>>1068684WD40 is fine for cleaning and unsticking things, but as other anons have pointed out it's not very good as a lubricant. The best way to restore an old chain, if it's not too rusty or worn to be beyond salvage is to take it off the bike (you need the proper tool, a chain breaker) then soak it in a jar full of kerosene - spraying your chain with WD40 is basically doing the same thing the lazy and much less effective way, since the main hydrocarbon in the WD40 formula is kerosene. Either way, whether you do it well or poorly, after cleaning the crud off the chain with kerosene, you'll need to relubricate with a proper lubricant that's not going to evaporate/wear off quickly.
>>1068716Initial derailer setup in seven steps that even a retard can't fuck up if you actually follow them:
1. disconnect both cables completely and make sure both shifters are set so that they're not pulling any cable into the shifter at all
2. set the rear derailer's high limit so that the chain lines up with the smallest cog on the cassette and doesn't fall off when you manually push/release the RD
3. connect RD cable, tug on the cable to release any slack caught in the housing, adjust cable tension for proper indexing
4. set RD low limit so that the chain doesn't fall off into the spokes
5. With the chain on the largest rear cog, adjust your FD limit screw.
6. connect FD cable, tug cable to release any slack in the housing, adjust cable tension for correct indexing (you may need to manually pull more cable through and retighten the bolt, especially if you're dealing with recent model Shimano FDs, the cable adjust may not take up enough slack).
7. set your FD high limit screw so that you can't throw the chain off the outside of the cranks when shifting.
