>>3833252You do know Olympus has a Live Composite mode?
It takes 1 shot and then it adds light captured to that image.
I can get good results at ISO 200 that look great.
The fact that you have no understanding that I use film as a low light alternative is just sad.
Also...
>UWAOlympus 8mm fisheye and Laowa 4mm fisheye
>PortraitsPanasonic Lumix 42.5mm f/1.7, Panasonic Leica 42.5mm f/1.2, Panasonic Leica 45mm f/2.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.8, Olympus 45mm f/1.2, Sigma 56mm f/1.4, Sigma 60mm f/2.8, Olympus 60mm f/2.8, Olympus 75mm f/1.8. Also zooms like the Panasonic Lumix 35-100mm f/2.8 and the Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8
Also... Voigtländer 42.5mm f/0.95 and Voigtländer 60mm f/0.65.
>High ResolutionThis can be achieved through sensor shift, though this comes with limitations.
If you really need high resolution, get a Panasonic S1R, Canon R5 or Sony A7RIII. Or get some Fujifilm GX model, Hasselblad system or PhaseOne for the higher resolutions.
24mp FF cameras don't really have much of a perceivable difference compared to 20mp MFT.
>low lightVoigtländer f/0.95 lenses, and also an upcoming Voigtländer f/0.8 lens. Also, you can just bite the bullet, go up to ISO 3200 and just obtain DxO Photolab and use the DeepPRIME Noise Filter.
Or go to a slow shutter speed and use Olympus' industry leading IBIS.
My alternative is using a 35mm camera with something like Kodak TMax P3200. Kodak Vision3 based film is also a viable option for colour.
>AstroLiterally Live Composite. The E-M1 models even have an astrophotography mode.
And the reason I've never used a field camera is because they're massive and incredibly expensive.
Professional tourism photographers still use them for resolution that no CCD or MOS can even have.
