/p/ - Photography » Thread #4339965

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/DIY/ Do It Yourself

fe2fucker Sun 21 Jul 2024 16:12:14 No.4339965 View View Reply Original Report

Quoted By: >>4340139 >>4340171 >>4342158 >>4342535

Olympus Foam Edition

Post your current/finished DIY projects and share knowledge and info.

I'm trying to fix this OM1 that I got yesterday, I already fixed the lens that refused to stop down. Some linkage inside had jumped out of place so that was an easy one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 21 Jul 2024 16:25:03 No.4339971 Report

Quoted By:

thread should have been called /saar/ - simple and advanced repairs
anway just cracked open the back of my D3 to clean under the screen. never could get it back to factory clean
D4 and later had the cover glass bonded to the screen underneath and never requires cleaning

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 05:54:29 No.4340139 Report

Quoted By: >>4340241

>>4339965
Remember to perform a diode conversion to get the lightmeter back to spec with SR/LR batteries. I use 1N6263 Schottky diodes.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 09:45:59 No.4340171 Report

Quoted By:

>>4339965
good thread
I was cleaning and replacing light seals on old Minolta SRT-101 but I just fucking realized this camera lacks picrel film spool element
how fucked am I?
where do I get this thingy?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 12:46:42 No.4340199 Report

Quoted By: >>4340260

DIY gore
tried gluing a rubber eyepiece on
turns out nothing sticks to silicone

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Mon 22 Jul 2024 15:14:32 No.4340241 Report

Quoted By: >>4340250

>>4340139
Thanks for the tip, I'll ask my dad if he's got any, he's an electrician.

I managed to clean the prism, now there are two lines where the lacquer coating ends instead of two large black splotches. Might get a replacement prism, might clean this one off completely and repaint it with Hammerite or something, we'll see.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 15:52:24 No.4340250 Report

Quoted By: >>4340288

>>4340241
Nope, just feather the paint with an IPA soaked q-tip. If done correctly you couldn't even tell the difference between it and a pristine prism when looking through the viewfinder.

Oznonymous

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Oznonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 16:10:27 No.4340260 Report

Quoted By: >>4340264 >>4340273 >>4342141 >>4342199 >>4342200 >>4342204

>>4340199
Completely rounded a screw holding my eyepiece rubber in. Thanks to using the shit chinesium screwdriver that came with the replacement and my inability to give up.

Short of drilling the screw out which I really don't want to fucking do, would anyone have any better suggestions? I can live with the current eyepiece; it might not be worth pursuing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 16:20:44 No.4340264 Report

Quoted By:

>>4340260
i have no suggestion but live with it, sorry. sure it sucks but if it works rn in its state, dont attempt a risky fix which may worsen the problem. Use the camera until said problem becomes a real problem which effects using the camera. I cut a pentax p30 focusing screen down to fit in my dslr recently and its got a little dirt in the split prism circle, im not risking taking it out unless necessary because it took 30 minutes fitting it in place due to my bad craftmanship cutting it. Its not pretty but it works , theres no need to worsen what already works like intended, despite its ugliness. if you had a lot of experience driling i suppose maybe, and if therese no voice saying bad idea go for it ? But i doubt thats the case.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 22 Jul 2024 17:00:46 No.4340273 Report

Quoted By:

>>4340260
Find the largest torx bit that will fit in the hole, then get the next size up and hammer it in (obviously not with a framing hammer or whatever, the handle of a full size screwdriver will probably work). Then apply some downwards pressure as you're unscrewing it, but also don't go full gronk because too much pressure just adds friction.

