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Scale Model General

Anonymous Wed 12 Dec 2018 17:32:24 No.7284167 View View Reply Original Report

Previous thread: >>7241569

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

https://www.scalemates.com/

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 12 Dec 2018 22:49:54 No.7284594 Report

Quoted By: >>7284759 >>7285691

recent haul, I usually am very weary of italieri stuff since they have quality issues and old tools but this seemed pretty decent actually, they are also the only ones that make a Ju 86 kit as far as I know so that weighed in.
The tarangus kit seems pretty simple but well detailed as I'd expect. Looking forward to building both

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 00:08:32 No.7284759 Report

Quoted By: >>7285058

>ded in the water edition
Quickly done the second layer with chipping fluid. The problem is that I mixed the base one with a bit of pale blue to give a more "cold" look and it looks kinda weird with pure white hard chips on top of the new layer.
Now I'm deciding if I should bother with the third chipped layer that I planed, risking deactivating and poor adhesión if I don't use varnish but it's getting THICK. Or just do a misty white blend and leave it there and move on to the turret and seal it up.
>>7284594
That tunnan plane look cute, are going to do it in those UN missions in Africa?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 03:53:29 No.7285058 Report

Quoted By: >>7285374

>>7284759
I'm sorry, my dumb ass thought it a phone case for second there.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 11:19:53 No.7285374 Report

Quoted By:

>>7285058
Kek

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 15:40:33 No.7285524 Report

Quoted By: >>7285540

Just noticed there are a fuckton of model shops in Chile. Never knew my country was into this shit.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 16:05:04 No.7285540 Report

Quoted By: >>7285780

>>7285524
Yeah, there has been a boom lately, is really nice, some are quite overpriced tho. There is this fair that's done about twice a year at the Aerospace Museum, if you live in Stgo be sure to make a visit, basically every shop is there. There are even a pair of local companies that make putty and other accessories.
Still a Mirax lover tho.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 18:01:03 No.7285691 Report

Quoted By:

>>7284594
Tarangus Tunnan is ok, just be aware that it's short run style, if not an outright short run kit. So basically no locating tabs anywhere, most noticeable with the front wheel well. Gluing up the fuselage and then stick it in through the front (attached to the end of a stick with some blue-tac) might be the best idea.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 19:01:15 No.7285780 Report

Quoted By: >>7285866

>>7285540
Never knew about the museum thing, I'll visit it for sure. And yes, Mirax is amazing, but they are lacking a bit of variety, for ships they only have Dragon. They are focusing on Funko pop's. I salute you my fellow Chilean friend, wherever you are.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 13 Dec 2018 20:26:13 No.7285866 Report

Quoted By:

>>7285780
Yeah, Mirax has seen a steady decline, but for the stuff I look for (tanks and planes in 1/72, and humbrol enamel) it is still the place to go. Everyone seems crazy about MIG paints and products lately, not sure if it is a fad or they are here to stay.

A friend of mine is a big shipfag, never buys from them since the few ship kits they have are like 300% the price of importing them.

>Funko pop
Disgusting, at least gundams look interesting.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 16:31:05 No.7286990 Report

Quoted By:

bump?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 19:18:52 No.7287202 Report

Quoted By: >>7287271 >>7287525

Freehanding 1/72 camo is hard, man. Also it doesn't help that I mix my paint inside the airbrush paint cup. I aleays look at painting as an afterthought. I prefer building over painting. I look more into painting. How do you guys usually mix your paints? I have a few 10ml bottles from a vape shop that I plan on using for paint thinning but was too lazy to do that on this build plus didn't want to clean them.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 20:26:26 No.7287271 Report

Quoted By:

>>7287202
If it's something that doesn't really matter and I know that all the ingredient splay nice and so on then I might mix in the cup. For more serious work you can get tattoo ink mixing cups from China off of ebay, they're meant to be single use so you get them by the hundreds for nothing much. Or you can get a plastic palette form the nearest art supply store, some cleaning to re-use but it's usually not a big deal as long as the cups on it are rounded in the bottom.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 20:55:03 No.7287296 Report

Quoted By: >>7287312 >>7287528 >>7288618 >>7291147 >>7307451

Too poor to afford an airbrush, can I survive using only hand painting?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 21:04:52 No.7287312 Report

Quoted By: >>7287519

Does anyone know if this rocket pod (whatever it is, 68mm at least) is available in 1/72 somewhere? Or something largely like it at least? Best I've found so far is to plug the centre hole of a m260.

>>7287296
You can. but you probably want to start saving up.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 23:49:15 No.7287519 Report

Quoted By: >>7290038

>>7287312
Those are indeed 68mm SNEB rocket pods made my Matra, seem to be specially designed for the aircraft. Weird enough 7 versions do seem to exist.

http://tiikki.blogspot.com/2013/09/fouga-magister-in-finnish-air-force-and.html

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 23:51:16 No.7287525 Report

Quoted By: >>7288174

>>7287202
It looks really nice on those colors. Maybe go down on the pressure a little?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 14 Dec 2018 23:53:33 No.7287528 Report

Quoted By: >>7288618

>>7287296
Meh. You gonna have to invest on proper brushes and paint retarders anyways. Chinese airbrushs may be shit, but they do work and are dirt cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 05:56:19 No.7288174 Report

Quoted By:

>>7287525
I tried playing around with the pressure but I had problems with paint consistency. Sometimes it sprayed nice and sometimes it would spatter. I'm using a Badger 105 Patriot and have read online that it has problems because of the double tapered needle. I experienced this myself. When you pull back the needle you get no paint but after a certain point you get too much and that's a big problem when trying to work on suck a small model

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 06:48:04 No.7288237 Report

Quoted By: >>7288446

Using an Iwata Neo Air with Comart paints and it all seems to come out super wet

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 10:36:30 No.7288446 Report

Quoted By:

>>7288237
Nevermind, figured it out. Paint and Thinner weren't combining.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 15:13:21 No.7288618 Report

Quoted By: >>7288636 >>7289064

>>7287528
>>7287296
The airbrush is only half the equation. A good quality double action airbrush is a must, however equally as important is a good quality air compressor.

The ones sold in craft stores and hobby stores are shit. They are too weak and don't output the psi that is needed for good quality work. Ironically a good compressor is easy to find and are not too expensive compared to hobby grade units.

For my needs I use a 3.5 or 10 gallon compressor that was sold in big lots or other hardware stores. The compressor ran something like $20.00 They are better in quality, much more powerful, and are more cost effective then the hobby grade ones. All you need to add to the airbrush to adapt it to work on the compressor is a quick connect fitting to the air hose which you can find with the compressor for about 2 bucks. to save some cash you can also find a second hand one at a flea market or craigslist, although do some homework on the condition as the last thing you need to do is spend cash on a worn out lemon

Also they are a good investment as you can use them for other tasks as outside of airbrushing like filling car or bike tires, de dusting / cleaning computer and other electronics, filling up inflatable pool toys... etc

Something like pic related, harbor freight has them for little over $50.00. This would last you a lifetime

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 15:35:13 No.7288636 Report

Quoted By: >>7288964

>>7288618
>don't output the psi that is needed for good quality work
My noname Chinese hobby compressor happily spits out 30 PSI, so just how much pressure do you need and what the heck are you spraying, actual concrete or something?
There's also the question of noise and space. But sure, do look at the workshop compressors as well. There's no reason to rule them out categorically.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 20:40:17 No.7288964 Report

Quoted By: >>7289024

>>7288636
My norm is btwn 30 to 60psi. Depends on what I'm painting, what I'm painting it with, and the effect I'm going for.

As for subject matter, anything from a 1/35th scale tank model, 1/72nd scale submarine, 1/350th scale battleship, to a 1/6th scale RC all metal tank and lots of other stuff in between.

For Base coats / camo on average I use about 35 possibly 40psi. for more delicate work I may crank it down, but on average I like to have good level of psi as it propels the paint onto the surface in a quick and smooth manner. this in my experience also helps with some types of camo and shade weathering.

For base coating anything large i.e. 1/6th scale tank I use a Spray gun, then an airbrush for the camo and weather work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 21:18:30 No.7289024 Report

Quoted By: >>7289107 >>7289114

>>7288964
>i.e. 1/6th scale tank
Yeah, there we go. Not quite the kind of thing your everyday hobby compressor ever has to worry about.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 21:53:21 No.7289064 Report

Quoted By: >>7289107

>>7288618
Oh yeah, my life changed when I upgraded from my small art-compressor to a bigger one with a tank.
Just pointing out, if someone considers himself too poor to afford getting into airbrush, ebay chinese comp+double action airbrushes kit run for like 40 USD, and they do work.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 22:31:03 No.7289107 Report

Quoted By:

>>7289024
Yes, but I still use almost the same psi for the paint application. The only difference is the tool used, from spray gun for large plane surface, to an airbrush for applying a base coat on a 1/35.

>>7289064
This guy gets it

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 22:34:44 No.7289114 Report

Quoted By: >>7289130

>>7289024
Also another advantage a compressor tank gives you is constant psi. This is something that the small units don't offer. The small unit may give an initial push of 30psi, but after a few seconds of use, the psi drops. This can and will effect the airflow of the paint and the performance of the airbrush.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 22:44:05 No.7289130 Report

Quoted By: >>7289142 >>7289151

>>7289114
Any decent "hobby" compressor will also have a tank. You can get the cheapass Chinese standard compressor with one. Sure, there are ones without to buy too, and those aren't a good idea, but you don't need a garage compressor to get a tank.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 22:50:32 No.7289142 Report

Quoted By:

>>7289130
IMO the ones I've seen are just too small. If they work for you that's great.

It's one of those things were if you ever tried using a more heavy duty unit you will not go back

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 15 Dec 2018 22:53:58 No.7289151 Report

Quoted By:

>>7289130
Something like this is decent and will work https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV

but cost wise you might as well go for the garage unit as it's more cost effective, more durable, has better power, and like above is more versatile as you can use it for other tasks.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 15:45:12 No.7290008 Report

Quoted By: >>7291568

Some paint on the belly.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 16:29:46 No.7290038 Report

Quoted By: >>7291568

>>7287519
Good to know, seems like filling in an m260 is the way to go then.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 17:25:27 No.7290111 Report

Quoted By: >>7291572

I'm about to upgrade my compressor since my old one gave up, but I could use some help deciding on what to get. I use an Iwata hp-cs and I was thinking about getting the Sparmax tc620x, as I'd like it to last for a long time. Is that a good choice in it's price range?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 17:58:17 No.7290171 Report

Quoted By: >>7290182 >>7291582

Absolute madman

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO T-26 CAD & Mockup Side-by-side.jpg, 382KiB, 2382x930

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 17:59:03 No.7290172 Report

Quoted By: >>7290462 >>7290466 >>7290474 >>7291792 >>7295138

Progress on the T-26. I've machined most of the plates and threw together a quick mock up of some taped together.

Need to get started designing the angle irons to actually connect everything together. Got a couple weeks off work after Monday so I'd like to have most of the hull together by then.

Still working on making videos too...

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 18:03:51 No.7290182 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290171
And then if you want to see how the actual aircraft looked you have to cover most of that up.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 20:30:01 No.7290388 Report

Quoted By: >>7291580

Finally an Airfix 109 where the tail fin supports don't snap in two off the sprue

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 21:39:36 No.7290462 Report

Quoted By: >>7290528

>>7290172
Such and under appreciated tank although it was one of the most successful designs of the interwar period. Glad to see it getting some love

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 21:42:05 No.7290466 Report

Quoted By: >>7290528

>>7290172
looks cool. I also got some project update videos to drop this week too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 21:51:37 No.7290474 Report

Quoted By: >>7290528

>>7290172
Wait, are you the same guy from the last thread with all those 1/6th scale vehicles?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 22:43:14 No.7290528 Report

Quoted By: >>7290533 >>7291977

>>7290462
It is a cool little tank. Plus the riveted construction and smaller hull plates means it's feasible for me to build

>>7290466
just uploaded my first video, see below

>>7290474
nope, that guy is the post above you. I'm the dude from a few threads ago that spammed my incomplete 1/12 whippet build

First video is up lads,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F637x9pHpIg

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 16 Dec 2018 22:50:22 No.7290533 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290528
Interesting. Nice seeing two anons posting in these threads making their own large scale kits from scratch

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 07:08:43 No.7291147 Report

Quoted By: >>7296108 >>7307426

>>7287296
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0L3oINCu-o

Give a good idea on how to get started for cheap. There are some air compressors on amazon that are only about $100 and seem to work pretty well.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 10:23:44 No.7291255 Report

Quoted By: >>7291257

I probably should have posted this here rather than making my own thread which got ignored.

