>>1984410Fully remove the rear skewer and check the axle actually fits snugly in the frame without a gap opening up (frame is spaced wider than the hub). If a gap opens up you should add spacers behind the locknuts on the axle, or, bend the frame.
Thoroughly clean the threads of the skewer, thinly grease it, and check the springs are oriented correctly. That should allow it to clamp better. You want the cam of the lever pointing out at 90° when it starts to really tighten, also 'quite a lot' of force to close it, but not near impossible.
Do the same for the screw holding the claw derailer in.
Beyond that it could be other issues. Your wheel could be out of true.
That claw derailer and those shit stamped steel dropouts (hallmarks of low end old shitters, which are extremely annoying to live with, fragile and seriously limit the compatibility you have) are designed for chunky nutted axles, not that dainty quick release skewer, and the face of the nut on that skewer isn't contacting the claw all that much. You could see if a different skewer would work better (they're basically all compatible in roughly the right width). But really then it's about converting back to a shittier wheel, an absurd thing to do.
Your brake also might need a full overhaul which on such a rudimentary old design is grug tier mechanics that you could do yourself.
>Bit annoying because its like they have fixed the bike but didn't test ride it at all to check for issues.This isn't viable for shops. There isn't enough time, issues don't always present immediately or under common circumstances, and some bikes will simply be far too large or small for a mechanic to even ride.
Comprehensively sussing your fucked old bike is like 5 hours of work, and a low shop $50/ hour labour rate, meanwhile your bike is worth practically nothing if it rides well, and for parts or as a project, nothing.
It's not fair to blame shops for 'causing issues' by working on your bike as that is what happens.
