This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others
The World War II group build is going on now and ends on March 31.
Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf http://www.scalemodelguide.com/ Previous thread:
>>5256714
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
World War II Group Build
Anonymous
Hoping for Tamiya to make a 1/32 P-38.
Anonymous
You'd think being a big company, Airfix could at least commission a decent modeller and get some photos for their website.
Anonymous
>>5275699 Here's another example of crap
Anonymous
>>5275699 >>5275700 Wow, kek, that is weak, incredibly weak. They didn't even build the kits properly, though not suprising considering Airfix is still selling kits with molds from the fucking 1950s to this day.
>>5275630 Same here, I would absolutely love to see Tamiya do a proper P-38 with full engine detail, full MG details, a great cockpit, etc. I think Trumpeter makes a P-38 in 1:32, but knowing them I am staying far away from it.
Other planes I'd like to see Tamiya do in 1:32 would be maybe a german aircraft, since they've already done allied and Japanese aircraft before in 1:32. Hell, maybe let them get crazy and give us a really nice 1:32 Italian aircraft, like a C.202 or a 205.
Anonymous
>>5275716 Thing is, while I hate how they rebox new kits, some of them build up quite nicely, like their Matilda. Still though,they make up for it with their new stuff.
Anonymous
>>5275693 There's that nostalgia element for me too.
I had a ceiling full of Halfaxes, Lancasters, Hampdens and Stirlings as a child. All Airfix, all terribly built.
I've only recently returned to the hobby and at first I ignored them as a company remembering raised panel lines, rivets everywhere and poorly fitting parts but since the Hornby acquisition they've really turned over a new leaf. I guess I should have done better research in to what the market was like.
Anonymous
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>>5275730 I still have the Airfix kits I made in my early teens, but Airfix is the company that really got me into models. I still buy Airfix, as the prices are dirt cheap for what you get.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>all these filthy brits
Anonymous
>>5275716 There is no market for a 1/32 202 let alone a 1/48 one. PCM did make a 1/32 one.
I'd like to see them release a 1/32 P-47. It's pretty likely considering they have multiple kits of it out already.
Anonymous
>>5275633 It's not the odor you should be worried about, it's the airborne particulates and it doesn't matter what paint you use. I wish I saved this one picture of his spray booth exhaust from using only acrylics.
Anonymous
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>>5275740 Yeah, I know there isn't and it really makes me sad. There are so few Italian WWII aircraft on the market, and most of them are shit. The 205 was one of the best fighters in the war according to many pilots that flew it, even allied pilots that tested captured ones.
>>5275719 I agree, at least Airfix is getting their shit together in the past few years and releasing new kits with great tooling. Not as great as Tamiya's tooling, but Airfix has definitely stepped up their game and came out with some good stuff.
Anonymous
>>5275747 This. No matter what you spray, paint particles are flying around the room you're painting. A proper spray booth has filters to capture the particles so they don't cover your furniture / table, etc.
Anyways, I decided to go with the Old Crow paint job. I'm honestly not sure how accurate it is though, I know there are P-51s flying today with this color scheme, but what I can't find out is if it flew with this color scheme during wartime? Can't find any photos of it.
What's strange is ZM clearly based their kit off of the currently-flying P-51Ds in these markings, but the cockpit included in the kit is all WWII, as today's flying P-51s have a lot of the WWII equipment and controls removed, specifically the fuel tanks behind the seat from photos I've seen.
I did do pre-shading though I'm not going to let much of it show through. I really only did it because I want some tonal variation instead of just a single flat color. I don't care if it's not historically accurate or whatever, I just like doing it for my own reasons.
Anonymous
>>5275825 All finished with the basic main paint work. FS 36440 on the bottom (flat gull gray model master) and FS 34079 on top (Dark Green model master). Found the right colors using a conversion chart.
Anonymous
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>>5275716 Revell do some pretty good German aircraft in 32nd so I hear. And they're significantly cheaper than Tamiya's offerings from my quick search, even if you add some Eduard AM to them.
>>5275890 You forgot to putty the wings silly.
Anonymous
>>5275890 >right colors No, they're the wrong colors. It should be the standard Olive Drab over Neutral Gray. Never looked at a WWII plane before?
Anonymous
>>5275890 Hey, I'm the guy who told you about the gray underside instead of aluminum in the last thread. This is the only picture I found of the overall green old crow.
Also
>>5275955 is wrong as old crow was painted like such in the field and used british colors readily available to them. So they did use Dark Green and any mix of greens they could find.
The Gull Gray may be a tid bit light, though.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5275981 That's a propagated myth that rarely happened. Even Bud Anderson, the pilot, said it was painted in Olive Drab.
Anonymous
>>5275985 And this is a photo of the survivor P-51C restored with original paint chips, this is Dark Green, same color used for the overall green P-51D.
Anonymous
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>>5275981 Thanks for clarifying. The reason I used the Dark Green color is because it matched on the color charts I used for paint conversions. I literally used the color recommended in the instructions, which was vallejo US dark green 71016.
>>5275988 Well I'm just going by what the instructions say to do, and honestly I'm really not that concerned about accuracy 100%, I'm just doing it for fun.
Anonymous
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>>5275988 It is not a myth if it happened. Even rarely means at a point it was true. Also this happened with P-51's and P-47's mostly as they were shipped to Europe in overall aluminum and later painted on the field.
Planes stopped being sent to europe in OD after 1943 when the USAF decided the paint shaved off 10 to 15mph, that's why you'd see so many B-17s, P-38s, P-51s and P-47s in OA by the end of the war.
The 357th crew chiefs used any paint that resembled green or olive drab. Hell, even some mustangs had their invasion stripes painted over with medium green.
P-47s from the 56th were even coated with AUTOMOTIVE PAINT.
Anonymous
>>5275997 >restoration >correct paint nigga they use whatever paint they want in restorations which is why you can't always trust them
Anonymous
What are the absolute required tools for modelling?
Anonymous
>>5276020 >Restorator. >Not doing research. Are you really saying small scale model builders can do research and buy a $1.50 bottle of paint to color a model accurately thanks to a 7.95 magazine which contains details on an aircraft livery from the 40's but professional aircraft restorators only use paint they have in the shed?
Anonymous
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>>5276031 #2 exacto knife blade and handle.
Decent paintbrushes if you're hand-brushing.
A nice pair of sprue cutters / nippers definitely.
Some sanding sticks of various grits, from ~200 up to ~1000+ for fine sanding.
Putty for filling in gaps, seams, etc. You can thin most putties with a thinner if necessary.
Honestly, those are probably the absolute bare essentials if you're building uncomplicated simple kits, but obviously there are a lot more tools that most modelers use regularly.
