>>3647772>Nope, that was ISO 200 unless you wanted excessive grain.iso 100 to iso 800 is two stops difference, anon. 800 is very usable in daylight, just not if you're a retard shooting a 50 1.8 wide open.
>grainif you're afraid of grain, you aren't shooting 35mm film period.
>Are you incapable of focusing a lens or hold it still enough for shutterspeeds longer than 1/1000 second?I'm not gonna explain the purpose behind hyperfocal shooting to a retard new to the hobby, that's google's job when you let down your defenses.
>I don't only shoot during the day, often during night as well wich is when an ISO of 800 or more is realy usefull.iso 800 is only two stops above iso 100, anon, it's not particularly useful for handheld speeds at night.
You're pretending here.
>Also shooting far beyond the diffraction limit makes little sense as it kills your image quality for no good reason.ImAgE qUaLitY is not always that important. Sometimes you'll shoot beyond diffraction limit specifically *for* a softened aesthetic. its less annoying than carrying around a promist filter.
>Most lenses are the sharpest stopped down to between f/5.6 and f/8, while at f/16 you lose a lot of sharpness due to diffraction.ShArPnEsS
A) Anyone that brings up hyperfocal shooting is most likely quite aware of where their lens' sweet spots are (and they do vary from 5.6-8 quite often, particularly in the digital era, because the sweet spot on FF is different than the sweet spot on APS-C)
B) most modern lenses are still quite sharp even past their diffraction limit, stop using vintage lenses if you're not actually trying to get a vintage look.
You're obviously still a beginner locked into a certain technician's mode of thought, and that mode of thought is increasingly dated for the same reason photorealistic paintings are no longer considered the peak of artistic expression.
iso 12800 these days performs like iso 1600 did 15 years ago, btw.
