/p/ - Photography » Thread #3301328

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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 14:44:05 No.3301328 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>3301492 >>3301935 >>3305210 >>3309164

Film Rarities Edition

Old thread >>3297667
All film related questions and general film discussion is to take place in this thread

Feel free to post photos, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot instax mini

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 14:57:49 No.3301340 Report

Quoted By: >>3301363 >>3301623 >>3302698 >>3303661 >>3306052

>got 15 rolls
>not sure about quality, but frozen since I acquired it
>don't know what to shoot with it

Will a 81B warming filter turn it into daylight color balance?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 15:54:44 No.3301363 Report

Quoted By: >>3301365

>>3301340
Idk much about filters but I had a look at the data sheet and it says for daylight balance to use a 85B filter
https://www.fujifilmusa.com/shared/bin/RTPIIAF3-024E_1.pdf

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:01:50 No.3301365 Report

Quoted By: >>3301371

>>3301363
Yeah. 85 is color conversion filter, while 81 is color balance.

Maybe one day I'll shoot some and experiment.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:10:40 No.3301367 Report

Quoted By: >>3301412 >>3301425

I'm looking around for a rangefinder. Need to have full manual and a meter, and aperture priority would be nice to have. I've been using a QL17 but the meter died on me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:12:28 No.3301371 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301365
I've actually got a roll of Fujichrome 64T in 135 somewhere in my fridge I think or it might be Ektachrome 64T? Idk but I'd like to shoot it some day, would be interesting to see how it turns out

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:55:39 No.3301410 Report

Quoted By: >>3301411

guys guys guys

i pressed the shutter

and then i got an image

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:57:22 No.3301411 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301410
>not just pressing the shutter because you like the sound
Plen

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 16:58:20 No.3301412 Report

Quoted By: >>3301425 >>3301792

>>3301367
bessa r2a

next question ;)

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 17:17:21 No.3301425 Report

Quoted By: >>3301428

>>3301367
>>3301412
Just so happens I've got a R2A to spare. Bought it during rangefinder fever season last year, upgraded to a M7 this year. Works well, no defects aside from a loose rewind lever middle joint, rubber will need gluing fairly soon. N. yurp, high postage.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 17:18:31 No.3301427 Report

Quoted By: >>3301747 >>3304373 >>3305145

favourite shot of the first roll i've developed in over 4 months

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 17:20:25 No.3301428 Report

Quoted By: >>3301431

>>3301425
N. yurp you say.. Norway perhaps?

(not who you're replying to)

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 17:22:52 No.3301431 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301428
Nope, but close enough to make it cheaper than the US. (also: oil money.)

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 18:52:44 No.3301492 Report

Quoted By: >>3301493 >>3301494 >>3301791 >>3301943 >>3303587

>>3301328
Does cheap, pocketable and fully manual 135 film camera exist? Pic quality is secondary, I have few expired rolls of film to burn, but no camera.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 18:55:44 No.3301493 Report

Quoted By: >>3301499 >>3303675

>>3301492
depends on your definition of cheap and pocketable

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 18:57:17 No.3301494 Report

Quoted By: >>3301499

>>3301492
What would you call cheap? You should be able to grab a Rollei B35 for quite cheap if regular Tessar Rollei 35s are to expensive.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 19:10:20 No.3301499 Report

Quoted By: >>3301570 >>3301683 >>3302295 >>3303675

>>3301493
>>3301494
My bad, I wasn't precise enough. Cheap means "below $50", pocketable is "fits in the cargo pocket or bigger fanny pack", manual - "I can set the aperture, exposure and cock the shutter manually"

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 19:18:11 No.3301501 Report

Quoted By: >>3301525 >>3301559 >>3302363

score I found a DP-2 (Nikon F2) finder for $23!

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 20:12:57 No.3301525 Report

Quoted By: >>3301559 >>3301759

>>3301501
lucky you, I have been searching for one but they never go around here for less than 200

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:20:40 No.3301552 Report

Quoted By: >>3301555 >>3301572

Anyone else here have a Canon 50/1.8 ltm lens?
I got one for cheap recently and there's this weird issue where the aperture scale is on the opposite side of the lens.I assume this is not normal?
I'm probably going to take it apart at some point anyways. Maybe there's a two-start thread that's misaligned.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:22:48 No.3301555 Report

Quoted By: >>3301572 >>3301582

>>3301552
Here's the other side with the aperture scale.

Another question: Anyone know what these knobs are for with older ltm lenses? It seems to click into place at infinity, but I find it more distracting than useful.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:30:30 No.3301559 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301501
>>3301525
I just bought me a F2 w/ motor drive, battery pack, 50mm f/2, thyristor auto flash for the weird-arse hotshoe, and the meter head that doesn't rot with age. Two hundo for the kit, I'd call BGN- condition. The flash in particular will be fun with my 25-50mm f/4 zoom.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:36:49 No.3301562 Report

Quoted By: >>3301616 >>3309164

I have an Olympus OM-1 inherited from my grandfather that I used a bit for a B&W photography class in high school

I remember the lightmeter not reading accurately but now that I check against my dslr it seems quite accurate. How could I confirm the lightmeter is working before wasting film?

Where does /p/ buy cheap film? How do you go about developing it if you don't have access to a darkroom?

Pic unrelated from Iceland's South coast last year

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:42:39 No.3301564 Report

Quoted By: >>3301581

tips for cutting 120 for scanning?
never cut before. what should I be aiming for when cutting?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:52:29 No.3301570 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301499
>cheap
>fits in pocket
>manual settings
pick two

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 21:55:26 No.3301572 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301552
>>3301555
Right, the front lens module and the focusing helical were misaligned.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 22:05:34 No.3301581 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301564
I usually just use a pair of scissors and aim to hit the center of the non-image area. Putting a flashlight or something pointing towards u from underneath the film really helps to see what you're doing.

!35mmF/4Qi6

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!35mmF/4Qi6 Thu 31 May 2018 22:05:48 No.3301582 Report

Quoted By: >>3302406

Just scored a DR Summicron. Can't wait for it to arrive. Also some gearfagging cause that hood is so nice. No real photos cause I've been packed with work.

>>3301555
That's the old version of a focus tab.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 22:26:31 No.3301616 Report

Quoted By: >>3301933

>>3301562
>How could I confirm the lightmeter is working before wasting film?
You just did, dipshit.
If it works it works.
Really though, just git gud.
Metering by eye is fine for most negative films, and in fact better a lot of the time, because a meter will often be fooled by the reflectivity of the subject, whereas a trained brain will not.
>when in doubt, overexpose
>when in dark, max aperture and the slowest shutter speed you think you can hold, and hope it turns out

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 31 May 2018 22:33:11 No.3301623 Report

Quoted By: >>3301709 >>3301932 >>3303251

>>3301340
Man, don't shoot that shit during the day. Buy ANY of the daylight slide films for that.

Scored a Canon F-1 with normal eye finder for $66. Then the seller messaged me to say he found a WLF for it while he was packing it up and that he tossed it in for free.

Can't wait to shoot some F-1 w/ WLF + 35mm lens streetmemes.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Thu 31 May 2018 23:28:26 No.3301683 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301499

Not fully manual, but a Nikon FG with a 50 pancake can fit and can be had cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 00:05:13 No.3301709 Report

Quoted By: >>3302001

>>3301623
i hoped u atleast thanked him u worthless whore

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 01:16:44 No.3301747 Report

Quoted By: >>3301860

>>3301427
Portra?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 01:26:06 No.3301759 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301525
check Etsy, it's where I find good deals sometimes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 02:32:59 No.3301791 Report

Quoted By: >>3305145

>>3301492
I once managed to fit an OM-1 with 50mm 1.8 into the pocket of my jeans, but there's a reason why I've only done it once

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 02:33:37 No.3301792 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301412
Looks neat, but I was thinking something cheaper to play around with some more. I don't need interchangeable lens yet.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 04:31:20 No.3301821 Report

Quoted By: >>3301898 >>3305145

Anyone tried one of these new Arista Edu films?

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Fri 01 Jun 2018 07:16:11 No.3301860 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301747
Doesn't look like Portra.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 08:13:18 No.3301898 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301821
Yeah, they're not bad. Try the 100 speed

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 08:41:53 No.3301911 Report

Quoted By: >>3301912

plz helpe >>3301905

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 08:45:01 No.3301912 Report

Quoted By: >>3301914

>>3301911
It's a cheap, zoom, autofocus compact from the 1990s, how good did you expect it to be? This is about what I'd expect from something like this.

If you're deadset on using this camera, keep the zoom to the widest setting possible as that's where it will be sharpest

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 08:48:22 No.3301914 Report

Quoted By: >>3301915

>>3301912
guess ill put it in the trash. or only use it for the double exposure thingy. something is also fucked with flash it wont charge and then it wont click the pic

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1200px-Nikon_(AF)_F-401.jpg, 192KiB, 1200x900

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 08:50:36 No.3301915 Report

Quoted By: >>3301921

>>3301914
i was hoping to use it as a travel camera so i dont have to haul my dads old big one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 09:03:06 No.3301921 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301915
If you want a small travel camera with a good lens, check out The Olympus XA and XA2. Very high quality 35mm lens in a tiny body

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 09:28:35 No.3301932 Report

Quoted By: >>3301948 >>3302001

>>3301623
Waist level finders for street photography is a fucking MEME. Don't even bother with it these don't grant you invisibility on the street or help with your social anxiety mr you reddit poster

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 09:30:17 No.3301933 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301616
>because a meter will often be fooled by the reflectivity of the subject
>not using a polarising filter

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 09:46:55 No.3301935 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301328
Speaking of Fortia has anyone here shot it? All the images I've seen of it online are drop dead gorgeous

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 10:21:10 No.3301943 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301492
Olympus XA. Yes it's Aperture Priority only, but you're given a good 25-800 iso input range and a +1.5 backlighting switch, both of which can be used for compensation.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 10:47:52 No.3301948 Report

Quoted By: >>3302001 >>3302063

>>3301932
Truth. Not only does shooting street with a wlf suck due to slow framing, it’s also gay and an easy way to make a socially anxious street newbie look like a total autist.

t. street bhoto man

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 13:06:51 No.3302001 Report

Quoted By: >>3302011 >>3302052 >>3302102

>>3301709
You bet I did.

>>3301932
>>3301948
I've been using waist level finders since 2006. I'm not excited to use it on a 35m SLR because of muh stealth or muh social anxiety. I'm excited to use it because WLFs mean I dont need to keep crouching all the time to take photos that aren't eye level. WLF has become my preferred viewfinder for everything from street to landscape to long exposures for this reason.

Nice projection though fgts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 13:35:55 No.3302011 Report

Quoted By: >>3302116

>>3302001
>I'm not excited to use it on a 35m SLR because of muh stealth or muh social anxiety.
AH okay no worries then, there's been heaps of socially awkward fucks in the last few /fgt/s asking if waist levels finders or small compact camera like the XA will help them stop being a socially awkward fuck when shooting streets.
Also I remember that pic ;)

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 15:49:33 No.3302052 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302001
>Nice projection though fgts.

kek

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 16:19:14 No.3302063 Report

Quoted By: >>3302083 >>3302102 >>3302116

>>3301948
>Not only does shooting street with a wlf suck due to slow framing

in what way is it slower to frame using a wlf than a normal viewfinder? that makes absolutely no sense

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 17:20:57 No.3302083 Report

Quoted By: >>3302116

>>3302063
wlf have a flipped image so it's harder to frame an image
T. TLR owner

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 17:57:32 No.3302102 Report

Quoted By: >>3302116

>>3302063
It makes a lot of sense. Even if you’re experienced and work fast with a wlf, and are using a split screen or something to help focus faster, it still loses to something like a rangefinder in practice.

