/p/ - Photography » Thread #3471535

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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 11:21:27 No.3471535 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>3471548 >>3471668 >>3472191

darkroom days edition

old thread: >>3468227

All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, instant, polaroid, instax, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Feel free to post photos, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

Useful Links:
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you don't print

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 11:54:03 No.3471548 Report

Quoted By: >>3471564

>>3471535
makes sense getting a color enlarger just for the builtin color filters, even though I'll never make color prints, or should I just get a regular B/W enlarger and that ilford multigrade filter set?
with enlargers randombly showing up rather cheap, feels like the added price of the ilford filter set would actually make a basic B/W enlarger be more expensive than a color one.

also, do using the builtin color filters on color head enlargers as intuitive as the ilford numbered filter set?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 12:50:02 No.3471564 Report

Quoted By: >>3471568 >>3471737

>>3471548
A lot of people prefer color heads for the easiness, and also they're less susceptible to dust & scratches on the negs. Apparently the tradeoff is that prints will not be quite as sharp though, and the grain in your prints won't be as defined. Personally I've mostly just printed on color heads since that's what we have at the darkroom I go to, and couldn't really tell tell any major difference between them and the single condenser enlarger we had there (which has now been replaced by a color enlarger as well). One other benefit for a condenser enlarger in addition to being a little sharper is that split-grade printing using filters should be a bit easier. And one upside to color enlargers is that the lamps are more widely available iirc.

I just got an enlarger myself (a Durst M670 BW) which is a condenser enlarger, and will be printing with that once I get set up. I just ordered the way cheaper Foma filter set for the filter drawer instead of the expensive Ilford one.

Using the colors on a color head to adjust the contrast is quite simple imo. You should just print out the chart for your enlarger with the correct values for different grades and keep it nearby.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 12:58:05 No.3471568 Report

Quoted By: >>3471592

>>3471564
I'm using that cheap foma set in a basic Kkindermann 707b sw enlarger and it works pretty well, at least with the foma "variant" paper, never used real ilford multigrade at home because I'm a cheap fuck

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 15:01:08 No.3471592 Report

Quoted By: >>3471593 >>3471595 >>3471600

>>3471568
I actually like the Foma paper a lot, I've used the pearl and matt papers for work prints for the past year or so, and Ilford MG pearl only for bigger 24cm x 30,5cm prints. So I'll probably mostly use the Foma filters together with Foma paper as well, since I'm not sure I'll print very big at home due to lack of space. The only downside with the Foma filters is that you don't get quite as many grades if I understood the manual on their site correctly.

Only minus I've found with Foma paper is that it can curl a lot while drying, but the prints flatten quite fast after they're completely dry.

BTW, people with home darkrooms in tight spaces, what have you done to make everything fit? I think I should be able to fit everything into my bathroom but it's gonna be tight AF, and light proofing any other room in my studio apartment would be hard.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 15:04:26 No.3471593 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471592
Any other = the only other, obviously. I can't see it working out unless I'd rig something over my windows, and I imagine light proofing that would not be a lot of fun.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 15:07:08 No.3471595 Report

Quoted By: >>3471599

>>3471592
>what have you done to make everything fit?
my bathroom is super tiny, so I have my enlarger on a small rolling table and all the shit I need except for chems and paper on the shelves below it.
I just move that whole thing to the bathroom when I need it and keep it in the hallway otherwise

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 15:21:40 No.3471599 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471595
also I use a slab of wood on top of my laundry dryer rack as a mobile table for the trays and when done I remove the slab and hang the prints to dry

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 15:26:36 No.3471600 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471592
My bathroom joins my laundry room, and their windows are covered in cardboard and bin bags. This makes them sufficiently lightproof not to fog prints at night; the rest of the apartment will also be dark enough to not fog under the door. Enlarger sits on top of table above washing machine, chemical trays on the windowsill (up to 9x7-ish, because of that), wash in the shower.

I could do bigger prints if I got a table for the trays, but can't be arst for two years now.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 17:49:18 No.3471661 Report

Quoted By: >>3471665 >>3471673 >>3471713 >>3471840

Hello frenerinos

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 17:57:07 No.3471662 Report

Quoted By: >>3471676 >>3471702

Thinking of buying an RB67 for shooting landscapes. I'm not concerned about the weight, it's mainly the price that makes me consider it. Anyone with any comments on the camera or what I should look out for? Probably going to pick up a 90mm 3.5. I know they weigh about 2.5kg but that's not a worry.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 18:00:27 No.3471665 Report

Quoted By: >>3471673

>>3471661
I'm the anon from yesterday reporting back, I bought it

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 18:22:08 No.3471668 Report

Quoted By: >>3471703

>>3471535
>it's been three months since I used my darkroom
I should try to print more stuff before my chemicals go expired. The problem is that I have been shooting a lot of color negatives and slides recently but I only have a BW enlarger. Is there any way I can "convert" my color films into BW prints?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 18:39:28 No.3471673 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471661
>>3471665
Congrats. Hot tip there is a close up filter on the lens. It decreases your focusing distance (so you can do some macro) but you should unscrew it to do regular photography.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 18:44:20 No.3471676 Report

Quoted By: >>3471725

>>3471662
I’ve hiked with it and love it. For the price, as long as you are patient and wait for a good deal, it’s incredible. You definitely won’t find a better value 6x7 camera. People meme about how cumbersome it is but the only thing the size/weight prohibits is extended (ie. more than one night) backpacking trips.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 19:30:44 No.3471691 Report

Quoted By: >>3475873

Printing session tonight boyz. I'll keep you posted. Just been cleaning and getting the dust away before I begin. Also, because my bedroom doubles as a partial darkroom i have to wait until sundown. Not long now!

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 19:41:34 No.3471702 Report

Quoted By: >>3471725

>>3471662
I owned the camera for a few months, and the weight was probably the only thing I didn't like about it (as I was doing a lot of walking with it around my neck/shoulders). Otherwise it's really nice to shoot with.

Loved what I got out of it with the 90mm K/L (pic related).

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 19:42:47 No.3471703 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471668
Yeah, i tried it but you do lose alot of contrast

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 20:07:45 No.3471713 Report

Quoted By: >>3471834

>>3471661
fukkin' sweet m8. all that for $75 was a steal, you lucky fucker, I'm jelly. now have some fun.
and yea, get rid of that close up filter on the lens. not needed for everyday photography.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 20:37:39 No.3471725 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471676
>>3471702
Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. It sounds like it's by far the best option for what I'm after. Most of my shooting would be on a tripod but my day job is warehouse work so the weight is probably the lightest thing I would carry or lift on a daily basis. I appreciate the honest feedback since it's hard to tell if I'm getting memed by articles and youtube videos but it looks to be the best choice.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 29 Apr 2019 21:27:22 No.3471737 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471564
>Using the colors on a color head to adjust the contrast is quite simple imo. You should just print out the chart for your enlarger with the correct values for different grades and keep it nearby.
oh damn, I didn't know it was that simple. Gonna look into it. thanks man
the contrast filters were my main concern for getting an enlarger, with that ilford set being so damn expensive around here. gonna look into the foma set too.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 00:14:43 No.3471826 Report

Quoted By:

Latest run all done.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 00:18:13 No.3471828 Report

Quoted By: >>3472562

Last one of the night and I'm happy with it. Bit of slit grade, some dodging of the horse and burning in of the sky. Hopefully it will look pretty cool once it's dry.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:00:35 No.3471834 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471713
Thanks man!! I just took a couple pics and to end the roll ill take a couple more at night with a tripod

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:22:33 No.3471839 Report

Quoted By:

I will try to develop B/W soon, only done C41 so far.
I've got ADOMAL 49 developer and Agfa APX-400 film.
Can I use vinegar-acid as stop-bath? (have some 25% stuff laying around)
How high does the concentration have to be?
What temperature range do I have?
How long does it take?
How long does it need to be in the fixing-bath?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO foma_069.jpg, 839KiB, 1003x1300

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:24:18 No.3471840 Report

Quoted By: >>3471851 >>3471899 >>3471914 >>3472201

>>3471661
Congrats Anon, now get into BW Photography and develop it at home. all you need is a Developing Tank, a Changing Bag or FULL dark room, by full i mean Totally DAAARK but just to spool the film into the wheel, ( takes less than 2 min) after that you may turn lights on.
1x Developer ( Rodinal will work perfect for you)
1x Fixer
that's fucking it. We trust Nikon and Contax Shooters here the most !

As for me.... i remember coming to this board 6 or 7 years ago
(my first pictures exif gives me the date)
i came here 6 years ago asking literally this
>are lenses with bigger diameter better than others ?
>which nikon should i buy ?
some friendly anons confirmed D5100 for the Price
then recommended the 35mm ofc
now i totally switched to Film since 1 year (digi only for jobs)
iam not doing this to brag with gears...but my first film camera was the Nikon AF 35m which i bought for 10€
after reading and reading i decided to get the Contax G2
because german/ nippon tech & glas
it was lots cheaper than now as you can imagine....
always wanted the GA6x4,5 and last year i hit the jackpot and immediately bought it...i still use my rolleiflex 3,5f aswell...love that thing, a magical camera literally !

i actually came here to ask for the "cheapest" nikon slr set up
and felt like telling a little story lol
i feel like every film photographer should own a Nikon for some reason

How do you guys like the F 501 601 801 Series ?
and can i attach the classic 50mm pancake on it or are there even cheap AF 50mm lenses too ?
i know shit about nikon mounts
of course if i had the money i'd go for the F3 with the 50 or 55mm on it....i feel so incomplete without a Nikon....help me /p/ lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:26:48 No.3471841 Report

Quoted By: >>3471843 >>3471844 >>3471846 >>3471850

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxTE64QRBgE

Is color negative actually this easy to develop and failproof? Maybe his experience helped him to get decent results even if he peed in the container

I want to start developing my own rolls but this seems just too easy
Maybe the Agfa Vista helped?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:32:06 No.3471843 Report

Quoted By: >>3471856

>>3471841
it actually is easy anon...
get a proper container that doesn't loses it's temp quickly...
just remember that standard processing is 38,5 degrees for ...damn i forgot...3 min ?
and within the 3 min you wont't lose any temp
next process is like between 35-40 degrees and last step between 20-40

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:36:03 No.3471844 Report

Quoted By: >>3471848 >>3471850

>>3471841
also i want to try developing on my own because i got this kind of thing in various shots on my last roll and i don't know if it's camera related or something else

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:38:58 No.3471846 Report

Quoted By: >>3471856

>>3471841
I haven't fucked up so far, despite deviating from the recommend temperature range by a factor of 10 with 6 month old chemicals.
It may not be idiot-proof because nothing is, but I haven't fucked up despite starting with zero experience.
For me it seems like if you get the temperatures and times somewhat right, it will work out just fime.
For the times there is the timer.
For the temperatures you can use a bucket filled with water to get everything up to temperature.
It may take some time, but it is hard to fuck up big time that way.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 01:40:43 No.3471848 Report

Quoted By: >>3471855

>>3471844
Is it in the same place in several frames?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 02:19:05 No.3471850 Report

Quoted By: >>3471856

>>3471841
>>3471844
Like the other anons have said it's pretty fool proof. If you are super concern about temps or just want an even easier time develop invest in a Sous Vide.
It keeps everything at a constant temperature so you don't have to worry about filling jugs from the tap and making sure everything is at the exact temperature

I got mine for like $60

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO n80_35mmdx.jpg, 128KiB, 1500x1000

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 02:19:38 No.3471851 Report

Quoted By: >>3471859 >>3472562 >>3473322

>>3471840
>How do you guys like the F 501 601 801 Series ?
>and can i attach the classic 50mm pancake on it or are there even cheap AF 50mm lenses too ?
with the F mount dating back to '59, nikon has one of the widest lens compatibility system out there, but depends on the particular camera model. rule of thumb is the higher-end the camera, the more lens compatible it is.

people meme on the guy, but ken has the most comprehensive nikon lens chart there is. scroll down for film cameras.
https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm

I really like the n6006 and n8008 bodies (except for them using those weird battery packs), but with most nikon AF era bodies going for a dime, you should check out the semi-pro bodies, like the F90, F90x (F100 is the best but it's quite expensive) or the mid-range N80.
I own an N80 I got for $30 and it's awesome all around. it's the last gen of film bodies so it's compatible with modern AF-S lenses for digital cameras, even with vibration reduction. can't meter with old lenses tho.
n6006, n8008 and F90/F90x can mount and meter with ancient manual lenses so you might want to look into those for using classic manual lenses.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 02:23:18 No.3471855 Report

Quoted By: >>3471862 >>3472058

>>3471848
top one is in aprox 3 consecutive frames, bottom is unique in that frame

Here are some other examples, also various scratches and hairs

Lab guy said blue spots could be because of using a filter (85b filter) with close aperture

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 02:34:46 No.3471856 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471850
>>3471846
>>3471843

Okay then, got nothing to lose then, thanks anons <3

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 02:50:18 No.3471859 Report

Quoted By: >>3471883 >>3472562

>>3471851
>nikon has one of the widest lens compatibility system out there
It's full of holes though.
I don't know how you deal with the shit viewfinder of the F80

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 03:18:27 No.3471862 Report

Quoted By: >>3471864

>>3471855
Those are more than likely caused by the camera itself if I had to guess.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 03:28:57 No.3471864 Report

Quoted By: >>3471866

>>3471862
first time ever i encounter blue burns in my frames, what can cause them? it's a fujica stx-1, fully mechanical slr.
Should i look for light leaks or something else?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 03:32:15 No.3471866 Report

Quoted By: >>3471868

>>3471864
Not them but I doesn't look like light leaks, is the film expired?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 03:41:21 No.3471868 Report

Quoted By: >>3471871

>>3471866
I forgot to add, the roll was bulk loaded fuji 500t, non expired, and it seems it was badly taped to the spool beacuse i couldnt rewind, dev guy took it out on dark room.
Maybe the film was loose inside the camera and caused reflections on itself?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 03:58:35 No.3471871 Report

Quoted By: >>3471872 >>3471873

>>3471868
It could be light leaked while you were loading then. Either way it seems like from you buying it, to it being developed, there was a lot of potential for something bad to happen to it.