Does anyone know of any companies that do models similar to Metal Earth? They're pretty fun little things to build and are a bit out of the ordinary for scale model building. I wouldn't mind getting my hands on something similar that's a little bigger and more complex.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 10:32:12 No.7291257 Report

Quoted By: >>7291588

>>7291255
I wouldn't use this thread for those models, to answer your question I can't think of any other companies that make metal models like those

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 11:50:53 No.7291290 Report

Quoted By:

>tfw some anon posts a model so good that you are embarresed to post for the rest of the thread

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 15:53:33 No.7291458 Report

Quoted By: >>7291564 >>7291792

Decided to do preshading
>tamyia white is so thick the airbrush chokes out almost instantly
>AK vallejo and Mig airbrush white is too thin out of the bottle
>testors white just no
>krylon splotchy as all hell and a chalky texture
>Only real option is vallejo brush paint white I use for my minis
Why is white such a cunty color to work with?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:33:59 No.7291564 Report

Quoted By: >>7291706

>>7291458
>being shit at thinning
>not being good

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:36:07 No.7291568 Report

Quoted By: >>7291796

>>7290008
Looking really nice, the preshades really make a difference.

>>7290038
That's quite an interesting topic you building into tho, looking forward for it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:38:15 No.7291572 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290111
I can't speak for that specific comp, but as long as it has a tank and looks solid must be good.
Do compare prices around so you don't overpay for the brand name

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:41:33 No.7291580 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290388
That's quite a camo scheme, get yourself some masking tape it really helps with straight edges.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:42:50 No.7291582 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290171
It's impressive when you look at it that way. It's a guy sandwiched between two engines and some tubes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 17:46:46 No.7291588 Report

Quoted By: >>7291796

>>7291257
Not him, but I got one of those unassembled, wonder how would they look painted.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 19:27:59 No.7291706 Report

Quoted By:

>>7291564
Only one of those is an issue with thinning and tamyia white paint has always been ass to work with

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 20:31:34 No.7291792 Report

Quoted By: >>7291807 >>7291977 >>7307430

Finished the winter wash yesterday while I had a few free hours and it's becoming an eyesore to see this sitting forever in the table. Now onto varnish and doing the wheels and tracks which is something I don't really look forward
>>7290172
>that's a big tank
>>7291458
While thinning correctly and building up the color would solve those problems with the tamiya/ammo/ak/vallejo paints, so far the best white I used is the gaianotes regular white (specifically the big ex jar but the small one should be the same afaik) in pigment, coverage and durability.
Also using tamiya lacquer thinner/mr leveling thinner eases airbrushing and thinning in general but
>muh handling lacquers
so up to you here, second best white is the vallejo model color one both with their acrylic airbrush thinner or with lacquer thinner worked flawlessly for me so it's a viable option rather than going though the hassle of procuring gaianotes paints

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 20:36:13 No.7291796 Report

Quoted By: >>7291829

Finally my decals showed up. Pretty colourful for a tank (to be filtered down), I guess friendly fire might have been a bigger worry than enemy action at this point in the war.
It isn't a lot, but the original tank in question is seen for a bit at the 7 and 33 second marks here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjF2rjwqC5c

>>7291568
>That's quite an interesting topic you building into tho, looking forward for it.
By most standards what I'm looking to build in the end is probably quite a bit more obscure than a Finnish Fouga even. God knows the kit itself, if I can find one, is far from ever gracing ScaleMates "It's hot" list. A (long?) OOP rebox from a "Who?" manufacturer of something originally sold in a bag by another "Who?".
I'm gonna end up with a vacuform kit one of these days, ain't I?

As for the Viggen, I feel I've gotten rather more comfortable with making things intentionally uneven (by airbrush or oil dotting) since about the Harrier. And it seems to carry through in the results. Looking at how the HMS PoW turned out it might be time to go back to the Kirishima and oil her up some more some day.

>>7291588
Not very good would be my guess. Since it aims at ease of assembly from flat sheets (tank a'la Kamprad) at the cost of things like accuracy and details it doesn't really cut it as a scale model kit. So doing things that diminishes the shiny metal appeal while making the comparison to scale model kits closer at hand would probably not do it any favours.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 20:43:26 No.7291807 Report

Quoted By: >>7291829

>>7291792
>Now onto varnish
This is about where I'd normally expect you to start breaking down the whitewash. That expectation thus subverted it'll be interesting to see what the other expected bits (or their replacements/absence) makes of things.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 20:59:29 No.7291829 Report

Quoted By: >>7291843 >>7292358

>>7291796
>I honestly though the white markings in the side was in katakana
t-t-time do lay down the weaboo trash a bit before it takes over me.
I thought you where going to build a tunnan and not a magister or maybe I mistake it with another anon?
>>7291807
I wanted this to be a "freshly" applied one, like two three weeks old at most so I can justify the hard edges keeping the shape. Although I retouched them to look more jagged along playing with layers to make the wash interesting and used yet intact (if that makes sense to you) I won't work it anymore, or at most with oils latter on If I see it too toned down with grime.
I'm a bit tired of seeing highly eroded winter wash vehicles done all the time so I wanted a more "solid" one for variety sake

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 21:11:04 No.7291843 Report

Quoted By: >>7291850

>>7291829
Tunnan's another anon, I was the one providing some attempts at helpful tips. (Tunnan carried its rockets loose btw, not in pods.)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 21:19:33 No.7291850 Report

Quoted By: >>7291878

>>7291843
I see, I just saw a swedish plane and assumed it was you. You two could make a congo war mini group build of sorts

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 21:41:41 No.7291878 Report

Quoted By:

>>7291850
I'm aiming at the Nigeria-Biafra crisis rather, but I guess if our schedules match up it'd make for a nice "Swedish adventures in Darkest Africa" bit. If anyone wants to build a Greyhound Swedish forces captured a pair and put them into service during the Congo affair ( https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:GAK_M8_Greyhound.jpg ). A few M113 as well, God knows form where, in decidedly un-Swedish (but I guess very UN-Swedish) camo: https://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1215&sid=0c840247431f12c0b3b0327bf44b9101
(Or we put a really generous time-frame on it all and back date the start to include the Congo-Tunnan I built a bit over two years ago. It's due a re-build some day as I hope I'm quite a bit better now, but it'll be a while)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 17 Dec 2018 22:51:22 No.7291977 Report

Quoted By:

>>7291792
>for you

>>7290528
banged out a 2nd video before I get too drunk. They're now caught up to where I am on the build. I'll also take it easy on shilling my shit, every now and then I'll drop in a picture update here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZoHyOo4sE4

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 18 Dec 2018 04:08:21 No.7292358 Report

Quoted By:

>>7291829
>lay down the weaboo trash
sure.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 18 Dec 2018 17:20:53 No.7292887 Report

Quoted By: >>7292893

hello, so firts time doing masking and i have a question, i just peeled off the masking tape from pic related's model and it look really good, but some of the glue from the tape stuck to the model and some parts are quite sticky, how could i clean that off? every paint is Vallejo acrylics

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Dec 2018 17:26:34 No.7292893 Report

Quoted By: >>7293059

>>7292887
That sounds like bad tape, or did you leave it on for weeks?. Heck knows what solvent might dissolve that without chewing through acrylics. Maybe try lifting it off with some tape, and if that doesn't do it hitting it with some enamel thinner/turpentine/white spirits and hoping that does it as the acrylics are at least somewhat resistant to those.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 18 Dec 2018 19:44:25 No.7293059 Report

Quoted By:

>>7292893
man thank you, just used some tape to pick up the residues and it worked inmediately, great tip

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 11:47:19 No.7293530 Report

Quoted By: >>7293550 >>7293557

What do you use to sand?
I was thinking nail files, good idea?
Not really sure what roughness i need to get.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 12:23:24 No.7293550 Report

Quoted By: >>7293555

>>7293530
What will you be sanding?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 12:26:24 No.7293555 Report

Quoted By:

>>7293550
Sorry just plastic nubs and glued seamlines, etc

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 12:28:23 No.7293557 Report

Quoted By: >>7293563

>>7293530
go to any hardware store and get wet sandpaper, its just like regular sandpaper and can be used as one, but it can also be dipped on water to soften it and make everything better.
Grab 400, something between 600 and 800, and some of the finer they have usually, 1200 or 1600.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 12:35:41 No.7293563 Report

Quoted By:

>>7293557
Will try it, thanks.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 14:11:30 No.7293607 Report

Quoted By: >>7293614

So I want to start with military scale model (done with gunpla) Hasegawa ones look cool, any suggestions?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 14:23:07 No.7293614 Report

Quoted By: >>7293618

>>7293607
Hasegawa has plenty of decent to good kit,s but they also have some ancient relics in their lineup. And they're far form unique here, generally speaking you want to look up reviews and such for specific kits, not just for a maker in general.

As for where to start, well, what do you want to build? Any scale preferences at all?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 14:28:27 No.7293618 Report

Quoted By: >>7293631

>>7293614
WW2 aircrafts. No specific scale but the easier the better.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 14:51:06 No.7293631 Report

Quoted By: >>7294472 >>7295651

>>7293618
The two main aircraft scales are 1/72 and 1/48. The latter is probably a bit more popular. I'd say either should work out fine for a beginner. Now as for researching kits, scalemates is your first stop. Search up stuff, and then look at the history. The important thing is "new tool", that's when the kit is actually made. Generally speaking, shit's improved over time, though some companies (looking at you Dragon) have just stopped trying at various points in their existence. I'd say that in general a Hasegawa kit from the nineties and onwards should be ok, a Tamiya form the same time period better (their Zeroes are wonderful), and if you want something ok but cheap then you could for example look towards the last decade of Airfix. With all though, try looking for some specific reviews/build logs of the specific kits, they can both tell you how good that specific kit is and sometimes give you some tips on things.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 23:07:47 No.7294420 Report

Quoted By: >>7294591

Does anyone know a good way to make bullet holes in the fuselage of a plane? I was thinking of using a heated sewing needle to do the job, but I really don't know if that's the best way or not.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 23:39:21 No.7294472 Report

Quoted By:

>>7293631
I agree with this anon. Airfix has some nice starter sets, just to have a test of what the hobby is about. The other day I got the starter set Harrier Gr9 1/72 and I never imagined this thing could be so fun. Already ordered more models lol

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 19 Dec 2018 23:44:30 No.7294486 Report

Quoted By:

what the fuck lads, why are humbrol acrylics so cheap? are they a meme?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48416243_1109358519224857_161195 (...).jpg, 286KiB, 2048x1404

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:07:50 No.7294543 Report

Quoted By: >>7294548 >>7294614

Got this one done the other day. Dragon Dicker Max. Mostly stock, but replaced the stock link and length with workable from friulmodel.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48377378_1109358195891556_638252 (...).jpg, 110KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:09:04 No.7294548 Report

Quoted By: >>7294551 >>7294599

>>7294543

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48399053_1109350722558970_527024 (...).jpg, 50KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:10:07 No.7294551 Report

Quoted By: >>7294555

>>7294548

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48371873_1109354965891879_796652 (...).jpg, 94KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:11:34 No.7294555 Report

Quoted By:

>>7294551

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:22:25 No.7294591 Report

Quoted By: >>7295815

>>7294420
yeah, depending on the scale either a heated needle or a soldering iron would do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:24:27 No.7294599 Report

Quoted By:

>>7294548
Really like the color variations on the armored hull. A bit too clean for my taste, but that's just me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:31:12 No.7294614 Report

Quoted By: >>7294636

>>7294543
Nice little too clean for me and you got something funky going on near the kill markers. I’m also one of those autist who prefers panzer grey to be darker, but it kills detail even if it’s closer to the correct shade. Dicker Max is also probably the only german tank I would call ugly so that may be my bias speaking

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 17862560_740812256079487_4018288 (...).jpg, 108KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:42:43 No.7294636 Report

Quoted By: >>7294640 >>7294662

>>7294614
>Darker panzer grey,
On this one I wanted to go darker than my usual shade I've used in the past. Which I did do compared to pic related. I'm not into the dust and dirt weathering... just not my style.

