This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build starts tomorrow.
A helpful guide to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf Previous thread:
>>5242125
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
World War II Group Build
Anonymous
>>5256714 Are you the guy who built the Zoukei-Miura kits?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Anonymous
>>5256921 That's good to know, I would have been disappointed if he turned out to be such an attention seeking faggot.
Anonymous
>>5256930 >>5256827 That's me actually, not the OP though and I posted OP's image in the last thread.
I'm actually working on another ZM kit right now, their P-51D. It's an alright kit, not as good as Tamiya's 1:32 mustang, and it lacks a lot of surface detail that it should have, but at least they didn't go batshit crazy on the rivets like Tamiya did. Sometimes kits can be too accurate.
Anonymous
>>5256930 THIS DESU SENPAI
ignore atention whoring faggot OP and this fake thread
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5256941 The P-51 did have all those rivets. You are supposed to fill them like they did in WWII
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5256948 >>5256948 Stay mad in your 82 post thread.
Anonymous
>>5257433 what kit is this?
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5257433 The detail on that kit is very underwhelming for how new it is. I wonder how it compares to the Tamiya kit.
Anonymous
>>5257518 It's a Hetzer. The subject is not exactly brimming in details as it is.
I have the Tamiya version and the number of parts rivals their old Panzer II kit,
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5257451 sweet, I've seen this in my LGS and was wondering how it looks like. Glad someone is building it for the GB
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5257518 What this anon said
>>5257523 The kit fell together like a dream so far plus it's cheaper than the Tamiya one and comes with a photo etched grill.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5256832 I remember when my ex got me the 1/48th scale Hellcat.
I was so happy and at the same time, so sad.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5257606 I bought their 1/32 Bearcat when it came out. Rivets all over a seam welded fuselage...
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
LuckyModel is having a sale. They'll add new items throughout the month. They also offer discounts on total purchases. I picked these 2 up.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Progress on my t-62
Anonymous
Anonymous
How do you replicate sag with vinyl tracks? The anon making the T-62 reminds me of my main gripe with old Tamiya kits.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
SU-100 progress.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5257972 >>5258027 I believe you can use thread to achieve a sag effect, but it's fiddly.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Replaced lifting handles in gun mantle with tin wire and gave the mantle mr. surfacer treatment for molded steel look.
Anonymous
Currently trying my hand at painting faces with eyes on 35th Italian infantry. So far I'm only happy with one of the four. Anyone else working on figures?
Anonymous
For those with the Hetzers, please post pictures of the assembled running gear without wheels and pictures of both sides of the wheels.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5253594 Fenders and mud flaps are attached; still need to add the weld seams.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5253594 Fenders and mud flaps are attached; still need to add the weld seams.
Anonymous
>>5258135 I'm working on some American infantry. I'm still pretty new painting figures/ models and I think its going well so far...
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258254 Oh god I just realized how bad that gun looks. Shit.
Anonymous
>>5258254 I'm new to figures too, I'll try to post pics later.
How's the head going?
Anonymous
I started on this one today, painted for about half an hour on and off. Sorry for the shit quality, the camera ran out of batteries before I could take the perfect shot.
Anonymous
>>5258258 I decided to leave it alone for now, been looking up new ways of doing them. Here some old ones I did, the guy on the left is complete crap, something went wrong with the paint and I clumped it. All these guys are not anything good, but I hope to improve them in the future.
>>5258273 I've read up that there isn't much need to put the whites of the eyes due to the scale. But anyway, that's just what I've read.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258273 Looks really good though.
Anonymous
>>5258323 I agree about eyes, but they add visual interest, and as this is a new moulded figure for 2015 it had eye detail on the face.
My advice to you would be to thin your paints, and when you paint skin use a fresh piece of foil as a palette (This prevents dust getting mixed with the paint)
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258331 Thanks for the tip, I will do that next time.
Anonymous
>>5258170 Haven't built the suspension, yet. Not gonna glue it in place until I attach all the stuff to the hull.
Anonymous
If I'm painting desert yellow-beige-ish, can I get away with primeing black? I've ran out of white primer.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5258382 That suspension is depressing.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258620 I prime with black Mr. Surfacer Finisher under everything but white.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5258848 It's solid one piece, wrongly shaped, lacking details, etc.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258848 The wheels and running gear are wrong. Tamiya, despite being older, is still the best Hetzer kit.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/tamiya/tam35285d01.htm Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5258852 It can be easily detailed. I don't care about the suspension because it'll be covered by the wheels anyways.
Anonymous
I got bored, so I'll finish it later. Progress so far.
Anonymous
this is a fake thread.
the real thread is here.
>>5242265 Anonymous
>>5259135 How so? :)
Btw. Revell 1:72 T-72M1 is a really versatile kit. I recommend it for anyone who is looking for some nice quality with small money. Alex Clark has build some nice variants with resin conversion sets of his own.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5259237 Love his work. Those 1/72 T-72s look better than most 1/35 ones.
Anonymous
>>5259551 I love how there has been an sudden influx of cold war era armor models lately instead of random Tiger I variant #350.
There is a big chance of getting new release of early T-72 variants to replace dated and somewhat inaccurate Tamiya model (read at armorama about 180$ worth of aftermarket parts just to fix it)
Anonymous
Fucking lost a part and now I have no motivation to finish the damn build.
Anonymous
>>5259689 What kind of part may i ask?
Anonymous
>>5259689 What part? What build?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5259610 It's great that we're finally getting cold war era armor kits. But kits these days are getting more and more expensive.
