>>3280203>people say that the aperture on MF can be really one stop brighter than on the FF, so will I have to take f/2.8 reading for f/4 aperture?that makes no sense at all, F2.8 is pretty much 2.8 no matter what format.
2 things I can think of that you might be getting muddled here. (there are some advanced things and other factors as well)
1) DOF is shallower on MF for the same aperture, so f4 will have a similar DOF as f2.8 on 35mm
2) light loss on close focus is more noticeable on MF, though without the use of bellows it shouldn't be more than a 1/4 stop. Not enough to worry about while you are starting out.
Mamiya put a scale on their cameras to show how much to adjust your exposure.
advanced things and other factors
shutter speeds and aperture size might not be accurate. you can test this, it takes about 2-3 rolls of film. you need to go through all speeds and apertures in a controlled lighting setting, go through all shutter speeds with a single f stop, then all f stops with a single shutter speed, then all EVs, take notes of each and measure it against the zone system.
I have never done this so I might be getting some of it slightly wrong or simplifying shit. But I have known people who are into this and yea their negs and prints are spot on technically.
the F stop is the a measurement of the focal length and size of the iris, not the amount of light that gets to the film / sensor.
the T stop is a measurement of the amount of light that gets to the film / sensor.
the 2 can vary a lot from lens to lens even within systems.
photography can be as autistic as you want it to be, and just when you think you have meet maximum autismo, someone will come along and be even more