However, I actually like how it came out. I used to have a Petri 7s that had a bad seal and It would yeild very similar results except they were more like halos of light leakages

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO wtf.jpg, 477KiB, 1000x800

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 04:07:10 No.3471872 Report

Quoted By: >>3471874

>>3471871
i know its not a big deal, but i kinda wanted to know
this for example, these look like screens

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 04:08:32 No.3471873 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471871
thanks google

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 04:09:28 No.3471874 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471872
They could be from light leak in the front of the camera? I am shamelessly phone posting from work right now otherwise I would be able to post examples similar to yours like I have on my laptop.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 04:30:35 No.3471876 Report

Quoted By: >>3471914

Is Ilfotec HC the exact same as HC-110? I can't get HC-110 where I am but the Ilford stuff is available. I know that they're said to be equivalent, but are they exactly the same shit?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 05:12:12 No.3471883 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471859
nevertheless none other SLR system lets you get a brand new lens off the shelf and mount it on cameras made back to '77 with no modifications whatsoever and, just by adding a metal prong, can be used all the way back to the original nikon F from 1959.

>I don't know how you deal with the shit viewfinder of the F80
I guess by being used to crop sensor DSLRs ;)
but yea, what's wrong with it?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 06:11:00 No.3471889 Report

Quoted By: >>3471906 >>3471919 >>3473485

I've got a good deal on a fujica gm670.
Anyone have experience or opinions on the camera?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 06:32:29 No.3471896 Report

Quoted By: >>3472035 >>3472562

Anyone have a good youtube video on not only how to set up a dark room for color prints, but also how to do prints after getting it set up? Theres so many "heres the shit you need and what it should look like," but none that actually tell you the steps to use the equipment.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 07:02:05 No.3471899 Report

Quoted By: >>3471933

>>3471840
No mention of a stop bath, or even stop step. Let us know how your one shot fixer works out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 07:31:53 No.3471906 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471889
IIRC, these cameras have a secondary shutter that is engaged when the lens is removed to protect the film from light. It usually doesn't actuate correctly, if at all, so it might cause you issues.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 08:15:34 No.3471914 Report

Quoted By: >>3471996

>>3471840
I've got a F-501. It's the kind of SLR you buy when you can't afford, or otherwise justify, a F-801, F90x, F100, or F5. With the prices that Nikon lenses have these days, this makes F-501 (and probably F-301 as well) effectively into fancy rear caps for kit lenses. Much better than Soviet SLRs or the like of course, but F5 (200€ in 2015) & F100 (145€ w/ grip in 2017) are so much better still.

>>3471876
They're not the same stuff. But they're very similar: hydroquinone replenished phenidone (Ilford's molecule) or dimethizone (Kodak's name for similar), plus a fuckton of restrainers because the combination is super hot. Hence why dil.A dev times are half the times for dil.B.

Ilfotec HC goes off a lot quicker and its handling is much easier because it's nowhere near as syrupy. Recipes for Ilfotec HC and HC-110 tend to also extend the development times for Ilfotec HC 1+31 by about ½ minute over HC-110(B). I have no idea what Ilfotec LC is, because it makes no darn sense to sell a watered-down HC.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 08:34:36 No.3471919 Report

Quoted By: >>3471928

>>3471889
I've got a GW690ii and it's an absolute beast of a camera, I've got no complaints with it besides the size and weight but it's to be expected with a MF camera.
Initially I wanted a GW670 or GM670 but I already had a TLR so thought 6x7 would be too close to 6x6 and that the 690 was significantly cheaper too so I said fuck it and went with the 690.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 09:29:42 No.3471928 Report

Quoted By: >>3472562

>>3471919
I'll never understand why people guy a large camera and then complain that it's large and heavy...

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 09:39:36 No.3471930 Report

Quoted By: >>3472562

got my film developed yesterday. really need to start developing and enlarging by myself

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 09:56:19 No.3471933 Report

Quoted By: >>3471955

>>3471899
not him but it's called a quick rinse

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 11:38:08 No.3471955 Report

Quoted By: >>3471957

>>3471933
One more variable in the chain. Enjoy your constitent results.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 11:42:38 No.3471957 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471955
what does this even mean

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 12:26:33 No.3471969 Report

Quoted By: >>3471971 >>3472002

I shot some film and here are the results.

Are the blue tint caused by the camera?

I use a canon p&s and a fresh superia 400 film.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 12:29:01 No.3471971 Report

Quoted By: >>3472390 >>3472394

>>3471969
How was it developed? How was it scanned?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 14:09:00 No.3471996 Report

Quoted By: >>3472056

>>3471914
About the Ilfotec vs HC-110, that's exactly what I wanted to know. It's shocking to me how detailed and accurate the information I get from anonymous users here sometimes. More than just telling me "it's the same" or "it's different" you took the time to describe even the chemistry and dev time differences. What I'm saying is, thank you.
It seems for my uses, Ilfotec HC will do just fine and produce similar results with slight dev adjustments. I'll go with that since I mostly shoot HP5 anyway.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 14:20:19 No.3472002 Report

Quoted By: >>3472041 >>3472049 >>3472394 >>3472721

>>3471969
that shot looks underexposed, superia hates being underexposed and you can see the green cast in the shadows, but that also looks like a shit scan

what camera?

giannis

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giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:14:36 No.3472035 Report

Quoted By: >>3472039

>>3471896
What do you need to know anon?
Colour prints (RA-4) are a bit of a hassle. You have to work in complete darkness. Printing and developing them is treated like developing film:
once you have the enlarger focused and the filtration dialed in, easel fixed in place, turn off the lights and load the easel with the paper by feel. expose it, load the paper into a drum (it's essentially an enlarged dev tank), then turn on the light.
Then develop like film, pouring the chems in and out of the drum, according to the specified times.
Once done, check exposure and colour balance. Use a viewing filter set for colour balance, or waste a shitton of time and paper while figuring it out manually. A viewing filter set is a piece of cardboard with little windows cut out, each window covered with a different plastic film, of different colour and density. You look at your print through the different colours, and the one that makes it look the most neutral (or to your liking), you check the filtration written next to that window and dial it in you enlarger. Then your print will come out as it looked through that coloured window.
If your need to dial in an extreme correction in filtration (either because you messed up the initial filtration or if you shot under strongly coloured artificial light and you want to correct to neutral), the exposure will be a bit off after you dial in the filtration. Then you'll need to make a final print to correct the exposure.

Essentially you need an extra round of test prints compared to B&W, to get exposure *and* colour balance right. And each round of development has to happen in a drum and not a tray, unless you're experienced in working in absolute darkness. So it takes more time, you can't tell straight away the colour balance after of 1-2min of the print in the developer tray - as you do with B&W - you have to complete development of a print before you can evaluate colour balance and exposure.
If time's not an issue, you can do it.

giannis

giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:20:02 No.3472039 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472035
Forgot to say, initial filtration - your starting point - can be found on the paper and film specs.
Also, once you figured out the colour balance for a paper and film combo, write it down and use it for that combo with that combo without adjusting anything.
You'll only need to adjust it if you want to correct white balance in frames where the scene was not lit according to the film's white balance: i.e. daylight film under tungsten light, or fluorescent or whatever.
But once you have, say, the filtration down for a daylight film in daylight scenes, you can use it safely with no adjustments for any (daylight) scene shot on that specific film (Portra, Ektar, etc.).

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:20:33 No.3472041 Report

Quoted By: >>3472046

>>3472002
not actual anon who asked, but when everybody says "overexpose rather than underexpose" you guys mean by HOW MUCH
I got a kodak 200 roll and mostly i see that everyone hates it, should i meter s if it was 100asa? fujica stx has a needle style center weighed meter i guess so it kinda sucks for compensating

giannis

giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:25:20 No.3472046 Report

Quoted By: >>3472052 >>3472068

>>3472041
>"overexpose rather than underexpose" you guys mean by HOW MUCH
I'd say, meter the shadows and add one stop. If you overdo it (3+ stops) you'll start getting degradation and increased grain.

An ISO200 film shot at 100, with an averaging meter, in many shots won't even be overexposed, cause the meter might catch some bright parts of the scene and suggest an exposure that would actually be underexposing (to preserve highlights with slides). So setting the ISO one stop lower is just bringing it back in line and giving the film correct exposure.

In your case, I'd say set the camera at 100 or 80, and keep metering as you meter now.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO AA035.jpg, 747KiB, 1000x666

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:27:44 No.3472049 Report

Quoted By: >>3472069 >>3472562

>>3472002
Not actual anon who asked, but i got this doubt about how much to overexpose color negative film, since everybody says "overexpose rather than underexpose".
Last rolls of fuji 500t i shot came up with those kind of blown colored shadows and i thought it was because of bad scan, since i remember one a dev guy told me they try to correct exposure when coping/scanning for common customers.
My next roll will be a kodak colorplus 200, should i overexpose the entire roll by metering at 100 asa? Fujica stx-1 has a needle style center weighed meter so its kind of hard to expose for a small area at least its too bright

(this shot is on fuji 500t +85b)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:29:52 No.3472052 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472046
sorry, forgot to say it was shot on other film, so i deleted and reposted, you're fast anon.

I'll try that then, thanks <3

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:37:55 No.3472056 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471996
Hey no problem. I'm just regurgitating what the Internet told me, plus what I've seen of the viscosity of HC-110 (by experience over about 3 liters of the golden goo) and Ilfotec HC (mixed it once at a buddy's darkroom). Personally I don't see much of a reason to use Ilfotec since HC-110 is so economical (like 0.25€ per roll at dil.B, oneshot) and Ilfotec HC is both more expensive and keeps for a shorter time. Though Ilford's recipes for HP5+ in their own developers should at least be fully correct.

That being said I've been meaning to try DD-X sometime. Heard it's like D-76 but as a liquid concentrate.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:42:42 No.3472058 Report

Quoted By: >>3472062

>>3471855
the spots look like they might be a pinhole in the cloth shutter, and the fringe on the side could either be from bulk rolling (if it's close to the leader) or the rear shutter dragging slightly before fully closing.

scratches probably came from bulk loading or from removing the film from the camera in the dark room.

the 3 rectangles are strange, have they appeared in any other frame? it may be a reflection from somewhere. Are they visible in the Neg?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20190430_124808-01.jpg, 1MiB, 1366x1366

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 15:54:40 No.3472062 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472058
No, those are unique and look oddly defined
They are in the neg, is the only frame

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:17:13 No.3472068 Report

Quoted By: >>3472073 >>3472075 >>3472093 >>3472567

>>3472046
i have a second stx-1 that has a broken meter, which is a cheap light meter i can get? like, cheapest but effective

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 2.22.1.8-1.jpg, 2MiB, 2000x1326

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:17:37 No.3472069 Report

Quoted By: >>3472077 >>3472310

>>3472049
i'm really not a fan of overexposing an entire roll by a set amount. i shoot superia 400 a lot mostly at box speed but erred to the side of overexposure. try spot metering your subjects with a light meter or phone app. the needle meter in my SRT201 is off so much that I shoot just with a light meter app which has demonstrated itself to be very accurate.

i meter either for the subject, when it's a person, or for the shadows in a scene with good results.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:21:48 No.3472073 Report

Quoted By: >>3472075 >>3472567

>>3472068
Honestly, get one of those Lightmeter apps. They work reasonably well

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot_2019-04-08-21-20-29.png, 3MiB, 1440x2560

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:24:25 No.3472075 Report

Quoted By: >>3472567 >>3475132 >>3475380

>>3472068
>>3472073
i second that. i use this one every day with 35mm slr's and a medium format folder even shooting slide film. your phone has several cameras and can really measure light accurately

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:28:57 No.3472077 Report

Quoted By: >>3472079

>>3472069
thanks, i'll give it a go.
I used to use a phone app, but always gave me odd results on my old android.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 16:36:11 No.3472079 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472077
yeah i think the old camera api did not allow reading raw sensor data but newer versions work no problem. if your android device runs open camera with full manual controls, than the light meter app will work fine.

i would still double check the results against a dslr before going out shooting though

giannis

giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 17:47:51 No.3472093 Report

Quoted By: >>3472095 >>3472096 >>3472567

>>3472068
Cheapest would be an app on your phone. It's accurate enough.
For an actual physical meter, I'd say something from Gossen.
The old zero-needle Lunasix F (Luna-Pro F in the US) is great value, it can be found for ~70$. It's very sensitive (-1EV to +17EV with ISO100), and the setting range is completely insane:
ISO 0.8 to 100,000, shutter speeds 1/4000 to 8 *hours*, apertures f/0.7 to f/128, etc.