Also would it hurt Trumpeter to make some new rmsh tracks for T-72? Their T-72B costs around 60 euros and it still comes with the old tracks.
Anonymous
>>5259695 >>5259709 Tiny ass tie down for a fuel drum strap. No chance of getting a replacement.
Anonymous
>>5259726 Scratch build? Are you the guy who's building Zvezda's su-100?
Anonymous
>>5259734 No, and it's so small it will be hard to scratch build.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5259736 What model are you buolding? Pics?
Anonymous
>>5259237 The Revell T-72M1 is pretty shit actually. The turret shape is completely wrong for a T-72M or M1, the gunner sight is completely solid, the gun barrel is far too thin, the roadwheel indentations are incorrect, the glacis plate is 2-piece instead of 1 piece. Its otherwise ok.
Alex clark is a fucking wizard who casts his own shit (those models are 90% handmade) so its hard to compare him to the average modeller and he only used the revell T-72M1 because for a long time it was the only 1:72 T-72 on the market
Modelcollect (new chinese company) makes way better T-72s compared to revell, but there are still a few problems
t. slav armour autist
Anonymous
Quoted By:
also the Zvezda 1:72 T-90A BTFO every other 1:72 T-90A on the market right now
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5259883 Good stuff, i stand corrected , i just remembered it having crazy crispness for a small inexpensive kit, didnt realize it had such glaring flaws
Anonymous
>>5259057 Why do you do your wheels silver?
Anonymous
>>5260117 I ran out of white, but it ooks cool, I guess. Also, thanks to the anon for the thread tip to replicate sag, it really makes the tank look better.
Anonymous
>>5260265 Maybe purchase some paint for you next project?
Also, I've never actually tried the thread tip, I saw it online (coincidently on a review of a tamiya t-62). But looking at your results I'd definitely try it.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5260304 Yeah, I really need to be more careful with the amount of paint I use, maybe replace my current airbrush with an actually decent one.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
lhs had these sitting on the clearance table. Never built a 1/72 tank before but after opening them up I'm impressed by the amount of detail in each. Going to try to finish at least one for the group build.
Anonymous
I want to buy a model tank, I'm confused about brands.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5260929 There is no best brand. Find a subject you want to build, look up the kits available, and make your decision. Not spoon feeding you, lazy dumbass.
Anonymous
>>5260929 Tamiya makes the best BT-7s.
Anonymous
1/48 P-51,1/72 B-17f here. I decided to splurge a big and tackle the Hasagawa P-38. The reviews often say there are fit issues so I guess I'll find out about those. I've done the Revell "Marge" p-38 twice as a kid and haven't done a P-38 since. Still on the fence about the Eduard PE set.
Anonymous
>>5261318 Iirc the Bt-5 kits are all pretty old and not really that good. Tamiya has released BT-7 recently and if you want to go special snowflake They also released kit of BT-42
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5261351 It's a bear to build. It's an older kit, but still the best P-38.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5261357 Also, need to add that scalemates is a pretty good site if you need to find information about different kits and whether they exist at all
https://www.scalemates.com/ Anonymous
>>5256714 mods delete this
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5261872 Fuck off to your shitty slow thread
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5261872 Are you triggered?
Anonymous
>>5261872 Best we can do to piss off the shitter is to have an good and active modelling thread with some nice content.
I cut off the "mesh" like plastic off the SU-100 rear hatch and intend to replace it with some metallic Eduard 6x6 mesh I have lying around. I might have to redo the supports around the mesh too if i cant fix it up nice enough.
And seriously, this plastic cracks in the weirdest places and very easily, but when you have to cut some plastic off its like the hardest soviet bakelite you can find.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262005 Nice work, I look forward to seeing this one finished.
Anonymous
>>5262005 I was faster than I expected. looks a bit shabby but ill rethink it after some mr. surfacer, I mean the meshes in these things really werent in best condition after usage.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262078 With armour, especially WWII armour, being a little scrappy is fine.
Anonymous
Going to start this for the group build.
Going to be able to finish probably 1 more from the backlog, and I'm having a tough time choosing. Gimme a hand here MSG:
http://strawpoll.me/5911757 Anonymous
Even though I started it almost a year ago, maybe I'll contribute to the GB with my Sturmtiger if it's allowed. I'm making progress again and I hope to finish it soon(ly).
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5262182 If you build the Sd.Kfz.7/1 Flakvierling 38, I might build mine too.
>>5262186 It's fine. I don't really care.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
I think I'm going to build one of these for the GB. My mojo's been on a pretty severe decline for a while now and I need something simple that allows me to get to the part I actually enjoy (that being the painting) as quickly as possible.
Anonymous
Potentially silly question, but I can't find an answer anywhere.
Anonymous
>>5262470 generally its red oxide, the only real match for this ive seen is white ensign enamel.
RN19 - Royal Navy WW2 Antifouling Red
tho a spray can of red primer can work if it s the correct red oxide red, and not just red.
see link
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/1/5/2/6/7/5/a4758855-107-001.jpg tamiyas hull red is wrong, its too dark.
so some mix their own lighter shade.
model master do an Anti-Fouling Red, cant find a good pic of that atm tho. that's acrylic.
I have a lifecolor kreigsmarine set and that uses lifecolours ua606 rot 5 sciffsbodenfarbe
I think the germans used their own shade of red.
just don't make it fire engine red, and don't make it gloss.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262501 Thank you.
I only have turino red and that rescue service orange-red and I wanted to avoid either.
