>>8522453I bought most of my stuff second hand since I know how to strip paint from minis and redissolve the bonds. Honestly, considering how bad some of the paint jobs were, I ended up only paying 30-50% of the original value.
Most of my other stuff is heavily kitbashed from the spare parts I get off friends for free. The creature in the included picture is an example of junk parts from their bins turned into something useable.
>And how much Nuln Oil did you need?I mix my own version from a cheap calligraphy ink, flow improver and some matte medium. For the same price of one of GW's 24ml pots, I can make about 10-15 times as much.
I also don't really use GW paints. My stuff is a mix of cheap hobby spray cans like Red Fox, craft store stuff for drybrushing and good, high pigment inks like Daler-Rowney and Liquitex, which act like a cheaper, more airbrushable version of contrast.
Paper clay is essentially a very soft, paper mache like material that's also lightweight once dried. I prefer it over regular clay since it's less brittle and you can use it as a gap filler or even to build mounds or large uneven surfaces to simulate the unevenness of real world soil. It's also cheaper per pound compared to teracotta, which is the standard air dry clay you buy from craft stores.
If you're really interested in diorama building, I suggest you look up how the model railroad guys and TTRPG guys who build battle boards.