Anonymous
>>5276036 they use the wrong colors. just look at the interior colors of many wwii restorations. just ask on hyperscale about this too.
Anonymous
>>5276053 Who uses wrong colors? I assume you are talking about all restoration organizations and don't think all restoration projects fall under one global restoration organization.
Care to provide examples? Please refrain from civil restorations, these must be built with new FAA standards which also include color palettes.
Anonymous
>>5276059 Not
>>5276053 but it happens a lot. People modify planes and paint it with whatever seems reasonable to them. There are tons of modifications too. How many P-51s have a back seat? How many bombers have extra seats for passengers? You can't trust a restoration. Always go with primary sources.
Anonymous
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>>5276071 Of course most restorations will have added hardware, after all they are restored to be flown. However adding hardware does not entail any organization who restores aircraft cannot research the colors used for the machine.
The smithsonian is known to perform some of the best restorations as they restore the original pieces for exhibition.
Here is their helldiver being lowered at the Paul Garber facility for preservation work.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5274377 The Staghound was fun to build. This was not. The contact surfaces are tiny and include tiny PE pieces and it's hard to build it at the right angle.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5274377 The Staghound was fun to build. This was not. The contact surfaces are tiny and include tiny PE pieces and it's hard to build it at the right angle.
Anonymous
Are sanding sticks and needle files both needed to build models or can you choose one over the other?
Anonymous
>>5276277 Neither are needed. You just need sandpaper.
You really only need files if you're working with resin or metal.
Anonymous
>>5276277 There is always the right tool for the right job. While you can choose between Sanding Sticks, Sandpaper, and files, having all 3 available will help you greatly.
Sanding sticks for curved seams, like aircraft fuselages or wing leading edge.
Sandpaper for big areas and some hard to reach places and other places which require sanding curved surfaces.
Files for very tight spaces or hard to sand seams.
Anonymous
>>5276300 >>5276311 OK thanks.
Is there something special about x-acto knives or can I use any razor?
The reason I ask is that I already have a utility knife that takes a few different kinds of disposal blades that are wicked sharp, and I think I could probably save some cash.
It's a bit unwieldy but I'm poor
Anonymous
>>5276335 X-acto knives are cheap and easy to replace, trust me you will be going through lots and lots of #2 blades. I say #2 specifically because it's the most useful blade you will use. There are other blades though that I use often, mostly the chisel blades that are flat at the tip.
X-acto blades and other similar hobby knives are very sharp and wear out quickly, but you need a really sharp, thin knife for trimming excess plastic, nubs, etc.
Also, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, invest in 1:72 or smaller scale kits. They are cheap and easy to find (most >$15 per kit).
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5276335 Adding to what
>>5276343 said, you can try using scalpel blades as well. Number 11 blades are also fantastic and the material quality is usually great (medical grade) if you have the extra 2 dollars for them.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5276335 X-acto knives of any brand are easier to use and offer different blades for different jobs. I personally have 2 normal sized x-acto knives with #11 and curved blades and a larger x-acto knife with a chisel blade that I use for folding PE.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5276343 #2 are the large blades, #11 are the normal sized blades
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5276268 And it's ready for paint. Just need to fix the one part and add the tow cable.
Anonymous
>>5276548 How do you choose whether to paint and then assemble, or assemble and then paint?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5276593 For armor: assemble everything that gets painted the same color and leave off anything that can't be painted easily afterwards. I leave off wheels and tracks, but I assemble the tracks in runs that can easily be painted and then installed. I usually leave tools and tow cables off unless they would be hard to install after paint.
>>5276548 Painting might be delayed as I don't have anything thin enough for the tow cable.
Anonymous
I'm going to try and airbrush the checkered front part tomorrow instead of using the decal. That and the propeller as well as some aluminum bits and pieces are all I have left to paint.
Anonymous
>>5275981 Why was Old Crow painted in that scheme as apposed to the NM finish and aluminium paint of other P-51D's?
Anonymous
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>>5276723 >that canopy How terribly engineered is this kit?
Anonymous
>>5275700 >>5275699 Wait, those 2 are on their website?
Anonymous
>>5275719 >>5275716 >>5275700 >>5275699 To be honest, i think there is nothing wrong with those old kits. They are (if cheap enough) ideal for kids and starters. Children don't need to start with Dragon-tier 1:72 kits.
Letting Kids build the kits and put pictures of that on your website on the other hand...
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5276031 Only modelling? Or modelling and painting?
Pic related are the essentials, tool-wise. The drill might be optional, depending on the kit you want to build though.
Personally i would use a smaller side cutter and a surgical blade of higher quality with changeable blades like the ones made by Braun.
I recommend using plastic glue instead of super glue for the majority of tasks.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5276989 Yes.
>>5276993 I agree, I plan on building some of their tanks soon, specifically the Matilda and Churchill. And yeah, as a kid Airfix models were what got me into modelling
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5276031 Tamiya basic tool kit is good and inexpensive (nice tweezers). Also buy nail files from supermarkets, best 50p I ever spent
Anonymous
>>5271752 >>5271835 what is that kit like?
Anonymous
>>5277338 It's a 1/72 Emhar kit. Considering I bought it for 30 cents it's decent. Masterbox has a series of WW1 Male and Female tanks now. Althought they're
mk.Is . I did a bit of scratch building on the kit. As it stands out of the box the details are a bit soft but the kit is buildable.
Also started working on Dragon's T-34 again. Does anyone remember it?
Anonymous
Anonymous
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>>5276739 Because of D-day, many other Mustangs were painted like so.
Mustangs in Italy and India retained their NM finish and invasion aircraft were quickly stripped back to NM.
Anonymous
Hi, I posted this pic before in a previous thread, but I figured I'd post it again because I'm ready now to start my build.
Anonymous
>>5277583 SHEIT. That's a nice selection of kits.
Anonymous
>>5277593 >4 kits >nice selection u wot m8
Anonymous
>>5274813 Hi guy i'm new to this hobby. i was looking at this masterairbrush kit that cost about that about 100$. i need to know if it any good before i spend money on it. Also what some website that sell modelling supply that is cheap enough? i go to Ebay and it cost 3.50 for a bottle of paint, there must be some place that sell it cheaper?
Anonymous
>>5277605 Engrish? From China?
Anonymous
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>>5277610 well not everybody on 4chan is from U.S you know?
Anonymous
>>5277610 Seriously, you need to fuck off and be a hot glue loving kissless virgin someone else.
INTERNATIONAL PICTURE BOARD, MOTHERFUCKER. Do you even understand English?