Anonymous
You guys should post in the real thread and not this tripfags attention whoring circlejerk.
Anonymous
Why are there still 2 bloody threads? Why haven't mods deleted 1?
Anonymous
>>5262889 I don't know why the op started this thread when the other thread existed.
Maybe it was something to do with the group build.
Anonymous
>>5262546 How is this thread attention whoring? To be honest I see more modelling talk here than in the other one, and the funny part is that it seems the anon who started the "real" modelling thread with the "real" copypasta seems to be incredibly bitter about this whole thing. But yeah, we really should stay in one thread next time.
Anonymous
>>5262911 You can put your trip back on.
Anonymous
>>5262909 That thread was a duplicate thread created after the previous thread linked in OP because they left out the no Gundam rule and he got triggered and made his own thread. The only two people there are raging anti-gundam autist and shiftfag. This thread was created after the thread linked in OP went past bump limit.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262918 Hit the nerve, huh?
Anonymous
>>5262911 I`m the old op of these threads, I didn't start any of the three current threads.
I mainly post in the other thread with the correct op text, but I do come in this one and answer a few questions.
I don't really care about what other threads exist as people will go where they want.
>>5262546 I don't know who this anon is, his posting isn't really necessary but people are going to do what they want.
That's all I really have to say. Off to bed now.
Anonymous
Why are there three simultaneous threads dedicated to plastic models?
Anonymous
>>5262925 >This thread was created after the thread linked in OP went past bump limit. why tho? I mean, why do it again, create two separate threads?
why not just consolidate back into one thread at the time instead of separating again.
>The only two people there are raging anti-gundam autist and shiftfag only sith speak in absolutes.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262930 >I mainly post in the other thread with the correct op text >the correct op text You mean the poorly written one with the no Gundam rule? That triggered by Gundams?
Anonymous
>>5262936 >shiftfag shitposts again Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262932 Because the mods don't give a fuck and delete the reports instead of the threads.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262943 shiftfag actually writes original comments, unlike you. who just repeats the same shit over and over again.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262936 >why not just consolidate back into one thread at the time instead of separating again. Ok, let's consolidate into this one.
PanZerstorer !!u5lbjV80qYq
I decided to clean my workbench before starting anything else.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5263011 That's odd, my trip changed...
Testing...
Anonymous
>>5263011 are those mineshima's fine blade nippers
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5263096 No, they are Tamiya's Pointed Side Cutters. They work great. I also have a pair of Xuron's Photo Etch Scissors.
Anonymous
>>5263128 >Photo Etch Scissors Jelly
I have a pair of the Mineshima's, they look so similar.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5263135 They still look nice. And they use a spring rather than a leaf spring that so many tend to use. My previous two pairs were normal cutters with leaf springs and the springs broke on both of them.
For anyone planning to work with photo etch, Xuron's Photo Etch Scissors are well worth the cost. So much easier to use and you can remove parts with no tags to file/sand off.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Professional-Photo-Scissor-XUR9180ET/dp/B003XXU3GM Other good investments are a Tamiya diamond file and a folding jig. A folding jig is a necessity really. I have The Bug from The Small Shop. It's their second cheapest and a great value. They have larger jigs as well.
http://store.spruebrothers.com/category_s/2008.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=2008&show=100&page=1&brand=Small%20Shop Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262943 Who the fuck is shiftfag? Can someone explain this?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Time to start an experience in masochism.
Anonymous
Help me, I just ordered another one.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5263207 Ever use a Voyager set before?
Also, that set doesn't include the fenders.
Anonymous
>>5263219 Yeah I've done photo etch before. Not specifically voyager however.
The fenders are out of stock unfortunately. I put in a separate order for them
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5263238 You should be fine then.
One of the sets I want I can't find anywhere.
Anonymous
>>5263248 Hmmm, well a nice thing I've found about HLJ is that I think they go out and try to find items which are not in stock for some orders. For example, the T-34 track links in pic I did not expect to be in stock at all, but less than 2 weeks they had one for me. The item is still out of stock on their website
https://secure.hlj.com/product/KAZ30005/Mil Also another thing I've notices is that they lowball their shipping costs for bigger boxes. I usually pay around 5000 yen for a box, but sometimes when I receive it, they paid 7000+ and just cover the difference.
I use them lots.
Anonymous
Good to see the modelling guide in the OP, I remember for some reason people got really mad at it last time even though its a good basic intro.
Anonymous
>>5263544 One anon got mad. I'm betting its the one who always accuses people of being the shiftfag.
He's literally the scourge of these threads
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5263682 Nah, it's the raging anti-gundam autist.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5262889 Because they do it for free.
Anonymous
Who is shiftfag and what did he do?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Alright guys, I need some help.
Anonymous
>>5264193 here is my rule of thumb:
if you cant even find decent reference pics, then how the fuck is someone going to see your model and point out that the thickness of that specific plate is out. The only fucking person who'd know such a thing is someone who has seen the Sturmtiger in real life, and if that person judges you after you told him you had to guess the thickness because you cant see a real one, than that person is a huge cock.
Anonymous
>>5264200 >than that person is a huge cock when did that ever stopped anyone?
also, if you can't find reference pics it might be because you suck at search, not because there are none
Anonymous
>>5264200 >He has never won at IPMS Neither have I.
Anonymous
>>5264302 >because you suck at search, not because there are none I have several sources of ST pics, the problem is that I haven't found a pic that exactly shows how thick this thing is.