Most importantly, it does incident+refelctive+flash metering. Also, it accepts attachments for spot and some more niche stuff like print exposures in the darkroom (so you won't need to do test prints).
The metering sensor is a modern SBC cell, so it's better than CdS used in most vintage meters and cameras, and of course in a different league compared to selenium (avoid those).

Another option could be the Gossen Profisix (Luno-Pro sbc in US). Slightly older, but higher end model. More or less the same as above, with the exception that it has even wider sensitivity (-5EV to +24EV at ISO100), and has electrical contacts to "recognise" accessories like the spot attachment (in the Lunasix F, each attachment requires some compensation, which you dial in when using that attachment).

I vastly prefer those zero-needle meters, cause I like having the all the different shutter/aperture combinations viewable at once with a glance. And also, it's metering different parts of the scene, to judge brightness relative to each other, since there's a -3EV to +3EV readout on the meter, so you can tell immediately this part of the scene is +2 stops brighter than that part, without having to do any calculation with apertures or shutters. Lastly some of the niceties of these specific meters are the cine-scale, telling you your aperture for the fps you're shooting (for shutter angle 180º).

However if you prefer a digital readout, the Gossen Mastersix that replaced the above meters was top of the line at its time. You can find it for ~100-120$. [cont.]

giannis

giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 17:51:45 No.3472095 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472093
[cont.]

At that price point though, a bit more and you can get a brand new sekonic flashmate L308s. It's accurate, with basic functionality, and very small.

Finally, as I was surfing eBay to check current prices, I stumbled upon a UK auction for a Lunasix F, misspelt with 0 bids, and the guy has no idea what it is, seems to be in great condition and working.
Check it out if shipping is not too much.

>https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gossen-lunasis-f/233213147055?hash=item364c9637af:g:moYAAOSwXm9cyFHO&frcectupt=true

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO gossen Lunasix F.jpg, 51KiB, 475x700

giannis Tue 30 Apr 2019 17:53:25 No.3472096 Report

Quoted By: >>3472567

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO darkroom.jpg, 1MiB, 5000x3948

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 18:25:12 No.3472105 Report

Quoted By: >>3472106 >>3472111 >>3472117 >>3472118 >>3472567 >>3472850 >>3475413

Here's some photos of my darkroom I've spent the last 2.5 years building in case anyone cares. I have a small darkroom I've printed up to 16x20, and can do 20x24.

Excited about the Jobo ATL 1000 I got last year, pretty good price for $1000 on craigslist. the ATL 1500 seems to be better because its programmable, but this gets the job done. Mainly for color film developing, which I had not done before, this makes it super easy. I can dev two rolls of 120, 3 rolls (not super sure) of 35mm, or 6 4x5 sheets. Its made 4x5 color shooting basically as economical as 120, and nearly everyone quit developing film in my area anyways. I think the professional places near me (big city) wants $4 per 4x5 neg for processing. It takes me ~300mL for 6, so total for 4x5 negs is less than $1 each. I get 5L pack of Rollei color chemicals for ~$80/85. Black and white I still do by hand because the Jobo is constant agitation, so not the best bw results (though bw has always been easy to do by hand).

(1/2)

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 18:26:12 No.3472106 Report

Quoted By: >>3472111

>>3472105

Enlarger wise, I got a Zone VI enlarger from a guy in a lot off craiglist for $400, including 20x24 easel (godsend, these things are expensive), Metrolux cold-light timer, and foot-pedal. My first enlarger is a Beseler 45MCRX my highschool photo teacher gave me for free, along with all the other pickings, as it was the last year they were doing the darkroom class. I want to set it up to print mural sizes, as it swings horizontally. I also want to get a Dichro color head for it and possibly try and print color.

Next to the Zone VI is a home-made paper flasher I put together, an 8watt 'nightlight' bulb and a few layers of silk to diffuse it in a carboard box. Its hooked up to a timer, most of my exposures are less than a second.

I don't have any running water (its in a backyard shack), so I use a 5 gallon watercooler container with hand-pump (hard to find, only walmart had one), and a giant funnel and another container for waste. I use a door sitting on two saw-horses for a table.

Feel free to ask anything, I've found lots of creative ways to do things.

(2/2)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO beseler.jpg, 311KiB, 1125x2000

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 18:42:04 No.3472111 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472105
>>3472106

small technical details I forgot:

The Jobo I just screw to a garden hose, and use two other 5 gallon water containers as for waste.

Drying racks (far right of bottom image) are two sets of sweater drying racks I found on amazon, fit up to 16x20. The guy I bought the Zone VI from had also made his own racks with screen door screens about 20x24 in size, and pieces of wood. Pretty clever, I can post photos later if anyone is interested. I screwed castors on it and keep it under the desk that holds the Zone VI.

Pic related is the beseler in horizonal Swing

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC06123.jpg, 303KiB, 1200x800

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 19:04:12 No.3472117 Report

Quoted By: >>3472242 >>3472783

>>3472105
looks good man, I wish I had a place to build a darkroom instead of makeshit space in rental apartments.

I have trays for 20x24 and printed a few, so much bloody harder than 11x14

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 19:06:00 No.3472118 Report

Quoted By: >>3472783

>>3472105
Holy shit that's so fucking cool.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO received_1181847705314881.jpg, 772KiB, 3024x4032

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 21:37:17 No.3472191 Report

Quoted By: >>3472380

>>3471535
Who /box camera/ here?
My mum was going through my late grandpa's stuff and found a kodak box 620, a voigtländer brilliant, a zenit TTL with a helios 58/2, a kodak retina, a lubitel 2 and an altissa box. She said she'd give them to me if my uncle also agreed, but worst case scenario I can get them at half ebay price.
I've only ever shot 135 film on a nikkormat, so most of these are pretty interesting to me. The kodak box, the retina and the voigtländer are from before the war.
Has anyone shot any of these?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 21:48:03 No.3472201 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471840
>I feel like every film photographer should own a Nikon for some reason
Canon sometimes tempts me with their EF glass but it just feels so right to shoot with my FM3A. It's like the very history of 35mm photography is in my hands when I hold this camera.
I usually don't condone brandfaggotry but the Nikon logo makes me feel nostalgia for a time I've never actually experienced. If you want peak film experience Nikon+Kodak is the way to go.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _1008280.jpg, 365KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 23:08:23 No.3472242 Report

Quoted By: >>3472244

>>3472117
some spring cleaning

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _1008283.jpg, 296KiB, 960x1280

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 23:10:10 No.3472244 Report

Quoted By: >>3472247

>>3472242
shelves all cleaned up, darkroom and inkjet paper

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _1008285.jpg, 254KiB, 960x1280

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 23:11:18 No.3472247 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472244
where magic happens

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 23:14:03 No.3472250 Report

Quoted By: >>3472253

Am I retarded or is incredibly hard to see out of a enlarger focus finder?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 30 Apr 2019 23:29:15 No.3472253 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472250
*grain focuser
some are harder to see through than others, some are also brighter than others and most have a really small eye relief. I have a hard time seeing through them with my glasses so I take them off and adjust the diopter on the grain focuser to my eye.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 01:52:16 No.3472303 Report

Quoted By: >>3472356 >>3472567

Is it Washing or Baking soda that I need for the remote alkaline bath for ECN-2 films in C-41?

Got a couple hundred feet of Real 500D so I wanna be sure

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 01:58:30 No.3472310 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472069
>the needle meter in my SRT201 is off so much
Mike W.'s minolta SRT site has some resources on how to adjust the needle meter.
http://www.willegal.net/photo/srt/metertuneup.htm
http://www.willegal.net/photo/srt/srt-meter-functional.htm

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 02:29:28 No.3472356 Report

Quoted By: >>3472567

>>3472303
Either one works, I've always used baking soda but some guides say washing soda.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:11:33 No.3472380 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472191
Yes. And 620 iirc is a pain in the ass because you have to fit 120. Basically I just used trimming scissors and trimmed the ends of the roll to make it fit. But once you get it in its fun and fine.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:39:57 No.3472390 Report

Quoted By: >>3472393

>>3471971
It was developed by a local lab. Also scanned by them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:41:52 No.3472393 Report

Quoted By: >>3472395

>>3472390
What camera was it? It looks super underexposed then

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:43:56 No.3472394 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471971
Also my previous rolls with this lab are ok. Different camera though.

>>3472002
Camera is Canon sure shot point and shoot. This is the first roll I shot with the camera though.
For the record all my previous photos using other camera with the same developer, scbner and film turned out to be ok.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 8FA214EA-7F54-4B8C-8C02-3B537F2A (...).jpg, 107KiB, 1280x853

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:46:19 No.3472395 Report

Quoted By: >>3472397 >>3472400 >>3472402 >>3472441 >>3472567

>>3472393
Camera looks like this one. I used the flash in some of the photos and they still look like that.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:48:42 No.3472397 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472395
It's probably broken then, did all the scans look like that?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 03:58:56 No.3472400 Report

Quoted By: >>3472433

>>3472395
I would almost guarantee its the camera. A lot of those types have cheaper seals that light leak like crazy and in the weirdest spots. My Olympus Stylus was the same way.

ac !!hMB1p2jaDAI

ac !!hMB1p2jaDAI Wed 01 May 2019 04:04:32 No.3472402 Report

Quoted By: >>3472433 >>3472529 >>3472531

>>3472395
The photo you posted looks extremely underexposed.

Things to check:
1. Make sure you don't have the film cartridge's ISO overridden to something higher than it is. Not sure if your camera is capable of manually setting the ISO value, so that might not be an issue, although...
2. Make sure the little contacts that press up against the DX coding patches on the film cartridge are clean and springy.
3. If you're shooting with flash at night at a subject that's far away--e.g., trying to take a picture of a large building at night--it's just not going to work. The little flash on the SureShot isn't powerful enough for that. Even a big flash on a better camera isn't.

Was your example picture taken in daylight? If not, do you have any daylight shots, and do they also look like that?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 000048.jpg, 591KiB, 1818x1228

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 05:39:52 No.3472433 Report

Quoted By: >>3472436 >>3472439 >>3472529 >>3472531

>>3472402
I shot mostly daylight.
\Heres another pic

>>3472400
It loooks underexpose. If it has light seals it will be overexposed and will have light streaks.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 000046.jpg, 518KiB, 1818x1228

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 05:48:53 No.3472436 Report

Quoted By: >>3472529 >>3472531

>>3472433

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 06:01:59 No.3472439 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472433
>If it has light seals it will be overexposed and will have light streaks.
No it would have light leaks it wouldn't affect the exposure.
Your camera has exposure comp of +/-1.5 stops but these images look way more than 1.5 stops underexposed, more like 5-6 stops.
The electronics in the camera are definitely failing causing the exposure value to be affected. I had a Ricoh R1s and after a while it just started underexposing my photos. There's no way to fix a camera when the electronics fail, your camera is fucked throw it away.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 06:07:23 No.3472441 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472395
meter is dead, spend $2 at the local thrift shop and get another camera

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 10:13:01 No.3472511 Report

Quoted By: >>3473210

Brisbane anon. When and where is your exhibition on Friday

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 11:37:20 No.3472529 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472433
>>3472436

why the FUCK do people use SCANS to determine whether shitty SCANS are the fault of the camera, the developing, the film, or the scanning? seriously WHY.

Fucking look at the god damn film. Does the film look okay? Yes? Great, then they fucked up the scanning and everything is fine. They REALLY fucked up the scanning. That lab must be retarded, don't pay for scans from them anymore.

Film doesn't look okay? Great! Then the scanning isn't the problem. You said other rolls from the lab are usually fine, so let's assume for now they didn't botch the developing. Did you have any rolls developed at the same time as this one? They turned out fine? Okay then we can pretty much rule out botched developing if that's the case.

That leaves us with the film (that you claim is fresh) or the camera (that you haven't developed another roll from before?) being at fault. If the film is fresh odds are it isn't the problem.

So that leaves the camera. If you've checked these things >>3472402 and everything seems fine then you're probably shit out of luck. Before tossing the camera, maybe give another roll a try. Up to you.

I will say #2, checking the DX coding patches, is definitely worthwhile. If for some reason those aren't making contact with the cartridge the camera would revert to metering at 100iso...giving you 2 stops underexposure and potentially results like these.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 11:39:49 No.3472531 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472433
>>3472436

why the FUCK do people use SCANS to determine whether shitty SCANS are the fault of the camera, the developing, the film, or the scanning? seriously WHY.