>>3302001
Yeah, admittedly it was a bit of a tangent. Not saying there’s anything wrong with wlf’s, I just wanted to add to that other anon’s point. Did you use the super scopes a lot in your Yashicas btw?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 18:15:19 No.3302116 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302011
Yeah, if anything I find wlf draw more attention because it's weird seeing someone look down at a camera.

>>3302063
Agreed.

>>3302083
WLFs are second nature to me. For years my only camera was an SQ-A with WLF. The mirror-image thing doesn't slow me down.

>>3302102
You're neglecting having practice with a wlf. Needing to flip the magnifier up for critical focusing definitely slows things down though. I do plan to just scale focus, so that won't be an issue most of the time.

Ive never owned a Yashica. Bronica SQ-A with waist level is the camera I've had since '06.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 18:50:34 No.3302135 Report

Quoted By:

Just got this Pentax P30T with a 300mm Sears lens, a 300mm Lentar lens, a 3.5/28 Fujica, and 55mm Sears with flash and polarizing 62mm Vivitar for 25$. Is it a good steal and the is a broken preview lever important?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 19:58:26 No.3302166 Report

Quoted By: >>3302188

hey /fgt/

I was recently given 10 Arista C-41 blix liquid development kits that were purchased in late 2015. Does anyone know the shelf life of these kits? Are they even usable?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 20:57:34 No.3302188 Report

Quoted By: >>3302197

>>3302166
You are well past the shelf life. Are these in concentrate or mixed yet? You could try a batch to see if you get anything acceptable but I wouldn't get your hopes up.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 21:19:39 No.3302197 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302188
They're still in their original, unopened bottles. They haven't been exposed to air.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 01 Jun 2018 23:54:30 No.3302270 Report

Quoted By:

How hard is it to guesstimate a 35mm lens on a 50mm-only rangefinder? I have a Fed 3b and a Canon 35mm 1.8 ltm I put on it and my Canon P is out for repair. It’s been out for a month now and I want to just take pictures.

The Fed 3b for those unfamiliar doesn’t have framelines and just approximates the view of a 50mm near infinity. This is a surprisingly good 3b, I got three, gifted one, and took some parts from the second to supplement the third one I kept. This was meant to be a fun camera to use while I waited a week or two for repair, but right now it’s literally my camera.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 01:04:40 No.3302295 Report

Quoted By: >>3303187

>>3301499
I have found 2 German Rollei 35 cameras under $50. Deals are out there, it just depends on how hard you are looking and how long you are willing to wait.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 04:28:01 No.3302363 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301501
same guy here, I just also scored a Nikon Coolscan LS-1000 for fucking dirt cheap. Can I make it work with VueScan or Silverfast on a modern PC via a SCSI adapter? Thanks in advance.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 05:13:26 No.3302406 Report

Quoted By: >>3302580

>>3301582
nice looking camera you got there, how is the voightlander?
theres something magic about a 21, I love my Canadian Elmarit. The Summicron is also beautiful, I have the collapsible version

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 08:55:18 No.3302477 Report

Quoted By: >>3302495 >>3302566 >>3302630

An old guy near me is selling his camera collection including a ton of old film stock.

Any chance these are still good? He wrote they were stored in the freezer. I'd love to try out that 160T..

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 09:38:56 No.3302495 Report

Quoted By: >>3302568

>>3302477
The usual rule is, if a film haul doesn't cost too much, fucking snag it. So, depends on how much it's gonna cost w/ some part of the camera collection. Any that you won't use, someone else will; with enough legwork most old film (even kodachrome) can be put to some kind of use. (or sold to collectors as individual rolls.)

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 09:56:38 No.3302503 Report

Quoted By: >>3302510 >>3302514

Just get my grandpa's Nikon Coolscan III working, but I don't have the film adapter (I've got the MA-20 adapter but need the FH-2 to flatten the film), so the film bends a bit in the scanner and the focus fail at some points, any advice on how can I flatten the film during the scan ?

Here a sample photos I've scanned (I'm going to buy vuescan don't mind the writings).

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 10:15:00 No.3302510 Report

Quoted By: >>3302542

>>3302503
Maybe you can try flattening the film by keeping it between books. But it might take a while if you have loads of film

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 10:18:21 No.3302512 Report

Quoted By: >>3302517

Whats some cheap useable black and white negative film thats available in 120?
pic related seems to be best i can get for 4,50 a roll

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 10:19:14 No.3302514 Report

Quoted By: >>3302528

>>3302503
>FH-2
can you not buy it on ebay?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 10:20:31 No.3302517 Report

Quoted By: >>3302545

>>3302512
buy the 100 speed

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 10:51:34 No.3302528 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302514
I think it's still in my grandpa's house but I won't go there for a while so I just search some tips for now

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 11:13:43 No.3302542 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302510
Thanks I'll try that

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 11:17:33 No.3302545 Report

Quoted By: >>3302575 >>3302689

>>3302517
true that. its a bit cheaper.
and in the 400asa range? is fomapan the cheapest option overall?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 11:23:33 No.3302547 Report

Quoted By: >>3302642 >>3302685

What is the absolutely cheapest film, doesn't matter if it is colour or b&w or even slide film. I am okay with expired film, just want the cheapest possible film. And where could i buy it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 12:00:33 No.3302566 Report

Quoted By: >>3302568

>>3302477
If it was in the freezer its good as new.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 12:04:33 No.3302568 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302495
>>3302566
Welp, just contacted him and it's already gone.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 12:28:42 No.3302575 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302545
If you're looking for 120 then definitely.

That said if you're looking for quality over price, buy Acros while it's still around. Won't be that much more exensive

!35mmF/4Qi6

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!35mmF/4Qi6 Sat 02 Jun 2018 12:42:10 No.3302580 Report

Quoted By: >>3304663

>>3302406
Thanks and same to you, nice M3. The CV 21mm is a nice little lens, but I loaned it to a friend for some time. Got it back last Wednesday and finally had the chance to see it with the hood, which I got while the lens was on loan. Have to use it again, last time was in December.
According to DHL the Summicron should arrive on Monday.. going to test it immidiately.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 15:13:54 No.3302630 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302477
The Kodachrome is useless
The slide film is iffy, if it's been refrigerated it is probably ok depending on how long it's been expired. Same goes with colour print film
The B&W is probably fine even if it hasn't been refrigerated, worst case is it has a little base fog which can be used for effect, just do some test strips.

for old B&W I would suggest HC110, I have developed 2 60 year old rolls, one was fogged beyond producing an image, though strangely it picked up the markings on the backing paper. the other roll was fogged but had some images of a guy in a camera store.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 15:23:40 No.3302639 Report

Quoted By: >>3303638

Gotta get a new camera. Any "insider tips" for a Pentax K-mount SLR below 50€? I used a Ricoh KR-10 Super and I like it. However there seem to be some film advancement problems. I don't need many features, just aperture priority.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 15:24:33 No.3302642 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302547
there are no reliable sources of really cheap film. best you can expect is new 100ft bulk rolls of kentmere 100 or whatever, which comes out to like $2.30/roll if you have all the loading stuff and develop yourself

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 16:39:08 No.3302685 Report

Quoted By: >>3302736

>>3302547

24 exposure, Fujifilm Business use comes out to like $3.60 if you buy in 10 packs. Less if in 100.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 16:50:10 No.3302689 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302545
buy tri-x poorfag, is the only option left

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO T64.jpg, 1MiB, 1000x1000

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 17:26:55 No.3302698 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301340
I shot several rolls of this film last month, and just got the dev'ed slides back. I like it, and would shoot more if the stuff weren't so expensive on auction sites.
I had two versions of this film, 64T (older), and T64 (more recent). Looking at the shots, I prefer the 64T, which seems to have warmer tones. T64's blues are colder, like electric blue.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 18:44:05 No.3302736 Report

Quoted By: >>3303024

>>3302685
I searched for it, where can i find it? Yahoo japan or somewhere else. Located in easter eu, if that helps.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 22:46:59 No.3302879 Report

Quoted By: >>3302931 >>3303016

I have slide film that expired in May. Is that going to make literally any difference?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 02 Jun 2018 23:27:44 No.3302931 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302879
Really depends on how it was kept. It should be totally fine, even if there is anything wrong there is no sane compensation.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 01:58:04 No.3303016 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302879
Like, literally, like, probably not. I mean, FOR SURE, probably not. Literally will probs be totes fine

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 02:13:23 No.3303024 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302736

Amazon Japan sells them, dunno about shipping options though.

Should be able to find on yahoo auctions too. Yodobashi’s global site might even have it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 08:48:49 No.3303127 Report

Quoted By: >>3303138

We've had this 120mm film camera (with bellows) lying around the house for decades. I think it's by a firm called Ensign. I'll get pics of it later but is it worth getting some film and trying it out?

t. digifag

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 09:11:34 No.3303135 Report

Quoted By: >>3303140

How do you guys decide what shutter speed to select in each given situation?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 09:12:58 No.3303138 Report

Quoted By: >>3303656

>>3303127
Check the bellows for holes (this is very common) and repair if necessary. Check the lens for fungus, and check the shutter for accuracy at all speeds and to see if it's sticking. Have a look at the body and see if there's any obvious light leaks.

Once you've got an idea for the condition of the camera, then sure go ahead. Bellows cameras are usually pretty neat, and even if the lens isn't amazing it's still worth having a shoot with as it'll be so drastically different from what you're used to.

btw it's not '120mm' it's just 120. The number refers to the standard of film it uses, there's all sorts 110 (16mm) APS (same size as APS-C) 135 (35mm) 126, 127, 120 etc. It's just a naming convention, 120 film can be used for a whole heap of different formats like 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, 6x9, 6x12, and 6x17

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 01 (1 of 1).jpg, 868KiB, 1000x659

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 09:19:01 No.3303140 Report

Quoted By: >>3303154

>>3303135
Using a light meter, obviously the shutter speed (in partnership with the aperture) dictates how much light you're letting into the camera and onto the film. In low light situations you need a longer speed, and in bright daylight you'd need a much shorter speed.

I'd recommend reading up on the exposure triangle. For film photography, the ISO is set in stone so that's one thing less to worry about - the ISO is the number in the film's name (e.g. Superia 400 is a 400 iso film).

If your camera doesn't have a light meter (a device that measures light and tells you when your settings are correct for the scene) then download a light meter application. Lux for iPhone is good, but they all work the same. In the app, you'll need to set the ISO to the same ISO as your film, pick your aperture and then point the camera at the scene. The app will tell you what shutter speed to use.

Would definitely recommend doing some reading/watching on the basic concepts of photography, as it will help you answer your own questions. Good luck!

