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Lens advice

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 09:58:54 No.2926273 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>2926283 >>2926302 >>2927864

I've got an olympus omd-em10 mk2 and am relatively new to photography, and looking to buy a new lens.

At this point I have the kit lens and the olympus 25mm 1.8.

I'm tossing up between getting a wider prime like the 17mm f1.8 from olympus or forking out a bit more for the 12-40mm 2.8 fixed aperture

Looking to use one of these lenses for a holiday coming up and maybe some light video use, what do you think?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 10:05:46 No.2926276 Report

Quoted By:

I recommend a good zoom. Use it as your main daytime lens, then switch to your prime(s) at night. This is really the best way to get the most out of your low light performance.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 10:11:06 No.2926277 Report

Quoted By: >>2926285

Since you've got Micro Four Thirds, start trolling thrift stores so you can pick up some old glass too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 10:18:57 No.2926280 Report

Quoted By: >>2926285 >>2926302

I have an E-M5 mk2. I use an m.zuiko 25mm as my basic prime lens. It's very easy to use, and practical.

However, I've really been getting into vintage lenses. I'm gonna go pick up a Helios 44M-4 today and take it out for shooting tomorrow. I have no idea what results I'll get.

One thing to keep in mind with M4/3 cameras and old lenses is that the focal length is doubled as the sensor is half the size. This makes a classic 50mm lens act like a 100mm. It can be halfway solved with focal reducers, but they're not ideal.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 10:32:56 No.2926283 Report

Quoted By: >>2927828

>>2926273
The 12-40 and 12-35 zooms on m43 don't do it for me. They're pretty fat and expensive, but still not fast enough to shoot in a dimly lit church or provide any meaningful subject isolation, and the tele zoom range stops a bit short of the point where it gets interesting for portraits.
Lolympus is making a new 12-100/4 zoom soon, maybe you should wait for that.

My holiday meme43 kit is
>25/1.4
General purpose; the e-shutter allows me to shoot f/1.4 in broad daylight if I want subject isolation.
>12-32mm pancake zoom
It's slow, but I find that a 17mm doesn't help 2/3 of the time when 25mm is too cramped, and 12mm primes are damn expensive. Anyway, at $120 and 70 grams, who would complain.
>7.5mm Samyang fisheye
A gimmick lens, but I get some use out of it and it's not that big.
>70-300mm zoom
Having a 600mm equivalent lens often gets me interesting shots even if I'm standing in the same spot a million other tourists did. The lens is a piece of shit though, I really need to replace it with the 75-300.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 10:38:15 No.2926285 Report

Quoted By:

>>2926277
>>2926280
I have a dozen manual lenses from some crappy Soviet RF glass to SL-series Voigtlanders, and they all suck dick on m43.

2x crop turns everything into an awkward telephoto, and almost no lens can handle the pixel density (a 16 MP m43 sensor requires more resolution from the lens than a 5DSR). And screwing around with peaking gets old really fast, compared to instant touch-focus with native lenses.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 2016051956.jpg, 704KiB, 960x1280

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 11:19:20 No.2926302 Report

Quoted By: >>2926306 >>2927623

>>2926273
>>2926280
I have OM-D E-M10 and I've used it with a bunch of adapted lenses. Soviet M42 lenses are pretty okay, but the doubled focal length limits their usefulness. Pic related was taken with a Helios 44M-4. Focusing is bothersome since it takes a while to find the sweet spot, and you can't trust the lens' own scale because it shifts a bit, which also means you need to figure out where the infinity point is since the lens will focus beyond it. Focus peaking at least on my model is a meme that has only limited utility value, it gets completely inaccurate beyond close ranges and in visually busy scenes. Avoid the tempting 28mm Takumar, its edge performance is utterly abysmal on M4/3, also some 135mm's display pretty bad chromabs on it.

So far the best adapted lenses that I've found are Minolta MD glass, 2.8/28, 2/45 and 5.6/300 were all pretty great. Especially the 28mm soundly beats the Takumar as a poor man's standard glass.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 16 Sep 2016 11:28:44 No.2926306 Report

Quoted By:

>>2926302
>MD 2.8/28 as a poor man's standard glass

Ugh. Even compared to the kit zoom you're trading variable focal length and AF (and probably sharpness too) for just one stop of aperture. And Sigma's 19mm/30mm can be found for like $100.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 06:23:57 No.2927568 Report

Quoted By: >>2927903

I have an oly pen epl7 that I use as a daily snapshot and holiday camera. One of the main reasons why I don't buy m43 lenses is that the lenses cost even though they are smaller, cost a lot of money. It's hard to find a $200 50mm equivalent m43 native lens while a 50mm equivalent of a Nilon crop like 35mm 1.8G can be had for $125 used.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 08:52:37 No.2927623 Report

Quoted By:

>>2926302
I have m5ii plus a canon nfd 50mm, and I'm still trying to find ways to make it work. Nailing focus is difficult and I can only do it halfway consistently by enabling both focus peaking and magnification. When it does work it's beautiful, which gives me motivation, and twiddling with the quality metal focus ring is fun. I should have a Lens Turbo II arriving from China any day now, hoping that will make the optical flaws less evident.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 16:26:57 No.2927828 Report

Quoted By: >>2927866

>>2926283
willing to post any shots from the fisheye? recently got one, haven't used it much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 17:49:20 No.2927864 Report

Quoted By:

>>2926273
Did you know that FULL FRAME will take your photos to the NEXT LEVEL? The next lens you should buy is a Nikon D5

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 17:51:08 No.2927866 Report

Quoted By: >>2927884

>>2927828

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:12:15 No.2927884 Report

Quoted By: >>2927886

>>2927866

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:13:38 No.2927886 Report

Quoted By: >>2927887

>>2927884

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:14:48 No.2927887 Report

Quoted By: >>2927891

>>2927886

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:18:59 No.2927891 Report

Quoted By: >>2927895

>>2927887

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:21:03 No.2927895 Report

Quoted By: >>2927896

>>2927891

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:25:20 No.2927896 Report

Quoted By:

>>2927895

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 18 Sep 2016 18:35:48 No.2927903 Report

Quoted By: >>2930480

>>2927568
B&H prices:
>Nikon 35/1.8: $200
>Panasonic 25/1.7: $250
Sure, it's 25% more expensive, but you get image stabilization.

Also, you cannot go faster than f/1.8 on Canikon crop cameras without paying out the ass for a full-frame lens.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Sep 2016 13:24:18 No.2930480 Report

Quoted By: >>2930537 >>2930577

>>2927903
>Sure, it's 25% more expensive, but you get image stabilization.

What are you saying? The Nikon has image stabilization while the Panasonic doesn't have.

>Also, you cannot go faster than f/1.8 on Canikon crop cameras without paying out the ass for a full-frame lens.

You can get a cheap Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI lens for cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Sep 2016 15:49:16 No.2930537 Report

Quoted By:

>>2930480
And you can get a cheap CC/cinema 25 0.95 for cheap. What's your point?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 21 Sep 2016 16:34:30 No.2930577 Report

Quoted By:

>>2930480
>The Nikon has image stabilization
No, it doesn't. Nikon does not make any image-stabilized primes that aren't long telephoto or macro.
>while the Panasonic doesn't have
E-M10 body does.

>You can get a cheap Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI
You need a D7xxx or better camera to use AI lenses without horrible pain. And even on that, the OVF doesn't show proper DoF and makes focusing difficult.

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