As for the barrel it's a small paint fragment, that I removed after the pics were taken

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:44:03 No.7294639 Report

Quoted By: >>7294804 >>7295821 >>7296132

>models that are “special” versions of vehicles like super specific date/location or in foreign service, but is a preexisting kit with a different set of decals for double the price
Why and who buys these?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 41729138_1050653665095343_439762 (...).jpg, 333KiB, 2048x1271

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:44:38 No.7294640 Report

Quoted By: >>7295674 >>7301404

>>7294636
Or this one

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 00:53:32 No.7294662 Report

Quoted By: >>7294721

>>7294636
The light grey is definitely a much more appealing color and allows for far more detail. I’m just looking at it from the prospective of someone who spends hours digging through obscure websites, old records, and translating shit just to figure out what color every insignificant part should be, which usually just to learn to it varies or nobody bothered to record it.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 01:14:53 No.7294721 Report

Quoted By:

>>7294662
Also keep in mind that pics look very different than viewing in person. I like both shades and both shades are acceptable. It does help to tinker with different shades as it helps with preventing your entire collection looking the same, and stale.

As another person who does the same digging on the same websites, I can see that like with US OD, there are several shades of the same color due to different paint batches, suppliers, materials... etc which even though they are german standard panzer grey there will be variations btwn the two. Not to mention how sun faded or weathered the tanks is can also play into the paint shade difference

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 02:03:00 No.7294804 Report

Quoted By:

>>7294639
If it's only decals it's a rip-off, if it has got extra parts it means some extra tooling for that specific kit, which given it's a super weird unicorn means it would sell less than the main variant, so tooling cost and design would have to be distributed between a lesser amount of units sold but at a higher price.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 05:35:37 No.7295138 Report

Quoted By:

>>7290172
Very cool anon.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 14:54:14 No.7295651 Report

Quoted By:

>>7293631
Thank you anon.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 15:11:35 No.7295674 Report

Quoted By:

>>7294640
Your tanks look great, and personally i like the brighter grey because, as someone said, it just looks better and shows details better, but panzer grey was darker in reality. Its the dust and bright earth that made tanks look so bright on b/w pics.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:12:32 No.7295815 Report

Quoted By: >>7295835

>>7294591
the main thing I'm worried about is the melted plastic dripping or oozing out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:16:03 No.7295821 Report

Quoted By: >>7295856

>>7294639
Depends on how hard it'd be to get equivalent decals elsewhere I'd say.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO A11C85A1-9DB9-4029-AEE5-5805E176 (...).jpg, 2MiB, 3264x2448

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:23:28 No.7295835 Report

Quoted By: >>7295871

>>7295815
This is my testing of a soddening iron on a spare PZIV. The plastic has always just surrounded the head and has never gone oozing out the other side. You would have to clean the area around holes, larger one can be cleaned up with a knife while smaller ones can be taken care of with a quick high grit sanding

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:34:21 No.7295856 Report

Quoted By: >>7295859

>>7295821
Even then the decals at least for vehicles in foreign service are usually just a case of one nations marking over another.
most modelers will have spare decals from other kits laying around I know I have a ton of german and soviet markings with a few US markings laying around.
If it’s some special vehicle like wittman’s tiger or pic then it would probably be far more cost effective to just look for a 10 USD decal sheet then paying or 100 USD for a kit with a few different decals

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 49AAE22B-37CF-48BE-9105-F894727D (...).jpg, 50KiB, 600x350

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:35:38 No.7295859 Report

Quoted By:

>>7295856
Forgot pic

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:45:42 No.7295871 Report

Quoted By: >>7296607

>>7295835
hmm I'll give it a try someday. thanks for the advice and tips.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 17:58:44 No.7295885 Report

Quoted By: >>7297124

Anyone have references to the henschel Tiger I during its testing against the Porsche design? My references state that the vehicle either lacked a turret or had mounted one that was latter cancelled.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 20:42:04 No.7296108 Report

Quoted By: >>7296116

>>7291147
https://www.amazon.ca/Double-Action-Airbrush-Compressor-Dual-Action-Regulator/dp/B014OIC95M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545218891&sr=8-4&keywords=airbrush

I bought this one as a starter and it's decent. Can do high psi or low. The airbrush is double-action and not terrible. For something cheap and fully contained, ready to go it's worth it. Maybe replace the airbrush itself a little later for one a bit better. I did a 1/350 Bismarck with it using only water for thinner, miniature paint acrylics, and barely any maintenance so it worked under fairly primitive conditions. If you use airbrush thinner and airbrush cleaning solution it should give a lot of use, it's just probably not going to have quite the finesse of a better brush. The compressor itself seems perfectly good and consistent psi, the brush is just a bit cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 20:46:41 No.7296116 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296108
Ah yes, the standard Chinese noname stuff. See if you can get the variant with a tank on the compressor, but overall it'll do.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 20:58:49 No.7296132 Report

Quoted By: >>7296165 >>7305579

>>7294639
Only 1-2k Golden eagles, what a steal! )))))))))))))))))))))))))

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 21:12:24 No.7296165 Report

Quoted By: >>7296405

>>7296132
How are things on Warthunder General? Not been to that wasteland in a while.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_0085.jpg, 208KiB, 1152x864

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 22:24:54 No.7296276 Report

Quoted By: >>7296287

majority of the hull is together

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 22:31:44 No.7296287 Report

Quoted By: >>7296309

>>7296276
What variant of the t-26 are you going for anyway?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO T_26M32_4.jpg, 443KiB, 1972x1324

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 22:46:07 No.7296309 Report

Quoted By: >>7296327

>>7296287
the dumbest one

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO CD247A34-96E5-4472-926E-0818800B (...).jpg, 69KiB, 600x369

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 22:56:20 No.7296327 Report

Quoted By: >>7296334 >>7296366

>>7296309
>dumbest one

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:02:29 No.7296334 Report

Quoted By: >>7296366

>>7296327
Alternatively

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:31:00 No.7296366 Report

Quoted By: >>7296374 >>7296377

>>7296327
is that even real? or have I just never seen the flamethrower one from that side?

>>7296334
someone did a banging scratchbuild of that in 1/35 over at armorama

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:36:54 No.7296374 Report

Quoted By: >>7296382

>>7296366
nvm, just googled it. Didn't realize it had an MG next to the flamethrower. kinda want to make that variant now. your'e a bad influence

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:38:49 No.7296377 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296366
There are a handful of flame thrower variants.
http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2/soviet/t-26-chemical-tanks

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:41:08 No.7296382 Report

Quoted By: >>7296424

>>7296374
It’s the same basic hull only difference would be the roof if you want to change the model.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:53:14 No.7296405 Report

Quoted By: >>7296413

>>7296165
I don't even play Grind Thunder anymore

supersonic jets, and pasta tanks, big deal.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 20 Dec 2018 23:58:18 No.7296413 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296405
Always preferred the lower BRs my self now can’t even play a PZIV H or M4 76 without fighting tanks from the 50s ad 60s

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 00:05:35 No.7296424 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296382
found and saved a large blueprint of it. The hull over the drivers compartment is also a little different, there's a hatch that isn't present on the one I made. Still relatively small changes. Plus, only need to make 1 turret instead of 2.
Something I'll think about, currently trying to prioritize my next few steps

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 02:11:39 No.7296607 Report

Quoted By: >>7296713

>>7295871
Just curious. what plane model do you plan on giving the bullet treatment to?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 03:27:25 No.7296713 Report

Quoted By: >>7298225

>>7296607
One day I'm going to make a small Diorama of Captain Freuler of VMF-211 in an F3F Wildcat shooting down a Nakajima B5N over Wake Island. The B5N will have the bullet holes in it.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48388901_1109581965869179_287297 (...).jpg, 314KiB, 1728x1296

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 04:40:33 No.7296817 Report

Quoted By: >>7296820 >>7297359

Got the tinwork completed, now working on the fifel canisters

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48423083_1109582342535808_476139 (...).jpg, 98KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 04:43:31 No.7296820 Report

Quoted By: >>7296822 >>7297359

>>7296817

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48387514_1109582462535796_143936 (...).jpg, 132KiB, 960x720

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 04:45:19 No.7296822 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296820
I also completed the side hull track removal cable mounts, just finishing off the welds and then I can post a video.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 11:24:45 No.7297124 Report

Quoted By: >>7297354

>>7295885
VK3601H ?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 16:40:36 No.7297354 Report

Quoted By:

>>7297124
I’m looking for the tiger I during its test trials at Rastenburg basically the final preproduction Tiger Im assuming it would look very similar to the initial production variant, but that’s where the problem comes in from the Vk3601 being cancelled to production there is a supprising lack of coherent information.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 16:47:02 No.7297359 Report

Quoted By: >>7297677 >>7297679

>>7296817
>>7296820
Neat. Ever do any curved tin work? I'll have to tackle that for the T-26s fenders. My current idea is to mill some wooden forms then take some thin brass sheet and hammer it into shape

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC00203.jpg, 146KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 21:26:26 No.7297677 Report

Quoted By: >>7297887

>>7297359
I've done it a few times, on the Sherman M3 Lee. But I think the most difficult rounded surfaces I've done so far were on the M26 Pershing rear fenders

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC00200.jpg, 144KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 21:28:19 No.7297679 Report

Quoted By: >>7297887 >>7298652

>>7297359
Your idea is similar on how I would make the same part and would work. Luckily from what I've seen the tinwork on the is pretty easy, as tin work goes,

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSC00519.jpg, 3MiB, 2816x2112

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 21:30:41 No.7297685 Report

Quoted By: >>7301947

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 21 Dec 2018 23:47:12 No.7297887 Report

Quoted By: >>7297909

>>7297677
>>7297679
Alright good, I'll keep designing for using that method and see how it goes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 00:00:02 No.7297909 Report

Quoted By: >>7297920 >>7298580

>>7297887
Protip, Unless you have access to lots of brass that's cheap, use galvanized sheet steel. this is the material I use and is found in home depot in the HVAC ductwork section. It's thin, very workable, and solders easy. It'a also cheaper then brass.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 00:04:27 No.7297920 Report

Quoted By:

>>7297909
>picrelated

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 04:01:59 No.7298225 Report

Quoted By:

>>7296713
That sounds neat anon. Post it here if you ever do it!

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20181222_001839.jpg, 3MiB, 4032x3024

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 05:36:45 No.7298336 Report

Quoted By: >>7298380 >>7298580

God this looks like shit. Should I keep it going? I already lost the radar whatever on the nose and the greenhouse has a really bad gap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 06:31:23 No.7298380 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298336
I would say soldier on a lot of this could be fixed or covered up and the practice never hurts.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 10:33:18 No.7298580 Report

Quoted By: >>7298610 >>7298811

I thought I had put in a decent bit of colour variation with oils, especially on this side of the turret, but heck knows where that went. Done for now regardless though. Some day I guess I'll get decent at wrangling around the lighter dust pigment.

>>7297909
>galvanized sheet steel
Do you strip the galvanisation, use a mask, or does the soldering simply not make enough zinc fumes to notice?

>>7298336
Keep going, trains both your skills and grit. If I'm seeing it right many of the issues with the borders between colour fields in the camo may be due to you having put down a bit too much paint in one go, leaving wet paint to seep in under the masking and building up a thick layer that didn't always break right at the mask's edge.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 11:20:16 No.7298610 Report

Quoted By: >>7299049

>>7298580
Uhm, yeah, I might have forgotten something there....

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 11:21:17 No.7298611 Report

Quoted By:

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 12:48:46 No.7298652 Report

Quoted By: >>7298811

>>7297679
do i remember this right and you sell these tanks you build?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 14591701_644083859085661_6113021 (...).jpg, 54KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 16:23:34 No.7298811 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298580
No I use the metal as is. The zinc actually makes solder stick better than if being done with standard sheet steel. I've never had any issues with the fumes that you are referencing, probably because I'm using a soldering iron.

For flux I use pluming flux, and for the solder I use the thin gage 60/40 electrical solder. Because it's thin, it melts quick, cools fast, and is pin point and can be used with precision.

>>7298652
yes and no. The models I build for myself are never sold, but I do take on commission builds

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181218_135845.jpg, 2MiB, 4160x3120

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 16:32:30 No.7298815 Report

Quoted By: >>7298819 >>7298827 >>7298850 >>7298898 >>7298909

I found a hobbyboss pz 38t that I was working on and abandoned
The tracks suck balls, are the metal tracks I see around the web worth the 25 euros?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 16:38:12 No.7298819 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298815
Friultracks are quite nice. If they're worth the money to you, well, that's all up to you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 16:46:31 No.7298827 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298815
>Friultracks
Yes they are awesome, and worth every dime. But you will need a micro demel bit and a pin vise to help enlarge the molded in pin holes.

