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now for actual scoring of a winning hand. for computer play all you really need to know is the yaku in the previous image as what follows is auto calc'd on computer and only gives minor points differences anyway. mainly online its only needed to know how to earn the PINFU (a zero value hand) YAKU. just knowing that many yaku = good is enough really and that they stack. Note that a three of a kind green dragon is worth 1 YAKU, but for DORA, if the DORA was 5 PIN, then 4-5-6PIN is worth one bonus YAKU, but 5-5-5PIN (or 5-5-5-5PIN kan) would be worth 3 (or 4) bonus yaku. I wont explain the FU in text as you can just read the image and ignore if you dont understand due to CPU calcing it.
Each total YAKU moves you DOWN on this chart shown (the dealer gets the better one below) so one hand with 13 yaku is worth more than winning 13 hands with 1 so you would ideally like to make complicated hands if you can.
Note the HONBA bit however, each time there is a draw, this is a counter which increases until someone wins and breaks the draw streak. This awards 300 bonus points to their score for each counter, thus if there is 10 draws in a row, the next win gets 3000 extra points to their score for breaking it.
The score shown is the total score won. If you win by RON then that player has to pay the entire thing. If you win by TSUMO the score is payed divided up by the other players (shown in brackets). note that it rounds up as the physical score sticks exist in minumum integers of 100 points. Note the difference in the brackets between the dealer and non dealer chart. If the dealer wins simply each player pays the equal amount shown, but if a non-dealer wins then there are two values. The amount won is not divided by three, but by four - the dealer pays a double share shown as the larger amount in the brackets. So if a non-dealer won a max value hand, they would win 32k, 8k payed by each of the other non-dealers and the dealer paying 16k.
I think this is everyting, except for certain specific rules like not being allowed to target specific players, sacred discard, etc, so if you choose not to PON (or RON) a tile that is discarded and the next player follows up with the same discard, you cant then RON them just because you hate that player and want the points the come from them; essentially becomes a SAFE tile until that player discards again. Hopefully i explained it in an easyish to understand way, but you can see that its not too complicated to learn the rules - its just learning the odds of specific things, actually paying attention to other players discards to divine what hands and tiles they are looking for, etc thats actually hard