Fucking look at the god damn film. Does the film look okay? Yes? Great, then they fucked up the scanning and everything is fine. They REALLY fucked up the scanning. That lab must be retarded, don't pay for scans from them anymore.

Film doesn't look okay? Great! Then the scanning isn't the problem. You said other rolls from the lab are usually fine, so let's assume for now they didn't botch the developing. Did you have any rolls developed at the same time as this one? They turned out fine? Okay then we can pretty much rule out botched developing if that's the case.

That leaves us with the film (that you claim is fresh) or the camera (that you haven't developed another roll from before?) being at fault. If the film is fresh odds are it isn't the problem.

So that leaves the camera. If you've checked these things >>3472402 and everything seems fine then you're probably shit out of luck. Before tossing the camera, maybe give another roll a try. Up to you.

But really people, stop trying to determine where your shit went wrong by judging the scans. God damn do none of you have problem solving skills?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 13:06:05 No.3472562 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471828
Looks sweet! Nice work.

>>3471851
>>3471859
I went with Canon cause it seemed much simpler. Any EOS will work with any Canon EF lens. Third-party sometimes seems to have issues though. I wanted to get a cheap Yongnuo 50 mm until I read about problems on older cameras. Just got a plastic fantastic second-hand instead. Maybe I'll branch out into Nikon sometime. Right now I'm adding to the collection with old cheap viewfinders and rangefinders.

>>3471896
Get yourself some dirt cheap old books on eBay. Lots of good stuff out there. I've also found a fuckload of manuals and old books on Scribd. I have a subscription, would be willing to upload a big-ass archive with stuff I've downloaded if there's interest and someone can point me to a good service to do so.

>>3471928
I love 'm chunky. Can't stand most modern flimsy crap. I've fixed a headphone last weekend by soldering on a new 3.5 mm jack and it was the most frustrating, fiddly work.

>>3471930
What film is this? Print or scan? The lab I use has been variable in its results. They got a new scanner and it's got issues with banding and selecting proper black points for B&W. I'm hesitating whether I first get a 35 mm scanner first and leave the dev to the lab, or just jump into both processes at the same time.

>>3472049
My last roll of Kodak CP 200 was shot at box speed, which I always do, and came out fine. I think pushing and pulling are overrated and better used for saving mistakes or dealing with restrictions in lighting. If you have center-weighted metering just scan around over your composition and check the lowest and highest points. If they're not too many stops over or under you'll be fine. This film can deal easily with a big latitude.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 13:23:38 No.3472567 Report

Quoted By: >>3472783

>>3472073
>>3472075
I'm interested in that. Got some old cameras on the way with either doubtful selenium meters or CdS meters that I don't have batteries for yet, so I'm either going by sunny 16 or using my phone. Does it really work that well? Maybe I can experiment a bit by comparing readings from an SLR with the phone?

>>3472068
Something cheap from eBay or second-hand market in good condition. Stay away from selenium meters. They work by generating current through light which means they don't need a battery but tend to degrade over time. CdS (cadmium sulphide) cell meters last longer but work by varying resistance under influence of light so they need a battery. Batteries for these are sometimes mercury and not available anymore, so you might need some adapter for current batteries that adjusts the current.

>>3472093
Sounds amazing! Thanks for the tip.

>>3472096
I'd snipe that but someone else can probably use it better. Thanks for the generosity in pointing people towards this.

>>3472105
Friggin' awesome! You do this as a hobby or make money off it?

>>3472303
>>3472356
I thought it was just baking soda. Wouldn't washing soda be way too aggressive? Also I heard RA-4 can work for processing ECN-2 film. I've got some Kodak Vision3 50D coming in the mail, still need to get equipment to spool it onto rolls.

>>3472395
Point & shoots are a dime a dozen. Get another one.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190501_102249_resize_86.jpg, 304KiB, 750x1000

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 14:29:45 No.3472599 Report

Quoted By: >>3472612 >>3472620 >>3472630 >>3472636

Hello guys.
I'm the anon that recently got an F-100, pic related.
Things I've learnt so far after getting my first roll developed:
-No matter how good the camera, it's only as good as the hands holding it.
-F-100s need heavy duty batteries
-It has lots of functions I can't even start to comprehend.
I will get the courage to post sometime some pics from the aforementioned roll, but I feel embarrassed with the results I got given the prestige of the camera.
That's why I decided to go the academic way.
I'm reading:
-The film photography handbook - Marquardt
-Starting photography - Langford
I hope these help other noobs like me!

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 15:03:54 No.3472612 Report

Quoted By: >>3472926

>>3472599
>It has lots of functions I can't even start to comprehend.
Such as? Maybe we can help putting it in understandable terms. I'm a Canon shooter but most of it should be recognisable, cause...
>I will get the courage to post sometime some pics from the aforementioned roll, but I feel embarrassed with the results I got given the prestige of the camera.
Prestige doesn't matter all that much for a film camera. It'll determine how good it's metering is, auto-focus, how durable it is, lens options. But in the end once that shutter opens all there is is the film and the lens. Post your pics in the recent photo thread, you might get decent feedback. Don't feel embarrassed, no way to get better without shooting and experimenting. Enjoy the ride!
Thanks for the book references. I've seen the Film Photography Handbook, looks interesting. I've been enjoying the 35 mm Handbook by Michael Freeman. Can recommend.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 15:52:15 No.3472620 Report

Quoted By: >>3472630 >>3472926

>>3472599
Your good cop inspired me to dig out my F100 and shoot a roll just today. It's a nice camera indeed with glass to match. I use Eneloops in mine, but they're kinda thicc so if the battery holder doesn't go in smoothly and, more importantly, doesn't come out again smoothly, don't force it in all the way. I broke one of them trying to pull it out with a pair of pliers, found out the metal tab is aluminium and not steel... 25€ mistake right thur.

The F100 is well-documented in its manual, which is available at butkus dot org somewhere. Dig around, "nikon f100 manual pdf" in a search engine. Most of the options are for convenience and should be utilized in order of "hey, wouldn't it be nice if the camera chose an aperture for 1/250s, oh there's S mode, well that's very convenient". However, if you're shooting indoors or at night under artificial light, change to center-weighted metering; the matrix meter is easily confused by things like neon lights and so forth.

One can only get better by practicing; for example, I've been photographing things since 2014 and am still at the level of "maybe one keeper per roll". But that could just be my critique evolving in lockstep with skills (ha ha, as if).

As for the so-called prestige of the camera: it's not a Leica, Contax, Ricoh GR, Yashica T*, Minox, or a patrician-tier F1/F2/F3. It's completely acceptable to use a F100 for, effectively, super fine point-and-shooting. And it's completely acceptable to post said snaps for us to give you better pointers with. In general if what you're doing is causing you to have thoughts new to you on the topic of what you're doing, then you're on the right track.

Now get a tripod and have some real fun.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 16:08:45 No.3472630 Report

Quoted By: >>3472926

>>3472599
>>3472620
http://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_f100.pdf
Butkus is a great resource. I've download manuals for pretty much all the cameras I own or plan to own. Once you've read about 2 manuals for an SLR like a Canon EOS or later Nikon F-series most of it will apply to a large number of cameras. There's always a few specific variations to learn though.
Other people will have different opinions but I started shooting about everything in manual mode and only recently started using aperture and shutter priority. Aperture priority is great for shots where you don't have much time (like street photography) and want to emphasise proper depth of field, shutter priority is good for movement. Takes a while to find out which shutter speeds give the proper effect for various subjects at various distances. For aperture I've found it's way easier to overestimate the depth of field (as in, think it's deeper than it turns out) than underestimate. Also, if you're shooting rolls under ISO 400 it's pretty hard to get something acceptable when the light gets dimmer. An affordable tripod is a great investment depending on what you shoot and when and where. I got a Neewer tripod that was pretty cheap and does the job just fine.

I hear ya about the "one keeper per roll". It's regularly the pics where I wasn't overthinking things and just shot in the moment, or where I did take my time and carefully composed and metered but the end result is really unexpected. For beginner anon, try both colour and black & white. Very different ways of thinking. I'm finding myself much more attracted to B&W.

Man, the whole process of learning all this stuff is really half the fun for me. But also a bit intimidating. I'm always amazed at the knowledge some anons here exhibit regarding developing and printing.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Laruelle-3-D-G2.jpg, 207KiB, 550x786

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 16:30:25 No.3472636 Report

Quoted By: >>3472656 >>3472926

>>3472599
nice camera, I used to enjoy shooting it when I had one but sold it once I got my F3. I forgot about it being a battery hog, what is it 4-6 rolls on a set of AAs?
Function wise it is fairly straight forward as I recall, and will be very familiar to anyone who has a 100series digital Nikon. Prestige wise, don't worry about it, most people will probably confuse it for a digital, and the manual Nikons (FM, FE, F2, F3, Nikkormat) are generally held higher. That said the matrix metering is pretty much the best ever put into a film camera.

don't worry too much about "how to photograph" books, and instead play around with "P" and "A". Shoot lots, shoot cheep film if you have to, and think about "why photograph."

Why is honestly more important than how. Why can be as simple as "I like to", or as convoluted as Neo Post-Modern Non-Photography

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 16:35:50 No.3472641 Report

Quoted By:

Picked up a Bronica SQ-A kit from a oldtimer, but the camera didn't come with a strap. Any recommendations for a strap for my camera? Looking for comfort more than anything.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:26:13 No.3472656 Report

Quoted By: >>3472659

>>3472636
4 AA batteries. At least it's regular AA instead of the specific lithium batteries many cameras need. How's that book? It sounds interesting. MIT Press tends to have some good stuff.

Scammed by Ken Rockwell

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190501_161030-01.jpg, 134KiB, 1366x1025

Scammed by Ken Rockwell Wed 01 May 2019 17:29:34 No.3472658 Report

Quoted By: >>3472664 >>3472670

Lyin Ken convinced me to buy this camera, he said it was "the most advanced manual focus slr Nikon has ever made". And it cost like a third of what an FM3A is going for these days. The thing is, a mere hour after unboxing it the shutter advance lever started jumping. Instead of cocking the shutter and leaving it like that it instantly fires it without me touching the shutter button. I wound it a couple of times, changed modes, changed speeds, shook it a bit and eventually it started working again, then it got fucked again and right now it seems to be working.
I otherwise like the camera and it seems like a bit of fucking around with speeds does fix the issue, but the ad said it was tested and fully working. What should I tell the seller to get a partial refund while also keeping the camera? I made a video of the problem.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:37:39 No.3472659 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472656
so far the book is very opaque and has been taking me 2-3 readings just for a surface level understanding of what he is saying. That said it has takes an interesting ontological approach, and nice break form dreary photo secession based theory that so dominates modern photography.

but bloody hell, Laruelle makes Baudrillard read like a children's author

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25Vaaja1911.jpg, 582KiB, 858x1280

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:41:37 No.3472661 Report

Quoted By: >>3472662

Decided to take a walk around my old hometown and see how RPX 25 goes with an orange-green dual color filter. Seems to work better than just plain orange.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25Vaaja1919.jpg, 607KiB, 844x1280

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:42:43 No.3472662 Report

Quoted By: >>3472663

>>3472661

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25Vaaja1922.jpg, 700KiB, 1440x957

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:44:24 No.3472663 Report

Quoted By: >>3472665

>>3472662
Most of the time it's not really obvious where the colors change, but here's a red brick wall to really bring it out.

ac !!hMB1p2jaDAI

ac !!hMB1p2jaDAI Wed 01 May 2019 17:44:35 No.3472664 Report

Quoted By: >>3472671

>>3472658
I'm no fan of Ken Rockwell, but unless you were sold the camera by Ken Rockwell personally, why are you bitching about him so much?

The particular copy of the camera you got is broken. That doesn't necessarily mean Rockwell was wrong in his recommendation. There's no such thing as a camera model that's completely immune to damage or failure.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25Vaaja1925.jpg, 503KiB, 839x1280

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:45:29 No.3472665 Report

Quoted By: >>3472667 >>3472697 >>3472723

>>3472663

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25Vaaja1926.jpg, 716KiB, 1440x946

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:47:16 No.3472667 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472665
Last one. Hoping for some rainstorms soon so the leaves will break out in full force and the green side of the filter might show a bit more of what it can do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:48:48 No.3472670 Report

Quoted By: >>3472673

>>3472658
You got a flake, chill out, shit happens. Describe the problem to the seller and hopefully you'll have an agreement. The fault probably isn't too big of a deal for a tech to fix.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:49:20 No.3472671 Report

Quoted By: >>3472678

>>3472664
It was a joke because ken has meme status on /p/. And that wasn't even the main point of my post. Why did this upset you so much? Do you breathe through your mouth?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 17:52:14 No.3472673 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472670
>shit happens
Yes I know, I'm asking what to tell the seller because I don't want to just send it back for a refund and find another one. It took me a while to find one in such a nice cosmetic condition and I'd rather just keep it, get it CLA'd and pray for the best. But I don't know if ebay does partial refunds, and billing the CLA to the seller seems way too elaborate for him to deal with it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 18:00:33 No.3472678 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472671
Just return the camera for a refund, mouth-breather.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 18:34:36 No.3472697 Report

Quoted By: >>3472711

>>3472665
Good stuff sir. Fore- mid- and background are all interesting, and even the clouds look detailed (if not very richly). Plus the level of detail is such that if this were my negative, I'd be wetprinting it right now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 18:51:41 No.3472705 Report

Quoted By:

i think iam about to buy the Nikon EM + the 50mm 1,8 for 30€ now
i wished it was a f3 but oh well...

