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Johto is my favorite region. Many of the stronger new Pokemon are hidden in out of the way places, giving the region a feeling of exploration. That, combined with the early game Ruins of Alph and the overall old-world feel of the region, Johto feels like a region steeped in history with a lot to uncover and explore. It has my favorite "gamefeel" of any region.
When I play a Johto game, it actually comes off as a region where the journey IS more important than the destination. I'm not constantly asking where the next gym is, I'm not guided by a linear path, I'm just kind of free.
This is only my opinion, your mileage may vary
Also yes, the level scaling is awful, but that's a problem with GSC/HGSS, not with Johto as a region