Masterclub tracks look great too and look to require less prepwork. Either way both companies are highly recommended.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 17:15:41 No.7298850 Report

Quoted By: >>7298880

>>7298815
Friultracks are great, but It depends on if the model it’s self deserves them I personally wouldn’t buy them unless the kit is of a favorite vehicle, the kit was meant for something special, and I wouldn’t get them for a older or budget build kit like old dragon stuff, trumpeters KVs or cyberhobby reboxes.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 17:50:33 No.7298880 Report

Quoted By: >>7298983

>>7298850
>Not using Friultracks on old Dragon budget builds.

I disagree somewhat. I've been building lots of older Dragon budget builds lately and I hate with a passion those shitty indie links, and will NEVER use them. So AM tracks are a must.

In most cases Friultracks are the only option and are a needed to finish the build, yes they are in some cases more expensive then the starter kit itself and if there are other more cost effective plastic workable or rubber track options available I would go for those, but if there is no other option I'm going to roll with the Friultracks with no questions asked. Also if the kit was bought on the cheap you are still making out in a way.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:08:07 No.7298898 Report

Quoted By: >>7298909

>>7298815
Entirely depends on the kit and subject. If the tracks are shit then buy aftermarket ones. I wouldn't buy aftermarket tracks for lets say an Academy Hetzer but would for a Hobbyboss pz 38t

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:14:57 No.7298905 Report

Quoted By: >>7298940 >>7298968 >>7299078

>>7284167

So... This is kind of random but I have pic related coming in the mail. Usually, all the models I get I don't open and what I end up doing is just displaying the box. Pretty much all my vinyl, models, figures etc I display with box. However I want to actually try and build this, I have little to no model building experience. I do have an associate in metal machining and numerical control and have a deburring business where I knock off edges, but I don't know how well that will translate into plastics. My question is more towards the actual painting and adding weathering, is this a skill that anyone with practice can get good with or is it like drawing where some people know how to draw really well and some people, no matter how much they try, their drawing sucks? Are there techniques that can be learned? As far as difficulty goes, how hard would it be for a starting to build and paint said model?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:16:17 No.7298909 Report

Quoted By: >>7298915

>>7298815
>>7298898

The tracks are nice, but they are very delicate (especially if the vehicle is not a big Tiger etc) and annoying to build together.

For expensive kits they are usually worth it, depending on the actual visibility. I wouldn't bother with metal tracks on a Hetzer or Stug if i intend to add the side-skirts to hide them..

If i have a fairly cheap model then i like the idea of getting a track kit and add some cheap plastic "aftermarket" parts in tank shape to them..

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:18:44 No.7298915 Report

Quoted By: >>7298968 >>7299007

>>7298909
Friul tracks would be just as frustrating to build as the kit tracks.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO neuspinne-01_.jpg, 55KiB, 650x488

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:37:01 No.7298940 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298905

Those kits are for advanced model makers

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 18:57:43 No.7298968 Report

Quoted By: >>7298974

>>7298905
I'd say just about anyone who isn't hopelessly lost when you put a tool in his hand (and with your job you shouldn't be) can reach decent competence with a bit of practice. (And no one will get there without practice.) I wouldn't expect any noticeable transfer of skills from your job though. If you want a look into what can go into building, painting and weathering a kit look up Plasmo on youtube. Keep in mind that the weathering is somewhat optional, and leans more towards art than craft in many ways.

That does not look like a beginner friendly kit.

>>7298915
Frustrating is pretty far form my (one...) experience with friuls. Took some time to drill 'em, but that's just volume. If you want to see me frustrated then get some single-link tracks that don't want to stay together or have set a bit too much for bending or otherwise just don't fucking work properly.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:01:55 No.7298974 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298968
I built an Italeri Panther G with the anti-aircraft armor on the turret which is basically an old Dragon kit with those god awful single link tracks that come on the sprues. I know what frustration is. I have Friul Panther D tracks in my stash and I haven't built them them yet but U bet they aren't as easy as magic tracks or link and length tracks

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:03:07 No.7298976 Report

Quoted By: >>7299052 >>7299085 >>7299093

I'm totally new to this, but I'd like to build a model of my shipfu Kumano. Apparently my only option is a 1/700 kit from Tamiya, is it feasible for a total newbie? Also, I've seen on scalemates that there's an upgrade set that costs like 4 times the base model, but I can't find any information about it. What is it for?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:13:33 No.7298983 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298880
Eh that’s just my taste and I’ve learned to deal with dragons tree based indie links as long as they aren’t smaller then a panzer III’s, if they are like the old hetzer dragon insist on reusing or just shit like the old tamyia tracks I still don’t go for Fruil as my first choice. I tend to just go looking around on eBay which usually turns up some spare tracks from more modern kits.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:34:16 No.7299007 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298915
They are only frustrating if you don't enlarge the pin holes. If this is done this simplifies the build immensely

The best way is with a pin vise and a micro dremel bit or even a sewing pin.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:57:28 No.7299049 Report

Quoted By: >>7299056

>>7298610
Looks good, maybe take a photo with some more light?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 19:59:00 No.7299052 Report

Quoted By: >>7299085 >>7299103

>>7298976
>is it feasible for a total newbie?
It's probably a pretty ok place to start on ship models. Ship models can have a lot of small bits, but with Tamiya things usually fit together quite well, so just be careful and methodical about it and everythign should work out fine. The one big thing to watch out for is painting the deck, you'll probably wan to do that before sticking on all to much of the smaller stuff, and plenty of the smaller stuff may then be best painted before being glued on. Sadly the exact best way to go about it is largely a matter of personal preference guided by experience.

>Also, I've seen on scalemates that there's an upgrade set that costs like 4 times the base model, but I can't find any information about it. What is it for?
Injection moulded plastic has a lower limit on how thin and fine you can make things. Scale a ship down to 1/7000 and a lot of stuff ends up smaller than that, meaning they have to be made too thick or left out. The details up kit consists of extra and replacement parts made out of thin brass sheet instead (usually called photoetch or just PE since that's the manufacturing method), because you can make shit a lot smaller with that. The https://www.scalemates.com/kits/960720-five-star-model-fs710048-ijn-heavy-cruiser-kumano-1937-upgrade-set one is very comprehensive by the looks of it, everything that isn't grey plastic in the photo there is the detail up kit. Probably about as beginner friendly as a red hot rasp up your ass. Around your second or third kit or so though I'd recommend starting to add at least PE railings, but for your very first kit even that is probably quite a bit of overkill. Same with rigging.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:01:29 No.7299056 Report

Quoted By: >>7299096 >>7305575

>>7299049
I might try juggling a desk lamp as well here (maybe buying a decent headlamp would be an idea some day), or I'll go pester my friends who have a clue about cameras about manual mode and make the tripod do some work. The sun certainly isn't going to be any help until late February or so.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1456123624492.jpg, 77KiB, 887x1097

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:21:18 No.7299078 Report

Quoted By:

>>7298905
>Buying kit, only to display the box.

It's mostly practice and not skipping steps (thin your paints), nor materials, get primer, get the varnishes, etc . Unless you are going for a fancy free-hand camo or something like that there is nothing your average joe can't do, and even that can be iterated if you follow the correct techniques.

That specific kit is a rather complex one tho, I would recommend you getting a cheaper easier kit, an airfix 1/76 for example so you can display them together, so you can try everything before giving it a go.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:25:51 No.7299085 Report

Quoted By: >>7299103

>>7298976
>>7299052
Listen to that man. Get that ship and build it. If you have questions along the way just post here, if possible with pics and there will be some help.
Don't bother with expensive aftermarket stuff for your first couple of kits!

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 6UrzLc6.jpg, 27KiB, 360x360

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:32:50 No.7299093 Report

Quoted By: >>7299103

>>7298976
You will have no problems with 1/700 ships, and Tamiya ones are fine, it's fun how those waterline look like they are sailing over your desk when in display.
Small scale ships are a fun topic, you can assemble and paint one with minimum skill and they will turn out just fine, yet high-skill shipfags can go balls to the wall and make them look impressive, that's what the upgrade set is for, don't worry about it now, really.

I assume you don't have an airbrush, be sure to get a nice flat brush and a detail one (artstores are your friends), and a can primer.
Don't thin your paints with water, use proper thinner.
If you can get your hands on some thin masking tape it will help you a lot too.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:35:35 No.7299096 Report

Quoted By: >>7305575

>>7299056
During post processing I can fix almost everything on a photo, colors, contrast, dust, you name it, but low light is impossible to fix.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:40:14 No.7299103 Report

Quoted By: >>7299119 >>7299121 >>7299193 >>7299965

>>7299052
>>7299085
>Probably about as beginner friendly as a red hot rasp up your ass.
As much as I love the Kumano, I guess I'll pass on it then.
>The one big thing to watch out for is painting the deck, you'll probably wan to do that before sticking on all to much of the smaller stuff, and plenty of the smaller stuff may then be best painted before being glued on.
I tried to read the recommended stuff, I think I read cement and paint don't go well together, so I should use some kind of superglue for the small thingies, right?
>>7299093
Thanks for the tips on painting, being quite dextrous I'm not really scared about putting everything together, it's mainly the painting part that seems difficult.
How many different paint colours will I need more or less? And where can I find good reference material?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:53:56 No.7299119 Report

Quoted By: >>7299439

>>7299103
The kit instructions come with references for the colors, in Tamiya paints, most important than the exact color is that you have easy access for the paints an thinners so unless you are ordering everything online check your local hobbystores first and see what they sell around.
Unless you plan to build more kits (You should) there are some colors you will only use for small bits like the golden and silver parts, so it's up to you. Hull grey, white, black, waterline red and wood for the deck are a must tho.

>being quite dextrous I'm not really scared about putting everything together
Get thin cement tho. Trust me.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 20:54:59 No.7299121 Report

Quoted By: >>7299439

>>7299103
I forgot link:
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10034041

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 22 Dec 2018 22:18:30 No.7299193 Report

Quoted By: >>7299439

>>7299103
There might be times where I'd go for cement to stick on painted small bits, but superglue is probably your best default here.

For paints you'll want black, white, hull red, IJN grey, a deck linoleum red-brown, deck tan, some iron/gunmetal looking thing and red. Some different greys are called for in the instructions but those should be pretty simply to mix.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO gunbarrels.jpg, 8KiB, 154x95

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 01:32:05 No.7299439 Report

Quoted By: >>7299488 >>7299676

>>7299119
>>7299193
>unless you are ordering everything online check your local hobbystores first and see what they sell around.
I live in Europe and the local stores don't seem to carry much, so I'll probably end up buying online.
From what I've seen, Amazon carries cement, primers and those diluted accent color from tamiya with prices in line with american shops so I should be okay with those. For the paints I found a shop from my country that sells navajo dirt cheap, but I don't know if the quality is okay.
>>7299121
Thank you, this will definitely help. I was thinking more about historical camouflage, though. I've seen that she is striped on the model box, and I didn't know that was a thing for Kumano, so I was wondering whether that was accurate and so on.
Reading the instructions I got a new question: since it says "remove" in pic related will I need a drill for the gun barrels?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 02:08:20 No.7299488 Report

Quoted By:

>>7299439
>For the paints I found a shop from my country that sells navajo dirt cheap, but I don't know if the quality is okay.
Regular Vallejo are usually very good for brush painting, though their metallics are usually a bit iffy I think. The Air line is for air brushing and it does mostly work, but I much prefer Tamiya and Mr Paint. The less said or thought about their airbrush primer the better. If you grab the panel line accents then get some enamel thinner as well to wipe off excess with, or you can just make your own with enamel paints and thinner or with oil paints and white spirits/turpentine (enamel thinner might work as well there? I'll have to try some day.)
There's plenty of European mail order shops as well beyond just amazon. Der Sockelshop, Modellbau König, Alfa hobby and Super-hobby have all worked nicely for me.

