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Emerald. Hoenn is a huge region, even without the water, and has a general theme without unlike later regions that are "theme parks"
Secret bases we're great, abilities and nature's are a huge improvement, the bikes and resulting puzzles were amazing and Dive is the best hm since surf. Everything about gen 3 promoted a big region with tons of extra content and areas to explore, while also having less legendary and mythical bloat and HM bloat than gen 4.
Platinum is my second favourite