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 09:55:55 No.3303154 Report

Quoted By: >>3303158 >>3303904

>>3303140
Thank you for your answer anon, but I've been too concise: I should have explained that I do already know about exposure triangle and the technical details that come with it. My question's focus is on what shutter speed to pick in a shutter priority AE 135 camera, depending on the subject and the kind of picture you want to take: for now I always set the shutter slightly above the focal length of my lens to avoid camera shake (as per manual instructions), but in some situations it turned out insufficient because of the subject's movement, so I was wondering if there's a similar rule of thumb that allows you to estimate the amount of motion blur.

To clarify, let's say I want to take a pic of a dog running and I want to avoid any blur, and I want to take another pic of the same dog in a way that he turns out pleasantly blurred because of his speed, what shutter speed should I set in these situations?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO img428.jpg, 786KiB, 1125x1500

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 09:59:12 No.3303156 Report

Quoted By:

These spring evenings have been so comfy~
GA645W and slightly nuked P400

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO example.jpg, 788KiB, 1500x989

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 10:02:12 No.3303158 Report

Quoted By: >>3303176 >>3303330

>>3303154
In general 1/500th and above will isolate movement unless it's very, very fast. To properly isolate it you'll also need to pan the camera to follow the subjects movement as you take the photo.

If you want a blurred subject but sharp scene, something around 1/60th is probably correct. Leave the camera still. If you want a blurred scene and semi blurred subject you can use said slower shutter speed but pan the camera with the subject in the method previously described.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 11:04:05 No.3303176 Report

Quoted By: >>3303330

>>3303158
I see, thank you very much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 11:35:14 No.3303187 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302295
Also, there are cheaper models.
I have a Rollei B35, their lenses aren't quite as good but they tend to go a lot cheaper and it's still a decent pocket camera.
Also, mine has a no-battery light sensor so it doesn't require any obscure battery.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO received_10215702061602726.jpg, 243KiB, 1920x1080

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 13:22:09 No.3303251 Report

Quoted By: >>3304079

>>3301623
Awwww yeee it showed up in better condition than expected.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Kodak-Xtol-Film-Developer-A.jpg, 138KiB, 600x600

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 14:18:14 No.3303273 Report

Quoted By: >>3303540 >>3303586

So I ordered some Xtol bc you you guys suggested I try out and will be arriving tomorrow. Got a roll of Tmax 400 I need to develop so I'm pretty hyped to try a new developer

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO how-to-choose-the-right-shutter- (...).jpg, 2MiB, 1500x5949

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 16:31:50 No.3303330 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303158
>>3303176 here: while googling I found pic related. Is it accurate or should I disregard it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 18:27:35 No.3303424 Report

Quoted By: >>3303425 >>3303430 >>3303455

>buy leica m6
>so excited
>takes forever to focus

What the fuck man. Is there any tricks or things to do to get better/fast when focussing with a rangefinder?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 18:30:44 No.3303425 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303424
git gud or zone focus

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 18:38:17 No.3303430 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303424
Estimate distance in your head and set it using the focus tab by feel, or finger memory.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Sleeping_1.jpg, 210KiB, 1000x703

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:06:14 No.3303440 Report

Quoted By: >>3303443

Just developed my own HP5 plus, ISO 400. think it came out OK. There's some spots and scratches though from the dev/scanning process

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Train_2.jpg, 437KiB, 703x1000

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:08:41 No.3303443 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303440

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:20:23 No.3303455 Report

Quoted By: >>3303465 >>3303504

>>3303424
People who like rangefinders hardly even use the actual rangefinder patch, they just zone focus because focusing accurately sucks. There's a reason SLRs made them obsolete.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:25:37 No.3303462 Report

Quoted By: >>3303487

Having hard time finding definite answer on the Web, is higher dmax on scanner better, or should the number be closer to zero (e.g. 4.8 dmax on coolscan V vs 3.6 on plustek)

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:27:20 No.3303465 Report

Quoted By: >>3303504

>>3303455
I use the patch when shooting wide open and focus is usually spot on. On the other hand, I don't shoot tele, or wider than f/2.

giannis

giannis Sun 03 Jun 2018 19:54:13 No.3303487 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303462
Higher is better.

It mostly matters for slides, because anything above 3.0-3.4 is absolutely fine for negatives.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 20:01:06 No.3303491 Report

Quoted By: >>3303496 >>3303504

How much film on average should I burn through to make developing myself a good option? 35mm film exclusively.
I'm not much of a photographer though I do like to shoot with my old cameras every now and then, plus I'd like to experiment some more with pinhole cameras.
costs of letting a shop do it are pretty high since it's not so common anymore.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 20:05:45 No.3303495 Report

Quoted By: >>3304455

Story:
I wanted to take few rolls of slide film to Iceland. I gave my first one ever about a month ago to develop. I was told it will happen once they'll have enough slide film for batch developement. Fast forward to now, still no info and it would be good to know need to know how to adjust the future exposures.

Questions:
Is there a significant difference between the dynamic range of different slide films or speeds? I planned to buy 3 rolls of Provia 100, mainly for landscape and maybe few group shots.
This is more specific: on D750, I have highlight-weighted metering mode, could I use it for metering for slides to save highlights?

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Sun 03 Jun 2018 20:06:55 No.3303496 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303491
If you shoot bw and develop in Rodinal, or HC-110 it doesn't really matter. These developers last almost forever. If you shoot color, you should shoot about 15 rolls in 6 months before the chemicals go bad.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 20:14:55 No.3303504 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303455
RF can also be used for confirming zone focus: if it's worse than what you'd say your depth-of-field permits, adjust by instinct.

>>3303465
RF focusing gets marginal up close somewhere wider than f/2, or longer than 75mm. The irony, then, of going for bokeh up close on a Leica.

>>3303491
Coupla rolls per month and you'll have paid for the gear and scanner in dev and scan costs, plus had exactly the service and quality you deserve. Also, no films lost in the mail.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO img932.jpg, 1MiB, 1064x1660

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:16:20 No.3303540 Report

Quoted By: >>3303564 >>3303586 >>3303866

>>3303273
Enjoy wasting four litres of developer on one roll of film, xtol is something I always had to save up film to use otherwise it would just spoil waiting for me to shoot more rolls. Great stuff though, I think that's most peoples only complaint is the amounts they sell it in

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:32:19 No.3303564 Report

Quoted By: >>3303568

>>3303540
Would you recommend it over D-76? Never tested Xtol, but heard it give a little finer grain that D-76.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:37:23 No.3303568 Report

Quoted By: >>3303572

>>3303564
I only ever developed using xtol or rodinal special (studional) but xtol did give very fine grain if I wasn't pushing the film hard.

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:41:17 No.3303572 Report

Quoted By: >>3303576

>>3303568
Thanks. Guess compared to Rodinal and its derivatives everything gives finer grain.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO img_358.jpg, 926KiB, 1100x1100

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:45:16 No.3303576 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303572
rodinal special has nothing to do with normal rodinal, it's a high speed low grain developer that you wouldn't use for stand developing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:51:52 No.3303586 Report

Quoted By: >>3303618

>>3303273
>>3303540
Since a lot of us are apparently on the xtol/excel train, I'd suggest just not giving a fuck and shooting T-grain films and fine-grain shit like Acros all summer. The development costs are gonna be like 30-40 eurocents per roll at 1+2 already, might as well spend it on the expensive stuff -- and it's the season for low ISOs anyway.

And I was going to try and make a difference for lo-fi/hi-fi glass, but fuck it! I've had glorious texture and TMY midtones from Soviet tessars, wasn't a waste of film at all.

On that note, anyone tried that 1+4 recipe for Acros in xtol? Sounds suspect to me, but it just so happens I've got 19 rolls of Acros in the fridge.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:55:17 No.3303587 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301492
Depends on pocketable, yes. I have big pockets and a canon P with a 35mm 1.8 works fine most of the time. But an Olympus RC might be manual override too and would probably fit your definition if so.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO pronajem-polaroid-fujifilm-insta (...).jpg, 26KiB, 500x500

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 21:57:42 No.3303589 Report

Quoted By: >>3303596 >>3303599

Anyone here shoot instax? Considering getting the wide. Any thoughts besides the obvious instant photo memes

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 22:09:57 No.3303596 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303589
Most of the flak directed at instant cameras are due to people scanning the printed photographs and uploading them somewhere. They for the most part look like shit and are not meant to be scanned, get one if you actually have something you want to photograph and keep a physical copy of. If you're looking at this camera as a way to shoot a certain aesthetic you can then upload and receive critique on then I would avoid it. They're meant for the exact audience they are targetted to, people having fun with friends, family, pets etc who want some fun pictures they can uncover months or years later

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 22:11:10 No.3303599 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303589
I have it and I like it. I use my SX-70 more though.

But it is nice and gives sharp images. also beware that the camera is just as ugly irl as in pictures.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_5817.jpg, 683KiB, 1300x867

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 22:29:02 No.3303618 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303586
I never shot much ilford, I'm not exactly sure why though, kodak always just worked fine for me and the price difference wasn't enough to justify changing. Ilford film always gave off a weird tint once it was developed in the stuff I liked using too

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 23:09:35 No.3303638 Report

Quoted By:

>>3302639
I'm a fan of my ME super, buttons to adjust shutter speed take some getting used to

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 03 Jun 2018 23:54:32 No.3303656 Report

Quoted By: >>3303695

>>3303138
Yeah, thinking of it, the film (now ruined, even if it wasn't before I opened it after decades of being in there) is nowhere near 12cm in width.

I still haven't dug it out but I'll definitely take a good look at it. How would I test the shutter for accuracy? Take a slow mo video of it and count the frames it stays open for (then doing the maths)?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 00:08:15 No.3303661 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301340
in a video about the cinematography of the heaven "Days of Heaven" they talk about using Tungsten film with a salmon-filter. Apparently it takes up about a stop though. Video will be easy to find on youtube.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:02:10 No.3303675 Report

Quoted By: >>3303683 >>3303922

>>3301493
>>3301499

why do people spend $100+ on tiny cameras when the Minox 35 cameras are super small and work great? they're always less than $100, most are around $40. I have an XA 2 and a Minox 35GL, I use the Minox way more, it lets you know the shutter speed its using while the XA doesn't. Also the "button" for the shutter on the XA isn't great.

Only reason I have the XA is because I bought it in 2009 for $35 before they became hip and expensive.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:11:56 No.3303683 Report

Quoted By: >>3303695

>>3303675

Minox is a pain to get it slice film for.

Sure you can buy it, but it is expensive.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:30:06 No.3303695 Report

Quoted By: >>3303698

>>3303656
Just listen to it. Usually it's the slow speeds that become inaccurate first, and it's fairly easy to tell when 1/4 isn't 1/4. It doesn't need to be super accurate, negative film has enough exposure latitude to make up for a bit of underexposure and a lot of overexposure

>>3303683
He's talking about the Minox 35GT which is a 35mm compact. You're thinking of the Minox subminiature cameras

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 422KiB, 887x564

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:46:02 No.3303698 Report

Quoted By: >>3303700 >>3303702 >>3303867

>>3303695

Whoops my bad.

