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To start, I think the main game, barring the final trio of nigger bosses and Zedra from Deshret, is...serviceable. It's got amateurism, schizophrenic plot threads, and a lot of the usual pitfalls we see in bad games, but ultimately it's fine and has a lot of 2000s era charm that's clearly from a place of genuine love for older JRPGs. The end of the maingame, and Deshret, also has much better presentation than the beginning, which I think does pay off really well.
My only major complaint (besides trainer gauntlets) is it pulling the Reborn card of 'your princess is in another castle' and forcing you to do Deshret to see the end of the main plot when that was hardly necessary, but whatever.
The postgame is...complicated. I don't even really think I can discuss my thoughts for it in any way that would fully make sense.
I would first say that I think the Edge of Eternity mod, in spite of the weird zoomerish influence it brings to the table with its questlines that clash terribly with the overall vibe of the game, is worth it if you are going to explore this game's postgame in any capacity. It's more or less an extension of what the base postgame is, with cryptic hints, no directions, high levels of tedium and grinding, sadistic level design.
BUT...in some ways this could be interpreted as a positive. The game at this point turns into a puzzle game, where you're not really playing Pokemon anymore but instead finding new ways to either break the game especially with all the absurd tools you're handed or twist your brain around how incredibly unclear the progression is. I revile the term 'metroidbrainia' but in some ways this postgame reminds me of a poor man's Tunic or Outer Wilds where the game asks you to essentially plug into it's bullshit systems and do things like unironically look up RPG maker map data or remember NPCs from half a game ago who used a bird once.