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Alright, I beat the E4 a second time (used the same team, didn't drop Garchomp). I'll give my final thoughts now and take care of whatever is left once I revisit the game:
I liked it. Definitely the best game so far, even if it was a bit too slow for my taste, but there were a lot of high points. I really liked the exploration, which is something I liked in Emerald too, but I feel this region is better to explore with places like Mt. Coronet and Stark Mountain. Felt like the choices in team members were kinda lacking this time around compared to earlier games though, but maybe that's just because I didn't spend enough time searching for cool Pokemon to use.
Next game, Heartgold.