I still want a subminiature minox, even with how hard the film is to find.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:50:22 No.3303700 Report

Quoted By: >>3303702 >>3303867

>>3303698
If you buy a film slitter and some cartridges you can make your own film from 35mm. Obviously you'll have to dev it yourself but if you're going this far that shouldn't be an issue.

Saw some scans of a guy shooting Adox CMS20 microfilm in a Minox Subminature. The quality was comparable to 35mm, I'll see if I can find it

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 01:56:54 No.3303702 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303698
>>3303700
https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=48332030@N03&q=Adotech

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO d2BeX6uP.jpg, 222KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 06:48:23 No.3303866 Report

Quoted By: >>3304013 >>3305380

>>3303540
Lol I'm not going to waste the whole thing on 1 roll silly j

>I think that's most peoples only complaint is the amounts they sell it in
the place I ordered it from here in aus has it at $17 for 5 litres and D76 is $6.95 for 1L so it's way cheaper per litre

>otherwise it would just spoil waiting for me to shoot more rolls
>not storing it in the fridge

Also fuck Australia Post I saw the postie drive past my house twice and my tracking number says it was approved for arrival today

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 06:49:25 No.3303867 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303700
>>3303698
You're welcome
http://www.minox.com/index.php?id=7566&L=2

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 07:32:52 No.3303876 Report

Quoted By: >>3303881 >>3303898

So, I have an almost full propack of expired Ektachrome 160T in 35mm. Not properly stored or anything, so it might be bad or it might still be good, been quite 50/50 with randomly stored slide I’ve bought.

But what do I shoot with tungsten balanced slide in 35mm? If it was 120 I’d probably use it for trying long exposures, but it’s 35mm which I just always use for snapshots. Would I be stupid to just snap it away and get it cross processed?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 07:40:58 No.3303881 Report

Quoted By: >>3303898

>>3303876
shoot w/ a warming filter (85b is the one you want I think)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 08:30:16 No.3303898 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303876
I'd shoot it during the day and yeah you're going to need a 85B filter like >>3303881 said
you can cross process it if you want some funky colours but
here's the datasheet
https://125px.com/docs/film/kodak/e144-Ektachrome_160T_EPT.pdf

giannis

giannis Mon 04 Jun 2018 08:38:59 No.3303904 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303154
Rougly speaking, 1/125 will freeze slow walking people, while 1/60 will let in some motion blur in the feet.

1/250 freezes fast paced walk and most kinds of casual human motion apart from sports, for which 1/500 is usually enough.
For cars and bikes, the faster the better, and you can "cheat" a bit by panning. But 1/500 is usually enough unless you're shooting perpendicularly to the direction of travel.

>TL;DR: for street I keep it at 1/125 or 1/250

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 09:59:31 No.3303922 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303675
Because spending 60€ on a '81 compact, i.e. an aperture priority only camera with zone focusing, is for form factor enthusiasts only. I'm sure the Minotar lens is the cat's tats, but zone focusing is for sunny days at f/16 and aspiring Ricohfags who couldn't get their hands on one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 13:12:55 No.3303976 Report

Quoted By: >>3303985

Hello /fgt/, I posted this question on the sqt as well but I figure that you guys would be able to help too.
I have a camera that shoots positive pictures, it is called a Petri Fotochrome and it is in 6x9 format. There is a mirror inside that reverses the image so it prints positive on the obsolete proprietary film it used, think positive paper. Shooting negative film is no problem because it is transparent.

I'd like to try shooting instax mini film with it, I know the user is supposed to place the brown/negative side towards the lens so it will take a picture but since the camera gives a positive image, the resulting print after development of the instax is going to be mirrored right? Also, would it be possible to place the white side of the instax film so that a positive image will appear or will it not work? Thanks!

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 13:26:22 No.3303985 Report

Quoted By: >>3304137

>>3303976
I think you've misunderstood something about the camera. The mirror inside corrects the orientation (horizontally) of the photos, it does not interact any way with whether the photo turns out positive or negative - this is determined by the photographic medium and not the camera. The special cartridges this thing used produced positive images, but if (somehow) used in another camera they would also produce positive images; the camera just directs the light onto the medium

So to answer your question, you will have no issue shooting instax in this if you can find a way to make it fit and of course load and unload the film into the camera and subsequent processor/instax camera in total darkness. Instax film is exposed through the dark side, and as far as I know cannot be shot the other way around.

However, the camera is autoexposure and the film it was designed to use is rated at ISO 10. Instax film is ISO 800, so even if you were to expose an image onto it, it would be massively overexposed. Instax film does not tolerate overexposure very well, even 1 stop of overexposure will render totally white.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 14:30:07 No.3304013 Report

Quoted By: >>3304118 >>3305353

>>3303866
The fridge wont make much of a difference lad it's to do with how much air is left in the bottles with the chemicals

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO The_F-1_Lives.jpg, 78KiB, 714x960

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 16:41:05 No.3304079 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303251
Original model F-1's are deliciously solid things.

Pic related. Used to belong to the Air Accident Investigation Unit around the time that Air India 747 got blowed up. Probably still technically does. It then spent 20 years in a garage getting covered in BBQ grease before being pulled out, cleaned up and made work.

It then broke.

It says a lot when you ring up the local camera shop and get to talk to someone who remembers a similar unit having the same problem 40 years ago - because it took weeks for the part to come from Japan since Canon insisted it 'never broke'.

I've a second Camera body set aside for spare parts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 17:56:07 No.3304118 Report

Quoted By: >>3304306

>>3304013
I've heard that storing chemicals at cooler temperature or even frozen helps with the life span, or tho I've also heard constant thawing of the chemicals fucks with the chemistry

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 04 Jun 2018 18:39:41 No.3304137 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303985
I understand now! Thank You for the detailed response!

As a side note, I use an external light meter and ND filters to compensate for overexposure. The light meter on my unit is not coupled with the shutter release. It's a f/4.5 lens that exposes at 1/30 or thereabout.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 01:28:05 No.3304297 Report

Quoted By: >>3304309 >>3304449

nikon f2 for $300? supposedly works and all that

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 01:36:22 No.3304306 Report

Quoted By: >>3305353 >>3305371

>>3304118
Aeration is the dominant factor normally. It will help but not by a lot.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 01:42:06 No.3304309 Report

Quoted By: >>3304357

>>3304297

You can get an F100 for that and have money to spare. Why bother with the F2?

GRS

GRS Tue 05 Jun 2018 02:45:52 No.3304357 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304309
F2 never dies

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 03:01:25 No.3304373 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301427
Looks like the album art for an EDM single.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO s-l1600.jpg, 131KiB, 1362x1041

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 03:42:02 No.3304388 Report

Quoted By: >>3304430 >>3304443 >>3304446

just copped, what am i in for? also and lens recommendations?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1524696525944.jpg, 104KiB, 1000x1430

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:12:51 No.3304398 Report

Quoted By: >>3304401 >>3304406 >>3304412

>when the roll doesn't catch on the spool after you've close the back
>When you unknowingly rewind the entire roll back in an attempt to fix the situation, only to end up with a fully rewound roll out in the field
>it was your only roll

:(

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 400iso29.jpg, 796KiB, 2048x1320

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:14:05 No.3304401 Report

Quoted By: >>3304406 >>3304412

>>3304398
been there,
>thought I shot a roll, rewound, thought I missed it coming off the spool, developed, blank

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:20:27 No.3304406 Report

Quoted By: >>3304415 >>3304425

>>3304398
>>3304401

I always burn up a shot to make sure it catches. Not much of a difference having 38 instead of 39 shots.

Plus most of my bodies have that little notification thing to let me know if film is actually advancing or not.

GRS

GRS Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:29:23 No.3304412 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304398
>>3304401
I always stick the leader into the take-up spool first, bend the part coming out a little (if possible), then stretch out the film into the canister cavity, burn one frame, and close... still often get 37 on an F2/3.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:34:28 No.3304415 Report

Quoted By: >>3304425

>>3304406
>I always burn up a shot to make sure it catches.
What I do is I slowly advance the film so I know it's being advanced properly, close the back and take my first shot.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 400iso52.jpg, 908KiB, 2045x1332

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:48:46 No.3304425 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304406
>>3304415

Thanks for the advice guys, my tactic now is to watch the rewind knob to make sure its turning as well, this happened in my Nikon F3

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO photo_2018-02-14_19-19-59.jpg, 124KiB, 1280x796

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 04:53:21 No.3304430 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304388
If you are poor, then a jupiter 8 isn't bad, most of the time.

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 05:35:42 No.3304443 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304388
CV Skopar series

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Australiana2_web-2.jpg, 1MiB, 980x1500

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:04:08 No.3304446 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304388
The Canon 50 1.8 is good and quite cheap

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Photographers_Formulary_50_1200_ (...).jpg, 22KiB, 500x500

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:09:44 No.3304447 Report

Quoted By: >>3306548

What's the best way to store chemicals? I've seen amber bottles everywhere (I know glass is better than plastic to store chemicals), and also these foldable plastic bottles, wich is the best ?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:16:50 No.3304449 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304297
Oughta have a motor drive and battery pack for that price, and the owner's daughter should give you a gobby. Body and prism only should be around a hundo.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO image.jpg, 71KiB, 443x332

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:26:34 No.3304450 Report

Quoted By: >>3304452 >>3304472

I use the shit out of my a-mount film body.

Should I buy the SAL2470z2 for it? I could use it on my digital body which is a huge plus.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:28:58 No.3304452 Report

Quoted By: >>3304453

>>3304450
Sure, why not. Seems like it'd be useful for both digital and film. Do you need it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 06:37:30 No.3304453 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304452

Need? No, not really.

But it would be a considerable upgrade to the ancient Tamron A09 I am using now. The Tamron is slow and loud when it comes to AF. The SSM would be an improvement, not to mention the better optics.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 07:01:46 No.3304455 Report

Quoted By:

>>3303495
Yeah, Provia has relatively high DR as far as slide film goes (iirc 7-8 Stops to Velvia’s 5).

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 08:02:46 No.3304472 Report

Quoted By: >>3304473

>>3304450

Are there any issues with modern lenses on film bodies?

Aren’t the optics and coatings tuned more for a sensor than film?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 08:17:20 No.3304473 Report

Quoted By: >>3304474

>>3304472
The optics and coatings are hardly different. There might be some design changes to allow for light to hit the sensor at a certain angle, film doesn't care about the things modern lenses try to correct for.

You are more likely to have issues with regards to modern autofocus systems not working on older bodies.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 08:24:10 No.3304474 Report

Quoted By: >>3304477

>>3304473

>autofocus systems

More of an issue for Nikon right? Their compatibility is a mess.

Minolta/Sony have full forwards compatibility for any film camera with SSM support.

Pretty Sure Canon has full support on their later bodies too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 08:27:13 No.3304477 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304474
Yes, it's mostly a Nikon problem.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 08:51:50 No.3304483 Report

Quoted By: >>3304510 >>3304639 >>3304737

>having like 100 rolls of 135 in fridge
>mostly all kinds of delicious B&W
>no time to shoot any of it
>30 sheets of un-proofed film since September last year
>no time to print any of it
Fellas, I've got GAS and the film acquisition equivalent. Tell me there are people who're even worse than I am.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _IMG_000000_000000.jpg, 1MiB, 3492x4656

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 09:52:27 No.3304510 Report

Quoted By: >>3304610

>>3304483
>find my dad's T60 with two zooms
>shoot two rolls with it
>spend 60€ on a nifty fifty
>shoot another roll with it
>spend a hundred bucks on a A-1 (it was a good deal)
>recently start shooting another roll
>spend another 70€ on a 28-85 (another good deal, but the lens has a bit of creep)
>start reading a book about composition because I don't want to waste film
>all of this in the span of five months.
I've spent more time on gearfagging than in shooting, and now I'm spending even more time in reading about photography than shooting.