Heck knows about the camouflage. The IJN seldom seems to have bothered with such, and there's nothing about it in the painting instructions. So odds are all grey would be accurate for the ship at least at some point in its life, and then perhaps it was camouflaged at some other point. The exact colours and patterns in that case is a bit of a question mark though.
As for the gun barrels I can't say for certain without seeing a good picture of the plastic, but I'm guessing there will be some extra "stubs" of plastic at the muzzles where they injected the plastic or some such. If Tamiya wants you to drill they usually say drill. That said, the barrels are probably solid, so ideally you'd drill even without begin told to. Proper scale calibre is 2.2mm though, so a 2mm drill bit. That's small even for scale modellers, but they do exist. An alternative would be to just drill in a small dent with the tip of a hobby knife or hypodermic needle.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 04:15:51 No.7299676 Report

Quoted By:

>>7299439
>need a drill for the gun barrels?
Yes, although at that scale you could also paint the tip black, if you can drill it out do it.

IJN Cruisers did went trough some camo patterns, if you are building Kancolle's Kumano she has the standard Hull grey on all her skins tho

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 09:44:55 No.7299965 Report

Quoted By:

>>7299103
When it comes to thin cement vs super glue, your thin cement is literally just solvents that dissolve the plastic so they can be fused together (and the paint gets dissolved with it), while other thick glues actually add material to your model (thin cements evaporate completely). Thick plastic glues usually have plastics dissolved in them but tend to be similar chemicaly to thin cements other than that, superglue has some fancy polymerization shit, but basically you add bulk either way so if you overuse you can get a model covered in glue blobs which is what my first few were like so be careful (and thin cements can literally embed your fingerprints into the plastic itself if you pour a fuckton of the shit everywhere which happens now and then).

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1545167891445.jpg, 737KiB, 1024x925

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 14:12:08 No.7300120 Report

Quoted By: >>7300150 >>7300197 >>7300859

How do I work rubber tracks for 1/72 scale tanks? I have only put one set of tracks to a tank together and I have had the most trouble I've had in a long time. What glue even sticks rubber together? I've tried Tamiya thin and Superglue, but neither really works and takes a very long time to dry in which any tiny miniscule movement means that the track will start to unbind, leave a mess of glue and eventually get stuck to something else meaning that there's a lot more cleanup required.
>Buy aftermarket tracks lol
Not an option. I want to know how to glue rubber tracks properly, not buy my way out.
The kits in question are Paper Panzers from Modelcollect and Trumpeter.
How do I start with the tracks? Do I glue it to the sprocket wheel first, then glue that to the hull and then glue around to the wheel at the other end of the hull? Then add in the middle wheels? How do I stop the pieces from becoming bent out of shape or glued at the wrong angle?
The tracks are also sometimes bent or warped when in the box and they assume that shape. I've put the tracks flat under weight and left them since a week so far and I won't be back to see on them until late January. I hope they will be straight and assume that straightness from now on.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 51WYYQ13r-L._SY679_[1].jpg, 21KiB, 409x679

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 15:20:37 No.7300150 Report

Quoted By:

>>7300120
I use Great planes pro thick CA. If you are mounting them after they are painted / weathered with a xacto knife scrape the surfaces where the two halves connect. this will remove the paint and give a better surface for the glues to stick to.

To hold them together while the glues are curing I also like to pinch them together with my tweezers. After about 60 sec they are done.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 23 Dec 2018 16:17:44 No.7300197 Report

Quoted By:

>>7300120
I just use a staple or two or wire and hide it under a skirt
Rubber tracks in 72nd scale stopped being my worst enemy after that

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 01:47:46 No.7300859 Report

Quoted By:

>>7300120
I usually staple them.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181223_204011403_HDR3.jpg, 531KiB, 2000x1134

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 02:33:40 No.7300900 Report

Quoted By: >>7300906 >>7301288 >>7305297

Really liking this Acrylic Primer thing, sad it's a pain to clean from the airbrush.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 02:39:19 No.7300906 Report

Quoted By: >>7300911

>>7300900
That is one even paint

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181223_204035401_HDR2.jpg, 865KiB, 1924x1163

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 02:44:15 No.7300911 Report

Quoted By: >>7301288 >>7305297

>>7300906
It is. Sadly is just the primer, they should release paints in that composition, at least for base coats.

I also have this T-55A primed, can't decide what to do with it, either a sand color or a first gen Russian green.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1515077087259.png, 65KiB, 540x368

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 05:04:11 No.7301084 Report

Quoted By: >>7301106

quick question, can i use a gloss clear coat over a final matt coat and use clear matt again over that? i think i used too much clear matte in the final step and now that it dried it looks really dusty

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 05:20:24 No.7301106 Report

Quoted By: >>7301566

>>7301084
You should be able to do it, but it would be better if you apply a single satin coat instead.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO TerrifyingBeauty52.jpg, 36KiB, 700x443

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 06:34:41 No.7301167 Report

Quoted By: >>7301217 >>7304294

Question for airplane bros: What order do you guys do the matte clear coat/gloss coat in?

If I understand correct, the optimum order is"
1. Gloss coat
2. Decals
3. panel liner/wash
4. Matte coat (after washing off excess panel liner)

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 07:32:32 No.7301217 Report

Quoted By:

>>7301167
Pretty much, yes.
For planes you can change the Matte cote for a Satin one.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 09:22:45 No.7301288 Report

Quoted By:

>>7300900
>>7300911
>they should release paints in that composition, at least for base coats

Vallejo did that. They even have red, blue and gloss black.
also, double check'd

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 13:02:48 No.7301404 Report

Quoted By: >>7302757

>>7294640

I will made one like this just because looks awesome in light grey.

and i know is not "historical"

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 16:56:59 No.7301566 Report

Quoted By: >>7301663

>>7301106
i think i will star using satin for planes instead of matt, i like the slighty shiny surfaces it leaves, anyway i ended up using a wet cloth and passing it in the dusty surface a couple of times it look way better now and it left like a satin look, thanks man

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 18:11:19 No.7301663 Report

Quoted By: >>7301864

>>7301566
Good job, post pics when you are done!

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181224_123640273-min.jpg, 1MiB, 7472x3120

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 20:16:04 No.7301864 Report

Quoted By: >>7301896

>>7301663
Here it is finished, i think for a first time paint job it looks quite fine, next time i intend to make bigger 1:72 scale

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 20:44:48 No.7301896 Report

Quoted By: >>7301963

>>7301864
I don't know about close scrutiny, but for me that does look quite attractive, really impressive for your first paint job [spoiler:lit]maybe a bit too glossy[/spoiler:lit].
I really like the underside, looks really grim and smoke like. Good job.

>i intend to make bigger 1:72 scale
Is that one 1:144?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 21:13:56 No.7301947 Report

Quoted By: >>7302754

>>7297685
what fucking scale is that, 1/6?

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 24 Dec 2018 21:29:20 No.7301963 Report

Quoted By: >>7302756

>>7301896
that plane is in 1:72, i mean that next time i'll probably build a bigger plane in the same scale

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 07:13:12 No.7302754 Report

Quoted By:

>>7301947
yes
https://youtu.be/Zv0Sfuy30gk

https://youtu.be/GvLWheZChvU

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 07:15:10 No.7302756 Report

Quoted By: >>7303116

>>7301963
I see, go for it anon.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 07:15:48 No.7302757 Report

Quoted By:

>>7301404
But it's not light gray, what you are seeing is my lighter shade of Panzer gray with the lighting and the gray background... in normal lighting it looks like this,

http://eastcoastarmory.com/pzII/dio/DSC00549.jpg

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 16:07:23 No.7303116 Report

Quoted By:

>>7302756
Italeris 1:48 Stuka is a nice kit for its price

Anonymous

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Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 17:34:11 No.7303192 Report

Quoted By:

Merry Christmas guys

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 17:47:04 No.7303200 Report

Quoted By: >>7303207 >>7303247

I'm moving from gumpla to scale model kits... What is a good scale of model kit (1/20, 1/35, 1/60, etc.) to collect?

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 17:57:50 No.7303207 Report

Quoted By:

>>7303200
Depends what you find most interesting. For aircraft go with 1/72 if you want to collect more of them or 1/48 if you enjoy making your kits detailed. Same for ground units go for 1/72 if you want more and 1/35 if you want detail.

Anonymous

Anonymous Tue 25 Dec 2018 18:55:43 No.7303247 Report

Quoted By:

>>7303200
Depends on your space really. It also depends on the subject you want to build.

I'm not into ships, but afaik 1:700 and 1:350 are the most common scales there.
For Airplanes you got 1:144 (very small and rather limited in availability), 1:72, 1:48 and 1:32 as the most common scales. 1:32 planes look amazing but they are really big.
For armor/vehicles you got 1:100 (small and most kits are rather aimed at wargaming instead of actual modelling) 1:72, 1:48 and 1:35.
(There are also bigger tank kits in 1:16 and afaik 1:6 as well)

Smaller scale kits are often cheaper than big ones but sometimes they are simplified and offer less details. Some small kits offer incredible detailed parts too, but they tend do be very complicated and annoying even to build.

For civilian cars the most common scale is 1:24. There are almost no other options there.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 02:20:51 No.7303705 Report

Quoted By: >>7303830 >>7303914

How bad are the old tamiya kits?
Looking to buy a few cause they're cheap.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 02:28:19 No.7303727 Report

Quoted By: >>7303838 >>7304374

Someone tell me why 1/76 is still around and American cars are almost all in 1/25 while rest of the world has moved on to 1/72 and 1/24.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 04:11:19 No.7303830 Report

Quoted By:

>>7303705
Tamiya is generally pretty great.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 04:22:44 No.7303838 Report

Quoted By: >>7304017 >>7304082

>>7303727
1/76 comes from train scales

The real answer is why 1/56 exists.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 05:19:24 No.7303891 Report

Quoted By:

Just picked up a 1/48 Monogram Do-335, any thoughts, /smg/?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 05:50:31 No.7303914 Report

Quoted By:

>>7303705
Think of them as a Honda Civic.

Basic detailing, affordable, easy and forgiving to work with / build. gets you a basic model out of the box with no more or no less.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 09:35:02 No.7304017 Report

Quoted By: >>7304082

>>7303838
>The real answer is why 1/56 exists.
wargames

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 29352106_1936237763077251_162760 (...).jpg, 72KiB, 1024x723

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 11:25:57 No.7304082 Report

Quoted By:

>>7303838
>>7304017

Greedy Wargaming Companies.

For decades 1/48 and 1/50 was good enough for 28mm wargaming. But some companies did not sell enough in those scales because of direct competition of injection molded kits in 1/48 so they basically invented their own scale.

Some would claim that originally 25/28mm tall miniatures match the 1/56 vehicles perfectly but that would require the companies to actually sell realistic proportioned 28mm minis, and next to no company does that (especially not the ones who sell the most 1/56 kits these days). Their miniatures are grossly oversized ("heroic scale") and there is no way they would actually fit through some of the vehicles hatches.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 17:02:27 No.7304294 Report

Quoted By:

>>7301167
I usually add step 2.5: slap some dilute gloss over the decals. Just in case the deals and panel liner don't play nice with each other.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO makoscale.jpg, 166KiB, 799x754

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 18:38:16 No.7304374 Report

Quoted By: >>7304468 >>7304474

>>7303727
wiki
1:76.2 4 mm UK model rail scale 4 mm scale (OO Scale, etc.).
1:76 4.011 mm Military vehicles. Used with 4 mm to 1 foot models as well.
1:75 4.064 mm Used by Heller for model ships.

cars are generaly made 1/25 - 1/24

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Revell M7 Priest.jpg, 140KiB, 1600x1352

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:08:57 No.7304461 Report

Quoted By: >>7304472 >>7304473

Tank bros, this is my first attempt a tank and the 3rd scale model. Revell M7 "Priest" I was pretty happy with the painting on the figs although i missed a bit of flash on one of the hands. Tamiya panel line accent used as a general wash over the tracks and wheels. rate/hate/masterbate

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1456125240558.jpg, 16KiB, 300x375

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:17:19 No.7304468 Report

Quoted By: >>7304733

>>7304374
>1:75
why

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:18:59 No.7304472 Report

Quoted By: >>7304481

>>7304461
Needs a mattcote and it would use some drybrushing.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:20:33 No.7304473 Report

Quoted By: >>7304481

>>7304461
Overall green and transfers seem to have gone on pretty well. The return roller, well, I don't think I need to tell you anything there. The skin tone and the yellow bits less so, so work on being neater. Having already slopped on some panel liner onto the tracks a very natural next step in the future would be to add some around all the details elsewhere as well as a pin wash to being them out. Let dry for a while and then clean up any excess with enamel thinner.

You don't seem like a lost cause, so keep practising.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:21:09 No.7304474 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304374
Dat YF-16

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO Revell M7 Priest2.jpg, 77KiB, 1600x900

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:29:42 No.7304481 Report

Quoted By: >>7304486 >>7304645

Thanks for the feedback.

