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>Exploration
When you get to one of the many good sidequests, go back to explore the first island with new tools, or exploring the third island at all
>Combat
Around the second island's water trial
>Story
When Hau actually develops a character arc, so after the climax of the legendary storyline
All of these are sporadically sprinkled with garbage (second island exploration, mostly boring non-totem battles, constant cutscenes) so you're probably not going to have any consistent fun.