>>3144086To continue anons reply:
You need Sandisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/s cards to record RAW. 128 GB set me back around 70€. Well ok not so bad that would be about 25min of recording time(DNG). Battery is shit but what do you expect of a 500€ camera that can do things you only find in the pro segment and is that small. You NEED an IR cut filter in order to keep your blacks clean if you are shooting with an ND Filter. The Hoya will set you back around 80€. Then there comes is low light. IT IS NOT BAD. It is better than my GH3 that uses noise reduction in camera because there is alot detail left. Just some grain. Anyway how about you light your scene properly (if possible of course)? Now here comes the bad part: Base iso (or asa) is 800. That means that you get the highest dynamic range at this setting. That means if something is blown out at 800 asa it's also on 200 asa. You should expose to the right (ETTR) to lessen the noise of the sensor and you have to use ND at daylight (hence the IR cut). It also has no Optical Low Pass Filter so you get more detail, until it starts to show moire and aliasing. This pisses me off because you can't remove it in post properly. You can buy one OLPF tho for 500€ or 300€ depends on what model you choose. Some of them also have an IR cut integrated so you can ignore the Hoya Filter (or any other brand). Now the camera has a very poor screen. It's like a very shitty matte TN panel. It is useable tho if you zoom to 1:1. It also has focus peaking like every proper cinema camera. It has a crop factor of 2.88 (s16 sensor) That means that a 50mm becomes a 144mm eqvivalent lens. So either use a bmpcc speedbooster or use s16 glass.
Now i shot a gig on friday with it and used prores 422 to record it. Lasted about 1:50 and all fit onto the card. It was warm but didn't overheat (i guess around 40°C only touched it tho). It had at least 27°C indoors.
Anything about post you want to know? I learned some tricks in my year of using it.
