>>55062954From an aesthetic point of view, it's Hoenn. Travelling through Hoenn feels like an adventure, there's a lot of variety in the environments (yes, even with all the water routes) and almost every town feels distinct from the last.
From a gameplay point of view, I think it might be Johto. There's a specific point in GSC between Union Cave and Ecruteak City where you reach Goldenrod and the entire game just opens up. Goldenrod City is a hub city that actually feels like a hub, with tons of daily events, access to the Daycare, and before you get Fly you can access all the important areas of Johto on foot once you clear Sudowoodo. That part of the game is the peak of Pokemon, as far as I'm concerned.