!35mmF/4Qi6

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 05-06-18#003.jpg, 192KiB, 1000x667

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 12:45:53 No.3304555 Report

Quoted By: >>3304556 >>3304576

Summicron DR arrived. Only had some time for some quick and dirty snapshots of the cat(s) on the roll of Foma Action 400 that was still in the camera. It's so hot outside, I had to develop it at 25°C in HC-110 dil. H (8:30min).

!35mmF/4Qi6

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 05-06-18#002.jpg, 181KiB, 667x1000

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 12:47:21 No.3304556 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304555
also have a plant

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 13:39:03 No.3304576 Report

Quoted By: >>3304663

>>3304555
I don't regret selling my Leica because I really wasn't a big fan of rangefinders, but I do miss the Summicron DR. That's such a nice lens.

Do you like that film? The grain looks a little clumpy to me but I might try it because it's pretty cheap in 120 and it might look fine with bigger film anyway.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 14:52:54 No.3304610 Report

Quoted By: >>3304632

>>3304510

I know the pain of gearfagging anon.

I am considering a $1600 lens for my $100 film body.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_0268.jpg, 367KiB, 1080x1920

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 14:56:49 No.3304612 Report

Quoted By:

Anyone ever shoot on 110 for the irony or genuine curiosity? I know lomography still makes 110

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1519826434975.jpg, 63KiB, 750x499

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 15:31:29 No.3304632 Report

Quoted By: >>3304640 >>3304680 >>3304701 >>3304711

>>3304610
>tfw with all the money we spend on stupid shit for shooting film we could get a decent or even great digital camera

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ricoh-xr-s.jpg, 42KiB, 600x450

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 15:37:39 No.3304638 Report

Quoted By: >>3304680

Currently eyeing this Ricoh XR-S. Solar panels on a SLR just look really cool. Are there other cameras with this feature? I wonder if I can find a fitting rechargable battery on eBay, otherwise the panels wont be functional. You can also use normal batteries in this camera.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 15:39:10 No.3304639 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304483
In the past, I've stocked up on film only to have no time to shoot it. However, little by little I worked through my stash. In the end, I went 5 years without needing to buy anything. As long as you're storing the film properly, it'll be fine for years and years.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 15:40:50 No.3304640 Report

Quoted By: >>3305334

>>3304632

>not using a film body that shares lenses with your digital one

That $1600 is gonna get a fuckton of use.

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 16:23:45 No.3304663 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304576
Have to test in normal situations, but so far it seems really nice.
The problem with Foma 400 to me is, that it doesn't give consistent results. Sometimes you push it and it looks good (see >>3302580 ) and sometimes you shoot it at box speed and it looks like above. Its advantage is the price, which makes it a good film for casual snapping.
Also got some 120 around, but as I rarely shoot MF, I haven't tested it, yet.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 17:03:44 No.3304680 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304638
Looks really interesting but also really gimmicky I'd advice to be cautious when buying one of these since you don't know if it's gonna work.
>Are there other cameras with this feature?
Wouldn't have a clue this is the first time I've seen this

>>3304632
>the money we spend on stupid shit for shooting film we could get a decent or even great digital camera
Or we could just buy the "stupid" shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 17:03:55 No.3304681 Report

Quoted By: >>3304686

What sites do european /fgt/ use to buy film for cheap? Amazon and ebay are quite expensive, especially when taking into account shipping costs. I was specifically looking for 135 color negative ISO 400.

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 17:13:19 No.3304686 Report

Quoted By: >>3304713 >>3305177

>>3304681
fotoimpex

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 17:35:16 No.3304701 Report

Quoted By: >>3304716

>>3304632
>his film gear doesn’t provide better images than digital
Why are you even here anon?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 18:12:40 No.3304711 Report

Quoted By: >>3304716

>>3304632
If you're shooting film as a cost saver you're going to have a bad time most likely.

Then again, any 1500 dollar investment you make in gear will be pretty stable over time for film. I don't see 1500 dollar spent on some digital system staying at that value over time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 18:15:14 No.3304713 Report

Quoted By: >>3304741

>>3304686
What is up with Fotoimpex not setting 5 roll boxes? It's all singles as far as I can see.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 18:29:00 No.3304716 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304701
>>3304711
>If you're shooting film as a cost saver you're going to have a bad time most likely.
It started like a cost saver: I already had my father's SLR, but then I wanted a better lens than his crappy midrange zoom; after learning about the technical stuff I wanted a more capable body, and when I got the body I wanted a do-it-all lens. I somehow screwed up the economics, but I feel like I got a good deal out of it: after all I doubt I could get all this in the expensive realm of digital photography.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 18:53:05 No.3304737 Report

Quoted By: >>3304738 >>3304740 >>3304748 >>3304752 >>3304888

>>3304483
Don't feel ashamed, almost all of us are "gearfagging" here.
This is what I've conclude after having observed the film scene for the last 3 years, and eventually deciding to sell off all my stuff save for a pentax 67.
People try to convince themselves with these reasons "film revival break the status quo yada yada", but at the end of the day, save for a few instances where film offers practical benefits like using larger format for better details and tonality, we're just just kids getting excited over novel toys. It's the tools that amuse us, not the end results.
What other reasons could justify the lomo crowd that drool over vomit photos?
What other reasons could justify the film hipsters constantly trying to one up each another on snowflake gears and techniques?
Everyone "gearfags". The yuppie gawking at luxury watches. The foodie jumping between ethnic food and organic and obscure veggies. It's a guilty pleasure.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1433023826779.jpg, 84KiB, 478x424

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 18:55:26 No.3304738 Report

Quoted By: >>3306043

>>3304737

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 19:00:36 No.3304740 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304737
i didnt come here to feel

!35mmF/4Qi6

!35mmF/4Qi6 Tue 05 Jun 2018 19:05:48 No.3304741 Report

Quoted By: >>3304791

>>3304713
They offer discount depending on how many rolls you order. For Portra 400 you get discount for 5+ rolls, for HP5+ it's 10+ rolls.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 19:16:27 No.3304748 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304737
i dunno anon. ive been using the same film slr and lens since 2002. i shoot about 50 rolls of film a year and dev it all myself.

have no desire to buy more gear or more film than i know ill shoot

fuck i sound boring

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 19:18:59 No.3304752 Report

Quoted By: >>3304753 >>3304880 >>3304909

>>3304737
I'm not going to take issue with your wider point, because clearly as someone with 7 or 8 cameras I have engaged in gear acquisition for no real reason myself.

>we're just just kids getting excited over novel toys. It's the tools that amuse us, not the end results. What other reasons could justify the lomo crowd that drool over vomit photos?

I just don't really understand why anyone shits on Lomo. They literally rose to prominence in the wake of film's very worst years, encouraging people to buy cheap simple cameras to have fun with wildly unpredictable results and played a not insignificant part in keeping people (albeit hipsters) interested in analogue photography. I don't see any reason their core mission statement or sales of the simplest, plastic toy cameras acts as a negative -- if you follow along with that belief you're not going to be obsessed with buying a superlative film camera because you'll have realized that you can have fun with a plastic piece of shit holga with vignetting and light leaks.

Not super important to get that off my chest, it's just that it's a view I've seen on here a lot over the years.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 19:21:43 No.3304753 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304752
for me i think my issue with lomo is that I see photography as an archival tool, showing information years later that may no longer exist. Lomography treating photos as off color art that doesnt hold any informational value but instead visual value is why it doesnt click with me

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 20:02:17 No.3304791 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304741
That's pretty neat, thanks!

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 22:09:40 No.3304880 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304752
>have fun
Well, there's your first mistake right there.

You know know that photogs are some of the most miserable, snippy, condescending, unhappy bunch of S.O.B.'s around.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 7xiHP500006.jpg, 213KiB, 1080x749

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 22:26:28 No.3304888 Report

Quoted By: >>3304909

>>3304737
>The foodie jumping between ethnic food and organic and obscure veggies. It's a guilty pleasure.
It's a classic distinction between the master and the novice though.
Give a master a fucking potato, butter, salt and pepper and look at what they turn out.
The novice will complain that the potato is no a kipfler, and the butter isn't danish, and the salt isn't Maldon flakes.
Everyone knows that a japanese SLR with a double gauss 50mm and 400 ISO B&W film is about as good as it gets, and that these tools in the hands of a master will be capable of outstanding work.
But playing with rangefinders and ultrawides and expired slide film and flash modifiers and stupid formats are all part of the learning process, and inform our understanding of our abilities and limitations.
And this might surprise you, but /p/ is a forum for novices, not masters.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 05 Jun 2018 23:04:20 No.3304909 Report

Quoted By: >>3305240

>>3304752
>played a not insignificant part in keeping people (albeit hipsters) interested in analogue photography
I get (but disagree with) the idea behind lomography, although I can't really understand how such a hobby managed to keep film afloat: film is an inherently expensive medium, and sure with lomo you can just buy expired film for pennies, but developing still ain't free. How can a niche movement drive an economy of scale, is beyond me.

>>3304888
>It's a classic distinction between the master and the novice though.
I disagree with your generalization: gearfagging is fetishistic in nature and relate to the object itself and its possession and possible use, while the rationalization is something we layer upon it to justify the purchase.
A novice and a master differentiate in the quality of their output, and they might both want the very best tools to even start working, or just be happy with basic ones, and both can come up with a wide array of justifications for their choices and you still wouldn't be able to tell them apart without looking at the result.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 00:25:19 No.3304988 Report

Quoted By: >>3305020

Anyone here got the /p/ guide on how to color correct scanned film in photoshop?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 01:32:53 No.3305020 Report

Quoted By: >>3305033 >>3305041

>>3304988
https://www.iamthejeff.com/post/32/the-best-way-to-color-correct-c-41-negative-film-scans

this one?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO TS560x560_1914342.jpg, 78KiB, 560x497

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 01:40:31 No.3305021 Report

Quoted By: >>3305028 >>3305031

Looking to dive into film soon.

Currently freelancing with Nikon gear right now. Looking at the F75 right now since it can take all my modern AFS lenses. Would this be a good starter since I can get it for about $70 CAD?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 01:51:36 No.3305028 Report

Quoted By: >>3305031 >>3305036

>>3305021
Yeah absolutely. Don't expect the AF to be as good as your modern nikon, but it won't be too far off. Theses are great cameras and generally under rated by people because they're a bit plasticy. The F100 would be my choice if you want to drop a bit more money, but if not the F75 will definitely serve you well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 01:54:06 No.3305031 Report

Quoted By: >>3305036

>>3305021
>>3305028
Also forgive me if this is obvious, but the f75 is a full frame camera, so if you're shooting on Nikon DX gear the lenses will obviously not work on the f75

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:09:55 No.3305033 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305020
Nah, it was an infographic.
It was posted in one of the past few threads, but I couldn't find it in the archive.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:15:14 No.3305036 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305031
>>3305028

Currently shooting a D750 so I won't run into any crop issues with my current lens lineup.

