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Play Crystal Clear.
It's open-world, so you can start in Kanto or Johto.
Tons of QoL improvements, you can see your 'mons DVs, Happiness and Hidden Power type, and Pokémon can follow you like in HGSS.
Rebattleable Gyms as well, and the game is more difficult.
It's a straight improvement over vanilla Crystal, while maintaining link-compatibility
(no new moves, no nu-mons, no special/physical split, etc) like some romhacks often go overboard with.