Anonymous
>>5277614 Well thank you friend
now can someone recommend me a website to buy paint and kit?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5277621 You can try Sprue Brothers and have a look at their paint range. The cheapest I know are the testors square bottles at 1.79 bucks or something like that.
Anonymous
>>5277597 >Meng, Tamiya, Dragon >not nice Anonymous
>>5277672 Maybe you'll be able to afford $20 kits someday.
Anonymous
>>5277681 Nigger, what kits do you build? Meng is top of the line.
Anonymous
>>5277689 >top of the line >full of errors Anonymous
>>5277694 No kit is perfect
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5277697 Nigger, you started this shit and you haven't even said what kits you build. Do you even build models?
Anonymous
>>5277701 Do you Mr. Hominem?
Anonymous
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5276548 While I'm waiting on tow cable from Poland, why not build another Staghound?
Anonymous
Finally got all the paintwork completely done. The checkered stencil took forever as I had to figure out a way to reproduce it from the decals. Ended up just sticking a piece of Tamiya tape over the decal and cutting it out with a #2 blade.
Anonymous
Can you make a good looking model without an airbrush? This looks interesting and I'd like to try it out but I don't think I have the money for an airbrush
Anonymous
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>>5278194 Of course you can. Different techniques are needed and you can use spray cans effectively as well.
Anonymous
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>>5278194 Yes, as long you're fairly decent with hand painting and have the patience for it, or else stick to subjects with monotone colors and use spray cans instead.
Anonymous
>>5278142 What specific red did you use on the propeller hub?
Anonymous
>>5277597 Yeah I was shopping around for a kit to build for the group build, but I couldn't decide on so I bought the 4 subjects that I've never built before.
I should have just picked one from my stash, but eh, I always wanted to build those kits anyway.
Anonymous
>>5277597 I really should put all my kits in one room. They're pretty much all over the place until I find the time to finish my hobby room.
Anonymous
>>5277597 Here's some more. I want to build that 1/72 Gato so bad, but not until I have the room to display it in.
Anonymous
>>5277597 Here's some more. I used to love building 1/350 scale ships, but they get tiring after a while.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5277597 More 1/350 ships and some tanks.
Anonymous
>>5277597 Found more kits in one closet. I even found some F-86 sabres I started building last year.
Anonymous
>>5277597 And some more. I think I have more kits in the garage, I'll check tomorrow.
Anonymous
>>5278208 Just plain old regular Tamiya XF-7 for the red and XF-3 for the yellow. Had to paint them flat (they will be glossy when finished) because I had to use masking tape and it wouldn't have worked over gloss paints.
Anonymous
>>5278263 >>5278246 >>5278242 >>5278235 >>5278258 >>5278253 >>5278250 >>5278267 >>5278263 Jesus man, those are some expensive un-built kits you got there. How did that happen? You practically have a small hobby shop as a stsh.
Anonymous
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>>5278274 Also, post some pics of those ships please, they look pretty neat.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
So we're posting stashes now?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5278387 You know people call each other nigger without meaning anything by it right?
Anonymous
>>5278387 >thinking nigger is used as a racist insult Is this your first day on 4chan?
Anonymous
>>5278387 >>5278410 >>5278556 The only place niggers belong is hanging from a tree.
Anonymous
>>5278387 Fuck off, nigger!
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Realized I could scan my decals to do stenciling for most of the other larger markings. Once I get that done I'll gloss coat the entire thing with future and do whatever smaller decals are needed. Then I'll do some panel line washes, maybe some filters as well as some streaking on the wings and dirt / mud on the landing gear / bottom of the fuselage.
Anonymous
>>5278929 >>5278699 >>5278556 >>5278387 >>5278410 Also can whoever keeps shitposting in these threads just fuck off and leave already? Take this shit elsewhere.
Anonymous
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>>5279047 Loving what you are doing with the Mustang. Makes me want to get an airbrush even more only to get a solid color.
Don't forget to paint the tire walls white!
Anonymous
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>>5279047 Problem, nigger?
Anonymous
>>5278270 so you don't use the checker decals at all?
I always wanted to build a 357thFG Mustang, but always screw up that checkered nose.
Anonymous
>>5278312 fuck off back to ur gaypla general.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5279532 No, I didn't use any decals, everything you see on the model so far has all been airbrushed.
What I did was make a stencil using Tamiya masking tape and an x-acto blade. I carefully placed a strip of wide tamiya tape over the decal sheet, and using the x-acto blade I carved out the checkered pattern. Since I already painted the under-surface red, all I had to do was mask the red portion and then over-spray the unmasked squares with yellow.
Another way you can do this easily is to scan your decals with a printer scanner, and then re-print out the decals using regular printer paper. This will preserve the decals if you mess up and want to use the decals instead. pic related, currently cutting out the stenciling for the USAAF roundrels.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
The markings didn't come out as nice as I would have liked, I think I used a bad type of masking tape. Couldn't use Tamiya because it wasn't wide enough to cut the tape out in one piece. Paint must have bled through the edges a little bit.
Anonymous
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Picked out the old stash, have not painted in like a year. My first scale model was on the Italeri m24 but it went pretty shitty because i used Games workshop glue on it and it's just way too thick. So i guess lesson learned to get that thin cement. No airbrush or anything either. Wanted to pick something like that up. Got the other two kits from a hobby shop in Toronto for like 30 dollars a year or so ago.
Anonymous
Best online store to buy supplies and or models in NA/Canada?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5280161 Spruebrothers, for sure in my experience. ebay is also just fine and you can find pretty much anything there as well for reasonable prices.
I really like spruebrothers though because of how fast they ship, usually the same day I order and I get my stuff within ~2 days using USPS.
They have a really good selection too honestly, some of their stuff is kinda over-priced though, so always look to other sites before you buy an expensive kit from them, specifically ebay.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5280161 Scale Hobbyist (cheapest kits in US)
Sprue Brothers (Jacked up their prices since buying GreatModels; even with sales ScaleHobbyist kits are usually cheaper; super specials have been the same shit for years; usually only buy supplies from)
Hobbylinc
Tower Hobbies
Lucky Model(based in HK, but kits are very cheap as well as shipping for small orders; large selection of kits, paint, and aftermarket)
Ebay(easiest way to buy foreign aftermarket)
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5277735 It's fun building a second copy of a kit. You know all the problem areas and better ways of building it.
Anonymous
>mods ban shitposters >thread dies
Anonymous
>>5280853 Post your own shit if you want the thread to be more active. We're working on our models
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5280927 I already did. A bunch of times. I'm currently working on a T-34. How about you?