Anonymous
What brand of top coat and primer do you guys all use? I'm using Vellejo's white primer, but it always clogs my airbrush after about two minutes of spraying. And I'm using Createx's matte topcoat, but it comes out real sticky even after days of drying. What am I doing wrong?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5264332 Vallejo primer is awful. I use Mr. Surfacer Finisher 1500, usually black, sometimes gray, thinned with Mr. Levelling Thinner. It goes on easily and smooth without obscuring details. If the model has had lots of body work I use Mr. Surfacer 1000 first.
For clearcoats I've used everything from Lifecolor to Tamiya and Mr. Color with good results.
Anonymous
>>5264349 Ah, thanks, big help. I swear by Vallejo's model air paints, (Partly because they're one of the only model paint brands that consistently have Prime) so I assumed their primer was good, too, and it was me fucking up somewhere.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5264353 I use Vallejo for brush painting, but have never liked to airbrush it. It clogs airbrushes way too easily. I mostly use Tamiya and Mr. Color, and occasionally Lifecolor, for air brushing .
Anonymous
>>5264323 how hard have you looked?
does the thing you're trying to build exist in a decent museum somewhere? do they have virtual gallery? does the city where the museum is have a modelling club? does that club have a forum or some contact info?
with enough determination you can get pretty far with this shit (assuming it matters to you _that _much)
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5264332 Vallejo is fine just thin it 50/50 with Vallejo thinners.
only issue is sandability
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5264373 One in Munster and one in Kubinka. Neither of the museums are in my area, so I have to resort to pics and other shit I am able to find.
Meanwhile, I've decided "fuck it". I'll just approximate and make it look nice.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5264200 >shiftfag shitposts again Anonymous
Hooray for impulse buying sale items. At least they aren't expensive.
Anonymous
>>5265133 >23$ for the D7 Sheit. I live in Eastern Europe and here it costs around 30€. What gives?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5265257 It's on sale and the site is based in Hong Kong.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5264308 >implying accuracy means anything at IPMS They care more about how clean your build is, than accuracy.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5265872 Leopard 1 tarcks
Anonymous
Finally found some free time to continue working on my mustang.
Anonymous
>>5266024 Here's a comparison of the Tamiya cockpit that I build last year.
The detail is just so much more crisp, and they used a lot of individual parts to increase the overall detail.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5266030 The worst part is that Tamiya's kit is basically the same price as ZM's kit, yet it not only comes with a lot of photo-etch, but the flaps are workable, as well as the cockpit, which slides open and closed. You can also display it with or without the landing gear as it comes with a stand and the landing gear can be screwed on or off the kit. They use these magnets to cover up the engine as well, it's just such a better kit in any way. If you're planning on building a P-51D in 1:32 it's definitely the best kit to get.
Anonymous
>>5266024 >retard Rude, you ableist shitlord
Anonymous
>>5266036 I honestly have no idea how I typed retard there, I am baffled.. have no idea wtf I was trying to say in its place.
Still even though this kit is inferior to Tamiya's, it's still a fun build I guess.
Anonymous
Almost scared to post this here, partly because of the drama and partly because it's not very good.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5266038 >no idea wtf I was trying to say in its place. regard surely.
Nice Mustang by the way. I've always fancied a 32nd scale model. But I fear I'd dive in at the deep end with something like Revell's Ju-88 or He-111.
Anonymous
>>5263194 I'll have to find some reference material for the colors of the interior details. I already know the main colors from building 38(t)s.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5266242 Man, I don't even know who's trolling who any more. Too bad this board has literally the worst janitors out of any board.
Anonymous
>>5266282 We have janitors? Could have fooled me.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5266317 Yeah, they come in once every other day, delete fifty posts in the BST, and then go complain about nipples on /a/ with their work done here for the week.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5266174 Let's see if this is the right orientation.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Good job, lads. We passed the other thread in posts again
Anonymous
>>5266105 White looks better, imo. Can't say about the painting quality because the picture's quality is pretty shitty
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5266419 Started work on the interior today.
Anonymous
So I just started putting together my second model ever. I find that I am putting too much glue in places at time. Is there a simple way of removing the excess without it looking like absolute ass?
Anonymous
>>5266821 You can sand it. But the lesson is to not use to much glue, and literally every modeller will recommend Tamiya Extra Thin.
Anonymous
>>5266869 Extra thin is really good stuff, just has the tendency to evaporate rather quickly. For gluing of big, flat parts I use Revell glue.
Anonymous
>>5266997 Which is why you also buy Tamiya Regular Cement
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5266635 Alright, I probably will paint it back white. I thought it might have been too much yellow right from the beginning. I thought it might be too little yellow without it, but comparing it to her original gun, less is definitely more.
I'm not ashamed to say that painting quality is meh. I'm partly glad the pic quality is so bad since I just want color scheme advice and don't want to get ripped on for not being very good yet when I already know.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5266821 What glue are you using?
Anonymous
>>5266768 Da heck you working on?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5267858 Follow the trail.
Anonymous
>>5266869 >>5266997 >>5267092 Thanks guys.
>>5267779 Using pic related.
>>5267776 Why contain it?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5266821 No way to remove plastic cement while it is wet without making a mess of the plastic. Just sand the surfaces smooth and rescribe any lines if necessary.
>>5268100 That's the same as Tamiya orange bottom cement. Pick up a bottle of Tamiy Extra Thin to go along with it. Use the white bottle cement to attach large parts and the Green bottle cement for everything else. Apply the green bottle cement while the parts are attached or on both contact surfaces.
