21:04:49 No.2686291 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Oct 2015 23:29:50 No.2686371 Report

Quoted By:

It'd be easier to to turn make autofocus for a medium format SLR, sensor on the ground glass, follow focus gear on the focus mechanism, rod connected to motor to turn and drive said gear.

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