Anonymous
>>5281022 >no pics Sure you are
Anonymous
>>5281321 >>5277354 Did some weathering on the hull today. Any opinions? Where can I improve?
I'm trying to finish some of my started kits before I paint the Hetzer because I want to learn weathering.
Anonymous
>>5281399 looks good. maybe add some grounded down graphite to tracks but it's not necessary.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5281403 Haven't added gun metal pigment to the tracks, yet. Also I'll add a bit of metallic effects to the most chipped areas with soft graphite pencil. I don't know if I'll have to add pigment fixer to the tracks to seal in the dirt. Is there a method to make a thing layer of dust because when I use pigment fixer it darkens the pigment a little bit and the thin layer of dust disappears?
Also I'll add some fuel stains.
Anonymous
Horrible lighting on this picture, but I finished up the decals.
Anonymous
Took a picture with better lighting. Pledge future was used as a clear coat for the decals, after I laid them down and used micro sol to get them to conform to panel lines, I over-sprayed the decals with another 2 layers of future to seal them.
Anonymous
>>5281549 Can streaking be done after panel line washes? Doesn't oil paint get in the panel lines?
Anonymous
>>5281553 It does, which is why I usually clear coat the panel line wash after I finish it. Actually, what I do for panel lines is more of a sludge-wash than a true panel line wash. I just take a thick brush and take the wash and just get a nice thick layer of it inside the panel lines by dabbing it all across the model. Then, I wait for the wash to completely dry, and I take paper towels and just wipe down the excess dried paint which doesn't interact with the acrylic gloss layer below. This also kinda acts as a filter in itself when you wipe off the excess.
For the filters I just take an older soft-bristle brush and do a sort of dot-filter method, where I use a bunch of different colors of oil paint that I placed across the fuselage, and just with the brush damp with thinner stipple around and blend the colors together roughly.
Anonymous
So I'm thinking of airbrushing my first model tonight. Can anyone give me any advice? Also, is there a specific way I clean the airbrush between switching colors?
Anonymous
>>5281558 how the fuck did you white wall the wheels?
Anonymous
>>5281909 Decals that came with the kit. Alternatively though, I often use circle templates in order to paint circular parts like tires or the road wheels of tanks.
Anonymous
>>5281776 Acrylics or enamels? Thinning your paint is really an art but consistency like milk is a general rule of thumb. Use ventilation and a respirator. Use light coats. Practice on some cardboard or something expendable first. Changing colors depends on your airbrush. If it is a bottle type, swap out the bottle. If it is gravity-fed, you'll want to dump out the excess paint, spray out the remaining paint, run some airbrush cleaner/thinner through it. You don't want to spray it as that puts nasty chemicals into the air and your lungs (you are wearing your respirator, right?).
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5281952 Thanks buddy. I got a bunch of Tamiya acrylic paint. Would it be alright to just run the Tamiya paint thinner (X-20A) through my air brush as a thinner?
As of now I only have a 3M asbestos respirator, which up until now I didn't think of. Could I quite possibly swap out filters and use that?
Anonymous
>>5282096 Use Windex to clean up Tamiya acrylics. It's much cheaper.
Anonymous
>>5282096 X-20A is made for airbrushing, and it works alright. General rule of thumb for me when airbrushing Tamiya acrylics is to thin it 1:1 paint to thinner ratio. So if you use 2mL of paint for example, thin it with 2mL of thinner.
That said, if this is your first time airbrushing, don't expect your results to be fantastic. It takes a while to learn how to airbrush properly, god knows it took me a long ass time to actually get good with it. Just don't give up and keep practicing, watch videos, etc. and you will improve over time.
That said, I exclusively airbrush my Tamiya paints with Mr. Hobby leveling thinner, which is a lacquer thinner which allows the paint to level out even.
>>5282108 I second this, I airbrush a little bit of windex through my airbrush after using Tamiya stuff, just squirt a little in there and use a q-tip to mix whatever paint remains with the windex. Airbrush it through a few times until its clear and you can switch colors.
Anonymous
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>>5282113 >>5282108 Hey, thanks alot guys.
Anonymous
>>5281465 >>5281549 >>5281558 what kind of gloss coat are you using?
Anonymous
>>5282179 Not him, but he is using Future Floor Wax.
Anonymous
>>5281941 I was gonna say, because you already installed them behind the gear doors before the white walling.
Anonymous
>>5282198 Dry fitting is real, yo.
Anonymous
I'm the guy who was asking about the T-14 Armata a few threads ago.
Anonymous
>>5282213 If you are airbrushing, I would recommend Vallejo Model Air, simply because it is convenient and not too smelly. If you are brushing, then Vallejo Model Colour.
However, the easiest way to paint a model without an airbrush is a spray can, (the t-55 is one colour right?).
For the 'rattlecan', I recommend Tamiya.
Anonymous
>>5282240 > If you are brushing, then Vallejo Model Colour. No. In both cases Model Air is the better choice. There is literally no reason to use Model Colour if the same color is available from the Model Air range.
Anonymous
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>>5282254 I find they are a little too thin for some uses, and you get little bubbles.
Am I using them wrong?
Anonymous
I gonna build a Panther D. Lets see how it comes out
Anonymous
>>5282113 >That said, I exclusively airbrush my Tamiya paints with Mr. Hobby leveling thinner, which is a lacquer thinner which allows the paint to level out even. You might as well just use Mr. Color lacquers then. They work a lot better and their color range is a lot better.
Anonymous
>>5282213 Tamiya for airbrushing, Model Master or Vallejo for hand brushing.
Anonymous
>>5282458 I have never got on with airbrushing Tamiya. Is there some kind of technique to it?
Anonymous
>>5282501 It's pretty foolproof using Tamiya thinner. I've airbrushed it on unevenly using a bent airbrush needle and it still dried level.
Anonymous
>>5282513 Really? I've only used it once, does it behave differently than regular paints?
and should I use a respirator mask?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282523 It's an alcohol based acrylic.
Always use a respirator regardless what you are airbrushing.
Anonymous
>>5282455 They're harder to get, and I dislike that the vast majority of their colors are semi-gloss / glossy in texture.
>>5282179 >>5282180 Yes, I actually did mention in my posts I was using Future too.
>>5282208 >>5282198 I never glued the wheels in place as this anon says, I just took them off to apply the decals then glued them into place.
>>5282363 That's the new one right? I really want to build that kit some time in the future. You should pick up the individual track links that Tamiya made for it instead of using the ones that come with the kit.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282541 They're glossy so you don't have to apply a gloss coat before decals and weathering.
Anonymous
>>5282541 Yes its the new one from 2015 and it also has some nice details on the armor now.
