>>3835471I used Olympus' Live Composite. It's a bit different to Live or Bulb in so much as, the way it works is different, but what it does is that it captures an initial image and then captures subsequent exposures and composites those on top of each other.
This can let you have long exposures of about 30 minutes but without overexposing the shot. It's also very useful for other stuff, but I don't do that.
On most cameras, the Live Composite is the longest exposure setting in Manual Mode. Those cameras with a B (Bulb) on the mode dial hide Live Composite in there alongside Bulb and Live.
I have a picture I took of a stream at night that I've not yet post-processed, but it has the ND filter effect that many people seek out. Olympus gear is very certainly highly underrated for long exposures.
You should shoot those in raw, however, particularly because these shots can be very hard to get the colours right in. Especially if you have a stray cloud moving in a shot, it's going to be illuminated by light pollution. Setting the right white balance isn't all, but you may need to also work with hue shift to make stuff like landscapes or artificial light to look natural.
Especially with more and more led street lighting, there's no preset for that white balance, so it's best to just accept that the colours will be wrong until you adjust it. Skies can often look orange or purple due to high pressure sodium street lighting. This can be used for effect if photographing a distant town from a rural location, but if you're inside the town, you will need to find a good white balance.