F100 seems a bit more than what I need right now. I mainly want to get into film to help slow everything down and practice better framing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:16:41 No.3305037 Report

Quoted By: >>3305042 >>3305402

i was happy with an epson flatbed as it's acceptable for internet viewing
but now that i've shot more slides i've run into a brick wall: the scanner can barely extract dense shadow details
i remember someone saying the costs of films are not a problem, it's the scanning that causes headaches, now i understand

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:19:05 No.3305041 Report

Quoted By: >>3305045

>>3305020
Why scanning with the orange mask when inverting is the whole point of the scanner's software?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:20:21 No.3305042 Report

Quoted By: >>3305402 >>3305713

>>3305037
Try multi-exposure scans, will be a little bit better. But yeah if you're making money from shooting then use your epson for preview scans and get big dick scans done on a Flextight or drum scanner or something. Even things like Noritsu or Frontier scanners are pretty great

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 02:24:48 No.3305045 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305041
It's mainly a guide for people who DSLR scan and thus don't use scanner software.

Scanning software isn't always great at getting the colours right, so this offers another step of control. I personally only use this method for Ektar 100 since it tends to confuse Epson scan

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 03:51:55 No.3305094 Report

Quoted By: >>3305100 >>3305105

What's the most aesthetic film camera, and why is it the contax t2?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 03:55:52 No.3305100 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305094
okay Kylie Jenner

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 04:11:03 No.3305105 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305094
>caring about the loo of a camera instead of the images it takes
fuck off millennial #DurrrFilmsNotDead

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 05:18:38 No.3305145 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301427
Waaaay too much light,
otherwise hot photo

>>3301821
It's just Foma

>>3301791
The OM-1 with 50mm is very much pocketable

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 05:50:21 No.3305177 Report

Quoted By: >>3305246

>>3304686
Macodirect

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 6aTl6NiW.jpg, 230KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 06:42:31 No.3305210 Report

Quoted By: >>3305217 >>3305311

>>3301328
>has pic related m42 lenses
>has Pentax K mount body
>do some googling about adapters
>see positivity about adapting m42 to k mount
>buys M42 to Pentax K adapter
>it arrives
>the aperture is stuck wide open when using
>no where online did it say it only works with Pentax made lenses with the A/M switch

Wtf internet? You let me down once again... I was so pumped to use that 28mm for street
Jokes aside what do now? I have a Spotmatic SP but it jams heaps hence why I was adapting the glass to my Ricoh. Should I either get a new m42 body or get a 28mm K mount lens? Also wanna use that Fujinon 50mm f/1.4 somehow, it's absolutely gorgeous

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 06:53:13 No.3305217 Report

Quoted By: >>3305233

>>3305210
28mm K is dirt cheap not to mention the overall quality.

Sell the Fujinon and buy a pentax nifty fifty you moron.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _L_vI2s6.jpg, 194KiB, 2048x1536

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 07:57:19 No.3305233 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305217
k will sell the Fujinon and buy a second k mount 50mm... but seriously I may as well sell my m42 stuff so I can stick with one camera system, will be hard to let the Fujinon go. So I'll defiantly get a SMC 28mm and maybe the SMC 40mm pancake, that lens is so tiny.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO F1HP5097.jpg, 167KiB, 1186x800

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 08:36:23 No.3305240 Report

Quoted By: >>3305394 >>3306076

>>3304909
Well that's my point; that a master can do great work with ordinary tools, whereas /p/lebs feel like they need the very best before they can even get out of the door to shoot.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 09:05:56 No.3305246 Report

Quoted By: >>3305247 >>3305254 >>3305339

>>3305177
fotoimpex > macodirect

Maco has greater selection, but a bit more expensive shipping. Fotoimpex is flat €10 up to a certain weight/size limit for EU orders. I only use maco when there are items fotoimpex does not have.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 09:07:06 No.3305247 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305246
Also, forgot to add:

fotoimpex ships by land, so you can safely buy most chemicals from there. Even 2.5L E-6 kits. Macodirect ships by air. Couldn't buy 1L C-41 kit.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 09:27:25 No.3305254 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305246
>flat €10 minimjm
If all I need is film, a flat fee means I either spend a gorillion shekels on a truckload of rolls or shipping wouldn't be amortized decently.
Fuck, I need to find brick and mortar stores hoping they have decent prices.

giannis

giannis Wed 06 Jun 2018 11:56:35 No.3305311 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305210
You can probably get an M42 body for not much more than the adapter.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO polaroid-spectra_011.jpg, 62KiB, 980x600

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 12:14:22 No.3305319 Report

Quoted By: >>3305836

I picked up a sx-70 and burnt a roll, it hurt a little but I worked out how to use it, and worked out I need to clean the rollers.

I need to turn down the light meter when I use it, I guess it need the light sensor cleaned? Has anyone done this?

Also, how are the spectras?
I was thinking of getting one of those too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 13:03:44 No.3305334 Report

Quoted By: >>3305816

>>3304640
lel, I bought a 5€ chinese adapter to stick my MD glass in my Fuji since I cannot stand autofocus or focus by wire.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 13:20:26 No.3305339 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305246
I get charged 9 euro shipping from Maco.
The 300 euro minimum for free shipping is annoying though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 13:51:59 No.3305353 Report

Quoted By: >>3305371 >>3305380

>>3304306
>>3304013
True, but almost all oxidation processes are slowed down by cold and sped up by heat

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 14:43:22 No.3305371 Report

Quoted By: >>3305380 >>3305387

>>3304306
>>3305353
What about spraying with CO2 or propane the bottles to replace the air?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO goon.jpg, 59KiB, 640x426

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:07:45 No.3305380 Report

Quoted By: >>3305387

>>3305371
>>3305353
>>3303866
was reading this thread on flickr and apparently you can use goon bags to store chemicals https://www.flickr.com/groups/67377471@N00/discuss/72157630254817610/

Oh and my Xtol came yesterday and I deved that roll of Tmax 400 and it's fucking gorgeous. Gonna shoot B&W all weekend, can't wait really. Have some Tri-X, Plus-X and more Tmax I'm going to be shooting.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 0003329_tetenal-protectan-spray- (...).jpg, 83KiB, 550x550

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:13:12 No.3305387 Report

Quoted By: >>3305406

>>3305371
>>3305380
There's even special stuff for it (pic), but any non-reactive gas heavier than air would do.

These are your options, ranging fro most to less preferred:
1. make space for air as small as possibe (harmonica bottles or goon bags)
2. drive out any remaining air using Protectan or CO2
3. Refrigerate

Using all three options would give a superior keeping time, but of course it's hard to drive out air from a harmonica bottle whilst pressing it in

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 810_7934-bokeh-70mm.jpg, 99KiB, 1200x801

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:28:35 No.3305394 Report

Quoted By: >>3305401 >>3306189

>>3305240

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:33:46 No.3305401 Report

Quoted By: >>3306189

>>3305394
>Subject is 100% uninteresting and composition is elementary kid tier
>"just shoot it wide open for the bokeh lmao"

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:39:29 No.3305402 Report

Quoted By: >>3305469 >>3305713

>>3305037
>>3305042
In a thread or two back, I bought a Epson V600 to scan my 35mm and 120 film. 120 film looked pretty good, 35mm was fuzzy and lacked fine detail. I returned it and bought a Plustek 8100, (35mm dedicated) which scanned film MUCH better and extracted more range out of the photos.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 15:47:49 No.3305406 Report

Quoted By: >>3305426

>>3305387
The first one is by far the most important there. I use protectan and always try to make sure my bottles are full. Harmonica bottles or refrigeration seems less than optimal. I'm not excited about keeping chemicals in a fridge either, if I had a seperate film fridge I would be more okay with it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 16:09:02 No.3305426 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305406
Yes, I like to keep poisonous chemicals away from food too. I'd love a seperate refrigerator, but I'm currently not active enough to justify that investment.

I disagree with you on harmonica bottles though, I use them all the time and it seems to work perfectly. You just have to screw the cap on it very tightly after you press in the bottle so that the level of the fluid is nearly parallell with the opening of the bottle

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 17:05:51 No.3305469 Report

Quoted By: >>3305471 >>3305478 >>3305487

>>3305402
So what are you gonna use for 120? I'm in the same boat as you besides I'm a recovering from falling for the DSLR scanning meme. About to purchase a Plustek 8100 and have no idea what I'm gonna do for 120.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 17:09:18 No.3305471 Report

Quoted By: >>3305478

>>3305469
Not that anon, but I'm more or less in the same boat, planning to get the Plustek since the bulk of my stuff is 35mm and have the very small amount of 120 I shoot scanned by the lab. The one I go to is not that bad and I only shoot 120 on a Holga so it's not like I need a xboxhueg resolution.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO filmcompare.jpg, 998KiB, 1524x1516

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 17:15:31 No.3305478 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305469
>>3305471
I feel you man, however I only had about 5 rolls of 120 which I scanned with the epson before returning it. I dont shoot much 120 anymore, all I had was a toy Kodak Duaflex anyways which produced so-so images.

Its up to you, pic related Top was V600 bottom was 8100. Nevermind the degredation you simply get more grain info from the 8100 (at 3600dpi)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20180606_141154.jpg, 300KiB, 1200x801

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 17:34:36 No.3305487 Report

Quoted By: >>3306019

>>3305469
>Falling for the DSLR scanning meme

Just because your too incompetent to figure something out, doesn't make it a meme

Got some rolls of some old faves that I haven't shot in years. Cold stored aw yus

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO C_Users_Win7_Pro_x64_AppData_Loc (...).jpg, 67KiB, 1024x629

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:11:06 No.3305581 Report

Quoted By: >>3305617 >>3305620 >>3305621

by the way... I just noticed some stores have just started to sell this film with pre-flashed effects or colour shifts. Has anyone tried it? Cool stuff or just lomogarbage? They also seem to have tungsten balanced film in their stock.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:35:47 No.3305617 Report

Quoted By: >>3305629 >>3305674

>>3305581
>have fun!
>oh yeah its $15 for film and $15 to develop it
>btw its gonna be all wiggly and wild :^)

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:37:54 No.3305620 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305581
Utter garbage

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:40:08 No.3305621 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305581
It's shit, son.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:50:37 No.3305629 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305617
>some people is willing to spend an inconsiderate amount of money on outrageously inconsistent film and cameras to make horrendous pictures
>for fun
A person must be really retarded to eat the "fun" marketing bait.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO transparent-pvc-film-500x500.jpg, 12KiB, 500x236

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:51:47 No.3305632 Report

Quoted By: >>3306005

>get first roll of film back from lab
>it is totally clear except for developer marks
>google says I must have loaded the film in backwards
>take lens off camera and set shutter to 15 seconds
>see numbers on back of film saying what image I'm on
>mfw I loaded the second roll backwards too

I think I fucked up the 3rd one, but at least it is forwards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 20:57:34 No.3305638 Report

Quoted By: >>3305660

Bought my first batch of stuff to try E6. Got a 2.5L kit and 15 rolls of Provia 100f as well as 5 rolls of Velvia 50.