Yeah the rubber tracks are kinda shitty. I going to lathe a aluminum barrel for the gun myself and cut some wire grid too for the engine air intake.
Anonymous
>>5282566 might as well just buy a gun barrel, they're like £3
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5282363 I don`t understand Tamiya.
Their older 1/48 kit has segmented plastic tracks while their new Ausf D 1/35 kit has the rubbish vinyl tracks again, just like their Panther A and G kits.
Anonymous
>>5282722 Their not actually that bad, the technology to mold those type of tracks has gotten better over the years. I've used the standard tracks that come with Tamiya kits in recent builds and they're really just not that bad. That said, some of their kits do come with link-and length tracks as well, like their ISU-152 and IS-2 kits.
That said, Tamiya are cheap fucks for not just including the single-link tracks that they sell separately with the kit itself.
Anonymous
>>5282725 But then, that would increase the price of the kits, plus Tamiya like to have 'easy to build' models.
Anonymous
>>5282745 >that would increase the price of the kits And yet Zvezda somehow manages it to include both types, vinyl and plastic link in some of their well priced kits so people could decide for themselves what they want to use.
From all model manufacturers, especially Tamiya should be able to afford something like this.
Anonymous
>>5282745 Tamiya kits are already expensive, more expensive than their counterparts and they come with less.
Compare Tamiya's kits to a Dragon smart kit from the past few years. Smart kits come with "Magic tracks," which are individual track links. They come with photo etch engine grills, clamps, etc. They come with metal tow cables, etc. They even include metal barrels often. All of this for basically the same price as Tamiya's kits.
I like Tamiya kits a lot, specifically because of their ease to build and their excellent tooling compared to the competition, but honestly they need to stop being so fucking cheap and just include the extras with the kit itself, even if it means a slight price increase.
Anonymous
>>5277583 Finally got the time to post pics. Here's the Jagdpanzer's completed lower hull. I'm gonna see if I have some spare individual track links from my spares box because I don't like those kit tracks at all.
Anonymous
>>5282761 I never realized that Tamiya is expensive. I always considered them to be cheap. Maybe its because of your location?
Anonymous
>>5282757 >>5282761 >>5282769 I always perceived Tamiya as 'affordable'.
But then I've never purchased a kit priced over £20... (Though some kits retailed at a higher price, I got them in a sale or on evilbay)
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282768 And here's the Merkava. I really enjoyed building this one, partly because it's not another naziboo tank, which I'm fully guilty of building too many.
Maybe next time I'll build the LeClerc.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282775 >>5282769 It depends on the type of kit. Smaller, older Tamiya kits are pretty cheap, but their newer releases in 1/35 get kinda expensive.
Still, most of their kits are definitely affordable as you say.
>>5282768 I really like the way Tamiya engineered this kit. They don't force you to glue both hull pieces together, and instead allow them to just sit together with some poly caps. Excellent design and it makes painting the kit so much easier. This is why I'm willing to pay more for Tamiya's offerings honestly, it's not just their pristine tooling, it's also the intelligent way they engineer their kits.
Anonymous
Finished with the wash for not, coated with more future and now waiting a few hours for it to cure before I do some dot filters on the wings and fuselage. After that I'll probably do a little dusting of mud on the tires and bottom hull, then some streaking followed by a semi-matte flat coat to seal it all up.
Anonymous
>>5282775 Their old kits are really cheap.
Their old Panther Ausf. A from the 70s costs less than 20€.
But even their new ones are not that expensive. That Panther showed above is using totally new tools and was released 2015 costs 44. Compared to the old kit thats expensive, but compared to other manufacturers its reasonable. Prices of some other Panther kits (all from the same online shop)
ICM: 30 (kit is old and really bad)
Tamiya Panther G: 39 (somewhat old)
Dragon Panther D: 52
Zvezda Panther D: 29
Revell and Italeri do Panthers in 1:35 for around 25-30€ as well, but i know that Revells Panther is just a re-use of the terrible ICM tool so yeah.
I kinda like the idea of having a bit cheaper kit with optional upgrades instead of paying 52 for a kit full of stuff (Dragon) i might not want to use. If i were ok with the tracks, i could just buy the foto etched parts for that Panther and probably pay less than 52 for example.
Anonymous
>>5282789 I actually quite like single piece tracks
especially dragon ones
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282792 Nothing wrong with them, but its personal preference.
I think with the current state of the market there is a kit of most tanks with just the right difficulty, the right amount of options and the right price for everyone.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5282788 Fantastic. Will you try adding an aerial to it or add some pastel weathering for the exhausts?
Anonymous
Asking here since it seems most appropriate.
Anonymous
>>5282949 Get a drill and drill out the upper ring, then you can remove the rest from the other side.
Anonymous
>>5283063 any advice on how he can put it back together after that, genius?
>>5282949 shit's essentially rubber, it is stretchable enough to take off and put back on, see pic related?
Anonymous
Well, I was going to try and weather this, but I decided to say fuck it. I'm pretty garbage at weathering anyways honestly, and I really have no idea what type of weathering to do on this aircraft anyways. Just going to leave it nice and clean.
Anonymous
>>5283068 Yeah just use rivets again.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5283175 >drill rivets out >rivet the tracks back together >instead of simply taking the tracks off and putting them back on unmolested Anonymous
>>5283130 Made a full album of the build if any of you are interested.
http://imgur.com/a/hRCRG Anonymous
>>5283440 >pubes I didn't know ZM made non-resin kits.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5283518 And what are you talking about? Every ZM kit that has been released has been plastic styrene, not resin...
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5280313 The hardest part of the kit is done.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5283130 Looks great, man. Also thanks for the tip earlier regarding the checkered markings
Anonymous
Hi, so I plowed into hlj's sales and I saw this line of 1/144 gimix aircraft from tomytec, I thought prepainted aircraft I can just assemble would be a great way to relax and enjoy the build plus...my paint skills are shit/lack of space and equipment so I can delve into these.
Anonymous
>>5283805 >how much glue do I need? When it comes to scale modeling, except for very few exceptions, the general rule regarding glues is use as little as possible.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5283808 Well I gathered I shouldn't be caking he stuff on, I'm more or less curious of how much this particular series of model kits needs glue to keep it intact.
They're pre-painted, decals pre-applied, just makes me wonder how much of it can just be clipped in or not since I seen first hand what glue can do
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5283440 Go back to reddit, faggot.
Anonymous
>>5284012 >my skills can't compete with yours so I'll throw assumptions as insults This is lower than what I was lead to believe of us
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5284012 >>5284017 Seems like you use it too considering you knew it was there.
