>>10643622Usually 15 to 10 seconds is all that's needed for even the most stuck joint if you just boiled and poured the water. As always go slow and work the joint back and forth until it feels like it's moving properly. Then you can try and pull the part off; Remember to always pull straight off.
The hands should be no problem; You don't even need to put the whole figure in, just the hands and past the wrist peg to soften things up.
I've never fixed any too loose joints. I've heard people use floor polish to tighten things up. Even super glue where you use a technique of applying just a tiny bit and continuously move the joint while it's drying. This causes the glue to just stick to the wall of the hole and head of the peg, instead of fusing them together.
For clothing, I haven't had any color bleed on actual hard plastic pieces. I also haven't had any problems with softer plastic, at least not the cast off parts from Queens Blade Revoltechs. And those are well over a decade old now.
For cloth, you do have to be careful with dye bleeding. The Figma Emily with Yukata was a nightmare. The robe stained any figure you put it on, and after washing it 3 different times with 3 different methods it still bleeds, and all I did was cause the red stripes of the belt to bleed into the white ones.
As for the heat gun, I'd think just a quick blast on the lower settings would be fine. When the repair man came over to service my refrigerator, he just used a hair dryer to dethaw the freezer. He said you can't use heat guns on the new models, because they're mostly plastic, and will actually melt the appliance. Older ones were metal and ceramic.
With that bit of knowledge, I decided just to stick to the hairdryer for now. I think you should be safe with your heat gun if you keep it at a temp where it doesn't feel like you're burning yourself if you put your hand in front of it.
