>>1069956>ice axe/other vital equipmentDidn't have one back then, and honestly thought I don't need all that stuff, I wanted it to be something else then usual ascents, that's why I left on the route most of my provision, clothes, proper sleeping bag, pad.
Two weeks later reached the top in a mixed us+germany team, the route was super easy and boring. On the next ascent (uk\israel) returning from the peak the guides lost the way on the plato near the peak( we basically had to turn back when it started to snow, soon it was like 1m visibility) and we were about to descend to the russian side just to save our asses, that was fun, we sat in tight circle and desided to wait for the the breaks in weather, since the wind was hitting people to the ground and they were slipping causing chain effect, the snow was blinding the mask, and we literally couldn't walk. Luckily about an hour ago the break in this dissaster showed a piese of nearby mountain(twinpeak) and we headed towards it, reached the glacier and found the path, the level of freakness was 99% in the group. The mountain is known to be super easy but the weather conditions may turn it into a trap. I think mountaineering is only real when going in couple, or being one by one with the mountain. Pic related(skhara) is the previous onsight route.
Is it free now to climb main route alone? I remember norwegian team was sent down because they didn't have local guide and didn't want to hire one.
