I haven't finished it yet but so far it's pretty fun. Yes it's buggy but I don't think it's as bad as what I'm seeing here. Either the bugs are very exaggerated or I'm one of the lucky ones. It does lag occasionally and it did crash on me once, which made me regret turning off auto save. But in terms of lag, I don't think it's any worse than the totem pokemon.
The whole open world thing is very fresh for pokemon, it's a level of adventure they haven't been able to capture since the kanto games. The gym leaders are on the better side, though I don't like their designs so far (Iuno is cool but the others aren't all that). The titan pokemon are OK, I'm more interested in the Arvin storyline. Team star is great, I like them a lot. Nemona is an interesting approach for a rival, Clive is more involved than I thought he'd be and actually pretty fun. I like how they introduce the e4 way in advance too so they feel somewhat relevant. My main fear going into this was that it would be a massive downgrade from pla but they've kept the good changes for the most part and I'm happy about that
Again I'm not finished but I do think it's enjoyable, just needs some finishing touches as with pretty much every pokemon game of the last decade