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Mon 22 Jul 2024 17:23:01 No.4340288 Report

Quoted By:

>>4340250
Feather it how? This stuff isn't dissolving in alcohol.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 25 Jul 2024 00:13:26 No.4341274 Report

Quoted By:

the M/A-M switch on my nikon 85mm 1.4G doesn't do anything. the lens autofocuses even when the switch is at position M. it's not my camera body that's causing it.
for sure it's better than the other way around but this isn't normal either.
ideas where I should start looking? the flex behind the switch looks fine.
"you should leave it alone" is also OK

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 26 Jul 2024 22:44:34 No.4342141 Report

Quoted By:

>>4340260
get an Allen key (hex wrench) that fits as tightly as possible in that screw head. mix up a dash of J-B Weld, the steel-reinforced epoxy that comes in two tubes you mix. drop the epoxy in the head then stick the key in there. hold the key in place for 24 hours then twist off. bit of a last-ditch thing to try, hopefully the epoxy is stronger than the thread glue.
yer gonna have to make sure that you don't use too much J-B Weld, because you run the risk of it spilling out of the screw head. then you'll have a bigger problem.

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 00:02:33 No.4342158 Report

Quoted By: >>4342173

>>4339965
Did you ever get any photos of the E2 battery pack?
I've finally got a heat gun.

fe2fucker

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fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 00:22:39 No.4342173 Report

Quoted By: >>4342187 >>4342191

>>4342158
Naw bro the pack is gutted. My friend built a custom batt out of the shell, however the damn thing still wont operate. Accordingly to the manual I need to replace a clock battery AND a "card battery" whatever that means and I can't find where the two batteries are. I've had the whole top disassembled but no batts are to be seen there. It's probably somewhere in the bottom but I can't get the battery release latch off.

I've just shelved the project for now, I can't be bothered.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 00:51:05 No.4342187 Report

Quoted By: >>4342189

>>4342173
the card battery is in the memory card so you're gon have to crack that open
the clock battery is probably on the mainboard like a computer's CMOS battery

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 00:58:51 No.4342189 Report

Quoted By: >>4342474

>>4342187
I've checked every PCB ontop of the camera, no batteries, probably in the underside.

About the memory cards, they're fully sealed, no way im getting those open.

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 01:00:26 No.4342191 Report

Quoted By: >>4342194

>>4342173
Did you find the clock battery?
Do you have any photos of the original pack internals or the new battery assembly?

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 01:10:47 No.4342194 Report

Quoted By: >>4342197

>>4342191
no pics of the batterys internals or the assembly, still dont know where the clock battery is

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 01:32:31 No.4342197 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342194
I consulted the manual.
"Card" refers to the lithium battery of an SRAM card being depleted, as the other Anon said.
If you're using a flash card (without a coin battery) that message may be displayed in error due to the dead CMOS battery.
The manual advises to take the camera to your Fujix dealer in order to replace it.
I'll have to study the camera further to figure out where it is.

Can you get some photos of the battery/parts?
I don't want to damage the unit I have.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 01:39:10 No.4342199 Report

Quoted By: >>4342200 >>4342204

>>4340260
>shit chinesium screwdriver
you need JIS drivers to work on cameras, not phillips

>any better suggestions
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 01:41:16 No.4342200 Report

Quoted By: >>4342204

>>4340260
>>4342199
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JCT3W0
also if those dont work for removing the screw, you can use them to slowly grind down the head, then hopefully there is enough of the stem left that you can use some needle nose pliers to remove it

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 02:04:07 No.4342204 Report

Quoted By: >>4342208 >>4342423 >>4342488

>>4340260
>>4342199
>>4342200
Moody's great, but Vessel's the best deal right now:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYV6PF6
They're also one of the few (if not only) making a 0000 JIS driver.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 02:10:16 No.4342208 Report

Quoted By: >>4342209

>>4342204
how bout Hozan?

