>>4408837He is right you fag. Shoot film for the film itself.
>Unless you're shooting medium format as a supplement to your PAID digital work, you are shooting because of le vintage aesthetic.Oh yes everything has to be justified by being professional. Never spend a dollar that doesn't earn two, never spend a minute idle. Work and toil with all your being, work for the good of the GDP! Fucking amerisharts.
MF film (6x9) isn't even 50mp anyways, its just non-bayer so it looks a little sharper up close vs. SOOC digishit output. It's possible to over scan it with an a7riv+4 shot pixel shift. Some fag will now say its 150mp because they can zoom in and see the gaps between grains.
Shoot film to get a true to reality negative instead of fucking around with C2PA and raws so you can argue that its not AI - a negative is NEVER going to be AI. There is no projector tech that can outresolve film enough to hide the projectors image structure. Shoot film for the limited color gamut that extends further into saturated bight reds than digital sensors can (can't do saturated dark colors as well sadly). Shoot film for the natural grain. Shoot film for the tactile final product and the option of doing darkroom work.
Do NOT shoot film for the "retro larp". We got fujitrash for that. You will be disappointed after you have spent $2000 on gear, film, and lab fees for basically shooting jpeg with extra steps, because lab scans sure as fuck aren't film. They're crappy CCD scans with 6 stops less DR and 1/4 the resolution of what they're scanning. And definitely don't shoot it just to re-take the picture on an A7RIV or MFDB. That's fucking retarded. You need to get at least some value out of the physical aspect of the medium.
The shitty 1970s cameras aren't relevant to film at all. If anything, they make it worse. Add in being a lab scan shitter and you're just putting ttartisan crap on a fujifail with extra steps.
