>>3874595>-1 EV autofocus.I.e., less light than you could reasonably be expected to be shooting film in in 2021. If light's that low, you're probably going to be shooting on a tripod, which means you also probably have the time to fiddle around with the autofocus until it finds something to focus on.
>+/- 5 EV in 1/3rdYou can just go full manual if you're that far off from the metered exposure.
>7 shot exposure bracketingIf you're shooting a fifth of the roll just to make sure you got your exposure right, you really ought to be shooting digital.
>Fancy tracking AF that works in single (continuous is less relevant, as you point out)Sports and wildlife are generally what you need fast continuous AF for. Everyone shoots those on digital these days.
> The 1/8000thOnly really useful if you do something like loading Delta 3200 for a sunny day at the beach and want to shoot with a narrow aperture.
To be clear, I'm not saying that all of these aren't *useful*, just that none of them are "$1000+ for a 35mm film camera" useful, in my opinion. And most of these things can be had in a very cheap used DSLR or mirrorless these days.
Like, you can get a Canon 7D for about $300 these days. It'll AF down to -0.5EV, it'll do +/- 5EV exposure comp. You don't need 7 shot bracketing because you've got an LCD on the back. It also has extremely fancy AF tracking designed for sports/wildlife/news professionals. It can also do 1/8000th if you need it.
It can also shoot ISO 6400, which is double the speed of any film currently available (or more, since P3200 and Delta 3200 aren't really ISO 3200) and three stops up from any color film. And you can see your photos immediately. And it'll shoot 8FPS without a bulky battery grip. And you can shoot all day and not spend a dime on film and processing. Etc, etc, etc.
The F6 is definitely the most advanced 35mm camera ever made, but that's like being the most luxurious horse buggy on the highway.