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 02:19:46 No.4342209 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342208
I've never used Hozan, but they're supposed to be good.
Vessel is explicitly a driver bit manufacturer, though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 14:17:13 No.4342423 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342204
Rock hard rn, poast moar

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 16:52:19 No.4342474 Report

Quoted By: >>4342511

>>4342189
I am out of ideas without a service manual with regards to the clock battery
as for the PC-card, there "should" be a little cover that's one one of the short edges that hides a little button cell, picrel

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 17:06:31 No.4342488 Report

Quoted By: >>4342509

>>4342204
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYV6PF6
I worry about the longevity of those sliding rubber grips. You'll have a hard time getting a firm grip on the slick metal shaft after the rubber inevitably disintegrates. I use a Wera Micro screwdriver that's "optimised for Asian screws".

You have to understand that there hasn't been any "real" JIS screws for a while now. If you're working on a 1970s manual-focus lens then it has the old "real" JIS but no modern Japatronics uses that anymore. It's a new thing that's a fusion between Philips and old JIS heads.

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 18:20:45 No.4342509 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342488
>I worry about the longevity of those sliding rubber grips
The ones on the 0 and 00 are a bit too loose to use them to their full torque limits, but that doesn't prevent you from pinching the steel shaft directly, it's just less comfortable.

>Wera Micro screwdriver
I like Wera's stuff, but they don't make JIS drivers this small.
For larger sizes, you can just use Vessel's 1/4" hex shank bits in your handle of choice.

>You have to understand that there hasn't been any "real" JIS screws for a while now
I'm aware of the history.
If helps to differentiate by calling them JIS even if they don't fully conform to the last standard revision.
They're a lot closer to actual JIS than Phillips shit.

fe2fucker

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fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 18:39:38 No.4342511 Report

Quoted By: >>4342513

>>4342474
No there aint. There's an integrated battery that charges when its connected to the camera. At least the Nikon EC-15 is like that.

Anyway I got it working by dialling up the voltage on the battery, but it's not delivering enough amps to actually drive any of the mechanic stuff. Battery will need revising.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 18:52:56 No.4342513 Report

Quoted By: >>4342520

>>4342511
>No there aint.
well saar I am fresh out of ideas then saar
best of luck saar
>it's not delivering enough amps
maybe you could jerryrig a desktop DC power supply to the camera's battery connectors?

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:09:19 No.4342520 Report

Quoted By: >>4342528

>>4342513
Could, but I'd rather get the batt working.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:27:17 No.4342528 Report

Quoted By: >>4342529

>>4342520
didn't your friend rebuild the pack? did he use fresh nicad cells? same voltage/capacity?

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:32:01 No.4342529 Report

Quoted By: >>4342530 >>4342531

>>4342528
Its a custom meme with two lipo cells, a power inverter and usb-c charging.

Inverter isn't providing enough amperage.

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:34:44 No.4342530 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342529
Should have used Eneloops.
Any photos of it yet?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:37:45 No.4342531 Report

Quoted By: >>4342533

>>4342529
What are you working on anon I take it this project is from previous threads

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:47:11 No.4342533 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342531
Nikon E2S

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 19:57:49 No.4342535 Report

Quoted By: >>4342538

>>4339965
I've fucked up. I accidentally a flex cable on my Canon SX160. Now I play the neurosurgeon trying to replace flex with magnet wire harness of sort (and it should be fine since that flex doesn't move I think)

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 20:03:55 No.4342538 Report

Quoted By: >>4342560

>>4342535
it all started OK until i tried to clean off the flux and well, conductors fell off because they werent soldered.
No microscope sucks.

cANON

cANON Sat 27 Jul 2024 21:06:06 No.4342560 Report

Quoted By: >>4342574

>>4342538
Well done.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 21:23:58 No.4342574 Report

Quoted By: >>4342618

>>4342560
its not done yet, i fucked up have to do again.
Good part is that connector is standard and you can buy replacement flex on ali for idk, $2 a piece.
Bad news is that aperture flex is rare unobtanium so i'd have to invent something. But honestly, i got cold recently and i just cant solder shit im tired.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 27 Jul 2024 23:47:42 No.4342618 Report

