>>1554331you need to level your saddle so the midsection is level (bulb may stick up a little, nose may point down a little.) maybe move the rails fore or aft in the post clamp, and especially get it high enough that your knees almost straighten but not lock. keep knees slightly bent at straightest. possibly move your stem height up or down. your weight should be distributed between your feet on pedals, hands on bar, and sit bones pressed into the bulb part of the saddle.
the saddle is a PERCH, not a seat. with your saddle height correct, a lot of weight constantly goes into one pedal then the other. you will not be able to put both feet down when stopped. dismount or lean bike against one leg.
your saddle may not fit, either. the rough formula is to measure your sit bone width and then add a little more for aggressive riding, a lot more for completely upright grandma riding, or something inbetween to get the measurement for saddle at it's widest point. the numbers get lower the more bent over/aggressive your body is.
all the way bent over triathlon style = +0 to 10 mm.
full upright beach cruiser = +80 mm
everything below +40mm is for racing stances. sporty starts at +40mm and recreational is around +60mm or more.
this is of course a rough guide.
put corrugated cardboard on a hard chair and rock back and forth on it. mark dots on the center of the divots pressed in by your sitbones and measure between. (may want to do a few until you get consistent result.) then add your stance mms. compare to widest point on your saddle. saddle specs almost always list width so you can search online if you need a replacement.