You want cement to ooze out of seams that you don't want to have gaps.
Anonymous
Made a little more progress. Need to finish up the gun bays, as well as some other minor detail painting followed by a clear coat of Future, then some washes for the interior.
Anonymous
>>5268225 Don't forget about the black anti-skid coating in the cockpit.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5268225 I hate painting, but love building, which is why I like complex kits like Bronco.
Anonymous
>>5268225 Interiors are where most of the details are. It's a shame that they are often hard to see, especially in bombers. Frankly I think masking canopies is the worst. There just isn't any quick and easy method to it. At least when detailing interiors, you learn about the plane and see details you might have passed over just glancing at a picture. Masking canopies is just tedious.
Anonymous
>>5268239 Eduard masks.
Or build armor.
Anonymous
>>5268233 Oh I didn't forget about it, in fact what I'm doing is using a wooden decal which I will apply after I future coat it, then I'm going to use some hairspray and do some simple chipping on the floor boards.
>>5268239 I don't really mind masking canopies. Luckily, ZM's kits do some with pre-made masks, but they don't include masks for the interior which is a bummer. I made my own masks for the interiors using Tamiya masking tape though.
The best way to mask canopies is to use small, thin strips of Tamiya which you can use for both straight lines and curves. When I say thin though, I mean really thin, like <1mm in thickness. Once you get those thin strips they are so easy to work around curved canopies.
That said, the P-51D canopy is really easy to mask regardless because of its simplicity. Now, those thick, multi-panel canopies that bombers have, those are a pain in the ass...
>>5268243 I second eduards stuff, though it is kinda expensive for what you get (~$10+ for something that would take you a few hours to do yourself). That said I've used them many times in the past and will use them again for more complex canopies. I just with Eduard and other companies would include interior canopy masks so I don't always have to make my own... The only company I know of that does make interior masks is Montex, you can get their stuff off ebay easily and they make a lot of great insignia and other markings masks that I've used a few times in the past.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268265 You can paint interior details by hand a lot quicker than it would take to mask them.
Anonymous
Finished the base for my syrian BMP-1 in 1/72. Already posted it without the base some time ago.
Anonymous
>>5268331 How did you make the base? Especially that concrete wall, looking good.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
The thread is pretty slow. Did the shitposters get banned?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268331 9/10 would look at again.
Anonymous
>>5268239 I use masking fluid, easier to apply especially to round shapes.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268331 Great. I really like it.
Anonymous
Has anyone here ever had negative reception towards their models? Snide remarks and stuff, or people judging you?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268913 My mom considered it a waste of money when i was a teenager, but since i moved out at my parents home i haven`t heard anything negative at all. Workmates and friends accept it as a hobby, one workmate builds rc-cars so he can relate.
My gf is indifferent towards my hobbies.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268368 it's just a piece of polystyrene covered with Fimo Air clay (but you can use any other stuff like Milliput). The base is just a piece of wood left from some project, with a layer of Fimo Air on top (this shit shrinks as it dries though, better use epoxy putty). Texture is Vallejo sandy paste, tiny stones and small cork pieces + lots of pigments.
Anonymous
Made some weld seams using styrene beams and Tamiya extra thin cement. The end result is that seams became pretty large in size, but since its large weld seams are my fetish i´ll let it slip.
Anonymous
I really want a Stuart in 1/48, or even one in 1/72, (not dragon though, not spending £20 on a 72nd scale model with about 20 pieces).
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5266242 nah this guy has been around in last thread or two, not a true. He is colorblind and gets more help here then on the shinki threads considering how few of them have a lot of modeling and painting experience.
>>5266105 You definitely need something other then white for the stock wire, but I think the yellow is too much. Wonder if a gray would work better then a black. Try adding a yellow stripe somewhere on the gun to break the mass of white up a bit more.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5269375 I personally haven't, but I saw a thread on /tg/ with a similar concept.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268913 No, most people are impressed by them even non-airplane people. I'm not friends with many rivet counters so if I make an inaccuracy, no catches it.
Anonymous
>tfw you buy a new kit when you're already working on something else and completely lose your desire to work on what you were currently working on
Anonymous
>>5269627 Stop. I already wasted too much money on this shit. Complete your started builds.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5269673 LuckyModel added more stuff to their sale.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5269627 I do that all the time. I haven't finished anything in awhile and have several dozen started kits.
Anonymous
So what is the best shipping method for lucky models? Paying like 90 dollars in shipping is fucking insane. Is the surface mail shit and will get everything wrecked or what.
Anonymous
Hi /toy/, /k/ here, can anyone help me find the model kit for this tank?
Anonymous
>>5268913 Honestly, only on here. None of my real life friends are into any sort of art, so they think anything is good. "Wow, I could never do something like that!"
But then I come on here with people who actually know things and get all the criticism I need.
Anonymous
>>5270262 That's really the value in 4chan, we're not afraid to tell someone that his works is shit and to an hero, helped me with my warham painting immensely on /tg/
Anonymous
>>5270400 Not as shitty as your English.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5270523 Yeah it's not an hero but an hiro now.
Also you belong in
>>>/trash/ Anonymous
>>5270523 Theirs no raeson to be upset, oh great angle of grammer and litracy.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5270090 I wouldn't know. I only buy 1 or 2 kits at a time and use air shipping.
Anonymous
>>5269049 beautiful cast work, can I ask your method?
Anonymous
>>5270209 http://www.hlj.com/product/wavpf-11/Mil gg, it's from so long ago, such a niche subject and from such a non rerun company, it will never see the light of day again.