Quoted By: >>4342678

>>4342574
>i'd have to invent something
depending on how complex the flex is, as well as whether it travels through some extremely tight gaps or corners,
you can bodge your own flex using 30/32AWG enamel coated wire and kaptan tape

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 28 Jul 2024 03:08:25 No.4342678 Report

Quoted By: >>4343435

>>4342618
That's exactly what I was thinking about. 0.09 mm enamel wire (idk if mm^2 or mm dia lol) and just patience to solder it, reinforce solder joint with glue of some sort...
Either make smth flex-like, or just bunch them up into a harness.
Flex does have couple bends and what not, but luckily it doesn't move when you zoom in or out.
Also flex is really thin and copper layer is also really thin.

But it's all my fault, I assembled lens assembly wrong and just cut flex in a spot, then i tried to fix 2 broken conductors (and set iron to 300C or so) but that didn't end well since kapton base became too brittle and just continued on breaking... And only later I figured out that 200C is enough for this thing. Oh well. Lesson learnt, not to disassemble lens assembly second time and not to rush.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 28 Jul 2024 22:38:43 No.4342916 Report

Quoted By: >>4342921

I don't have anything going on right now but this was the last thing I did, a Leitz 5cm/2 Summitar CLA

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 28 Jul 2024 22:41:50 No.4342921 Report

Quoted By: >>4342927

>>4342916
I’m tempted to buy one of the cheap “hazy/coating marks/dirty” summarits and give it a go at cleaning. Hard to take apart?

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 28 Jul 2024 22:51:18 No.4342927 Report

Quoted By:

>>4342921

Not really. The optics are split into two groups and once you split them almost everything is accessible. The problem is the coatings are very thin so you absolutely have to clean them with wet solution.

When you grease the helicoid also do the sliding tab too. The rear optic is a bitch to get out but its doable, the front one just unscrews.

When I come off the road I'm probably going to buy all the ones on eBay and turn them around for easy money. They aren't hard to service just don't be a retard

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Jul 2024 02:06:23 No.4343227 Report

Quoted By:

I just took apart my Konica auto-reflex because the film wind mechanism wasn’t working. Nice metal grinding feeling when turning it even lightly. Sure enough, brass gear with teeth shorn down to little nubs. Tiny gear smaller than the smallest coin with maybe 20 teeth. I’m a retard and didn’t think about photographing any of it or documenting until I saw this thread in the catalog lol. Would help too there’s practically no disassembly or instruction guides on this thing. Unless you guys have any hints if replacing such a gear is even possible, I guess the camera will have to be unloaded in a changing bag. A pain, but otherwise it still works. The meter seems fully functional, but the meter scale is de-silvered outside of f1.4, so it’s unusable in practice. But for a camera sold as dead junk parts, not bad getting it going again. I wanted one for the mid-roll full/hLf frame thing picrel

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Jul 2024 16:44:46 No.4343435 Report

Quoted By: >>4343436

>>4342678
Fuck me. Keep shits breaking.
Makes me wonder if flex just became brittle over time

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Jul 2024 16:46:24 No.4343436 Report

Quoted By: >>4343437

>>4343435
Soldered half of the wires. Thinner sense tracks are really fucking hard to solder on this thin flex (which i ended up factory removing)

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 30 Jul 2024 16:48:22 No.4343437 Report

Quoted By: >>4343939

>>4343436
Fuck i think i solder blob accidentally

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 01 Aug 2024 10:20:28 No.4343939 Report

Quoted By: >>4346770

>>4343437
Wait a fucking second, flex actually has to be flex and not bunch of wires anyway.
I guess time to design PCB that will fit there, and other thing is that 21 pin flex barely fits there, so maybe with slight dremelling of plastic it would work ok.