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 19:04:05 No.3472711 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472697
Thanks man. RPX 25 can be a bitch to deal with but it's real nice once you nail it down. I found plain orange filter improved the skies and clouds but it also made the contrast on everything else blow over, looks like the O-G combination is working out a little better.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screenshot_20190502-030351_Samsu (...).jpg, 526KiB, 1435x962

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 19:07:01 No.3472715 Report

Quoted By: >>3472726

I'm looking at this completely clean grime, scratch, brassing and dent free FE in fully working condition for $100. Is this too good to be true? How come other FEs in worse condition are priced $50 higher?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 19:15:37 No.3472721 Report

Quoted By: >>3473233

>>3472002
What was this scanned on? Looks really good

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO CNV00077.jpg, 195KiB, 584x1000

giannis Wed 01 May 2019 19:20:57 No.3472723 Report

Quoted By: >>3472738 >>3473011

>>3472665
Nice. How did you dev it anon? I think I did mine in XTol 1+1 per the recommended time, and it was a bit too contrasty for my liking. As if I was shooting with a red filter or something. Whites were not blown (but they were blocked, not much separation), and blacks were crushed so much it'd make KKK proud.

giannis

giannis Wed 01 May 2019 19:23:31 No.3472726 Report

Quoted By: >>3472750

>>3472715
>How come other FEs in worse condition are priced $50 higher?
Keep wondering for a bit longer and that's what you'll be left for you to buy.
The price is not too ridiculously good to be true, you just found a good deal. If buying through ebay you're covered in case of scam/malfunctioning item, so go for it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 19:37:25 No.3472738 Report

Quoted By: >>3472748

>>3472723
Looking at the grain, I'd guess they used Rodinal.

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Acros13.jpg, 297KiB, 1000x689

giannis Wed 01 May 2019 20:06:27 No.3472748 Report

Quoted By: >>3472758 >>3472780

>>3472738
Could be.
I guess I'll try pulling it a bit next time.
That said, if I can get the contrast right it could be a nice Acros replacement. Very clean and grainless. But Acros' specular highlights will be missed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 20:09:28 No.3472750 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472726
Alright you sold me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 20:38:49 No.3472758 Report

Quoted By: >>3472780

>>3472748
I've heard people favorably comparing Rollei Retro 80S to Acros. Haven't shot any of either, so can't comment on it with anything of substance.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 21:33:16 No.3472780 Report

Quoted By: >>3472789

>>3472748
>>3472758
My experience of Retro 80s is that it's not orthochromatic like Acros, it's super-panchromatic like Acros isn't, and that it has dynamic range like slide film, while Acros has more. Resolution it does have, but that was never the reason for me to shoot Acros; it was the colour reproduction and contrast.

Last year around this time, when we were lamenting Acros' demise, the idea was floated to try panchromatic film of reasonable resolution and contrast characteristics, under a green filter. Of course TMY isn't going to pony up like Acros did, and TMX with a 4x filter is tripod slow (or arctic circle summer slow, as seen).

I'm just gonna shoot all my Acros (some 17 rolls in the fridge) on non-snapshitting outings, and then mentally curse Fujifilm for cutting it, but eventually forget.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO s.mac844editsmall.jpg, 991KiB, 2000x1521

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 21:40:15 No.3472783 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472117
>looks good man, I wish I had a place to build a darkroom instead of makeshit space in rental apartments.
Thanks! This is all at a family member's house I stay at, I may have to move out soon and start renting, so I'm not sure what I'll do with all of it, but I will find a way!

>I have trays for 20x24 and printed a few, so much bloody harder than 11x14
I haven't done 20x24 but I can imagine the difficulty, even at 16x20 preventing the paper from buckling is hard, 20x24 must require two tongs, or hands.

>>3472118
Holy shit that's so fucking cool.
Thanks!

>>3472567
>Friggin' awesome! You do this as a hobby or make money off it?

Thanks! I work part time but I am trying to do this as a main gig. I graduated 2 years ago with a BFA, might try and get a MFA somewhere cheap and get to teaching as a side gig.

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Rollei 80S5.jpg, 228KiB, 1000x634

giannis Wed 01 May 2019 21:49:32 No.3472789 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472780
>My experience of Retro 80s is that it's not orthochromatic like Acros, it's super-panchromatic like Acros isn't, and that it has dynamic range like slide film, while Acros has more. Resolution it does have, but that was never the reason for me to shoot Acros;
Yeah my thoughts exactly.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190501_232051.jpg, 3MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 23:11:38 No.3472850 Report

Quoted By: >>3473226

>>3472105
Nice digs m8

I'm back in makeshift dk this evening. Still perfecting crisp black borders. This little setup is an improvement on the previous iterations.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190502_002706.jpg, 3MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 23:31:18 No.3472854 Report

Quoted By: >>3473226

And here is the result. I'm still doing some trial and error burning in on the right hand third, just to even everything out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 01 May 2019 23:54:56 No.3472881 Report

Quoted By:

>>3468232
>>3468306
>>3468565
>>3468997
>>3469445

snapshit is still snapshit even if its on a film roll

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 00:38:12 No.3472926 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472612
>>3472620
>>3472630
>>3472636
Thanks for your support guys, I'm going for round two soon-ish, I'll also get around to scanning the pics I took, maybe upload one or two that look worth it.
I really like my F-100. It's my first properly nice camera

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 02:42:33 No.3472982 Report

Quoted By: >>3472985 >>3473004 >>3473049 >>3473232

Canon ae-1 program vs Pentax K-1000?

giannis

giannis Thu 02 May 2019 02:46:56 No.3472985 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472982
If you wanna overpay for a basic bitch overshilled camera, might as well get a contax compact.

>just get an A1/F1 if you like Canon, MX/ME if you like Pentax

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 03:03:22 No.3473004 Report

Quoted By: >>3473037

>>3472982
fuck em' both

if you really wan't a k1000 look, get a km, kx or k2
the k1000 was the entry level model, but because hipsters, its the most expensive one

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO KARSRPX25031923.jpg, 652KiB, 852x1280

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 03:14:29 No.3473011 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472723
Rodinal 1+25, 15 secs short from recommended time in effort to reduce the contrast a little. Pic related was with Xtol and plain orange filter.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 03:49:58 No.3473037 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473004
Also K-mount has Ricoh and Cosina bodies which go for pennies because nobody knows or cares about them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 04:04:08 No.3473049 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472982
Pentax k1000 if you intend to shoot mostly in manual, or if you ever want to shoot in manual. canon ae-1p for auto exposure in shutter priority or program. manual mode on the ae-1p is kind of weird as the viewfinder meter display shows the f stop required for proper exposure at the currently selected shutter speed. doesn't tell you what fstop or shutter speed is currently selected so you have to take your face off the finder to confirm the lens aperture ring for proper exposure. with the k1000 needle meter in the middle you at least know that the current settings will yield a proper exposure.
k1000 has hipster tax added so better avoid it, and the late chinese made ones have prism mirror flaking issues. if you want to go the meme camera route, then look for models with the AOCo badge stamped on the prism housing front, those are the early japanese models.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 000052.jpg, 416KiB, 1478x1000

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 05:49:04 No.3473085 Report

Quoted By: >>3473088 >>3473092 >>3473159 >>3473213

Shot with my Canon sureshot 80 tele
Pretty amazing for a shitty $5 pns. Surely as good as any $600+ Contax. Why the fuck would anyone pay that much.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 05:59:13 No.3473088 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473085
What are you? Poor or something?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO camping12iso400.jpg, 2MiB, 1733x1068

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 06:01:31 No.3473092 Report

Quoted By: >>3473105

>>3473085
I sort of feel you, but most zoom p&s's are a shit

I have a hard time telling shots taken with my yashica T4D from canon sureshot max.

as long as it has a prime glass lens, its probably aight, no need to pay meme prices

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 06:19:20 No.3473105 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473092
If I can add my 2 cents, I have an Olympus Stylus that I picked up for $10 and it has been absolutely fantastic. I know theyre way overpriced online, but theyre not uncommon to find in thrift stores and other second hand shops for a few bucks

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO ContaxTVSTmax400-0176.jpg, 443KiB, 1000x680

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 09:24:50 No.3473159 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473085
>Surely as good as any $600+ Contax
Nah senpai

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 11:55:11 No.3473195 Report

Quoted By:

Did the FED-1 ever have a model with a 35mm viewfinder built in instead of a 50mm one?
It seems like my viewfinder has the same fov as my 35mm slr lens...

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DtZdQQf-.jpg, 76KiB, 1024x768

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 12:18:52 No.3473199 Report

Quoted By:

Anyone have a sauce on straps for the Polaroid SX-70? The problem with the strap lugs on the SX-70 is that they aren't the universals size most camera have, they're a lot smaller.
I know mint sells original leather straps but I have a white SX-70 so it'll look stupid and shipping to my country is $30.
https://mint-camera.com/en/shop/accessories/Neck-Strap-brown/

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 12:53:12 No.3473210 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472511
BUMP
I wanna know too. C'mon Brisbane anon where are you?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 8AC1AB30-0A49-4308-95E7-FDB8761F (...).jpg, 228KiB, 1000x750

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 13:03:07 No.3473213 Report

Quoted By: >>3473220 >>3473236

>>3473085
>6mp scan

If you're just shooting film for small prints and web posting, you're right the SureShot is great. However, those Contax memes will make beautiful 20x24 prints. Your SureShot images will start falling apart at 8x10.

Do most Contax shooters print that big? No...but acting like you can make the statement you are with your little low-red lab scan is pretty lol anon

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 13:33:36 No.3473220 Report

Quoted By: >>3473224

>>3473213
Film stock affects resolving power and sharpness more. Imagine buying an expensive Contax and shoot cheap fuji 400 or kodak colorplus and expect to blow it up to 20x24 lmao

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 13:57:52 No.3473224 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473220
while you're right, some cheap film stocks are surprising. Kodak Gold is wildly sharp for the price. Have a 12x18 from printed made with the Zeiss 45mm Planar and Gold 200 that looks crazy good

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 14:00:57 No.3473226 Report

Quoted By: >>3473270

>>3472850
>>3472854
>black borders.
are you just after a border, ot are you trying to get more of the film rebate / filed neg carrier look?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 14:05:53 No.3473232 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472982
minolta SRT

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 14:08:33 No.3473233 Report

Quoted By:

>>3472721
done by a small local lab and they use a noritsu scanner, not sure what model

i do a small amount of color correction in lr

giannis

giannis Thu 02 May 2019 14:16:59 No.3473236 Report

Quoted By: >>3473424 >>3473427

>>3473213
>Contax memes will make beautiful 20x24 prints.
doubt.tiff
20x24 is 6 times as big as 8x10.
That means, to have comparable quality, the lens used for the 20x24 has to be around 2.5x the resolving power (lp/mm) of the lens used for 8x10.
The tessars are fine for what they are but after all they're just 5-element 4-group tessars, and even if they reached over 100lp/mm, the sureshot would need to be less than 40lp/mm for your statement to be true.
I doubt prime lens compacts from the '80's are doing less than 50-60lp/mm at least.

And anyway that doesn't account for film grain, which becomes an issue for 35mm on enlargements larger than 8x10, unless you're using t-grain ISO100 or microfilms.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190501_213750.jpg, 4MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 15:58:27 No.3473270 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473226
Just black borders. With a mask I can frame as I need and then print. I've been turning on the room light but I'm pretty sure this is what is causing the soft edges. When I removed the neg carrier and use white light from the enlarger that created a sharper edge as the mask casted a shadow. Though there was to much hassle having to keep inserting and replacing the neg carrier and then reframing the image. I think I'm going to make a paper flasher, but blast it to max black. Hmm, maybe save that for next month.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 22320028.jpg, 802KiB, 796x1200

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 17:39:01 No.3473322 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471851
I picked up an F100 last year, so I could use it with my Sigma art lenses, and and I haven't regretted it for a second. I just used it for an engagement shoot (along with digital), and got a few really nice shots out of it.

This was with the Sigma 85 1.4 Art and Portra 400

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_7296-1.jpg, 718KiB, 1080x1280

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 20:43:03 No.3473412 Report

Quoted By: >>3473482 >>3473504

thoughts on kodak gold vs. colorplus vs. ultramax?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 21:18:55 No.3473424 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473236
>That means, to have comparable quality, the lens used for the 20x24 has to be around 2.5x the resolving power (lp/mm) of the lens used for 8x10.
Not necessarily.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 21:43:21 No.3473427 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473236
who said anything about tessars? The contax cameras have Sonnars.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO minolta_af50_big_finder_date_35m (...).jpg, 33KiB, 640x640

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 22:45:34 No.3473459 Report

Quoted By: >>3473507

I've found a Minolta af50 big finder for 20 eurobucks and a yashica minitec for 38.

