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I just played through it again for the first time since launch, and my opinions have shifted slightly.
It's not as bad as I first thought, but it's still a bad game. Sonia and your rivals stop the flow of the game way too often, usually is such a systematic way that it breaks the emersion (Enter town/route, plot/battle - Exit town/route, plot/battle). Also, out of your 3 rivals, Hop has the most screen time, and yet I feel like they could have dropped him and given the other two more time to be fleshed out, and the game would have been all the better for it.
Theres also the fact that I've been actively avoiding battles, and I'm still 10+ levels higher than everything else.
That said, I'm giving the DLC a try, and it is a lot of fun, like, if the full game felt more like this, I'd have been okay with it. It's a bit weird that every pokemon has the same level, but thats a minor gripe.