Is it worth it? No. Will I do it? Yes, because at this point there is no going back.
I wonder how many people have fucked flex in process... Maybe I should sell replacement kits? Or design? Or opensource it (well, just gerbers)?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 18:04:24 No.4345591 Report

Quoted By: >>4345608 >>4345614

My OM-1 jammed up on Sunday. I got the bottom open and everything down there looks right. Took an idler wheel off to check the spring underneath and it's good. Can't get into the top because I don't have the right spanner to disassemble.
Photographer family members are telling me to cut my losses and buy a new body. Please tell me it isn't like that, that I can unjam it myself.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 18:41:41 No.4345608 Report

Quoted By: >>4345613

>>4345591
In their day, these were known to chew up their own gears and have a life of 1000 shots in no small part thanks to mechanical timing. Buy an om2n.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:01:04 No.4345613 Report

Quoted By: >>4345615 >>4345622 >>4345623 >>4345665

>>4345608
Oh that sucks.
I don't want to buy something newer, I didn't even want to buy something from the 70s when I committed to this camera. It was just too intuitive to pass up.
Are there any common cameras from the early 60s that are well-renowned, if I'm going to spend that kind of money?

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:02:40 No.4345614 Report

Quoted By: >>4345616

>>4345591
there are no shutter related bits under the top so don't bother taking that off.

keep prodding around the bottom tho

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:04:18 No.4345615 Report

Quoted By: >>4345617

>>4345613
I should have refreshed before posting, anyway. The Nikon F and Nikkormat FT are two rly good 60's cameras for longevity

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:04:22 No.4345616 Report

Quoted By: >>4345620

>>4345614
Thank you boss. Where would you look first if you wanted this camera back up?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:07:22 No.4345617 Report

Quoted By:

>>4345615
And now I should have refreshed. Those Nikon Fs look very nice, I'm sure they feel nice to carry. If it comes to replacement, I'd rather have something older but stout. Thanks again.

fe2fucker

fe2fucker Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:17:06 No.4345620 Report

Quoted By: >>4345632

>>4345616
Usually when cameras lock up I poke at bars and ratchets with a small screwdriver while wiggling the cocking lever just to see what will move and what wont. You gotta visualize in what series all the parts are moving, then start moving them around slightly until you find the offending part.

Thats usually how I do it, its different for every camera.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:18:42 No.4345622 Report

Quoted By: >>4345623 >>4345632 >>4345634

>>4345613
>well renowned
Starts with L and ends with eica.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:22:36 No.4345623 Report

Quoted By: >>4345632

>>4345622
Ahahahahahahaha AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
>time for your yearly CLA and rangefinder adjustment

>>4345613
Time to take the Nikon pill

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:50:40 No.4345632 Report

Quoted By:

>>4345620
I've spent a little while wiggling and poking now. Everything is still jammed. When I put a little pressure on the advance lever, it might turn a cunt-hair, but it stops. There is something stopping it, and I can't find it in the bottom.
>>4345622
>>4345623
I'd prefer to just get my OM-1 working again, but if it comes down to it I'm open to Leica and Nikon. I'm short on expendable money, and it might be worth my time to get another Olympus sans-lens, just to keep taking pictures.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 19:56:16 No.4345634 Report

Quoted By:

>>4345622
You mean a Zorki 3

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 06 Aug 2024 21:14:36 No.4345665 Report

Quoted By: >>4345731

>>4345613
>that kind of money
And what kind of money would that be?
Buck the trend. Buy a Nikon SP Limited/S3 Year 2000.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 07 Aug 2024 00:36:17 No.4345731 Report

Quoted By:

>>4345665
>That kind of money
between $100 and $350. From what I can tell, a basic servicing for an OM-1 is about $350 before parts and labor for my situation.
If I wanted to spend $100, I could get a new body. If I wanted to spend upward of that, I want something far better than anything made in 2000.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 10 Aug 2024 05:43:46 No.4346770 Report

Quoted By:

>>4343939
god bless JLCPCB and their retardedly cheap costs. I'm still looking for an excuse to make a flex PCB at work but it hasn't come up yet. Update when you have something designed.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:28:37 No.4347005 Report

Quoted By:

This was a Nikkor AF-S 70-200 2.8 ED VR1 that developed a sticky aperture at Bonneville Speedweek.

