>>2273993"Sharpener" is too broad of a term and yes and no, that "sharpener" will do the trick in a pinch but it removes too much metal for long term use and you'll be wearing out the blades quicker than need be.
Lets look at the terms first:
Reprofiling - is done a coarse grit. This is what you do when you restore the angle when its either become to blunt from a secondary/micro bevel or has gotten big chips or rolls. Basically just putting a raw angle on the blade. It's usually best/easiest to do this with a motorized sharpener.
Sharpening - is done on a fine grit. This is what you do when you refine the edge you get when you reprofile the angle or when you get a tiny chip or roll so only need a small reprofile. This is what most people think you do when you restore the edge but it's usually not.
Honing/Stropping - is done on a or honing steel or leather strop, typically loaded with a green polishing compound. The strop is how you get the knife razor sharp and restore abrasive blunting when there's no chips or rolls, while the honing steel mostly just straightens rolls. Usually only takes a few minutes on the strop to get it back to razor sharp. If you do a secondary or micro bevel (a finer, slightly less acute microscopic edge on your primary edge) it only takes a few passes and the edge will be more resistant to chips and rolls. A secondary bevel also means you don't have to sharpen it to perfection, just get the profile right and remove the burr. The sharpener in the OP uses this principle.
So what you carry is:
Something to reprofile and hone the edge with, ie a coarser and finer grit. Doesn't matter what type of sharpener it is but diamond sharpeners typically cuts better than stones and ceramics, but if it's not high quality it wont last long.
A strop with one side loaded with green compound and the other side raw. This is what you'll generally use unless you do something stupid with the knife.
Basically this:
>>2274364 
