>>5750429Almost all the time. It's flexible enough when cured to maintain its shape in castings quite well, though its softness means it is a little crumbly when thin or narrow. Sands easy with fine and coarse grit sandpaper and files, drills easily, can even be shaved with a fresh hobby knife blade. Works great with silicone molds, though lightly powder the mold with simple baby powder for more intricate mold details like faces and such and really press it into there (helps reduce air bubbles). I don't recommend it for making tiny things like hands on a figma, and it needs at least 3mm thick walls around drilled holes to avoid breaking from tension and pressure.
You can actually make sockets for ball joints with it using regular Airsoft 6mm bb's (drilled and glued to a peg) or figma/hobby base ball-ends. Powder the ball and its peg with baby-powder, along with the surface of the un-cured epoxy after you've mixed and applied it. Press the ball in and pinch the sides of the epoxy around the ball tightly while it's still powdered, make sure to only let the epoxy touch powdered surfaces so it won't adhere. Wiggle it a bit to give it some range of revolving and squeeze around the ball again. Let it cure for about 2hrs. Shave around the peg's surrounding epoxy to give room to revolve around (radius and shape will vary for the part of the body such as shoulders, torso, etc), make sure to only expose no more than half the diameter of the ball end inside the socket leaving the lips of the socket thick enough to keep it in snug.
Halfway through the working-phase after you mix Plastic Weld, you can use clay tools to make details in the sculpt like fur, feathers, etc. and in molds you can warp it too if you hold it in place during the later working phase up into the first 15-20 of the curing phase.