I've been looking for a comfy compact to carry on on trips and stuff, which one should I cop? Or none?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO edit-032-18#033.jpg, 147KiB, 1000x667

Anonymous Thu 02 May 2019 23:56:26 No.3473482 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473412
Gold and Ultramax are grainy at boxspeed. Colorplus is less grainy and pushes well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:03:05 No.3473485 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471889
If you're going to go with MF, the GM670 is a pretty cool bet, as long as you're interested in buying into a system, and you consider the cost benefit with scanning fewer frames at higher quality depending on what kind of setup / lab you use. Personally it doesn't make sense to get anything less than 16 frames from a roll. If interchanging lenses doesn't matter to you and you'd rather have more frames than less, you should get one of the Fuji GA645's.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:26:49 No.3473504 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473412
grainy and soft compared to fuji but imo more pleasing colors.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:29:09 No.3473507 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473459
just saw a thrift store camera challenge on youtube and the big finder took some of the nicer pics https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZnmt6nKqqI

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO nh5jeO8O_400x400.jpg, 39KiB, 400x400

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:36:23 No.3473511 Report

Quoted By: >>3473515 >>3473561

can someone recommend high end film stocks at ASA 800 or above? getting tired of shooting C200

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:41:51 No.3473515 Report

Quoted By: >>3473520 >>3473822

>>3473511
shoot portra 400 @ 800 with no push. you can't even see a difference

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 00:48:06 No.3473520 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473515
not a fan of portra

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Superia800-0010-7.jpg, 533KiB, 1000x680

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 02:16:59 No.3473561 Report

Quoted By: >>3473614

>>3473511
Superia Venus 800

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 03:18:03 No.3473614 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473561
thanks anon, havent heard of that film yet. ordered a roll. Anything else?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO konica17burgwk.jpg, 2MiB, 1542x1054

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 03:38:46 No.3473623 Report

Quoted By: >>3473637

not high end, but kodak 500t is decent pushed to 800

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 04:22:15 No.3473637 Report

Quoted By: >>3473693 >>3473732 >>3474242

>>3473623
its called cinestill anon

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 05:55:28 No.3473693 Report

Quoted By: >>3473732

>>3473637
My hands are black from remjet

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO muh bass.png, 1MiB, 661x966

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 06:35:58 No.3473712 Report

Quoted By:

Took this snapshit on C200 with my Pentax P3n

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO MX6S0232.jpg, 198KiB, 1500x1000

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 07:22:53 No.3473717 Report

Quoted By: >>3473722

This camera is worth next to nothing on ebay.
As far as I can tell it's in perfect condition.
I don't shoot film at all.
Don't know what to do with it.
Don't want to just throw it away.
hmm.

ac !!0MBiaHXsm+t

ac !!0MBiaHXsm+t Fri 03 May 2019 07:30:10 No.3473722 Report

Quoted By: >>3473757

>>3473717
I've seen people rip out viewfinders and attach them to smaller cameras. Also there's the classic external flash trick.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 08:46:29 No.3473732 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473693
Kodak 250d is the film of the gods
>>3473637 is a faggot

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 13:19:16 No.3473757 Report

Quoted By: >>3473798

>>3473722
real ac is !!hMB1p2jaDAI

fuck off and stop trying to single-white-female other tripfags, chosis.

g2anon

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO foma_089.jpg, 201KiB, 821x1000

g2anon Fri 03 May 2019 15:00:21 No.3473779 Report

Quoted By: >>3473780 >>3473806

Can someone tell me what happened here ?
ga645 Fomapan200 e.i. boxspeed hc-110
full aperture mode
iam guessing it's the fixer ??
fix'd 3:45 min with t-max fixer
some images are okey on the roll though
but some look like this...

g2anon

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO foma_083.jpg, 220KiB, 809x1000

g2anon Fri 03 May 2019 15:01:26 No.3473780 Report

Quoted By: >>3473806

>>3473779
and here's one that looks better atleast..
those are on the same roll of film

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 15:25:35 No.3473786 Report

Quoted By: >>3473787

Is HC-110 a good developer for pushing both t-grain and "classic" grain films? How is it compared to Xtol?
I've only ever used Xtol and I'm getting kinda bored of it would like a change it up a bit.

g2anon

g2anon Fri 03 May 2019 15:33:07 No.3473787 Report

Quoted By: >>3473818 >>3474453

>>3473786
i think ilfotec and rodinal are better than hc-110 for pushing...what i heard... i like hc-110 as standard dev but that was it

/\M8U5H !!ZJJCB8MGiVB

/\M8U5H !!ZJJCB8MGiVB Fri 03 May 2019 16:09:37 No.3473798 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473757
this enrages the tripfag

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 16:35:21 No.3473806 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473779
>>3473780
Your fixer is duff and/or you need a longer fixing time. Re-dunk and re-wash for proper results.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO finalllllly.jpg, 34KiB, 457x610

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 16:39:18 No.3473807 Report

Quoted By: >>3473824 >>3473843 >>3474218

after nearly 3 weeks of waiting my lens finally showed up. gunna go shoot a quick roll!

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 17:03:40 No.3473818 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473787
at most I can only handle rodinal at 1:50 for like 100 speed 120 film, 1:50 for 400 speed 120 film. I can't do 1:25 at any speed and I can't imagine any dilution PUSHED, especially on 35mm...

>CRISP'D TO HELL

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 17:05:53 No.3473822 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473515
DONT do this. All color films need to be over exposed by at least 1 stop at all times

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 17:10:32 No.3473824 Report

Quoted By: >>3473843 >>3473866

>>3473807
How is the overall feel? Do they feel cheap?
Been interested in one for a while but leica fanbois keep putting doubts in my mind.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO color-skopar.jpg, 558KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 17:59:57 No.3473843 Report

Quoted By: >>3473866

>>3473807
quite a nice lens and decently sharp wide open, enjoy
>>3473824
nothing wrong with it, the build quality is obviously not on par with Zeiss or Leica but it is in no way cheap or poor. The optics are good, I find they have a sort of Nikon feel to them.
I pretty much only use mine on my Ricoh now since I got my Summaron, I prefer the Leica lens on film but it's single coating makes it poorer on digital.

35mm Color Skopar f8 - overcast

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Summaron.jpg, 459KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 18:04:02 No.3473844 Report

Quoted By:

early 50s Leica 35mm Summaron f3.5 single coated at f8

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20190503_191701.jpg, 2MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 18:24:29 No.3473852 Report

Quoted By:

Found another use of my enlarger. Time to get scanning. I'll drop some pics soon.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Color-skopar 2.jpg, 586KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 18:41:53 No.3473861 Report

Quoted By:

2 more the sun came outish
Color-Skopar

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Summicron 2.jpg, 522KiB, 1280x960

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 18:43:06 No.3473862 Report

Quoted By:

Summicron
I know the pictures are not the best but they are just for comparison and straight out of the camera

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 18:47:04 No.3473866 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473824
Feels pretty great to be honest. Build quality feels on par with my Canon F-1.

>>3473843
Definitely enjoyed my first outing with it. Will probably post some scans from the rolls tomorrow.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Test1c.jpg, 991KiB, 1820x2424

Anonymous Fri 03 May 2019 19:51:40 No.3473911 Report

Quoted By:

first test and what a ball ache. printing is much more fun than scanning.

hoohoo

hoohoo Sat 04 May 2019 06:13:08 No.3474149 Report

Quoted By: >>3474150 >>3474218

>was set on purchasing a Mamiya 645 on eBay
>Walk into the camera store the other day
>See a yashica mat 124g, ask to handle it
>look through the ground glass, immediately fall in love
>now I don't know what to get

RRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

hoohoo

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Portra 400 May 2018 (35 of 37).jpg, 1MiB, 1188x1791

hoohoo Sat 04 May 2019 06:14:16 No.3474150 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474149
Forgot my photo

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO picture-01_noexif.jpg, 289KiB, 800x600

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 06:15:58 No.3474151 Report

Quoted By: >>3474155 >>3474218

Just how bad of an idea is it to use rodinal for everything? I have two litres of the stuff and have been using it for pretty much everything. The grain is noticable but I never find it crazy.

Pic is kentmere 400 @ 3200 semi stand.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 07:24:10 No.3474155 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474151
I prefer D-76 because smoother grain and classic tones but Rodinal is good, just different. If you like Rodinal look, price and convenience of course you should use it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Bessa 002.jpg, 1MiB, 800x1200

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 13:40:26 No.3474218 Report

Quoted By: >>3474220 >>3474512 >>3475026

>>3473807
Bessa dude back with a scan from yesterday. Think I'm really going to like this Color Skopar lens. Can't wait to shoot some slide with it.

>>3474149
6x6 is betterest than 645

>>3474151
I did it for years. Mostly shooting Arista, Tri-x, and Acros. Worked well for me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 13:44:39 No.3474220 Report

Quoted By: >>3474224

>>3474218
What is your scanning setup anon?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 6189BDE9-4C66-49D9-8124-8DB7370A (...).jpg, 47KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 13:56:02 No.3474224 Report

Quoted By: >>3474240 >>3474356 >>3475026

>>3474220

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 14:17:02 No.3474240 Report

Quoted By: >>3474241

>>3474224
What about the light source? Also, are you inverting manually in photoshop or are you using some sort of plugin?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 14:25:19 No.3474241 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474240
the window is the light source and i've made PS actions for each emulsion i shoot that does the inversion / correcting. let's me batch edit rolls in minutes

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 14:33:52 No.3474242 Report

Quoted By:

>>3473637
hurr hurrr hurr

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Bessa 001.jpg, 1MiB, 1200x800

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 16:32:18 No.3474293 Report

Quoted By:

another bessa frame

Mirv !!z4UbsTdD2IT

Mirv !!z4UbsTdD2IT Sat 04 May 2019 19:36:44 No.3474356 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474224
Damn, that is slick

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_5911.jpg, 1MiB, 2104x2607

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 20:08:06 No.3474373 Report

Quoted By: >>3474382

Anyone know if this battery compartment is corroded? Zenit TTL - PX625 Battery

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 20:17:17 No.3474378 Report

Quoted By: >>3474379 >>3474734 >>3474749

wait so are you guys saying you can't even check if the photos you took are on focus/correctly exposed?
holy fuck

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO LQB.jpg, 16KiB, 600x600

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 20:25:17 No.3474379 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474378

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 20:36:59 No.3474382 Report

Quoted By: >>3474390

>>3474373
yes, the battery has leaked but don't worry. simply clean the contact and you're good to go.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 21:04:21 No.3474390 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474382
sweet ty

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 04 May 2019 22:22:16 No.3474425 Report

Quoted By:

what is the best way to scan 110 film?

giannis

giannis Sat 04 May 2019 23:05:15 No.3474453 Report

Quoted By: >>3474494 >>3474512

>>3473787
>rodinal are better than hc-110 for pushing
What would lead someone to believe Rodinal is even remotely suitable for pushing? Is it the stand meme?

Rodinal is not designed for T-grain films, Rodinal is not designed for fast films (faster than ISO100), and it's not designed for pushing.
So you want to combine all the 3 counter-indications? Go for it, you'll get "something" it's not like developing your negatives in piss.
But it's gonna be really suboptimal.

Rodinal is a surface (accutance), speed losing developer, that is designed for slow, cubic grain films. Ideally you'd be shooting something like PanF+ at ISO35 or FP4+ at ISO80 and developing in Rodinal. You wanna do TMax 400 pushed to 1600 in it? Go for it and show the results.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 00:01:41 No.3474494 Report

Quoted By: >>3474512 >>3474513

>>3474453
>Rodinal is not designed for fast films (faster than ISO100)
I do most of my developing in Rodinal 1/50, it works great with HP5 and FP4
I also have the remains of 3 bulk rolls of Delta 100 that I was given for free. I push that shit to 400 all the time.

I aim for a high contrast grainy look which it seems to do a pretty good job of.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO edit-006-2019 (4).jpg, 242KiB, 1000x667

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 00:15:37 No.3474512 Report

Quoted By: >>3474564

FP4+ Biogon 35mm f/2

Went overboard with post sharpening.

>>3474218
>Think I'm really going to like this Color Skopar lens.
That's because it's lovely. Tiny, light and a joy to use. Result are always good.

>>3474453
Exactly what I thought when I read that.

>>3474494
It gives blotchy grain with both of these,but especially HP5.