I've been posting on r/modelmakers before these threads even existed, and have been using 4chan since 2005, but go on and stay mad about nothing.
Anonymous
>>5284012 >you can only post your builds on 4chan Anonymous
Here's what I'm going to be working on next. I got this kit for really cheap and I've built a 1/32 D-9 in the past. I'm starting to move to smaller scales because I'm running out of display space with all these 1/32 kits. I also just want simpler and faster builds as well.
I already got an Eduard set in the mail for it, as well as some resin exhausts. I was thinking about getting the massive Aires resin set with full engine detail, corrected landing gear bay, etc. but decided against it as it is over twice as expensive as the kit itself.
With all that said, does anyone here have any resources for doing the riveting on the D-9? I have a rivet tool and I wanted to add some extra details to the kit, but I don't know where to find a template that tells me exactly where I need to place rivets in 1:48
>>5284114 You know it's really funny, because I reverse image searched my images with no results linking back to Reddit, which means this guy had to be specifically browsing that very specific, tiny subreddit to even see my post, which means obviously he is someone else who either posts there or at least lurks.
So this pretty much confirms he is a Redditor as well.
Anonymous
>>5281399 Done building the T-34. Now I'm gonna finish my 1/72 Italeri Hs 129.
Any thoughts? I'd appreciate some advice and criticism.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5284466 Whats up with the different shade of green on the turret hatch.
Anonymous
>>5284466 >>5284469 Looks good.
The metal spots (on top of the machine gun port for example) could use a tiny bit of orange/rust color.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5284470 Tried to add some color variation to the base green using oils. A bit too much on that hatch.
>>5284476 I don't know how to make rust look good. I'll have took look into how to paint rust.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5284482 id recommend the weathering magazine issue 1 . pdf
Anonymous
>>5284469 No stains around the exhaust?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5284497 Thought about adding adding I'll see about that because I just looked and I have some black pastel chalk. I've seen some oil or grime streaking down done by some modelers. Did that happen IRL?
Anonymous
>>5284476 Added exhaust soot and some rust. I'm trying to keep stuff subtle because I tend to overdo everything.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5283594 If you ever need to bend PE into a curve, use a lighter to anneal the PE first. Don't anneal it if the bend is straight or you don't want the PE part to be unintentionally bent.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5283594 #If you ever need to bend PE into a curve, use a lighter to anneal the PE first. Don't anneal it if the bend is straight or you don't want the PE part to be unintentionally bent.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Talking to Steve at badger uk about my stynylrez primer being too thick.
Anonymous
>>5285849 We can totally tell how thick it is from an image on the internet. You brits aren't too smart.
Anonymous
>>5285861 You cannot tell from the surface tension that its thick and gloopy as apposed to thin and watery? Okay.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5285867 No, but I can tell from the bottle you're an idiot.
Anonymous
>>5285849 If it says it doesn't need thinned, it doesn't need thinned. Just spray that shit.
Anonymous
>>5285871 Cant, it clogs the airbrush.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5285849 >buying badge crap there's your problem.
Anonymous
The joys of building aircraft.
Anonymous
>>5285879 >the joys of building bad aircraft kits Build a Tamiya and you won't even need putty.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5285893 hahaha..... the idiots in this thread I swear
>>5284120 Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5285893 When Tamiya makes a 1/72 Hs129 I will.
Anonymous
>Another new Chinese company making a 1/16 Luchs
Anonymous
>>5285944 Looks pretty decent too, the only other Luchs kit I know of is that really hard to find Tasca kit, and I'm pretty sure Tasca doesn't even exist anymore.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>528594 A 1/16 Luchs shouldn't even be a bit kit either, probably about the size of a 1/35 Abrams, only a little taller. Anonymous
>>5285945 Tasca changed their name to best girl Asuka.
Also, Meng plans on making a King Tiger with interior and M1A1 and M1A2 with interior.
Anonymous
>>5285944 I'm still waiting on an interior for the Panda 1/16 Pz.38 (t).
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5285956 Yeah I read about the KT kit, might be cool since most KT kits currently existing outside of 1/16 don't have interiors. I've built Dragon's KT as well as Tamiyas.
>>5285961 Same here, I have that kit, painted and everything, but I never finished it for some reason... one of these days I'll go back and weather it.
Anonymous
>>5285873 What size needle are you using?
Anonymous
>>5286172 As recommended .5mm
Anonymous
>>5285956 >Meng plans on making a King Tiger with interior and M1A1 and M1A2 with interior. hng, I want those Abrams NOW.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286217 I have a Dragon one I never finished.
Anonymous
How do I drybrush without it looking shit?
Anonymous
>>5286224 Use a good brush, hardly any paint (thin if needed), and don't use the same kind of paint as the layer below.
Anonymous
>>5286232 How do I achieve a finish like this?
Anonymous
>>5286235 That looks like its done with a mixture of dry-brushing as well as post-shading. Spray the entire thing the base panzer grey color, then take just a little bit of light grey and add it to the panzer grey, and I mean just a little bit, just enough to create some highlight effect. Then spray that on in a mottled / random manner in the middle of the panels. Then maybe take an even lighter grey color and dry-brush over the bolts, edges and other raised details to simulate wear.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286246 Thanks, anon. I plan on buying on of these little guns soon.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5286192 Weird. I've heard people spraying it with .3mm needles at 25 psi. Perhaps it's your airbrush.
Anonymous
>>5286281 desu senpai it does look pretty damn thick from the pic he posted.
What type of paint is that anyway? Why not just test some ratios with thinner and find one that sprays properly?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286287 Its primer, its certainly thicker than Vallejo, and even Vallejo requires thinning to airbrush.
I can thin it, it still clogs the airbrush up tho, if they claim it can be used without thinner then all I'm saying is maybe I got a bad batch.
I cant imagine anyone putting through their airbrush and not having it clog.
But I`m sending it back to Steve & hes sending it back to their analysis lab.
So either they will agree, acknowledge there is a problem and hopefully give me one that works, or disagree and say no their product is perfect and I wont use it again.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
I received the PE set I ordered from Australia today.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
I received the PE set I ordered from Australia today.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5286360 4chan's auto-rotate image feature is really annoying...
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
I received the PE set I ordered from Australia today.
Anonymous
>Be me >Start hobby around a year ago >Go through 6 airbrushes 3 Chinese ones 2 neos and 1 real Iwata >Start and finish maybe 12 models of ships and robots and shit. >All dead want kill self
Anonymous
>>5286500 How the hell do you kill an airbrush? Do you not take care of them?
