>>3585421Probably worth 80-100.
You got a great deal.
This earlier version is looked for because it has huge sensitivity. It can meter from -5 LV to +24 LV, that's a *huge* range. To give you an example, -5 LV is the light you get at night when the only source is moonlight, and the moon is less than full.
16-17vLV is what you get in bright sun at midday.
Imo it's one of the greatest meters, and if you have no other meter, don't sell it, you'll regret it.
With attachments, it can do spot metering, flash metering, even an attachment for enlargments in the darkroom so you can get the print exposure right without test prints. There's even a colour temperature attachment, (expensive), that gives you on the back the suggested correction filters (and combinations of them), for each meter reading.
They have even crazier stuff like microscope adapters, bigger incident domes etc.
Also, since they don't have a microprocessor, and take a huge 9V battery, the battery lasts for ages (years).
In practice, I find these needle+dials meters more intuitive to use, since you can see all the settings/combinations at once. And also keeping the metering button pressed and swinging the meter around, the meter jumps around from -3 to +3, giving you a quick and visually intuitive contrast range of the scene.
About accuracy, modern meters don't lose accuracy. That was for selenium meters. After that came CdS meters, which don't lose accuracy, and later one silicon cell meters (SBC stands for silicon blue cell) which have even bigger sensitivity and wider ranges.
Your meter can be fully calibrated, by a small green button/screw on the back. Test it with an accurate meter (or digital camera), and if it's more than a stop off, calibrate it. Then it'll keep its calibration unless recalibrated.
Be sure to calibrate properly though, with an actual grey card and an accurate meter (could be the one in your camera) spot metering the card.
If it's less than a stop, let it be.