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO TriX800_ (32).jpg, 466KiB, 1184x793

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 00:16:27 No.3474513 Report

Quoted By: >>3474528 >>3474564

>>3474494
>I aim for a high contrast grainy look which it seems to do a pretty good job of.
That's ok if you're going for that look. But usually the goal is normal-low contrast negs, because they're easiest to work with in the darkroom. You have the most detail for dodging and burning, and you can always increase contrast with contrast filters when printing. Same goes for scanning, those scanning makes easier to work with difficult negatives.
And same for grain. Unsharp mask in the darkroom (or condenser enlarger), or sharpening digitally.

Anyway, for me the easiest developer to work with, with *any* film (slow and fast, cubic and t-grain, pushing and pulling), is XTol.
Very good grain and contrast, especially when pushing. (for me, good contrast when pushing = normal contrast).

>picrelated is TriX at 800 in XTol 1+1

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 80680002.jpg, 645KiB, 1200x795

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 00:41:44 No.3474528 Report

Quoted By: >>3474530

>>3474513
Also, to illustrate the difference, here's some Delta 3200 developed in HC-110 (i.e. a bit less grainy than rodinal).

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Delta3200 (9) affinity.jpg, 269KiB, 658x1000

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 00:42:51 No.3474530 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474528
And here's some Delta 3200 in Xtol.

Both pics resized with the same sharp algorithm (non-separable Lanczos).

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:11:57 No.3474538 Report

Quoted By: >>3474554

Where can I but B&W chemicals cheap?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:30:44 No.3474554 Report

Quoted By: >>3474555 >>3474556

>>3474538
the grocery store

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:31:52 No.3474555 Report

Quoted By: >>3474616

>>3474554
seriously?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:32:13 No.3474556 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474554
:^)

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _1008295.jpg, 204KiB, 949x1093

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:44:05 No.3474564 Report

Quoted By: >>3474571

>>3474512
>blotchy grain
not really
>>3474513
>you can always increase contrast with contrast filters when printing.
sort of
I usually shoot with either a dark yellow or orange filter, and print with a 3.5, or 4 filter. I find that this works better for me because it gives the flexibility of going way up to a 5 or down to a 3.

sorry for the bad photo of a print, hp5 120, Hasselblad 80mm

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO _1008294.jpg, 357KiB, 1266x901

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:46:36 No.3474565 Report

Quoted By:

delta 100 (pushed to 400 maybe? I can't remember), Leica IIc 50mm Summicron

giannis

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Delta6400_ (32)_deep-red.jpg, 433KiB, 1200x821

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 01:51:55 No.3474571 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474564
>I usually shoot with either a dark yellow or orange filter, and print with a 3.5, or 4 filter.
Yeah, same as me.
That's why I prefer (relatively) flatter negatives. I don't like flat prints, but to get punchy prints the easiest way is to start with (relatively) flat negatives.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO macro1.jpg, 333KiB, 908x1364

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 01:58:31 No.3474577 Report

Quoted By:

detail

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO detail2.jpg, 424KiB, 1365x911

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 02:00:35 No.3474580 Report

Quoted By:

I quite like the grain in this one

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 02:32:02 No.3474614 Report

Quoted By: >>3474632

Today I bit the bullet and bought a Minolta Dimage Scan Dual IV. Not gonna be the best quality, but better than my Epson 4490, and for only $100 I'm not to out of pocket.

Plus it'll help cut down costs at the local film lab. Next move will be to dev my own C41 and E6

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 02:33:17 No.3474616 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474555
Caffinol devving.

Or FPP/Cinestill's powder devs

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 02:49:08 No.3474632 Report

Quoted By: >>3474652

>>3474614
Gratz. not a bad little scanner at all, if I remember correctly they were on par with the Coolscan V ED

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 03:12:48 No.3474652 Report

Quoted By: >>3474661

>>3474632
Not what I've read. But it still gets good talk.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 03:41:29 No.3474661 Report

Quoted By: >>3474675

>>3474652
the biggest plus on the Nikon side is Digital ICE, however you have to be running OSX 10.5 or older, 10.6 will run the Nikon software but will crash if you enable ICE.
I Don't know about Windows, it was 95 and maybe 97 If I remember. But there is a patch to run Nikonscan on Windows 10.

You might run into the same issues with the Minolta. Vuescan will work but I never liked it, I find it clunky and doesn't always line up the RGB channels properly. Silverfast is great but expensive as fuck. Both will work on a modern OS

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 04:08:43 No.3474672 Report

Quoted By: >>3474685

Should I risk buying a camera on eBay or bite the bullet and pay a little more from KEH?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 04:19:40 No.3474675 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474661
I plan on using Linux and VueScan with the Minolta.

I have access to windows but that's on my power hungry, loud, and hot desktop. I don't need to be adding to this Arizona heat

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 04:36:24 No.3474685 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474672
If it's on ebay from japan they most likely have an unconditional returns policy.

They are safe to buy from

g2anon

g2anon Sun 05 May 2019 08:02:47 No.3474734 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474378
are you too retarded to focus correctly before you take a shot ?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 08:12:20 No.3474749 Report

Quoted By:

>>3474378
Imagine being this insecure.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 09:24:57 No.3474809 Report

Quoted By: >>3474821 >>3474917 >>3474926 >>3475132

Does anyone here have experience using a light meter app on iOS for metering slide film? Cherry trees are finally starting to bloom here and I'd like to use Velvia 100 (8 years expired, freezer-stored) to take some good exposures.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 09:41:49 No.3474821 Report

Quoted By: >>3474917 >>3475065

>>3474809
Light meter apps are really accurate and good for spot metering since you can digitally zoom. I've shot many rolls of Provia using one but now use a Sekonic for convenience

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 13:13:50 No.3474917 Report

Quoted By: >>3475065

>>3474809
I haven't had much success, the ones I tried inconsistently vary around a stop from my sekonic. but if >>3474821 had success, it might have been a better app than what I used. Might have to try a few apps to get a good one

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 13:55:07 No.3474926 Report

Quoted By: >>3474929

>>3474809
does your camera not have a meter? just use that

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 14:06:02 No.3474929 Report

Quoted By: >>3474931 >>3474981

>>3474926
The camera I'd be using is the Bronica SQ-A. I only have a WLF and plain prism for it, so no built-in way to meter.

giannis

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 14:18:11 No.3474931 Report

Quoted By: >>3475065

>>3474929
I found the apps accurate, but haven't shot slides in meterless cameras for some time, though I have some coming up from the lab next week so I'll update.

If you ever plan on getting a metered prism for the Bronica though, I can tell you even the simple, averaging one that I use on mine is perfectly accurate for slides.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 15:06:41 No.3474944 Report

Quoted By:

Got a Kaiser enlarger alongside a Kaiser Electric Timer 4211. Then timer doesn't seem to work. Anyone knows which fuse it uses? Guess one of these is the reason.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO VPS160_002.jpg, 1MiB, 1200x800

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 16:21:28 No.3474981 Report

Quoted By: >>3475065

>>3474929
Pocket Light Meter always matched my Sekonic when I was testing it. Used it for slides no problem.

Unrelated: Kodak VPS160 is beautiful film.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 17:28:45 No.3475026 Report

Quoted By: >>3475028

>>3474218
>>3474224
>all that for a shitty result
Not trying to be rude, but your digitizations are hideous. Not capturing 1/10th of the beauty of the film. Just spend $300 on a Plustek OpticFIlm...

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 17:31:04 No.3475028 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475026
lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 18:40:57 No.3475065 Report

Quoted By: >>3475085 >>3475100

>>3474981
>>3474917
>>3474821
Thanks for the information, I'll try the Pocket Light Meter app.

>>3474931
Which of the various metered prisms made for the SQ-A cameras would be the one to get?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1545983328315.jpg, 50KiB, 960x960

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 19:34:58 No.3475084 Report

Quoted By:

An analog thread ruined by digital onions boiz. FML.

giannis

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 19:42:23 No.3475085 Report

Quoted By: >>3475091

>>3475065
>Which of the various metered prisms made for the SQ-A cameras would be the one to get?
Budget and preference anon.
The simple one (that I have) is called ME finder S, it’s a centre weighted average meter with aperture priority and shows shutter speed in the viewfinder.

The newer one is called AE-I finder. It has centre weighted and spot, plus Ann exposure compensation dial on the prism, and a small switch for +0.5 stop compensation for quick use. And of course it does aperture priority too.

The exposure compensation is good to have, but if you have an SQ-i back, it has an iso dial and EV compensation on it, on the back and isn’t easy to access there, so the dial on the prism is redundant. If you are using the SQ-A backs, they still have an ISO dial but the way it sits on top of the back, you can’t turn it with the prism on unless you remove the back. Silly design choice.

That said, for me the most important thing was aperture priority, cause it makes shooting much faster. Spot would be nice, but I can work around it but setting my exposure compensation in advance, when using negative film. (For instance, +2 for strongly backlit shots, etc.)
If you can find the ME S quite cheaper, get it, you won’t be disappointed. If both are within $30 of each other, might as well get the newer AE-I one.

giannis

giannis Sun 05 May 2019 19:45:37 No.3475091 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475085
>and isn’t easy to access there
*and it’s easy to access there

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 20:00:32 No.3475100 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475065
add one more vouch for Pocket Light Meter. It is critical to meter for the shadows at all times though, and for color neg the the image preview it shows you basically needs to look overexposed on the screen

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Screen Shot 2019-05-05 at 1.16.3 (...).png, 266KiB, 2532x1446

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 20:26:20 No.3475113 Report

Quoted By: >>3475121 >>3475124 >>3475406

>TheDarkroom.com wants $215 for all of this
>I can do it for a 1/5 of the price

Would anyone who shoots color (or b&w, but mainly color) 4x5 be interested in having me develop their stuff for cheaper? I can prob do something like:

DEV only (shipping not included):
>1-6 sheets: $35 (total)
>7-12 sheets: $70 (total)
>pushing and pulling for FREE

and scanning idk yet, I could whip up something on the V700 faster, cheaper, and better quality than what they offer. But is it better for others to go there to keep them in business?? Idk

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO cross-eyed-steve-buscemi.jpg, 24KiB, 327x327

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 20:49:58 No.3475121 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475113
Then print your shit.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 20:55:50 No.3475124 Report

Quoted By: >>3475126 >>3475413

>>3475113
Yeah right, as if anyone is going to trust you to handle this.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 20:59:50 No.3475126 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475124
exactly. establish yourself first.

also Dwayne's is cheaper than Darkroom and have been around longer, if you're going to do mail order

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 4.12.121-1.jpg, 2MiB, 1500x995

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 21:04:17 No.3475132 Report

Quoted By: >>3475229 >>3475380 >>3475404

>>3474809
>Does anyone here have experience using a light meter app on iOS for metering slide film?

well i'm about to: running a roll of Velvia 50 through my Nettar folder using just a phone app. i've done about a dozen rolls of b+w and color film on a couple different cameras now with enough success to feel confident trying it. i'm on android though and using this app >>3472075

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 05 May 2019 23:20:06 No.3475229 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475132
This applet worked well for me back when I was shooting a Zorki 4 and metering with my Nexus 4. So a few years ago. It wasn't so well compatible with later cellphones, but if you've got good results in print film then give it a shot. Remember that cell phone sensors expose like slide film, so you'll be looking for the kind of view in the center sphere that isn't blown out anywhere.

Post results plz

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 00:25:03 No.3475262 Report

Quoted By: >>3475362

Does anyone know a good source of Pyrocat HD for Australia?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Pic.jpg, 381KiB, 2475x1615

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 01:03:59 No.3475281 Report

Quoted By: >>3475356

Hello frens.
I'm the anon that got the F-100
I got my first roll back and mustered up the courage to upload one of the worthy shots from said roll.
It's a self scan, it's a part of my city a little after sundawn.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 01:19:36 No.3475290 Report

Quoted By: >>3475292 >>3475378 >>3475480 >>3475510 >>3475784

What SLR should I get if I want something more on the compact side? Looking for something that will be really easy to throw in my bag for summer travel. I'm thinking maybe Olympus OM-2 right now.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 01:22:29 No.3475292 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475290
Canon A-1

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 03:35:46 No.3475356 Report

Quoted By: >>3475365 >>3475401

>>3475281
I actually have a question after reading Langford.
When focus is set to infinity, does the f-stop still affect depth of field? Maybe that's why some stuff in my pic is kind of not in focus?
I'm thinking because the shutter speed was low but I made sure to lean the camera to avoid noise, still it could have moved a little, but I wonder...

