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You can expect a shitty level curve, shitty pokemon distribution, and a shitty story.
You can expect a region that isn't particularly interesting, followed by a second region that also isn't particularly interesting.
This is all followed by what is one of the most epic battles in the series so everybody forgets about all of the shit they just waded through.
Expect tons of great side-content like Battle Frontier and Pokeathalon. Though some side-content, like the Safari Zone, also sucks.
Expect lots of loving extra touches, like GB Sounds and Pokemon following the trainer.
Expect otherwise cool features like gym leader rematches locked behind bullshit real-time dependent mechanics that make them more of a chore than they are worth.
I disagree with fans that say it is the pinnacle of the series, but I understand what they love about it. There is a lot to love here. But god damn is it an uneven package.