>>1957325>How can I get a dura ace 7800 rear derailleur to work with a 11-32 cassetteI run Ultegra 6500 and 6600 on 12-34 and 12-32 cassettes.
One is a long cage mech (pic rel), but the other isn't.
It's really just about your top jockey getting far away enough from your biggest cog, which is your b-screw length. So flip the b-screw around, or, try a slightly longer b-screw from a different derailer. It depends a little on the location of your dropout stop.
I don't think a roadlink is necessary and if it was, it would be more elegant to simply use a different derailer. The more intensive project would be swapping the cage of the derailer, but really, cage length (total wrap) is not such an issue. Even if your cage rubbed on itself in small-small, that doesn't cause any issues, you just don't use that gear, and if you did, all it does is make noise, not blow up anything.
>The bike also creaks when pressing down on the crank. It can't be the pedals since it creaks when the pedals are out and I press down on the crank. I tool apart off the chain rings and cleaned them and that didn't work. It is on a specialized roubaix pro 2008. Could it just be a creaky OSBB?See if you can replicate the creak by gripping the crank arms hard against the chainstays. Then for sure it is the bb. Also, drop the chain off the inside and rest it on the bb shell. Test the crank smoothness with no chain. If it's not smooth, or has any play, forget 'diagnosing' the problem, replace it anyway, and then see where you stand.
Bottom bracket creaks are also commonly front derailer clamps, seatposts, and stems. Try eliminate those by replicating the creak riding out of the saddle, riding with no hands, or a very loose grip, and, unless its setup frightens you, by cleaning, re-greasing, and re-torquing your front derailer.
As your bike has an early, peak creak era proprietary carbon bottom bracket shell, the chance of it being fundamentally fucked is there. Watch some hambini videos.