>>7304472
Ive got the matt coat and need to learn about dry brushing. Any tips/tech appreciated. I'll check the links at the top.

>>7304473
I tried to neaten the yellow lines on the ammo with a tape mask but they are so small I gave up. The rear roller is now fixed I didnt realise the track had bent it when I took that. The details all have had some panel liner.

Like I said, it's my 3rd kit in about 20 years with limited tools and tech. The point is to enjoy yourself and I'm definitely having fun.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 20:36:26 No.7304486 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304481
You seem to have got the basics right, now all you need is being more careful during assembly (use extra thin cement). Consider hitting the figures with an extra layer of mattcote.
And yeah give the chassis some drybrushing

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 22:18:39 No.7304645 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304481
I had lots of these reboxed Matchbox kits when i was a child. Nice little kits if you consider their age.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 22:25:28 No.7304651 Report

Quoted By: >>7304663

I just got my first shitto cheapo airbrush + shit-tier compressor-without-tank set for cheap.
Having fun with it right now, but how long will it take for me to git gud with thinning paints and controlling the airbrush to actually start painting models?
If you have an airbrush, how long did it take you to get a good grasp on it and be confident enough to apply paint to your models?

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 22:46:01 No.7304663 Report

Quoted By: >>7304672

>>7304651
Pretty much straight away. Shoot some paint at a non-absorbing surface and make sure it behaves somewhat decently and you're good to go. Sure, the first one won't be a masterpiece, but just putting down smooth-enough-for-a-tank layers of paint ain't that hard. So just leave the two hundred quid resin car kit on the shelf and get going with something else.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 43.png, 959KiB, 1593x1072

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 22:54:55 No.7304672 Report

Quoted By: >>7304752

>>7304663
I've been practicing with some old kits I built years ago and also just playing around with drawing on paper and I can get a normal consistency on paper but when I put it on the models it either speckles, hits the model and dries instantly or pools instantly, like I can't get a normal clean coat of paint. Might be something to do with the fact that there's matte and satin coats on the models and maybe that's why it's pooling? Either way, I've got a couple old raised-panel-line plane kits I'll give painting a go on, they'll be my practice kits.

Anonymous

Anonymous Wed 26 Dec 2018 23:47:53 No.7304733 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304468
no idea, train guys are strange
i get 1/35 kit with a full interier and metal parts for 25-30€ and a freaking H0 cargo car cost like 50€

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:04:03 No.7304752 Report

Quoted By: >>7304763

>>7304672
Paper absorbs moisture, so it should be a lot less prone to pooling and running than when you paint on plastic. Gloss/satin/matte underneath shouldn't matter much. Having the paint dry instantly when it hits the model isn't necessarily bad, though if it dries in too large lumps you can get a pebbly surface, and if you want a good deal of self-levelling you'll need to hit that sweet spot where it's wet but doesn't run on you. One thing to keep in mind about running/pooling/drying is also that the distance you paint at is an important factor there, the more distance the paint travels the more it'll dry in transit, so far out you get relatively dry paint (which often means crank up the amount to keep things moist), while up close you must take it easy with the trigger or it'll pool on you.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:11:03 No.7304763 Report

Quoted By: >>7304777 >>7305276

>>7304752
I think that's still what I have to practice then. I put the model so it's shining the light at me so I see when the surface is wet, I spray and then move it and look at it and the surface is way too thick, so next I try to spray a little bit further away and it dries but it's inconsistant and I think it's drying before it has time to settle.
I just need to practice loads before I can get good enough results and get comfortable.
Do you think a flat piece of cardboard with primer on it is a good surface to practice on? I assume it will be since it's a flat primed surface...

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:21:47 No.7304775 Report

Quoted By: >>7304786

A Gundam builder friend says he wants to make aircraft but is complaining that they don't come premoulded in the right colours for what people say the best kits. How do I get through his head that while models are toys, that snapping is a crutch put in to help little kids?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:22:00 No.7304777 Report

Quoted By: >>7304781

>>7304763
>I spray and then move it and look at it and the surface is way too thick, so next I try to spray a little bit further away and it dries but it's inconsistant
I think at that point it might be better to try and ease up on the trigger to get less paint rather than to move away, but since everythign has to be in balance with everythign else it's somewhat tricky to diagnose over the internet. Drying before it hits will tend to give you a sandpaper-like surface.

Cardboard might work, just be a bit heavy on the primer to make sure it's sealed up properly. Or grab something from the kitchen, an empty jam jar, ketchup bottle, milk carton... If it's non-absorbent in itself then the primer coat will also be a training run.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:27:13 No.7304781 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304777
>grab something from the kitchen, an empty jam jar, ketchup bottle, milk carton
That's good thinking, I can practice on all those things.
I'll keep practicing for now, I don't feel confident in my skills just yet.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:31:09 No.7304786 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304775
Painted plastic and coloured plastic don't really look the same, no matter what colour they'd make the plastic it'd still just look like bare plastic. Then there's the colour modulation you almost certainly want. With many kits there's a range of different painting schemes, you can't mould them all at once. And finally what the right colours is can be a matter of debate almost on par with the protestant/catholic and shia/sunni splits. Hell, even when two people agree on what the right colour was from the factory they may want different shades anyway because they're building with different degrees of ageing in the paint. Have fun trying to engineer the colour separation for, say, your everyday luftwaffe mottling. Etc.

Then again, if he wants to putter around with gunpla then that's fine too. And if he wants to go over to scale aircraft then he can say whatever he wants, he's not going to have much choice about glue and paint here. Doesn't seem to be much point in trying to sort him out.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:45:11 No.7304794 Report

Quoted By: >>7304804 >>7304816 >>7305082 >>7305170

Can you safely strip paint off of plastic models with lacquer thinner? Degreaser hasn't been able to do much about Tamiya primer so far.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20180901_203948_HDR.jpg, 3MiB, 4160x2340

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:57:02 No.7304802 Report

Quoted By: >>7304823 >>7305169

Bought a H&S Ultra and oh boy, son, am disappoint... on every aspect it is better than my 20$ except that its spray cone wider than on the chinese airbrush and it uses more paint. it is hard to use as detail aribrush for that erason. why, h&s?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 00:58:27 No.7304804 Report

Quoted By: >>7304859

>>7304794
>strip paint off of plastic models with lacquer thinner
no
>Tamiya primer
alcohol and a lot of elbow grease.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 01:03:32 No.7304816 Report

Quoted By: >>7304859 >>7305026

>>7304794
I heard ultrasonic cleaners can strip paint off plastics ez. They go for like ~$40 and it's much easier than alcohol and hours of painful working gettina all the paint off.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 01:06:27 No.7304823 Report

Quoted By: >>7304920

>>7304802
Can't you tighten the screw at the front or change the needle for a tighter spray cone? I thought these were supposed to be be all-end all of airbrushes?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 01:31:23 No.7304859 Report

Quoted By: >>7305026

>>7304804
>>7304816
Fug. I vibrating all the paint off does sound nice. I will see if I have enough rubbing alcohol first.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1544396123222.jpg, 22KiB, 260x260

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 01:37:16 No.7304870 Report

Quoted By: >>7304877 >>7304975

>when your family is concerned you're spending too much on model kits but they give you an IKEA cart for your paint cans for Christmas

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1544640322702.jpg, 88KiB, 540x542

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 01:42:12 No.7304877 Report

Quoted By: >>7304975

>>7304870
>When you gotta hide the fact that you ordered a bunch of shit and it will come in 4 different packages at different times and each time the'll get more and more concerned with the amount of money spent on stupid plastic toys

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 02:24:01 No.7304920 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304823
>Can't you tighten the screw at the fron
wat? ultra has no screw/valve. also, i'm using 0.2.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 03:01:37 No.7304975 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304870
>>7304877
gotta live by yourselves boys. the only person to question my packages is me, because i forgot what the fuck i ordered

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 03:38:05 No.7305026 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304816
>>7304859
Can confirm have one that is apparently just under the lower most guys recommend and with super clean a 900 second cycle or two and a little elbow grease it’s far faster and easier then anything else. Good for cleaning airbrushes to

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 04:27:39 No.7305082 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304794
oven cleaner, the one in a can.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:14:16 No.7305169 Report

Quoted By: >>7307848

>>7304802
You're doing something wrong, what paint are you using and what thinner / paint ratio?

The texture of the paint shows a lot of orange peel, and the tentacle like blobs of paint pushing outwards means you are spraying too close / at too high PSI, aim for between 15-20.

But like I said, it's most likely the paint not being thinned properly.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:15:41 No.7305170 Report

Quoted By:

>>7304794
lacquer thinner will absolutely destroy your models. You need something that won't attack the plastic, simple green or purple power both found in hardware stores should work.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 49199945_1124259981068044_194144 (...).jpg, 536KiB, 1728x1296

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:17:23 No.7305172 Report

Quoted By: >>7305173 >>7305177 >>7305179 >>7305286

Finally my 1/6th scale Jeep trailer kit came in from the Printer, Got it built and ready for paint. All I need now is a sunny day and off she goes.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48985312_1124259577734751_617579 (...).jpg, 383KiB, 1728x1296

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:18:29 No.7305173 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305172

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 48396164_1122877271206315_424135 (...).jpg, 140KiB, 1728x1296

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:22:20 No.7305177 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305172
The undercarriage details

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 06:24:16 No.7305179 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305172
and compared to my first attempt which came in under scaled to what looks like 1/8th

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 08:04:58 No.7305276 Report

Quoted By: >>7305300

>>7304763
>Why am I getting speckles/dust?
You're either using too low psi OR you're too far away. Stay roughly 4 inches and use 15-20 psi.

>Why am I getting pooling?
Too much thinner and/or you're trying to get 100% opacity (meaning: the paint completely covers area) in one pass. Instead, go for multiple light passes. Spray an area, then move on to another, then another, then back to first spot once the initial spray has dried.

I'm also a newbie but these are things I learned. Been using Vallejo air paints since they don't need any thinner and work really well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 08:20:26 No.7305286 Report

Quoted By: >>7305520

>>7305172
That's looks really clean, can't believe that's 3D printed.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181227_010435.jpg, 780KiB, 2000x1000

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 08:28:47 No.7305297 Report

Quoted By:

>>7300900
>>7300911
And basecoated.
First time trying the black primer / base shading method. I am afraid it may end up been to strong on the T-55 and too subtle on the T-80. Went back and made some highlights mixing the base color with some white, but still not sure. I hope the gloss coat makes it stand up more later on.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 08:30:54 No.7305300 Report

Quoted By: >>7305496 >>7307344

>>7305276
>Vallejo air paints don't need any thinner
You thin with water? I tried doing that once and it was a clusterfuck, and cleaning was another one, been afraid of acrylics since.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 14:54:19 No.7305496 Report

Quoted By: >>7307344 >>7307404

>>7305300
Model Air is the consistency needed to spray out of the bottle for most aspects. Model Air does need specific thinner with a surfactant if you need to thin it, but that's not necessary in most cases. Thinning with water is typically bad because the surface tension is way too high.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSCN1534.jpg, 145KiB, 640x296

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 15:26:04 No.7305520 Report

Quoted By: >>7305522 >>7305526

>>7305286
I know right, this shit's only going to get better from this point on too

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 15:27:07 No.7305522 Report

Quoted By: >>7305575

>>7305520

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 15:29:30 No.7305526 Report

Quoted By: >>7305581

>>7305520
For designing kits this technology really saves time as you can have lots of parts and components integrally printed that otherwise would all have to be sub assemblies with a ton of parts being fabricated, molded, then casted

>Pic related, the bottom base of the M27 recoilless

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 16:21:22 No.7305575 Report

Quoted By: >>7305812

>>7299056
>>7299096
Tossing another 1500 lumens in there. Time to set the camera to M and start figuring things out I think.

>>7305522
Time to start keeping an eye on shapeways then I guess.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 16:24:09 No.7305579 Report

Quoted By: >>7305584

>>7296132
germany does not have spitfires nor shermans premiuns as far as i remember

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 16:25:17 No.7305581 Report

Quoted By: >>7305697

>>7305526
that looks really amazing.

i assume the big scale helps alot right?