This should be a fun experiment to do this summer.

I'll be comparing drum scans of negatives vs positives once I get my first roll developed. I'm really interesting to see how much difference there is between Ektar Provia and Velvia for similar scenes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 21:09:52 No.3305660 Report

Quoted By: >>3305668

>>3305638
FWIW, you can rock out 30 rolls per L using the Tetenal kit.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 21:22:30 No.3305668 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305660
That's pretty good. I haven't pushed the C41 kits I normally use beyond 12 since the extension on the bleach/fix step just becomes crazy.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 21:30:27 No.3305674 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305617
I just saw a kit on fotoimpex for 15 euros that gives you 3 rolls of 35mm film and enough chemicals to develop them.
Seems like a lot more "fun" and probably higher quality too.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO R00329541.jpg, 160KiB, 1706x1137

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 22:00:30 No.3305713 Report

Quoted By: >>3305728

>>3305402
I only shoot 120 so I was looking at the plustek 120, but opinions of it don't seem as positive as the 8100/8200.
>>3305042
> multi-exposure scans
Tried Silverfast today, seems I could only get noise.
Though I'm thinking only the pro stuff like drums and flextight can extract the shadows in my night shots like in pic related. Maybe DSLR scanning, but that's another can of worms..
Guess I'll go back to using negatives for now. Shame, nothing beats holding and viewing these physical copies, instead of frames of orange mask.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 22:12:33 No.3305728 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305713
>plustek 120
Just checked for pure curiosity and that thing is two fucking thousand euros jesus fucking christ, yeah I'd rather have the very few I shoot scanned by the lab.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 06 Jun 2018 23:53:38 No.3305816 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305334

I use the tech art pro adapter with my lenses. Pre-focus manually, but the tap makes it hit that little bit I always miss.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 00:26:19 No.3305836 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305319
I've heard of people getting them cleaned by a professional or with cleaning alcohol but I'd check the leddit for polaroids first.
I like my spectra, they're solid cameras. I'd recommend the B&W film over the color film. It looks way nicer and the color film gets kinda muddled.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 06:15:14 No.3306005 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305632
I don't even understand how you could have loaded 120 backwards

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 07:07:32 No.3306019 Report

Quoted By: >>3306029 >>3306129

>>3305487
No I understand it completely it bought all this shit and put heaps of time and effort into learning how to do it and it's been my way of digitising my photos for the past year or so. In the end I just figured it was way to much of a hassle. have this paragraph from a different thread I posted in.

Having to set everything up every time you wanna scan is annoying as fuck. Oh you didn't have everything perfectly aligned? too bad. Negatives aren't perfectly flat? Have fun with that distortion. You wanna scan colour negs? Have fucking fun editing that shit so the white balance is correct. Oh and make sure there's no reflection from other light sauces, may as well DSLR scan in the dark. Also forgot that absolute no matter what lens you use you WILL have distortion from the lens. Did I mention having to set up a scan rig with a tripod EVERY SINGLE TIME just to scan? Seriously DSLR scanning to too much hassle for everyday use.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 07:44:22 No.3306029 Report

Quoted By: >>3306036 >>3306037

>>3306019
You couldve just bought a copy stand and eliminate two of those problems. Also >what is stitching to get better resolution and remove distortion
>what is investing into decent quality macro lens and extension tube
If you're not gonna put your time and effort into making your scanning process good, just like a darkroom technician would do when wet printing, your pictures will definitely turn out shit. If you don't want the hassle of dlsr scanning just mail that shit or have your local lab scan for you. Otherwise, just go digital if everything is too toublesome for you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 07:48:34 No.3306031 Report

Quoted By:

Hi /fgt/ I recently purchased an Olympus Chrome Six folding camera. How does one conserve the leather bellows? Do I apply Lemon Pledge to the bellows with a cotton swab and call it a day? What would you guys recommend?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 08:49:09 No.3306036 Report

Quoted By: >>3306037 >>3306038 >>3306150

>>3306029
>spending more money than a good scanner costs to get bulkier equipment than a scanner to make a more awkward and time-consuming setup than a scanner to get worse images than a scanner
I’m not saying DSLR scanning doesn’t have its niches where it excels but for most people it’s completely impractical. So stop being a colossal faggot and pushing it on everyone else.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO colorplus-3.jpg, 1MiB, 1000x1500

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 09:11:07 No.3306037 Report

Quoted By: >>3306150

>>3306029
>what is stitching to get better resolution and remove distortion
A fuck load of effort for minimal reward you really think someone is going to stitch every single image from a 36 exp roll?
>but durrrr if you don't put in a lot of time and effort are you even a real photogrpaher? xd

>If you're not gonna put your time and effort into making your scanning process good
Do you have a learning disability that prevents you from absorbing information? I stated that I did put in a lot time and effort and that I've been using this method for about a year now and getting good results.

>what is investing into decent quality macro lens and extension tube
I had a bellow system with a macro lens

>If you don't want the hassle of dlsr scanning just mail that shit or have your local lab scan for you. Otherwise, just go digital if everything is too toublesome for you.
Yes setting everything up is too much of a hassle for daily use, and I can't keep it setup all the time since I have minimal space to work with. Thats why I'm purchasing a Plustek where I'll get "better" results and it'll minimalize my work flow. Also it'll give me a reason to sell my dslr since I want to minimalize my gear, only owning one SLR, one P&S and one MF camera.

>>3306036
also this I'm not saying the results from dslr scanning are terrible, it's just impractical compared to a Plustek. I bet you many pro togs aren't dslr scanning because they know it's too much effort for the reward.

Have a random photo I dslr scanned

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 09:11:55 No.3306038 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306036
That guy is a prime example why no one likes gearfag autists. "Hurr I spend 3k a year on lens and body for +5% performance improvement" "durr I stitch 12 shots and invert those shit in ps just so I can pixelpeep".
They think they've unraveled a mystery of the universe, in reality they haven't discovered the simple fact that different ppl have different priorities.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 09:21:28 No.3306040 Report

Quoted By: >>3306062

In defence of Camera based scanning, I used an A6000 with a cheap copy stand and macro lens for a while. I mounted the film straight to a lightpad. Resolution was more than fine for 35mm scans and sharpness was quite good.

When I got a drum scanner a while later I could finally appreciate just how decent camera scanning is. Sharpness of a good scan on the a6000 is compareable to a 5000ppi drum scan. Focus is everything.

Now the thing where it falls flat, colour and dynamic range in general. Camera's just have a very hard time in giving you sufficient dynamic range.

Of course all of this goes out of the window once you move to medium format. You need to start stitching to maintain your scan quality and you start to get quite a shitty workflow.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 16(2).jpg, 291KiB, 2162x1441

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 09:33:36 No.3306043 Report

Quoted By:

>>3304738
I feel you man

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 09:54:12 No.3306052 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301340
keep it for long night-time exposures or portraits if you have a tungsten balanced light source

I used to shoot it all the time, head out mid-week somewhere quiet, set camera up and just chill out sitting on a cliff somewhere for a few hours,
i also used to put a 1/4 and 1/2 CTO gel over my strobes and use it for outdoor portrait work (if done right, subject will be 5500k , everything else is a really cool/purple shade)

really awesome film to work with if it's been stored well

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 22710019-1.jpg, 232KiB, 1024x679

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 10:02:43 No.3306059 Report

Quoted By:

800Z was a solid favorite of mine, just too bad i never really got to shoot it apart from when i JUST started with photography (2009/2010)

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 10:13:21 No.3306062 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306040
pretty much exact thoughts on the subject. what about bracketing exposures and using HDR to get the dynamic range back?
although this creates a shitton more work when you start stitching

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 10:33:07 No.3306076 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305240
That was me when I started, I didn't shoot for the stars, but I was always blaming my tools where I failed. Now I blame the models on occasion, especially when the composition and pose is tight, but their face is wrong. but yeah, it made me a better photographer.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Gili_Air_Which.jpg, 1MiB, 1400x2800

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 12:54:54 No.3306129 Report

Quoted By: >>3306150

>>3306019
Dude...what shit did you buy? You got memed into mindlessly buying shit instead of stopping to think about how to do it. That's your fault.

I use a camera, macro lens, my phone, and a shoebox to scan.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 13:50:41 No.3306150 Report

Quoted By: >>3306154

>>3306129
>You got memed into mindlessly buying shit instead of stopping to think about how to do it.
I mean you can't really stop to think about how to do it if you don't have the shit you're going to use. But nope I had all the necessary parts before hand, only thing I purchased was a cheap $15 set of bellows from ebay, I use your exact set up but I use a smaller box.
Should of read all the replies first to grasp an understanding as to why I'm not a fan of dslr scanning my dude
>>3306036
>>3306037

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 14:01:04 No.3306154 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306150
I read, I guess I'm failing to understand how after a year you haven't become proficient at setting it up. I can set-up, scan, and have a roll of 36exp 35mm color corrected on my computer in <20min. Each additional roll takes about 7min.

If a plustek works for you better, right on though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 14:26:10 No.3306158 Report

Quoted By: >>3306161 >>3306659

Since people are talking about scanning again I guess I should give an idea of how long it takes to scan on a drum scanner.

When I mount the film to the drum I first have to clean the drum from any glue residue and any other dirt from the previous batch I had mounted. this takes a minute tops.

Then I have to get to actually mounting the film. I mount film one frame at a time. Every frame I tape to the drum with at least two pieces of tape. Depending on the curvature of the film I might need two more pieces. The film has to be mounted pretty square on the drum, I can't scan with a rotation so poorly mounted film will increase the needed scanning area a lot.

On my particular drum I can fit a piece of 8x10" film at most. For 6x7 I can get 9 pieces of film on there with comfortable breathing room all around.

The mounting takes about 10 minutes normally. This all depends on technique and will improve over time. Once you have it all mounted you can put the drum back in the scanner.

A preview scan takes about 2 minutes. At this point you can select the scanning areas on the drum, this is a very fast process where you just draw some boxes and set their relevant focus and resolution options.

These are all ran in a batch. Scanning speed is very much dependent on resolution. 10 minutes for a 2000-3000 scan and almost half an hour for 5000 dpi is common.

Luckily since this is batched you can just go do something else while it scans. You also near never have to rescan a piece of film.

Mine has a second drum you can mount film on while the other is busy scanning. This can make it a decently speedy workflow.