Suspecting an actual aperture issue, I pulled the VR unit, that's the part on the left, and sure enough it was still sticking, so I pulled the aperture and figured out that the screws on the top plate of the aperture assembly were all loose and it was letting the aperture open past the limit of 2.8.

Once I rotated the plate back to the factory stop and tightened everything and applied 24200 Threadlocker, it is as good as new, at least mechanically. I also fixed the common sticky focus at 5m that all of these develop, was a simple loose screw. Some dust was beginning to get into the VR unit so I pulled all the elements and cleaned them.

Overall, a successful repair and it is back in front line service, just in time for Moab.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:30:21 No.4347006 Report

Quoted By:

The offending aperture, that's not supposed to be able to do that disconnected from the lens.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:32:52 No.4347007 Report

Quoted By:

Lens mount re-assembly. I actually didn't need to pull the mount but I did to look for dirt in the aperture lever and there was none. I used the dowel rod from a q-tip to align the mount, the spacers and the screw holes. Keeps the spacers from rotating on re-assembly.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:37:22 No.4347008 Report

Quoted By:

This part is a pain, three ribbon cables that plug into the VR unit from the top half of the lens. The middle one drives the focus motor, the small one works the switches on the side and the left one works the VR motor and tells the camera information about zoom setting and exposure stuff, basically all your EXIF data comes on that cable. They are cantankerous to get in and out and you have to do it with the two halves assembled.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:41:10 No.4347009 Report

Quoted By:

Once I got it back together and verified functionality, I applied a thin layer of helicoid lube to the tripod collar. This grease is already 20 years old almost, and while it's out, may as well. It's nice and smooth and this lens now is ready for front line service.

It looks a little rough, but its been around the country and seen some cool shit, and optically it's perfect.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:45:26 No.4347010 Report

Quoted By:

Next one off the docket, a D800, my D800, that almost lost the whole back half. At some point in this camera's previous ownership, it was dropped and the top of the back plate broke. Everything else was fine and screwed in, but metal fatigue set in and the whole assembly opened up when the hook on the end (you'll see later) caught my shirt and almost pried itself off the camera. The screen got damaged and on the salt, God bless technology, at the start line in the middle of a desert, I ordered a replacement assembly.

It was still usable and I put it back on with electrical tape, it's only stupid if it doesn't work, and it did, long enough to finish Speedweek and get it fixed. It is amazing the ribbon cables didn't tear.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:47:01 No.4347011 Report

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Screen damage

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:49:05 No.4347012 Report

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Old unit off. Great thing about broken shit, comes off easy.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:50:29 No.4347013 Report

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These are the two plates, the good one is on the left.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:52:12 No.4347014 Report

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New one going back in. I applied a small amount of e-tape to the smaller ribbon cable just to make sure it stays in. It's the smallest one in the camera and I don't want to take this apart again.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:54:27 No.4347015 Report

Quoted By: >>4347043

Once I verified functionality I discovered the original screw here bent and stripped the threads. It was still in when I pulled the old one, and was probably the only thing keeping the ribbon cables from breaking when the back came off.

I re-tapped it for a bigger screw and installed it, nice and tight on the first try. This is under the thumb rest.

Sugar !egyYvoBZV2

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Sugar !egyYvoBZV2 Sun 11 Aug 2024 04:55:46 No.4347016 Report

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The offending screw on the left, and the new one on the right. Everything was successful and both machines are ready for front line service at Moab, San Rafael Reef, Capitol Reef, and Monument Valley in a couple days.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 11 Aug 2024 06:51:29 No.4347043 Report

Quoted By:

>>4347015
>retaps a stripped thread with his eyes closed
Most retards here think their camera is toast if it gets a bit of seaspray on it. (wipe that shit off for real though).

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