>>2976975This picture is retarded, it misses the core principle. Each of these steps is equivalent to one stop, a stop is a doubling/halving of light being taken in by the sensor, changing your shutter speed from 1/8000 to 1/4000 gives the same difference in exposure as going from a 30 sec to 1 min exposure
Going from iso 100 to iso 200, gives same change in brightness as going from 30 second to 1 minute exposure, or the same as going from iso 3200 to iso 6400
And again with aperture, each "stop" is equal to a halving/doubling of light hitting your sensor Going from f8 to f5.6 will change the brightness the same as going from iso 400 to 800, or shutter speed from 1/250 to 1/125
To remember the aperture stops, just keep doubling 1.4 and 2 (1.4, 2, 2.8,4, 5.6, 8)
Once you know stops there is little else to learn on the technical side.
Aperture effects depth of field, the larger the aperture, the smaller the f number, the smaller the dof.
Shutter speed effects motion blur, shorter shutter speed, less motion blur.
Iso effects noise, greater the iso, lesser the image quality. The reason to increase iso is to get a faster shutter speed.
>>2976996Ignore him, you don't need to know why apertures are what they are, just that they are consistent, a 10mm f2 will need the same shutter speed and iso as a 300mm f2 if you were shooting a blank wall and wanted equal exposures.
>>2977024>night shots. A fast lens (f1.8 or greater) will help the most, a kit lens isn't ideal.
A 50mm f1.8 is cheap, especially an old mf one
A rule of shutter speeds is 1/2*fl shooting handheld, down to 1/fl if you can brace yourself and you have practiced shooting blur free shots ( harder than you probably currently realise).
So, we're shooting wide open (f1.8) to let in the most light, we're at 1/100 on shutter speed as that's as slow as you can go with a 50mm handheld. Now up the iso until the exposure looks like you want, pop your camera into liveview to get an instant preview.