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 16:27:26 No.7305584 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305579
They have a Sherman premium but that was available only when tanks were being introduced for the very first time as a purchasable pack that got you the German Sherman and Beta access to tanks. They're very rarely seen on the battlefield.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO miniart-35215-t-60-interior-tank (...).jpg, 350KiB, 1184x728

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 16:37:12 No.7305594 Report

Quoted By: >>7305775 >>7305817 >>7307346

What is your guys opinion on Miniart?

In particular their T-60, T-70 light tanks and their T-54 kits. These seem to have amazing value with their full interior (T-60), PE parts etc, but i've never built anything from that company and scalemates reviews are only so helpful.

Can i buy Miniart stuff without a second thought or should i order some putty and sanding paper with it to be save?

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 47232156_1096882320472477_450049 (...).jpg, 57KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 17:52:50 No.7305697 Report

Quoted By: >>7305699

>>7305581
>designing in big scale
Yeah that does help make things more practical as the minimal thicknesses are more forgiving in 1/6 than smaller scales.

However most of the time when I scale something down I change the material from the white nylon to the HD resin, which can normally outputs the thicknesses that are found on the shrunk down parts. This works for the majority of the time without the need to redesign

>Pic related I designed the functional rear folding rack for the 1/6th scale sherman, but had a lot of requests to scale it down to 1/16,

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 17:54:45 No.7305699 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305697
the 1/6th scale version

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 18:35:38 No.7305775 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305594
I've been burned by them on a kit before, there was a short shot on the hull, meaning they didn't inject enough plastic into the mold. Also some of their older kits aren't so great.
Other than that, the newer kits are good, but can be very fiddly. Lots of small parts and complex assemblies. If you're an experienced builder you should be fine. Putty and sandpaper should be on hand regardless of what kits you're building

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 19:02:06 No.7305812 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305575
A lot better. Now try to increase the amount of pixels and you are set.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 19:04:14 No.7305817 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305594
Basically what the other anon said stay away from their older kits new stuff is fine.
I bought a t-80 with PE “special tracks” and a full crew for 20 bucks. I really just over payed for a good crew set because the tracks where abysmal with the parts tree connection being in between the links, plastic was brittle, parts fit was awful, and the body needed massive modifications to even build into a t-80 because it was just a reboxes t-70 with a turret that didn’t fit it also had to cut a massive hole in the back to put the PE vents in.
Their new stuff is apparently top of the line and for some kits the only optionand the t-60 is brand new tooling not related to the old t-70/80/su76 molds so you should be fine.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 19:17:53 No.7305833 Report

Quoted By: >>7305867 >>7307058 >>7308289

>look up review for a kit
>all are what’s in the box or first look review
>Wikipedia copy paste if it’s a well know vehicle or just a “the vehicle looks weird” if it’s obscure
>here is a picture of the box. The vehicle is doing a thing on the box
>the plastic is this color
>here is a picture of some of the part, but not all of them
>here is a blurry as fuck picture of the instructions and color call outs
>it comes with decals for (insert unit here)
>this is a very good kit 10/10 I would definitely recommend this kit because reasons.

Fucking hate these reviews

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO My disgust.png, 2MiB, 1600x1551

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 19:44:18 No.7305867 Report

Quoted By: >>7305976 >>7307058

>>7305833
>Alright, welcome to SCALE HOBBY SHOBBY DOBBY MOBBY Channel!
>Today we're going to be reviewing the one in seventy second scale Ratte by Modelcollect!
>Ok, so here's the hull. Wow is it a big one, huh, wow. It's a big hull, huh.
>Ok, here's the turret parts, and here's some of the sprues. Very clean, very nice sprues, no flash. Oh wait, here's a bit of flash but I'll let these guys off the hook because they make such great models.
>It comes with an instruction booklet and some decals. Wow, these are good decals, huh.
>Alright, thanks for watching this in-box review. I would reccomend this kit to anyone who likes paper Panzers or just a big model, but you do need filler and sandpaper because there are some gaps in the assembly. Other than that, you should be fine.
>*Really loud outro plays for 4 minutes*

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 20:48:24 No.7305976 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305867
>>*Really loud outro plays for 4 minutes*
I usually miss this, on account of the three minute intro having rendered me deaf.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 20:52:41 No.7305982 Report

Quoted By: >>7306113

Somewhat over a year and a half after I bought the paints, I'm finally starting to get to put them to their intended use. The tonal differences, as usual, don't photograph brilliantly, but considering how it'll probably get stomped hard by the tonal crush anyway...
Three colours to go.

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 22:19:53 No.7306113 Report

Quoted By: >>7306125

>>7305982
Looking good. Is the photo slightly distorted? The viggen looks shorter for some reason

Anonymous

Anonymous Thu 27 Dec 2018 22:26:03 No.7306125 Report

Quoted By:

>>7306113
Not to any real degree (none intentional), might just have hit the perfect angle to make it look odd with the deforming the camera lens normally does I guess.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 13:07:16 No.7306976 Report

Quoted By: >>7307021 >>7307043

Here you go boys, the only worthwhile thing I finished this year.
-Australia guy

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 14:11:06 No.7307021 Report

Quoted By: >>7310664

>>7306976
Nice F4F Wildcat! which brand?

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 14:12:53 No.7307022 Report

Quoted By: >>7307049 >>7307058 >>7307408

Can anyone recommend any modern naval scale model kits that would be good for a beginner in ship modeling. I'm kind of eyeing the 1/400 Heller La Fayate Frigate as an entry point to eventually build the 1/400 Charles de Gaulle but I dont want to get too ahead of myself. Any tips?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 14:40:11 No.7307043 Report

Quoted By: >>7310664

>>7306976
That's rather neat. And somewhat the opposite of my stuff, just a solid overall colour coat, but some chipping. Are the main markings masked and sprayed rather than decals?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 14:44:22 No.7307049 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307022
>1/400
What a dumb scale. Build only 1/350 and maybe 1/700 if you like small stuff

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 14:57:32 No.7307058 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307022
1/400? That sounds like an ancient ki...
>2012: New tooling
...bloody French.

With ships the two scales that matter are generally 1/700 and 1/350. Airfix still has a few 1/600 scale kits around, but those exist pretty much solely for the sake of people who built those kits as kids back in the sixties and seventies and now want to build the exact same kit again. And with sailing ships scales are all over the place. So, anyway, if you want some other stuff in scale with these ships, you're probably going to have to go find them in one of those two scales (which as far as I can tell means 1/700 resin kits here, maybe not the best beginner stuff no). Or you might not give a fuck, in which case none of my ramblings matter.
As for your actual question all I can really say is that Hasegawa's Kongo-class destroyers are a bit of a pain in the ass to assemble. Something from Tamiya would probably be pretty easy to assemble, but their modern ship range is rather limited. How Heller's kits stack up here, well, your googling of reviews is probably about as good as mine. Look for build logs and such as well, model reviews are often rather short on actually building the kits and as such can't tell you much about if shit actually fits or not (as per >>7305833 and >>7305867 )

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 20:59:17 No.7307344 Report

Quoted By: >>7307404

>>7305300
I don't think the Vallejo Model Air paints. They work just fine for me right out the bottle.

>>7305496
Didn't know I needed a specific thinner... that makes sense since I did try with normal Tamiya acrylic thinner and it didn't work so well.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:00:58 No.7307346 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305594
I recently made a Lancaster 1/144 scale. Model has some serious gaps and lack of detail. It was fun but for the money I'd much rather get an Eduard or Tamiya 1/72 model.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:39:31 No.7307404 Report

Quoted By: >>7308933

>>7307344
>>7305496
What do you use to clean tho?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:40:40 No.7307408 Report

Quoted By: >>7307737

>>7307022
1/350 and 1/400 (plz no) are quite big. If you are starting I recommend you trying your hand on some 1/700 ships first.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:45:56 No.7307421 Report

Quoted By: >>7307532 >>7307555 >>7307605

>>7284167
Just wantted to inform anons that the amusing hobby E-5 model is for sale and its pretty cheap got mine for Christmas looks like it will be a fun build.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amusing-1-35-German-WWII-Project-Vehicle-E-5-Rutscher-PanzerKleinzerstoerer/312367774308?hash=item48ba91fa64:g:kQAAAOSwDSJb59cH:rk:10:pf:0

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:49:51 No.7307426 Report

Quoted By: >>7307528

>>7291147
You've never been poor have you?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 21:53:05 No.7307430 Report

Quoted By: >>7308314

>>7291792
Is that the amusing hobby kit? If so how was the build and was putting together the tracks that big of a pain or where they relatively simple.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 22:21:33 No.7307451 Report

Quoted By:

>>7287296
Nah, I was in the same boat but I bought myself an airbrush and compressor kit for $40, plus additional things for airbrushing like thinner and paint cup. It takes some saving up but it's a good investment.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:18:29 No.7307528 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307426
If you are that poor you shouldn't be spending money on plastic.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:20:07 No.7307532 Report

Quoted By: >>7307539

>>7307421
That looks quite good, sadly it's not my scale.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:25:36 No.7307539 Report

Quoted By: >>7307541

>>7307532
>All these cool tanks
>Not in 1/72

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:26:55 No.7307541 Report

Quoted By: >>7307545

>>7307539
Modelcollect will deliver! One day.... [spoiler:lit];_;[/spoiler:lit]

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:28:43 No.7307545 Report

Quoted By: >>7307553 >>7307556

>>7307541
>Modelcollect
I have a bunch of their 1/72 stuff and I can't wait to buy more down the line. I love paper Panzers.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:35:30 No.7307553 Report

Quoted By: >>7308605

>>7307545
They are making gundams and 1/48 planes now tho...

>9K35 Strela
>T-62
>Leo2 Revo
Not gonna happen, will it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:36:00 No.7307555 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307421
Love me some paper panzer, but I’m pretty sure this a post war bullshit tank it is a pretty fun looking little machine though.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:39:34 No.7307556 Report

Quoted By: >>7307565

>>7307545
I hate paper panzers. Wish they made more vehicles that actually exist and added pictures of what's in the box

Anonymous

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Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:46:22 No.7307564 Report

Quoted By: >>7307578 >>7307860

based slavs making msta-s in 1/72

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:47:11 No.7307565 Report

Quoted By: >>7307578

>>7307556
But that's boring. Having a hundred different versions of the Russian T-55 on your shelf is just an eye sore. Seen it a thousand times. Add all the modifications and brass you want, it's been seen before. Paper Panzers and "What-If" designs from all sides of the war are much more interesting because they're not something you see every day and if you've never seen it before it gives you an opportunity to learn about something new.
Also it allows you to paint it in any manner you want or add modifications that usually wouldn't take place in models based in the real world.

Anonymous

Anonymous Fri 28 Dec 2018 23:59:22 No.7307578 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307564
nice.
Reminds me I have to get a T-14 too.

>>7307565
>it gives you an opportunity to learn about something new.
They are stretching the concept to the point of sci-fi, not really "learning" much with that. Nothing wrong with that, the dual 128mm E-100 I got next to me is really cool, and they really give you the freedom to make them really striking to the eye, same as gundams and Starwars kits. That doesn't make them less interesting that down to earth kits. A Russian T-54 tells a very different story to an East German T-55AM2B, even if they look similar to the average eye, and they can be just or more interesting under scrutiny.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 00:20:06 No.7307605 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307421
Oh, that reminds me: Oi, Modelsvit, get the fucking M4 out already!
Bloody thing's gonna pop the moment I've convinced myself I'm fine with the M3 paint schemes, isn't?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 02:17:16 No.7307737 Report

Quoted By: >>7307755 >>7307876

>>7307408
Can anyone recommend any good begginer modern US/NATO 1/700 ship kits?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 02:27:55 No.7307755 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307737
or a low priced 1/350 one for that matter

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 03:26:44 No.7307848 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305169
>paint shows a lot of orange peel
plastic's surface has orange peel, it's not smooth.

>paint pushing outwards means you are spraying too close
that what's i'm talking about: i have to get very close to make fine lines.
also, those splotches are probably because of dry tip.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 03:40:36 No.7307860 Report

Quoted By: >>7307915

>>7307564
where did you download it?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 03:58:52 No.7307876 Report

Quoted By: >>7307918

>>7307737
So I was looking around, and if you are into French ships just go for it, you ain't having more options other than Heller and its 1/400.
Their La Fayatte kit seems to be actually quite good and simple to assemble, you should be good to go. I would strongly recommend and airbrush, or at least canned paint for the basecoat tho

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 04:53:36 No.7307915 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307860
google "andre 1/72 blog"

good slav blog dedicated to 1/72

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 04:57:08 No.7307918 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307876
And if with that I pulled the plug and bought one, the difference in scales between 1/350 and 1/400 in the future wont bother me so much because the french carrier is also 1/400. My only annoyance is to know if the other older heller kits will make sense as modern navalcraft, but i'll get to that bridge when I get to it.

