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Played a ways into Pearl (deliberately not Platinum) to take another look for myself. I was pleasantly surprised to find how much I enjoyed all of the little forks in the road Sinnoh's earlier routes had, and the heavy HM use actually feels rewarding if you can spread the burden across your whole team. The fog and snow areas in particular are just annoying for the flavor of it. Didn't reach Victory Road so I don't remember how it and Stark Mountain hold up.
And a lot of that route music is great.