Anonymous
Did you even lubricate the needle? Man wtf. That's too many airbrushes.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286509 The washers on the Chinese ones and the neos just went over time. One of the neos nozzles broke and the metal got stuck. Similar thing for the Iwata but it was the part where the air goes in the fitting just died. I'm not a ham hands and I've never damaged as much as a figures joints and I've watched a bunch of airbrush care vids only use vallejo cleaner and super thin brushes to clean them. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
I'm at the point where all I want is a good brush that doesn't kill on me and if it does to have cheap replacement parts.
Anonymous
>>5286523 After the first 2 I started WD40ing most of the moving parts. I read that the industrial lube on some of the parts should be good for years so I didn't put too much work into that.
Anonymous
>>5286541 >using WD40 on an airbrush Are you mentally retarded?
Anonymous
>>5286579 Am I incorrect in believing WD40 is a multi-purpose lube?
It has worked on every tool or less than perfect joint I have sprayed it on.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286600 Do you use it for sex too?
Anonymous
>>5286600 WD40 is a penetrative, it dissolves oil.
Anonymous
>>5286638 Is this in relation to the fish eye thing I keep reading because I and many others have never had that issue?
I'm just looking for a good brush with some longevity lube is the least of my concerns.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5286600 >>5286644 Double dubs help a homie in need!
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
>>5285147 The hull is nearly done. I just need to add some minor details and then build the turret.
The PE guards would have been nearly impossible to form without first annealing the PE with a lighter.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Here's my jagdpanzer, minus the kit rubber tracks. I have some spare Dragon individual tracks and they look ok.
Anonymous
I also worked on the Merkava, finishing up the hull. The tracks were a disappointment. They have flash and pin marks you have to clean up, and they don't really fit all that well.
Anonymous
>>5288970 It's a good thing most of it is hidden. Is that a Panzer IV I see behind?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289004 Yep it's a Dragon Panzer IV I decided to finish while I'm working with the jagdpanzer.
Anonymous
I plan on getting these kits sometime soon. Any major issues with them apart from being old Tamiya?>Tamiya 1/35 M41 Walker Bulldog >Tamiya 1/35 M4 Sherman Early Production >Tamiya 1/35 M8 Howitzer
Anonymous
>>5289035 Just that they come with those terrible rubber tracks you can't glue together.
Plus the details are a bit soft, a lot of parts are out of scale, but as old kits, they're very buildable.
Anonymous
>>5289035 Don't expect modern level of details and shitty tracks. Also the Sherman has open sponsons.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289036 >>5289143 I can deal with that.
I just want to practise painting and weathering techniques.
Anonymous
What is the best putty/filler for modelling?
Anonymous
>>5289521 humbrol model filler
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289549 huh, I had a tube once, and it wasn't too great. Is the Tamiya stuff good?
Anonymous
>>5289521 Tamiya by far. You can thin it with their lacquer thinner if needed. Iafter it dries, it can be smoothed out using Tamiya lacquer thinner.
Anonymous
>>5289559 can it not be thinned by their x-20a?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289560 No, use Tamiya lacquer thinner only. It can technically also be thinned using Tamiya Extra Thin.
Anonymous
Progress pic of the Jagdpanzer. It doesn't come with any interior, Tamiya went full Jew and released the sprue with the main gun assembly and metal barrel separately.
Anonymous
>>5289604 >full Jew Have you heard about their Panther D?
Anonymous
>>5289604 the gun moves with the periscope thingy right?
Anonymous
>>5289608 >Have you heard about their Panther D? lol yep. My local hobby store has one in stock and I decided to buy a Dragon Panther D instead.
>>5289609 >the gun moves with the periscope thingy right? Yep, the gunner's sight move along with the main gun. Kinda gimmicky, but I appreciate that feature nonetheless.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289617 Good choice, lad
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289626 I've used both and Tamiya is better.
Anonymous
>>5289626 I have this, its very... light, and easy to sand off.
I also have green stuff, which stinks but is harder.
Anonymous
>>5289729 Green stuff is an epoxy, it's not meant to be used as a filler. It's much more dense and viscous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289747 Viscosity is only used for liquids.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289747 Epoxy can be used for filling large gaps. I use when fitting resin cockpits.
Anonymous
Finally finished the jagdpanzer, gonna prime the entire thing now so hopefully I could get start on painting today.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289814 Whoops forgot the pic.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Also finished the merkava. I'm gonna try painting the jagdpanzer and the merkava at the same time
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5289747 I meant squadron green putty.
Anonymous
I have a semi-stupid kind of question regarding putty... Can Tamiya surface primer be used as putty?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5290025 Not really. It and Mr. Surfacer can be used for scratches and very tiny gaps like panel lines, but no larger as it shrinks dramatically as it dries due to the fact it is paint.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5287167 The Crusader turret is done.
Anonymous
anyone know good scale vehicules for megabloks call of duty guys?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5290563 Therer aren't any.
Anonymous
>>5284582 I'd still make the entire inside of the exaughst pipe black. even a prius exaust goes soot-black inside let alone a WW2 Russian tank. you shouldent be able to see rust there.
Anonymous
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
With the two Staghounds ready for paint and my original project put on hold to gather resources (and maybe build all three varianta at once), I don't know what in my stash to work on next...
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Do you think that Dragon tank rider figures would be able to fit on a sherman? I don't want to buy them only to find them incompatible.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5290711 >>5290716 I'll do that when I come back home today. Thanks, lads
Anonymous
>be me >very little money to spend on hobbies >look at all those models I really want >about a year later >finally have a lot of money to spend >absolutely nothing that tickles my fancy
Anonymous
>>5291151 What are you into? Planes, Tanks, Cars, Ships or giant robots?
Anonymous
>>5291170 Tanks and military vehicles, preferably WW1/2 or Cold War.
Anonymous
>>5291195 May I suggest Meng and Takom fow WWI tanks, Dragon for WWII, and Meng, Trumpeter, Takom for Cold war
Anonymous
>>5291203 I'm thinking something brutal, like a soviet APC...
Anonymous
>>5291205 Trumpeter makes a bunch of Soviet stuff. BTR-40/50/60/70/80, BMP-1/2/3..... The problem is that they're not beginner kits. They have photo-etched parts, individual link tracks.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5291217 I like their BTR-60P. Open top AFVS are nice to build.
Anonymous
>>5291195 go to pintrest or google images and search models, or mig jimenez and look at inspiration.
that always makes me want to get something.
Anonymous
>>5291396 I think I'm gonna get trumpeter's btr-60p and the Kominterm artillery trailer. I like the functionality of soviet stuff.