Im so sorry anon.
Anonymous
>>5268811 I've tried mirco mask but got only okay results
what do you sue?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271150 I just dabbed Mr. Surfacer 1000 using old paintbrush on the places I wanted to have cast surface. You can get rougher results using Surfacer 500 but I dont have any so I used 1000.
This thread has good guide with pictures about 9 posts down.
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/114495.aspx Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271233 Sue Mr hobby I guess.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5268225 Man nice work, really enjoying watching this kit come along. Keep it up
Anonymous
>>5271162 USD $283.06; €263.54
HOLY SHIT WHAT THE FUCK
Also how did you know to go to that site?
Anonymous
>>5271162 >>5271281 Forgot to say thanks
[spoiler:lit]for crushing my dreams ;_;[/spoiler:lit]
Anonymous
So I've never built a model before, but I want to start, there's a specific model I'd like to build and I'm wondering how hard it is to get into the hobby.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5269101 >Ideally the 48th scale one would be done by Tamiya. I really hope they expand their 1/48 product line.
Anonymous
>>5271298 What is it? The hobby isn't hard to get into but it requires patience and some skill.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5271281 >I googled the E79 >went to the cached (now defunct) E79 wiki page >HLJ's site was there in the references. >>5271283 Im sorry anon
Anonymous
>>5271308 Sorry mate, but you'd be wasting your money. You will cock it up if you have no modelling experience. Takom kits are some of the most detailed and complex with loads of photo-etch. I would recommend you get some simpler kits done first to nail the basic skills, Tamiya kits are cheap and very good for beginners. I also know of a resin model t-14 which is far better suited for you.
Anonymous
>>5271314 Can you post a link for me?
Thanks for the advice, I'll come check the thread when I get home from work.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5270209 >>5271281 >>5271313 Oh it's okay, there's one going up for auction now..
http://one-jp.com/lot/u76772717 >Start price ¥63,000 $557 Fuck that noise
Anonymous
>>5271320 Thanks, would you recommend the T-14 or should I work on cheaper/easier models?
Anonymous
>>5271403 cheaper/easier. Make sure to post WIP.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5271405 One last question, where would I buy a Tamiya model?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271412 On the internet. Or in model shops.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271412 Amazon, Ebay,
1999.co.jp (for example since you posted a link to that shop earlier).
Anonymous
>>5270523 >>5270571 >And low, did I doest beholed an Angle of Litracy welding fourth a mighty wargrammer in one hand and bearing a dickshionary in the other. Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271412 Depends on where you live. You can buy online or in a model shop if you know one. I buy models in my lhs to support their business. The only kit I've ever bought online was Bandai's AT-ST.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271233 Revell Mask, dunno the name right now. It's good enough.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271298 >>5271308 >>5271317 >>5271403 Also, have a look at wargames models, they are very simple and easy.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
I'm tempted by Pegasus Hobbies' model tanks just because I like the idea of having a diorama with loads of tanks on it, or having a little squad of tanks.
Anonymous
Experimented with some AMMO stuff today. It's hard for me to not overdo it. I'm not done with it. What do you guys think? Any advice on weathering?
Anonymous
>>5271752 brush marks look too big to be in scale. I'd say use a brush half the size and you'll be ok.
Anonymous
>>5271752 Subtly is key. With WWI tanks you go big or go home, just look at some reference pictures to see what I mean.
Deadeye
I really want to build a T34/85. Whats a good kit out there?
Anonymous
>>5271797 Use Google, we're not here to spoonfeed you.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271797 Hobby boss has some great T-34-85 kits in 1/48 scale.
Anonymous
>>5271762 >>5271773 I didn't want to use my good brushes and kinda half assed it.
Removed some dirt with a stiff brush and added gun metal pigment on the left track. Does it look a little better now? How could I weather top of the hull and sides? Add some dust? I've yet to add some earth pigment(the stuff I used was enamel earth effects that I mixed with plaster of Paris).
Any tips on using weathering products? Should I add pigment fixer to all the mud?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271797 AFV Club makes the best 1/35 T-34s, but they come with vinyl tracks which are best replaced with indy link tracks.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271797 What scale do you want?
1/72: Dragon
1/48: Hobbyboss
1/35: Dragon or AFV club
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5271851 hurr durr I can't use google
Anonymous
>>5271852 If you're upset with anons talking about what model kits to reccomend you're just a selffish bully who doesn't like to share.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5271856 >selfish bully Nigguh, this isn't Reddit.
The guy was being a bit of an ass but seriously...
Anonymous
>>5271892 Don't worry, if someone uses the term 'spoonfeeding' they're from /a/ and can safely be ignored. Literally no other board cares as much as they do. And ironically, their hatred of spoonfeeding leads to far more derailed threads than if they simply answered when asked to spoonfeed. See this thread as an example.
Anonymous
>>5271902 no, they're from everywhere and are trying to stop the cancer of this generation. although in this case it was a bit unwarranted.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271918 if you don't like sharing your toys just leave anon. fuck off and play with yourself
Deadeye
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I know my hobby shop has the 1/35 Academy T34/85 but from reviews it has horrible tracks. Ill probably try my luck at my hobby lobby or online for 1/35 kits.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271946 HobbyLobby doesn't have shit for kits. Any military ones are very old kits they keep reboxing.
Anonymous
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5266768 A bit more progress on the 35 (t). The firewall has lots of tiny parts and the radio rack was a pain to build.
