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There's too much that I like to really name one thing. But I guess I'll go with what actually grew on me after hating at first. That would be Hop. Yes his roadblocks are fucking annoying but he had genuine growth.
He's a kid excited about pokemon and excited about actually going through the challenge with his best friend and by the end of the story he did feel more like a main character that a series could be based around.
What I didn't like? Fucking Bede. Fuck that Q-tip and his shitty writing and the shitty reason they just randomly dump on you for him being a pompous piece of shit not fit for a Garbodor.