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It has the most memorable main story for sure and the nonlinearity is appreciated. It will be remembered among the best and/or most important games in a few generations.
It has many flaws too but nostalgia will wash them away with time. You just know nostalgia will hit hard with this gen.
Pokémon started its downfall era in the middle of XY, a downfall which ended with PLA. So in terms of enjoyment I consider this as part of a rebirth era.