>>4488263Correct exposure is correct exposure, no matter the camera. Assuming working light meters and non-tricky metering situations, if camera A says the correct exposure is EV 5, then camera B will say the correct exposure is EV 5 as well. How you expose for that EV is up to you- do you open your aperture? Your lens may not open far enough, and you may not want that shallow a DOF. Do you slow down your shutter speed? You may not have a tripod or image stabilization to prevent shake, or you may be introducing too much motion blur. Do you increase ISO? You may be introducing an unwanted level of noise. This is all science. No camera can magically produce a correctly exposed image at a light level of a given EV outside the constraints of the exposure triangle.
Here is what you CAN control:
Lens aperture. A faster (lower f stop number) lens can open up more to let more light in. Faster lenses are generally more expensive than slower ones for a given level of quality.
Image stabilization- this comes in three flavors: IBIS, which stands for in body image stabilization (stabilization of the sensor), OIS, which stands for optical image stabilization (stabilization inside the lens), or physical stabilization, such as mounting the camera on a tripod or setting it on a table or the ground.
ISO performance- different cameras exhibit different amounts of noise as you increase in ISO. Some look terrible by 3200 ISO, some can salvage something useful out of 25k ISO. This is another area where all other things being equal, high ISO performance can cost more. All other things are, of course, rarely equal.
Sensor size- this one is kind of adjacent, but it is worth noting that the size of your sensor has a practical effect on your depth of field. In general layman's terms, the smaller the sensor, the greater the depth of field for any full frame equivalent focal length, and the larger the shallower. I'd explain why and give examples, but post too long