If you ever break a part such as one of the bars of the radio rack, don't use liquid cement to fix it. Liquid cement dries way too quickly on such a small contact area. It is better to use tube cement or regular Tamiya cement in the orange bottle as they dry slowler allowing a stronger bond to form.
Anonymous
Finished with the interior. It's hard to photograph, but I honestly think I did a pretty shit job with it. The shitty-molding and detail also didn't help.
Anonymous
>>5271835 >>5272066 That looks much better. Mud doesn't often stick to the tracks as well as it was in the first pic, it's better to just give them a very light layer / dusting.
Anonymous
>>5272221 Could have cleaned up the wash a little better too, but I'm really rushing to get this thing completed so I can move onto other kits I want to do.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5271445 kek, consider that idea stolen.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272221 >shit job U wot m8?
Anonymous
>>5272221 >>5272228 Nice! I see your point about the molding. Some of the switches look like they blend together a bit. Are the seatbelts PE? I like the anti-skid effect. It really came out well.
Anonymous
>>5272286 No they aren't photo etch, they are a set of HGW seatbelts.
Just about done with this for today. I don't know why I even bothered painting the engine since none of the detail will be visible.
Anonymous
so I mainly build 1/48th aircraft, but I'm looking for a 1/48th Panther Ausf A or D, but I really can't track much down. Am I just really bad at finding these, or is not much available?
Anonymous
>>5272584 1/48 armor is scarce. The only Panther I know of in 1/48 is Tamiya's Panther G.
Anonymous
>>5272584 1/48 is a very niche scale for armor. Tamiya is one of the only companies I know making 1:48 kits recently, and they only make 1-2 a year if that.
But if you want a really nice Panther A kit, Tamiya just came out with a brand-new 1/35 Panther D which is supposed to be a really nice kit, typical of newer Tamiya kits it builds up really easy and has the best molds in the business.
Anonymous
>>5272637 >>5272641 thanks m80s. I'll look into 1/35th then.
Anonymous
>>5272657 Also here's a website that really helps to find a kit you want to build. I use it anytime I want to build a particular subject to see what kit came out the most recent / read reviews.
Also as this anon
>>5272637 pointed out, Tamiya does make a 1:48 panther D kit and it's from 2005, so it's not that old and should be a quality kit.
http://www.scalemates.com/kits/114934-tamiya-32520-panther-type-g HLJ sells it for $15.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272657 Dragon makes both an A and a D in 1/35.
Anonymous
>>5272641 >want a Panther A? >here's a Panther D Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272801 I originally asked for either A or D, no biggie.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272225 Thanks. It's my first attempt at weathering. To me it looks okay-ish.
Has anyone got some advice on weathering sequences?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272657 Just get the Tamiya 1/48 Panther. Tamiya 1/48 tanks/military vehicles in general are great kits for a low price.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5272801 The differences between A and D are almost non existent and building either version is fine as long as you aren't a super serious rivet counter.
Ausf. G is where it looks really different. (The mentioned Tamiya kit in 1/48 has parts for early and late versions though. At least 2 different gun mantlets)
Anonymous
>>5272674 With shipping those Tamiya kits are around 20-22€. You can get them for the same price from ebay as well. Some kits from the line are super rare though. Panzer 3 N for example ;_;
Anonymous
>>5273323 I threw one of those away ages ago.
Anonymous
>>5273377 Why would you do that?
Anonymous
>>5273382 Didn't feel like scratchbuilding all the missing details and the tracks needed replaced, but there aren't any.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5273439 > $20 kit >rich What third world shithole do you live in?
Anonymous
>>5273480 I live in Britain, but no matter how rich I was I'd never just throw away a kit.
At least use it as an airbrush target or give it as a gift or something.
Anonymous
>>5273495 This. It could at least have ended as a wreckage in a diorama or simply sold at ebay.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5273564 It's a wasteful attitude that I see a lot of richfags display
Anonymous
>>5273323 >Panzer 3 N for example ;_; You mean this kit?
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/tam32543.htm Here you go senpai, found it for you $30.
Anonymous
>>5273609 Thanks, i appreciate your effort but ordering from the US is just to expensive.
Besides, retail price for those tamiya kits is around $13-17 + shipping from japan (sums up at around 20).
I guess i will just be patient until tamiya does another batch of the kit.
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10055266 Anonymous
Anonymous
New additions to the stash.
Anonymous
>>5273677 Are bronco kits worth the money?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5273683 Yes, they are highly detailed and (usually) accurate kits. Many people don't like them because of their complexity and very small parts.
>>5273677 Forgot trip.
Anonymous
>>5272354 So who's blog did you take the photos from?
Anonymous
>>5274126 Yes, because I'm lying about posting my own work here on /toy/ of all places.
Finished the exterior pretty much completely. Used milliput to fill in the numerous gaps. Really unsatisfied with the fit, there were a lot of quite large gaps that I needed to fill in, and the engine cowling pieces did not fit together well at all. As you can see, the engine is completely covered up, shouldn't have even wasted time painting it...
For painting I'm going to first spray it with a layer of Mr. Surfacer 1000 over the entire model, then I'm going to put a layer of Tamiya X-1 black thinned with lacquer thinner to ~20% paint 80% thinner. Once that's done I will let it dry for a day or so, then a layer of AK's Polished Aluminum metal effects. I'm painting it as the "Old Crow" which has an olive drab coat of paint on the top portion, and the bare aluminum on the bottom.