Your right about the airbrush, I've been meaning for a proper reason to pick up one of those 100$ chinese tank compressors eventually.

I just hope for the price that I don't screw it up too bad.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO IMG_20181229_143347_6.jpg, 4MiB, 4208x3120

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 12:34:26 No.7308204 Report

Quoted By: >>7308307 >>7308748 >>7308898 >>7309420 >>7310726

First time built a new Tamiya kit and gotta say I'm really impressed. Wish they'd make more kits with link and length tracks

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20181127_193622.jpg, 187KiB, 400x533

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 15:10:34 No.7308289 Report

Quoted By:

>>7305833
>go on YouTube
>"X company's [insert subject here] 1/48 FULL BUILD"
>video is grainy webcam footage shot over the guy's shoulder

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 1519023517227.jpg, 68KiB, 720x720

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 15:38:52 No.7308307 Report

Quoted By:

>>7308204
kys

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20181106_182912408_iOS.jpg, 1MiB, 2448x2448

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 15:45:57 No.7308314 Report

Quoted By: >>7308326 >>7308752

>>7307430
Yeah, but compared to their löwe and vk leopard their e-100 series seems pretty weak. Funny thing, after days of doing jack shit I just finished putting the tracks on and it was more dramatic than I thought due track pins snapping off and the wheels falling off alignment all the time.
I was going to make a collage to show you the main problems and mods needed but pic related and next should show enough. About the tracks, they're workable (afaik all amusing hobby kits are like that) and the clean up is tedious but expected of doing tracks in general, their main weakness is that the snap on pins and sockets tend to break more than in the löwe or the vk leo, I think it's because the e-100 tracks are massive and put too much strain on them making them quite temperamental.
As for the build of the main body, that's shared across the series with only changing the turret sprues, the working suspension is nice to have BUT they failed in something important: if you make this kind of solution either have better engineering tolerance wise or include so fucking poly caps. It works out in the end but seeing the simplicity of the kit they could have put more effort here. The back of the hull requires some putty and weld work along the front just to cover gaps if anything else. The turret is okay overall building wise.
Once done is a really bleak looking kit and despite including some pioneer tools is up to you where and how you put them because the thing was only a test hull when the war ended so everything is up to common sense and speculation from there. They had to work from pictures of parts, wooden mock ups pics and simple drawings on most of these kits but the amount of "love" they put on their earlier kits is nowhere to be seen in the e-100 as of today it.
On the bright side this gives you a canvas to go to town and show off but up to you getting the stuff on the kit to make it look interesting or go with a factory finish

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO 20181012_202337371_iOS.jpg, 1MiB, 2448x2448

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 15:56:22 No.7308326 Report

Quoted By: >>7308752

>>7308314
And the finished gap filling and added welds. In general this kit doesn't need a lot of work but benefits form it, just looking at the ref pics and adding the missing welds and adding some texture to the armor slabs give it a livelier appearance. I'm not a great in the building/scratch work department but these kits would benefit from putting extra effort in the building phase, more than I did despite adding the night vision and the projector as I feel more could be done within my ability. With some PE set (voyager and ET have irc) and details cannibalized from other kits or using aftermarket detail up parts in general you can make the simple looking barn of german stahl prototype into some deployed and "lived in" looking project and those are the best ones imo.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 17:10:22 No.7308423 Report

Quoted By: >>7308424 >>7308469

I got this guy in paint now, 1994 vintage dragon panther F, Swapped out a few stock parts with a few modern dragon Panther parts I had in the spare bin left over from another pather F build, replaced the shit tracks with Bronco workable, and got a set of Aber PE grill cover for the back that will be added after the paintwork.

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO DSCN2237.jpg, 117KiB, 640x480

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 17:11:24 No.7308424 Report

Quoted By:

>>7308423
Should have this one wrapped in a couple days

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 17:40:11 No.7308469 Report

Quoted By: >>7308506

>>7308423
What scheme you gonna do?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 17:59:50 No.7308506 Report

Quoted By: >>7308743

>>7308469
Probably 3 tone ambush.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 19:27:59 No.7308605 Report

Quoted By: >>7308612 >>7308743

>>7307553
>>T-62
Just get the trumpeter one, I was waiting for modecollect to deliver since it was announced way back in 2013

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 19:32:24 No.7308612 Report

Quoted By: >>7311415

>>7308605
Trumpeter one is shit. Just thinking about correcting the turret ring makes me mad. How did they fuck up so much? Now they're making shit 1/72 kits compared to their older ones

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 21:32:23 No.7308743 Report

Quoted By: >>7311415

>>7308605
I would but I have heard bad things about it, also it is rather expensive for a simple kit.

>>7308506
>3 tone amb
aesthetic

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 21:36:42 No.7308748 Report

Quoted By: >>7308898

>>7308204
That looks nice, BT-7 is always interesting change.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 21:38:38 No.7308752 Report

Quoted By: >>7308843 >>7310202

>>7308314
That looks baddass.

>>7308326
How do you make welds? I got a 1/72 KV-1 I want to detail but never done it before.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 22:35:22 No.7308843 Report

Quoted By: >>7309648

>>7308752
Two different techniques and cast texture that you might also want

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FmtzsfW1hlM

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HxL3uwM6q7c

Anonymous

View Same Google ImgOps iqdb SauceNAO BT-7.jpg, 433KiB, 2288x1285

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 22:56:31 No.7308898 Report

Quoted By: >>7308917 >>7309645

>>7308204
>>7308748

It really is.
I basecoated this one yesterday. Had to drill quite a bit out of the plastic mantlet to get the metal barrel in too.
Maybe i'll add the chain to the front later, but probably will leave it off.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 23:06:45 No.7308917 Report

Quoted By: >>7308927

>>7308898
Ayy. Might you be the guy who gave a heads up on those cheap BT-7s and BT-42s from Germany last year?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 23:11:02 No.7308927 Report

Quoted By: >>7308937

>>7308917
No, but i ordered one of each back then too. Finally got the time to build at least the BT-7. It was really a joy to build. In particular the PE shaped part for bending that was included with the sprues.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 23:12:07 No.7308933 Report

Quoted By:

>>7307404
just water for the most part. When I'm done for the day I use lacquer thinner.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sat 29 Dec 2018 23:14:10 No.7308937 Report

Quoted By:

>>7308927
Heh got both myself. Still have the BT-42 in the stash. It's a shame that the swastikas were cut from the decal sheet. Now I'll need to buy a decal set. Fucking Germans, man

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 03:38:13 No.7309420 Report

Quoted By: >>7309796

>>7308204
isn't the BT-7 slack-tracked?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 06:31:30 No.7309645 Report

Quoted By: >>7309887

>>7308898
Are those 1/72 polish tanks?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 06:32:32 No.7309648 Report

Quoted By:

>>7308843
Excelent, I'll give it a try.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 08:34:14 No.7309796 Report

Quoted By: >>7309844

>>7309420
It is. The kit is split up in subassemblies. I'll glue the tracks later

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 09:36:27 No.7309844 Report

Quoted By:

>>7309796

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 11:02:05 No.7309887 Report

Quoted By:

>>7309645
1/100 soviet tanks actually

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 16:11:02 No.7310101 Report

Quoted By: >>7310202

Almost there. This would have been painful without the pre-cut masks. And it'll be a rather nervous unmasking afterwards.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 18:03:15 No.7310202 Report

Quoted By: >>7310558

>>7308752
Thanks. I do mine with greenstuff and then with a slightly chopped toothpick (so it makes a needle-like shape) I give them shape. It's easy to work and correct as it takes a while to fully cure and has nice consistency to work on, but I need to find a better tool to shape them.
>>7310101
Nice, what colors do you use? I've looking around for the megami squad but I would rather have the swedish colors (or close matches) than mixing as I suspect chipping and peel off will be the bane of the project. I need to try the greens and browns I already have to see how they look together but it's nice to have a quick deploy alternative

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 22:44:01 No.7310558 Report

Quoted By:

>>7310202
I'm using Mr Paint on top here, MRP-176 to MRP-179. Sprays wonderfully, utterly useless with a brush. The blue-grey belly is Tamiya XF-66 since I already had it, though MRP has a suitable one for that too.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 22:50:26 No.7310563 Report

Quoted By: >>7310573

machined out a master for one of the two sprocket drive housings for the T-26. two part silicone molds should be coming in this week and some resin shortly after.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 22:56:05 No.7310573 Report

Quoted By: >>7310622

>>7310563
Your operating on an entire other level good sir.. impressive stuff.

If i wanted to buy such an T-26 from you.. how much would it cost me?

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 23:25:54 No.7310622 Report

Quoted By: >>7310669

>>7310573
I just happen to have the tools to make it easier... and a lack of other commitments to distract me. Materials wise, this thing won't cost too much. The aluminum sheet was only ~150, then there are going to be some 3d printed parts, some resin components, and all the fasteners. Might be around 500 all said and done. But the process takes a lot of time, so if I were to sell it as a kit, definitely a few grand, if it was a commission build, probably as much as a fully loaded Armortek kit. I haven't been keeping track of machining times and optimizing things like I did with the Whippet (because it sucked the fun out of it) so I can't give any hard numbers. Basically the goal of this build is to plod along and make something cool without worrying about making money. And at the end of the day if someone says they'd give me 10k for it, I'd sell it

Anonymous

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Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 23:48:34 No.7310664 Report

Quoted By: >>7310683

>>7307021
Tamiya with a quickboost engine and Eduard cockpit.

>>7307043
Thank you, I kind of like the solid colour and I avoid pre and post shading outside of doing so to show different materials. Good guess on the markings, though the unit markings are decals. I had a horrid time swapping to acrylic halfway through for the markings, and had to completely strip and redo in enamel as per my preference.

Anonymous

Anonymous Sun 30 Dec 2018 23:51:38 No.7310669 Report

Quoted By:

>>7310622
If i could drive to work with that thing i would gladly sell my car and buy one instead.

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 00:02:18 No.7310683 Report

Quoted By:

>>7310664
cool. will have to look this one up.

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 00:28:55 No.7310726 Report

Quoted By: >>7310753

>>7308204
Painted it. Tried masking the turret but there would have been overspray becaise the masking tape was going over raised details so painted the stripes with a brash. Looks pretty decen't, I guess. They were pain by brush IRL anyways

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 00:47:52 No.7310753 Report

Quoted By:

>>7310726
Brushed paints probably looks better

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 06:16:11 No.7311139 Report

Quoted By: >>7311288 >>7311363 >>7311407

Fuck me damn

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 10:14:16 No.7311288 Report

Quoted By:

>>7311139
Dear God

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 12:13:10 No.7311363 Report

Quoted By:

>>7311139
50 shades of grey

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 13:09:18 No.7311407 Report

Quoted By:

>>7311139

Anonymous

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Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 13:17:26 No.7311415 Report

Quoted By: >>7311419

>>7308612
>>7308743
apart from the atrocious machine gun and weird turret ring, there is nothing wrong with trump's T-62
details are much more crisp than revell's T-55

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 13:30:22 No.7311419 Report

Quoted By: >>7311447

>>7311415
Yeah. But that turret ring is a real deal-breaker. Correcting that would be a real pain in the as. Why did Trumpeter take this simplified part division in their 1/72 kits? The kits cost the same as other manufacturer 1/72 kits. For the same price or even lover you can buy more detailed kits that come with photoetch from manufacturers like IBG. They make some really good kits for cheap

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 14:03:08 No.7311447 Report

Quoted By: >>7311453

>>7311419
their 1/72 kits are available here for 12 euros, while modelcollect's kits go for 30ish, in addition there are no other T-62 kits in 1/72 (the ancient ESCI one does not count)
zvezda and modelcollect take their sweet-ass time to deliver, IBG is not available here without spending at least the kit's worth on international delivery

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 14:10:15 No.7311453 Report

Quoted By:

>>7311447
What a shame. I get IBG kits for 10 euros here. No modelcollect though. I've been eyeing some of their kits and they look like a pretty good bang for the buck. Can't wait for Zvezda's 1/72 MSTA

Anonymous

Anonymous Mon 31 Dec 2018 14:42:23 No.7311475 Report

Quoted By:

NEW THREAD
>>7311473

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