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 03:46:09 No.3475362 Report

Quoted By: >>3475382

>>3475262
Are you looking for the powder or liquid version? Couldn’t find either in Australia so your best bet is to order the powder version from the US. I’ve had no issues shipping Xtol to Australia off B&H

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 03:50:34 No.3475365 Report

Quoted By: >>3475379

>>3475356
Yup. Read this, and then there's an article linked in this about "hyperfocal distance" you should read.
https://digital-photography-school.com/maximizing-depth-field-without-diffraction/

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:12:46 No.3475378 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475290
Pentacks ME with the 40mm pankek

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:13:55 No.3475379 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475365
Thanks friend, everyday I learn more, starting this new week with Kodak Ultramax 400

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:14:13 No.3475380 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475132
>>3472075
Tried that app and it was completely off, but I think it has more to do with my phone's garbage hardware.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:18:48 No.3475382 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475362
I found liquid (with glycol) from Italy via ebay, this might be my best bet. Thanks for looking into it.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:23:38 No.3475387 Report

Quoted By: >>3475635

do you like my dog?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 04:59:46 No.3475401 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475356
yes, the f-stop does affect the depht of field even at infinity. with the 50mm lens even at f1.8 focused at infinity you should have everything from like 30 meters to infinity relatively in sharp focus (of course everything will be more crisp all over with a smaller aperture). everything closer will be out of focus.
pretty sure all those buildings are more than 30 meters away from you so they should be shaper. or maybe the scanner is making everything blurry.

here's a thing to consider, some lenses focus ring kinda go past infinity focus by a tiny bit, making everything go slightly out of focus. try backing it off a little to see if you get a sharper image thru the finder.

>I made sure to lean the camera to avoid noise, still it could have moved a little
sometimes pressing the shutter button introduce some shake. better use the self timer.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 05:14:25 No.3475404 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475132
Shot some Ektachrome using a retina II and an app for a meter. All of my shots were properly exposed. You should be fine

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 05:16:11 No.3475406 Report

Quoted By: >>3475413

>>3475113
Post some contact info. Im trying to get into 4x5, might send you a few once I finish my build.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 05:41:55 No.3475413 Report

Quoted By: >>3475639 >>3475845

>>3475124
>>3475124

I'm >>3472105
Literally all I do is put the film in reels, put it in my Jobo (grey thing in first pic), put chemicals in, and turn it on. It handles temp, agitation, dumping, timing, etc. I know theres a film dev place in Australia (racquetstudio on ig) where they solely use Jobo CPE or CPP machines (even less automated than mine). I'm not sure how they do it, they seem to get a good amount of volume. Anyways I'm not set on the idea, I just thought I would throw it out there.

>>3475406
calla.v.wright[at]gmail.com is my throwaway, email me on there and I've give you my info

pic related is some 120 size Ektar I pushed to 400 with my set-up. With Ektar the colors get really pastel when pushed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 11:27:14 No.3475480 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475290
Get a Yashica Fx-3 super 2000.
So much fun!

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 12:15:34 No.3475493 Report

Quoted By: >>3475522

going to check some wiki page, but off the top of your heads is there any nikon slr that has a side tripod mount?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 12:55:25 No.3475510 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475290
Ricoh kr 10 super + 50mm SMC f1.7

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 13:37:39 No.3475522 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475493
motor drive units usually have tripod mounts off-center

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 15:37:34 No.3475635 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475387
Young dog?
I like it

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 15:39:19 No.3475639 Report

Quoted By: >>3475710 >>3475711 >>3475845

>>3475413
I really like that look, going to try and push a few rolls whenever I buy some ektar packs again. dynamic range still looks more than enough. Didn't think the film would hold up that well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 17:19:36 No.3475690 Report

Quoted By:

Since HP5 is now too expensive for just casual snapping, I just got a 30m roll of Foma 200. Any protips on it? I shot ~6 rolls of it, and liked the results enough to decide to buy a whole bulk roll of it, but they were just box speed so I haven’t experimented with it yet.

Looks like it can get pretty grainy in HC110, but not bad. Didn’t scan the rolls I developed in Xtol yet, but it seems like it could be a better pick developerwise. Also want to try pushing it to 400 and 800.

I’ll still keep using HP5 for more important stuff but I want to see how the Foma works out. I’ve been very happy with their paper as well.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Mon 06 May 2019 17:34:01 No.3475699 Report

Quoted By:

LTM M39 Voigtlander Heliar 15mm? The Soviet Russar is 20mm and costs 200 bucks more.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 17:50:47 No.3475710 Report

Quoted By: >>3475845

>>3475639
here's another

yeah, it's definitely got a unique look. These I over-exposed by maybe a half-stop.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 17:53:20 No.3475711 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475639
>Didn't think the film would hold up that well.
The big difference between film and digital in terms of overexposure is that negative film handles it more gracefully.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 18:15:11 No.3475731 Report

Quoted By: >>3475786

HP5+ in HC-110 + Rodinal stand.
DR Summicron with close-up goggles.

giannis

giannis Mon 06 May 2019 19:20:51 No.3475784 Report

Quoted By: >>3475821

>>3475290
Your thinking is correct.
The Olympus OM-2 is the most well thought out system when it comes to compactness.
Because both the bodies and the *lenses* are very compact, sacrificing anything. They have great viewfinders, better than much larger cameras, good ergonomics with big dials, good metering with dual SBC cells and off the film metering (for slow shutter speeds and ttl flash), etc. etc. the list goes on.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:23:46 No.3475786 Report

Quoted By: >>3475809

>>3475731
Bretty gud

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:27:37 No.3475789 Report

Quoted By: >>3475809 >>3475811

Could someone post some colour scans from a plustek? I'm thinking about buying one but I haven't seen many example scans

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:29:27 No.3475790 Report

Quoted By:

Taking some time to clean the lenses while I can. Anyone else have a small arsenal of enlarging lenses?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:34:58 No.3475793 Report

Quoted By:

Show us your guns.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:36:33 No.3475794 Report

Quoted By:

What is up with this site?! Fml

Anyone else have a small arsenal of lenses?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:55:11 No.3475809 Report

Quoted By: >>3475810

>>3475786
thanks

>>3475789
Here you go, Portra 160.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:58:35 No.3475810 Report

Quoted By: >>3475816

>>3475809
Are you using Vuescan or Silverfast?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 19:58:51 No.3475811 Report

Quoted By: >>3475889

>>3475789
Hi anon I'm kinda sorta in your same boat.
Take a look at the Pacific Image scanners too, consider them, apparently they're better. Best on the market at the moment.

But I too would love to see some actual scan comparisons. Like VueScan RAWs of the same negs uploaded to google drive or some shit, so we could pixel peep.

I don't just wanna see somebody's over sharpened low res flickr upload when I'm trying to determine if a scanner's actually good, you know? Shit sucks.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 20:07:04 No.3475816 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475810
Silverfast with negafix profile. Combined with ICE, scans are useable out of the scanner. Haven't shot a lot of color recently. Here's some oof and pushed Colorplus.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 20:16:11 No.3475821 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475784
The one complaint I've got about my OM-1 is that it's a bit TOO big for someone with glasses like myself. I can barely get my eye close enough to see the full thing, and I've often got to wiggle my face around a bit to get a proper idea of the framing. This isn't all too bad for my style of shooting, but if you like to be quick it might be a pain

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 20:34:02 No.3475845 Report

Quoted By: >>3475854 >>3475875 >>3476061

>>3475413
>>3475639
>>3475710
so, when you say "push" color film, you mean just shooting it at a higher ASA, or actually pushing it during develoment increasing dev times?
I thought C-41 development was a standardized thing, with specific timings and stuff.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 20:40:29 No.3475854 Report

Quoted By: >>3475863 >>3475875 >>3475877

>>3475845
Pushing is shooting it at lower than box speed.
Pulling is shooting at higher than box speed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:03:44 No.3475863 Report

Quoted By: >>3475865 >>3475877 >>3476061

>>3475854
oh alright, I had it backwards.
then, how is the development part called? like when you shot BW 400 film at 1600 and increase the dev time.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:10:12 No.3475865 Report

Quoted By: >>3475877

>>3475863
>backwards
Very, very common mistake.
I've found it's easier if you think about it in terms of making the image (the image itself, not the negative) brighter or darker.
>brighter=push
>darker=pull
So in dev, you'd push by leaving it in longer.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:24:55 No.3475873 Report

Quoted By:

>>3471691
Why is all of that stuff in a fucking shower?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:27:34 No.3475875 Report

Quoted By: >>3475879 >>3476061

>>3475845
>>3475854
god damnit retards...pushing/pulling has nothing to do with how you rate your film.

intentionally shooting film below box speed is simply underexposing it.

intentionally shooting film above box speed is simply overexposing it.

pushing/pulling is a term used for developing and is generally done in combination with intentionally overexposing or underexposing film.

You'd never shoot portra 400 @ 200, develop as normal, and say you pulled portra. You'd say you shot it one stop over aka overexposed it a stop.

You'd never shoot Tri-x 400 @ 1600, develop as normal, and say you pushed it. You shot it 2 stops under. You'd say you pushed it IF you compensated for the underexposure in development.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:32:21 No.3475877 Report

Quoted By: >>3475881 >>3475901 >>3476061

>>3475854
>>3475865
WTF?!
Pushing = underexposing + overdeveloping to compensate ( = rating it higher than boxspeed)
Pulling = overexposing and underdeveloping to compensate ( = rating it lower than boxspeed).

>>3475863
>like when you shot BW 400 film at 1600 and increase the dev time.
pushing

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:34:19 No.3475879 Report

Quoted By: >>3475883

>>3475875
Oh look, people who literally make a living dealing with this don't follow your idiosyncratic rules.
https://thedarkroom.com/pushing-and-pulling-film/

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:37:05 No.3475881 Report

Quoted By: >>3475901 >>3476061

>>3475877
1) Shooting – Pushed/Pulled Film
To start, you will need a camera that allows you to manually change your ISO. When pushing or pulling you simply set your camera or meter to the desired speed (different than the film speed) and shoot the film as you normally would. Pushing film

Pushing film
Most common in low light situations the film ISO or speed isn’t fast enough to shoot at box speed or suitable handheld shutter speed. Increasing (pushing) the ISO a stop or two allows you to shoot at a faster shutter speed or with a smaller aperture to increase the depth of field. Pushed film has increased contrast in the lighter areas with minimal effects on the shadows. To preserve the details in the shadows, make sure to meter for medium to darker areas of the image.

If you have 400 ISO film and you set it as 800 on your camera, that will be a 1 stop under exposure. When you are finished with the roll, write “+1” on the film cartridge and the order form so the lab knows to push it a stop in development.

Pushing Characteristics: Increases film contrast, More grain, Lightens Image
When developed bright areas become lighter, but shadows stay more or less the same—increases the contrast and grain of the film.

Pulling film
While the pulling technique can be done on color film, it’s not recommended and it’s almost exclusively done with black and white film. Most people pull film in sunny, bright, or high-contrast light. Pulling decreases contrast, but brings out details in the shadows.

If you have 100 ISO film and you set it as 50 ISO on your camera, that will be a 1 stop over exposure. When you are finished with the roll, write “-1” on the film cartridge and the order form so the lab knows to pull it a stop in development.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:40:41 No.3475883 Report

Quoted By: >>3475885

>>3475879
>Pushing and Pulling is a technique of using a different ISO speed than what the film is rated for and can be used on black and white, color and slide film.

>black and white, color and slide film

Ya, sounds like they really know their shit.

Notice how confusing it is to refer to simply over/underexposing film as pushing and pulling? Then you need to ask did they push or pull in development to get the whole picture. That'd retarded.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:43:49 No.3475885 Report

Quoted By: >>3475888

>>3475883
>Notice how confusing it is to refer to simply over/underexposing film as pushing and pulling? Then you need to ask did they push or pull in development to get the whole picture. That'd retarded.
I agree with you that it's not the most efficient way or best way to talk about it, but the fact of the matter is that it's the way most people do talk about it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:48:50 No.3475888 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475885
Been shooting film since the early 2000s and have been in a lot of film circles and darkroom environments. Never heard it referred to this way until recently.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 21:52:20 No.3475889 Report

Quoted By:

>>3475811
Yeah I don't care as much about Dmax and stuff like that, I just want my colours to look good and without too much digital noise.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 06 May 2019 22:06:15 No.3475901 Report

Quoted By: >>3476061

>>3475881
>To start, you will need a camera that allows you to manually change your ISO
My camera has no meter.

>If you have 400 ISO film and you set it as 800 on your camera, that will be a 1 stop under exposure. When you are finished with the roll, write “+1” on the film cartridge and the order form so the lab knows to push it a stop in development.
Exactly what I wrote here >>3475877
Pushing = underexpose by X stops and overdevelop by X stops to compensate underexposure
Pulling = overexpose by X stops and underdevelop by X stops to compensate overexposure

Pushing/pulling are steps that happen during development. Still, you can plan either of these by intentionally over/underexposing your film while shooting it. If you do so, you rate your film at an ISO higher than boxspeed if you plan to push, or below boxspeed if you plan to pull.
Rating your film at an ISO different to boxspeed and developing it for boxspeed, results in your negatives being either under- or overexposed.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 07 May 2019 05:35:41 No.3476061 Report

Quoted By:

I'm this fgt here >>3475845 >>3475863
>>3475875
>>3475877
>>3475881
>>3475901
thanks for clearing it up. everything makes perfect sense now.
I was kinda confused with people saying they were pushing color film. I was under the impression that the c-41 process was standardized, with precise times set in stone, but it seems I can vary the developer time to compensate over/underexposure like with BW film.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 07 May 2019 07:51:24 No.3476115 Report

Quoted By:

*New thread*
>>3476113
>>3476113
>>3476113
>>3476113
>>3476113

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