Anonymous
>>5274158 >replying to bait Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274213 >I will never be able to build like he does. >Better accuse him of being as incompetent as myself. Anonymous
>>5271835 Now it's finished. Any advice or criticisms.
Anonymous
>>5274158 Wait. Are you shooting for an accurate paint scheme? The Olive Drab Old Crow didn't have a bare aluminum bottom, it was neutral gray.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5274301 Yeah, you're right I didn't actually look at the color chart for the exterior colors yet. Hmm, honestly though that makes me not want to do that variant, I'd rather it have a polished aluminum appearance.
Anonymous
>>5274313 You can always do the latest colors though, full aluminum and OD anti glare panel. Does the ZM kit has multiple schemes?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274320 The paint instructions are only for the overall olive drag variant. Other options are Red Dog XII and Miss Marylin II. I think the options ZM included with their kit are all aircraft that are still flying to this day, which is a nice touch.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5258212 I formed the brass fuel tank straps around brass wire, drilled holes through parts D13 and D14 connected to the straps, and then inserted brass wire to hold it all together. It was a pain and took awhile.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274296 Looks great, the only gripe I have have is the muffler/exhaust I would have given it a little more texture to make it look more chipped/deep rusted.
Anonymous
Do Vallejo/Tamiya metallics/silvers/golds still require gloss black underneath? Or are they too opaque?
Anonymous
>WWII GB.
Anonymous
>>5274609 The reason I prefer a gloss coat underneath is because gloss coats provide a really smooth surface for a highly thinned paint like Alclad to adhere to well.
Tamiya paints though aren't really that opaque, I still like to thin them to about ~50% paint to 50% thinner though for airbrushing. No experience with vallejo metallics.
Regardless, I think it's best to spray metallic paints very thin, and build up the color with a few passes of thin paint over a gloss. Gloss black only if you want it really shiny, but just a regular gloss clear base otherwise.
>>5274620 Are you using wood grain decals?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274633 Nope, all oil colors. I do have a sheet of Uschi Van Der Rosten, no damn Idea why I went with oils.
Anonymous
>>5258323 >that rifle stance Fucking disgusting
Anonymous
>>5274744 Disgusting and historically accurate. Up until very recently, that's how soldiers were taught to shoot.
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-22-9/c07.htm Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274768 This isn't about the chicken winging it's about buddys stock basically being above his shoulder.
Anonymous
How much does all the shit you need for modelling cost? This looks cool but I read some of the PDF in the OP and it seems really, really expensive. I mean miniature drills and miniature saws and miniature vice grips and air brushes must cost a lot no?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
I preemptively made a new thread to try and avoid shitposting.
>>5274813 >>5274813 >>5274813 PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5274782 This hobby can be as expensive as you want it to be. You can model using just the basics or build using every tool imaginable.
I might try and make a photo guide of the various tools used and thier purpose. I'd start with my own set of tools which is around mid range.
Anonymous
>>5274820 Just so you know for next time, bump limit is 310, not 300. Honestly, you started a new thread so early that I thought it was another troll thread trying to start shit.
Anonymous
>>5274832 This is all very confusing, there's so much stuff and I don't know what's considered a necessity. Are miniature drills required? They seem really expensive and hard to find.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5274839 When did they change it to 310? And why?
I mainly made it ahead of time for a seamless transfer, before any troll threads pop-up. And to go to bed and not have to wait around till it's time to start a new thread.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5274848 You'll need miniature drill bits and a pin vise to use them in.
I highly recommend these as they are sharp, durable, and in metric. Almost all the hole sizes in instructions are in metric.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L6FNPCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1447132101&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=zona+drill+bit Any pin vise will do and some come with bits if you want to go the cheap route.
Anonymous
>>5274866 Oh man, I was hoping I wouldn't need them since I'm really poor and the dollar here has crashed like a mother fucker.
What are miniature dill bits for anyway? Could I just use the point of a knife?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5274907 For drilling holes; usually for locator pins.
While you can drill some holes with a knife, it can be dangerous, it destroys the tip of the knife, and you can't drill even, circular holes.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274158 Remember to fill in the panel lines on the wings whichever scheme you go for.
Pic related.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5274768 The guys in that guide use both hands to hold the weapon though.
Anonymous
I really wish I could set-up a spray booth where I live. I don't enjoy painting in the cold.
Anonymous
>>5275340 I don't use one, as I only airbrush model air paints.
Anonymous
>>5275340 What paint are you using? Enamels?
I spray acrylics without a booth.
Anonymous
I'm actually quite exited by some of Airfix's new releases. They've really upped their game in the last couple of years.
Anonymous
>>5275578 Yeah they've got some great stuff on the horizon and their recent releases have been pretty good too.
I'm made up that they've released a Whitley though how well that will sell outside of the UK I don't know, not hat I'm arsed. And their Shack looks great too (though I'm not a big fan of 4 engined aircraft as they take up so much room and the Shack in particular is a big boy). Given that It has stations for 10 crew and some pretty decent Internal detail I'd be very tempted to do a cutaway, once Eduard breaks out the etch.
As for future releases, I'm moving away from single engined aircraft in 72nd so their 48th Defiant and Warhawk have me just a little bit excited. I hope they continue the trend of upscaling their models and break out a 48th Whitley, 111 and 110
(though they need to fix the trenches they call panel lines on that one).
Anonymous
>>5275495 >>5275516 Enjoying those acrylic particulates in your lungs?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5275627 I smelled worse. I have no money for a paint booth or a respirator
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5275606 For me at least, there's a strong nostalgia with Airfix kids. It's a British cultural thing.