Anonymous
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Speaking of tractors, can anyone find any pictures of Catepillar D7 tractors towing US or Soviet artillery?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
I think I'll build a 17 pdr next.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5292365 Look fucker, this is a tiny board, with generals that have specific participants every day, if it bothers you so much you can just hide his posts instead of pointlessly shitposting.
Anonymous
>>5292365 also take a look at who made the fucking thread, and then tell me where this discussion that you seem to be defending so valiantly came from
Anonymous
>>5292365 >just now noticing there is a tripfag You must be new here.
Anonymous
>>5292333 No but here is an M5 artillery tractor in use
Anonymous
>>5292365 The anti-gundam autist is still butthurt everyone abandoned his thread.
Anonymous
>>5292411 You know it really rumples my johnsons when people complain about trips on small boards like this, if anything this is the most valid place to have them
Anonymous
>>5292415 >>5292411 >>5292395 >>5292389 >>5292386 Buddy, you really need to put your trip back on. All these replies in a slow thread like this, you really need to learn to space your replies out a little more.
This tripfag is cancer, an attention whore that makes a new post every time he glues a new piece together. Just fuck off, no one replies to your posts anyways except yourself, wonder why that is?
Anonymous
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
Based Janitor is Based
Anonymous
Does anyone have any experience with the Academy Merkava?
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5292409 I already have the tractor. I'm just looking for what I could hook up to it, maybe a Soviet A-19.
Anonymous
>>5292439 >Does anyone have any experience with the Academy Merkava? Fit is decent, like most Academy kits, had trouble with the ball and chains in the rear of the turret. Vinyl tracks and road wheels are terrible, but can be built into a decent-looking Merkava, if you're not that knowledgeable about the tank.
Anonymous
>>5292539 Frankly I'm not that knowledgeable about tanks in general, I know a bit about specific tanks but not nearly to the degree that most of you seem to. Is there a better Merkava kit that you would recommend?
Anonymous
Oh boy, Trypophobia. My favorite!
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
What are the best modelling channels on youtube? I'd like to see some weathering tutorials.
Anonymous
Anonymous
I know this isn't strictly your wheelhouse, but I didn't want to make a new thread just for one question.
Anonymous
>>5293072 You're better off asking another thread, or even website. I mean we only make kits or scratchbuild here.
Anonymous
>>5293098 Alright, I'll do that. Thanks.
Anonymous
How do I do weathering? I plan on building a soviet afv but I have no idea where to start.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5292554 >Is there a better Merkava kit that you would recommend? If you want ease of build and accuracy, Meng.
Hobby Boss also makes good Merkavas, although the way they did the suspension bugs the crap out of me, and the newer Academy Merkava Mk. 4 is good as well, much better than their old Mk. 3
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5293100 Try Collection Armour, of Franklin Mint. I used to collect diecast models, until I realize I could build a better model for a lesser price.
Anonymous
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5293072 Also try Dragon. They used to make 1/72 scale, pre-built diecast models. I remember them making several F-15s.
Anonymous
>>5293190 You know man, weathering isn't something that can be explained in a few 4chan posts. Just fucking google some tutorials, or look some up on youtube, you know, use your brain... There's plenty of them on youtube that you can watch to learn some basic techniques.
Anonymous
>>5293256 I mean I'm really not trying to be a dick here, but seriously, just look at some youtube videos, particularly ones from this guy who has quite a few videos on weathering with various chipping methods, as well as pigment weathering and washes / oils for streaking, rust, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNFwUnVfLwM8THyohoQXBAQ Anonymous
Been working on a Tamiya Ki-46 III Shintei-Hei, really neat aircraft that was modified from the standard Ki-46 reconnaissance aircraft and designed to target B-29s by using a 30mm gun mounted upwards to hit them from underneath.
Anonymous
The aluminum base color was done over a Tamiya X-1 base using AK's aluminum. I've used AK's newer metal paints a few times recently, and I really like them a lot better than standard Alclad paints. They just spray a lot better and are more hard / durable / thicker than alclad.
Anonymous
>>5293256 >>5293263 Sorry. I just feel overwhelmed. Are the mig 'transformation' sets a scam or are they worth it?
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5293452 No idea what that is, but most weathering can simply be done using standard pigments, like ground up pastels, or by using oil paints. Specialized weathering products like MIG's stuff is more expensive, but is probably better for beginners and easier to do overall. Just follow these simple rules for weathering; if you're using acrylic paints, use enamel products to weather. If you're using enamel or lacquer paints, use acrylics to weather with. Alternatively you can weather enamels with enamels if you place a thick gloss clear coat before you start weathering. Like I said, explaining how to weather is a very long and lengthy process, as there's multiple ways to weather different types of models. Aircraft weathering is very different from armor, and vice versa.
Look at OP's like to scalemodelguide as well, there are a few resources there for weathering as well. Like I also said earlier, youtube is a great resource, so use it, just search around and look for weathering videos for specific types of vehicles / aircraft and see what you can find.
Anonymous
>>5293395 just ordered some ak chrome to try, and some alclad grey primer to try that too, meant to be pretty idiot proof.
Anonymous
>>5293540 Never used Alclad's primer, but I did use their gloss black base a few times in the past... suffice to say I now only use Tamiya X-1 black as a base for metallics. Alclad's gloss just never seemed to cure completely, I let it sit for weeks and it still felt like it was never fully dried. Compared to Tamiya which dries within a few minutes and cures within a few hours, and you can handle it just fine while wearing gloves after it has cured.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5293644 I use Alclad's primer. It's bretty gud. The only problem I've experienced is whe I primed vinyl tyres. The primer flaked of if I squeezed a tyre. But it makes a really strong bond with plastic. But it's really toxic.
PanZerstorer !!7ZPO4Pih1DQ
Quoted By:
>>5293972 You can't use oil based paints on vinyl or rubber and anything you use will flake off if it is flexed.
>>5293540 Mr. Surfacer is the best primer around. It is foolproof when thinned with Mr. Levelling thinner. I use Mr. Suracer 1000 if I had to fill a bunch of gaps, but otherwise just Mr. Finishing Surfacer, black or grey.
Mr. Primer on the other hand is pretty bad.
Anonymous
Anonymous
>>5294028 stay in your gaypla thread, faggot
Anonymous
Anonymous
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>>5294168 troll thread, ignore it
Anonymous
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>>5294168 I see you're still trying.
Anonymous
Quoted By:
>>5293390 Why haven't you glued and filled the seams on the wings, and yet you sprayed alcad?
Anonymous
>>5294035 You do realise there is no actual requirement to make purely historical kits right.
Anonymous
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>>5294389 >not ignoring the shitposter Anonymous
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new thread niggas
>>5294431