If you add wet mounting it starts to take a little bit more time but that goes for every scanning system where you wet mount.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 14:27:09 No.3306161 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306158
this reddit spacing is fucking killing me

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 15:17:14 No.3306189 Report

Quoted By:

>>3305401
>being *so* new you don't even recognise Rockwell masterpieces
>>3305394
my nigger

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 15:17:18 No.3306190 Report

Quoted By: >>3306219 >>3306475 >>3306562

>nFD 28-85 arrives
>got it for cheaper than average
>lenses are perfect
>barrel is perfect
>leave a positive feedback and place the lens on my desk
>a few days pass
>finally a decent day to get out and shoot
>mount the lens and start using it
>there is some lens creep
>when is focused in macro, if you zoom, the front element bumps against the internal serrations
>if you shake it, it rattles
I'm tempted to open it up to figure out what's wrong with it. My hypothesis is that there must be some sort of rubber feet or spacer, that allow the sliding element to follow the grooves without colliding with the serrations in front of the outer lens, that must have shrunk or consumed. Should I risk or just open a controversy on ebay?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 3610895334_e4f8df6466.jpg, 96KiB, 500x332

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 16:09:03 No.3306216 Report

Quoted By: >>3306224 >>3307024

just bought pic related. never shot film before but i wanted something a bit better than my iphone to take on my travels.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 16:12:37 No.3306219 Report

Quoted By: >>3306278

>>3306190
In my experience all of the cheap FD zooms do this. I have a 35-70 that feels the same. I hate it but it still works. They just weren't built well enough.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 16:25:05 No.3306224 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306216
You did good. Basically the best P&S out there.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO TLR_Versionen.jpg, 66KiB, 788x363

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 16:54:19 No.3306247 Report

Quoted By: >>3306660

So I have a Yashica Flex and I absolutely hate the waist level viewfinder. I know some TLR's have interchangeable prisms like pic related but Is there such thing as an universal eye level viewfinder that can clip onto any TLR?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO film-stock.jpg, 53KiB, 500x375

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 17:22:45 No.3306269 Report

Quoted By: >>3306555 >>3307171

Has anyone here every bulk rolled 35mm cine film before? There's a guy selling a bulk roll of Kodak Vision for pretty cheap near me would like to get my hands on it. Anything I should know about it besides the remjet layer?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 17:32:19 No.3306278 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306219
Upon closer inspection I found a black gluey residue at the end of the track where the moving element slides, and the blocks that support it are shiny. This must mean that the rubber decomposed/degraded as I thought, however it might be impossible to replace.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO boomgo3.jpg, 617KiB, 622x1000

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 19:38:11 No.3306349 Report

Quoted By: >>3306353 >>3306356

>Depth of field preview lever on Nikon FA is sticky as fuck
Anyone know how to fix?

Also, if I'm going to fuck around with HSL colours and stuff in Lightroom, is there any point in shooting film? Serious question, pic attached is some expired kodak in a minolta hi-matic af II.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO OldFolksHome.jpg, 657KiB, 1000x705

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 19:49:18 No.3306353 Report

Quoted By: >>3306356

>>3306349
Like, I know film cameras are fun and can give good tones, but is the colour quality preserved in scanning and post processing? Also, please critique the shit out of these two photos.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 19:55:15 No.3306356 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306349
>>3306353
Even if the end result is a jpg, I find the film process a little bit more fun and compelling than the digital's classic "spray and pray" then chose the less bad to see if you can make it look like an actual pic and not a lifeless flat-coloured mess in LR.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMM009_7.jpg, 2MiB, 1024x1536

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 21:07:21 No.3306413 Report

Quoted By: >>3306451 >>3306549

Shot an expired, unlabeled, 400iso, 12exp film that i bought in bulk from a guy at a flea market.
r8.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 21:33:12 No.3306439 Report

Quoted By: >>3306441 >>3306479

I just inherited two nikon fe2 bodies with a bunch of pristine lenses and an md12 motor drive. One body is working fine, only needs a new light sealing, but the other one is fucked up. The mirror is stuck on the focusing screen, the rewind lever is also stuck, the shutter button doesnt work and the shutter curtains are halfway down. Is it possible to get it fixed??

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 21:35:19 No.3306441 Report

Quoted By: >>3306448 >>3306672

>>3306439
I'd just keep the second body around for parts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 21:45:05 No.3306448 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306441
That is what I thought, but Im seriously thinking on giving it to my brother, which is getting interested in photography. I spotted a non working body in my area for €40.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 21:46:50 No.3306451 Report

Quoted By: >>3306483 >>3306661

>>3306413
Is that a double exposure?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:19:16 No.3306475 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306190
What the fuck is wrong with you? Who goes out of their way to buy pleb-tier manual focus zooms?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:23:02 No.3306479 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306439
Put fresh batteries in, and try jiggling the mirror and aperture levers.
An FE2 in good cosmetic condition would almost certainly be worth the cost of most minor repairs.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMM007_9.jpg, 2MiB, 1536x1024

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:30:36 No.3306483 Report

Quoted By: >>3306487

>>3306451
Nope it just came out like that any only on like 3 pics on that one roll. I have no idea what could have caused this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:37:00 No.3306487 Report

Quoted By: >>3306498

>>3306483
Talking completely out of my ass but probably the emulsion was so old and "dry" that it started cracking on the surface as the roll got tightened up and straightened by the camera?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMM001_15.jpg, 2MiB, 1536x1024

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:54:08 No.3306498 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306487
sounds like you could be right.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMM004_12.jpg, 2MiB, 1536x1024

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 22:56:39 No.3306501 Report

Quoted By:

Also: Who the hell produces 12exp rolls of film? I Love these but i dont have many left.
Maybe someone got a whole bunch of throwaway cameras and removed the flim from it or something.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:40:54 No.3306544 Report

Quoted By:

I think disposables are normally at least 24exp.
12exp used to make sense if wanted to change film stocks often or get your results back quickly.
I have no idea what current options are for 12 exp, it's pretty nice at this point.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1481963189423.png, 298KiB, 500x499

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:45:17 No.3306548 Report

Quoted By: >>3306753

>>3304447
depends on the chemical, storage requirements, and your budget.

if money is no object then storage in an optically isolated argon atmosphere which acoustic suspension is your best bet. Otherwise, we'll need more information on your requirements.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20180607-54480023-Edit.jpg, 587KiB, 1193x1800

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:45:47 No.3306549 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306413
That's pretty wild. I've been shooting a lot of expired film, too. Here's some Velvia 50 that expired around 2002. I had to fuck with the curves a lot, but I'm pretty happy with the results, all things considered.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 649e8d1db2843146a50f3a38a01deeac (...).jpg, 19KiB, 420x418

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:50:20 No.3306555 Report

Quoted By: >>3306753 >>3306755

>>3306269
yea, no one will processor your >=36 frames of film.

>inbf; I'll process it myself.

good luck with that buddy. be sensible and reduce your variables. buy in date film from a reputable distributor.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20180607-54480003-Edit.jpg, 569KiB, 1193x1800

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:52:54 No.3306558 Report

Quoted By: >>3306560

I really like these colors. I guess I should try some fresh Velvia while Fuji still makes it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20180607-54480013-Edit.jpg, 749KiB, 1193x1800

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:56:04 No.3306559 Report

Quoted By: >>3306569

This is a shitty scan, but I'm kind of amazed at that highlight detail

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1508369960645.jpg, 44KiB, 529x502

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:56:55 No.3306560 Report

Quoted By: >>3306570 >>3306753

>>3306558
almost no one on this board views photos on a calibrated monitor, and I'm guessing you've not used a calibrated monitor when determining your colours.

If it makes you warm and happy on the inside then good for you. But you could always spend more effort on choosing your subject matter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 07 Jun 2018 23:58:02 No.3306562 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306190

There are very, very few film era zooms worth buying.

That is not one of them.

Just throw it away.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1505132117418.jpg, 10KiB, 264x242

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:02:16 No.3306569 Report

Quoted By: >>3306583 >>3306753

>>3306559
>that highlight detail

overblown clouds. Sure thing there buddy. You and your lying eyes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:02:40 No.3306570 Report

Quoted By: >>3306575

>>3306560

I calibrated my monitor. I find it is much warmer than most others. Great for making prints, but if you ever look at things on an uncaibrated screen it always looks considerably colder.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1508363756110.jpg, 48KiB, 540x459

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:06:27 No.3306575 Report

Quoted By: >>3306579 >>3306581 >>3306753

>>3306570
cool story bro. Share your ICC profile so I can see what you're seeing.

>inbf; ambient light

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:10:42 No.3306579 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306575

When I get home I will.

Honestly I think my calibrater is kinda fucked. Sometimes it will just randomly revert to pre-calibrated colors.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1527034526460.gif, 2MiB, 236x307

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:17:11 No.3306581 Report

Quoted By: >>3306753

>>3306575

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20180607-54480025-Edit.jpg, 511KiB, 1193x1800

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 00:18:00 No.3306583 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306569
It's not great, but this is slide film that sat in a basement for 17 years. My expectations were pretty low.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 02:04:21 No.3306659 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306158
any examples of drum scans you can post? I've been asked to have one of my photos printed up big (it's a 6x6 slide so resolution is no issue) and I'm going over my options on what scanning service to use

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 02:05:37 No.3306660 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306247
No, not as far as I'm aware. The only thing you can do is get the focus right and then use the eye-level sports finder, works alright

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 02:07:23 No.3306661 Report

Quoted By: >>3306795

>>3306451
It's static discharge on the film, since static makes a small amount of light

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 02:36:34 No.3306672 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306441
Out of context this is an interesting post

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 05:43:35 No.3306753 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306581
>>3306575
>>3306569
>>3306560
>>3306555
>>3306548
fuck off you absolute retard

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 05:47:13 No.3306755 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306555
everyone in fgt processes it themselves ya'll think we're going to let someone else do it? literal cuck shit

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 05:54:08 No.3306758 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306757
>>3306757
>>3306757
>>3306757
>>3306757
Phresh Bread

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 07:33:55 No.3306795 Report

Quoted By: >>3306928

>>3306661
Very interesting. Does this happen in the camera or during processing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 13:11:33 No.3306928 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306795
Can happen at a number of points. I've seen it happen with minilab processing where the film is pulled out of the canister through the felt slot which built up static

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 17:07:35 No.3307024 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306216
It has a dogshit slow lens that makes using any film below ISO 400 useless in anything but favorable lighting conditions. Return it and get the regular GA645

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO may201814.jpg, 215KiB, 1000x653

Anonymous Fri 08 Jun 2018 20:27:39 No.3307171 Report

Quoted By:

>>3306269
I do it

Baking soda takes off the remjet pretty well, then you need to get the softest sponge you can find, and give it a wipe.

I'd only go if you can get it super cheap. I paid 100$ canadian for 1300ft of a mix, 250d and 500t. I get good results shooting at 200iso and 400iso respectively

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 11 Jun 2018 07:56:33 No.3308579 Report

Quoted By: >>3308580

Where do you guys get your film for super cheap? Or what's the best cheap film to fuck around on? The only film they sell in stores around me is that fujicolor bullshit

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 11 Jun 2018 07:57:37 No.3308580 Report

Quoted By:

>>3308579
btw i shoot portraits and portra is a bit too expensive for me per roll

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 12 Jun 2018 07:37:30 No.3309164 Report

Quoted By:

>>3301328
I would like to announce to everyone that I am back in the medium format game again by purchasing a Kiev 60 TTL.

I really wish I bought a mamiya so I could blast instax or something too.

>>3301562
If you're shooting B&W or C41, you can get really darn good once you learn roughly what shutter speeds to use when with which apertures and film speeds. I occasionally use a smartphone app which also works great just to jog my memory. At the very least you could learn "relative" lighting, where you use your lightmeter to meter for one circumstance and then use your noggin to think how many stops darker this circumstance is by comparison. Almost all of my overexposures have been caused by not paying attention to the camera at all in semi-automatic modes or doing "selfies" with the camera delay timer and forgetting to cover the eyepiece.

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